Yelekkin

Double-breasted waistcoat made of velvet, which is brown at the back and figured on the front with floral patterns in black, green and lilac colour. The back is made of one piece (44x52cm), while the sides of the waistcoat under the openings of the arms consist of two pieces of velvet, similar to that of the back. The back has a vertical slit (26cm) in the middle, and this opening is cross-fastened with a lace passing through loops, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (25cm); then the front piece becomes narrower downwards. There are five spherical, plaited, black buttons on either side, which are obliquely sewn on the cloth and correspond to buttonholes, thus allowing the crossing over the chest on either side.  The buttonholes are surrounded with gold braid, which decorates also the seams, the openings around the arms and the neck, also the hemline of the waistcoat. On the upper part of the chest, below the opening, golden braids formed spiral decorative patterns, which are poorly preserved. On the right side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of red broadcloth and light brown velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, and its outline is accentuated with twisted threads, which also decorate the seams of the waistcoat. The lining is made of white cotton cloth, while the neckline and the opening of the chest are reinforced with a green ribbon sewn on the inside. This is an old (late 19th/early 20th century) example of a festive waistcoat, very similar to that worn by a villager in the fair of Agios Irakleidios, in a photograph of 1895 (Max and Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter, 1895). Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv.no. 37).

Double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front part consists of two pieces of striped velvet fabric in red and yellow colours. There are six buttons made of silk cord on each side. These correspond to eight buttonholes decorated with black soutache with tassels.

Long vest (yelekkin) made of cotton striped cloth (alatzia), with alternating stripes in the following order: brown, white, green, white, red, white, green, white and brown. The front part consists of two pieces, while the back is made of a single piece joining at the sides, under the armpits, the two front pieces. There is a small standing collar and embroidery around the openings.

Men's double-breasted vest. The front part consists of two pieces of grey silk fabric, while the back is made of a single piece of black velvet. On the right front side, there is a vase-shaped pocket outlined with orange, yellow, green and red threads. The vest is fastened across the chest with six buttons. It is adorned all around with black braid, which also surrounds the buttonholes, while a wide sewn-on decorative trim accentuates the neck opening.

Double-breasted vest with a standing collar. The front consists of four pieces of imported purple silk fabric The vest has a small triangular opening on the chest and fastens diagonally on the left side with a black cord. All the openings are adorned with soutache. At the edge of the front opening, there is a series of loops made of cord, forming a festoon pattern. Each arm opening, is decorated with a black tassel. The right side features an internal pocket with soutache at the opening.

Men’s double-breasted vest (yelekkin) made of black velvet. The front part consists of two pieces that cross over the chest on both sides, with rows of black buttons arranged diagonally. There are eight buttons on one side, while only six are preserved on the other side. It features rich sewn-on decoration made of grey cord, forming spiral and lattice patterns in different combinations, including: a dense composition of spirals creating a wide band around the neck opening, various spiral patterns at the openings that correspond to the buttons, lattice pattern at the base of the buttons, and a simpler design in the form of a series of lozenges around the bottom edge of the vest. Internally, the opening of the neck/chest is reinforced with braid. On the right side of the chest, there is colorful triangular embroidered pattern.

 Inv. No. EE 4323: Man’s yelekkin (waistcoat) from Nicosia, worn as part of the urban attire. It is made of black European-made broadcloth with goldwork embroideries. The back is formed by a single piece of broadcloth, while the front consists of two pieces. The waistcoat has an additional collar and an oval opening at the chest. Further below, it is fastened by means of opposite loops made of yellow string. Applied braids of twisted gold threads (gaitania, bobbins) decorate all openings, the collar, the side seams, and the edges of the waistcoat. On both sides of the front opening, decorative patterns made of twisted gold threads comprise winding stems and flowers, three on each side. A narrow band with a zigzag line extends along the front opening. The waistcoat is lined with cotton stamped cloth, decorated with a winding branch bearing leaves and flowers in vertical rows. All motifs are dark yellow on a white background. Along the inner side of the collar and the opening, the lining in reinforced by a band of purple cloth, 5cm. wide. The broadcloth is worn in certain places.

The waistcoats of the male formal attire, made of broadcloth or velvet, as well as the waistcoats of the female attire (sarkes), were sewn and decorated with gold wires or silk threads by tailors who worked mainly in Nicosia. A Cypriot popular song of the 19th century mentions: “On the beautiful broadcloth gold braids are attached” (see Papadopoullos 1975, 238B.35 verse 3). The waistcoat presented here falls under the specific dress category with these features. Dimensions: 43x37cm.

It belonged to the collection of Angeliki Pieridou and was donated by George and Marina Pieridou, in 1981.

Inv. No. EE 4324: Man’s waistcoat (yelekkin) made of striped cloth (alatzia) in blue, yellow and light brown (siettarin) colours. The back of this sleeveless overgarment consists of a single piece of cloth that is stitched at the sides, under the armpits, to the two front pieces, leaving two small openings at the lower part. The waistcoat has a vertical opening at the front, along the chest, and a small collar, all bordered with a blue twisted string that also forms loops for the fastening buttons, again in blue colour. The string also extends along part of the horizontal lower edge of the yelekkin. A similar string decorates the opening of a pocket, placed at the middle of the opening along the chest. The edges of the arm openings are stitched with blue thread. Both sides of the vertical opening of the waistcoat, as well as the collar, are decorated near their edge with a sewn-on weft band. The latter consists of red, yellow and blue threads and is bordered by a zig zag line made of blue thread. A similar line also borders the decorated pocket opening. The waistcoat is lined with white cotton cloth, while the pocket has a striped cloth (alatzia) lining, featuring blue, red and white colours. Dimensions: 20x20 cm. It belonged to the collection of Angeliki Pieridou and was donated to the Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pieridou , in 1981.

Inv. No. EE 4322: Man’s waistcoat (yelekkin), probably from Karavas or Lapithos, made of cotton striped cloth (alatzia) in bright colours (red, yellow, white, light green etc.). The back and the sides are made of a single piece of cloth that is stitched at the shoulders and the sides to the two pieces of the front part. The latter extend to angular edges and cross over the chest, forming a U-shaped opening. The yelekkin is fastened by seven diagonally-arranged round buttons made of silk twisted string. A vase-shaped pocket is sewn at the right front side of the waistcoat. It is made of black broadcloth at the upper part and (trimmed) velvet at the lower, and its outline is adorned with strings and braids of twisted threads (gaitania, bobbins). Similar decoration is applied along the edges and the openings of the waistcoat.

Spiral decorative motifs of black twisted threads and strings extend along the openings at the chest and along the centre of the back. The latter opening is cross-fastened by means of a yellow rubber lace (probably a later addition), which passes through holes with sequins and is tied at the lower end of the garment. The right side of the chest features a composite decorative element with lozenges, braids and chequered motifs made of orange and light blue twisted strings. Similar elements are also found on other waistcoats. The yelekkin is lined with white cotton cloth.

In regard to its design and decoration, this example is similar to the waistcoat belonging to the costume of a Cypriot villager (late 19th century), now part of the National Historical Museum collection (Cypriot Costumes 1999, 147). Dimensions: 47x44 cm.

It belonged to the collection of Angeliki Pieridou and was donated to the Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pieridou, in 1981.   

Waistcoat (yelek) of ‘modern’ style. Probably it was part of a three-piece European suit. The whole garment is machine-sewn. The front part is made of dark-coloured striped cashmere fabric lined with beige cloth (astar). It consists of two identical pieces, one on either side, which turn outwards to form a collar (its broadest part 5cm) on both sides of a V-shaped opening. Lower down the opening is closed with six black buttons with corresponding machine-sewn buttonholes. On the chest there are two pockets on each side, one above the other. The upper and lower pockets are 11.5cm long. Inside, the edges are reinforced with additional pieces of cloth. On the shoulders the width on each side is 9.5cm, 25cm at the lower end and 27.5cm at the height of the armpits, where there is the broadest part. The total height of the front part is 58cm. It is reduced to 55cm at the back.

The back is made of two identical, symmetrical pieces (55cm long, 23-25cm wide) of brown cloth sewn along the middle, and also has a beige lining. At the lower part there is a two-piece ribbon of the same brown cloth, forming a belt with a small metallic buckle to adjust the waist (total length 46cm).

The waistcoat was used in the village of Mora, Mesaoria, Nicosia District.