waistcoat

ΜΓ 802

Waistcoat of striped loom-woven silk fabric, dark red with fine yellow stripes, and beige cotton lining (cabot fabric). It is preserved in very good condition.

The front side consists of four pieces: two equal-sized triangles (gores) on both sides of the opening (bottom side: 18 cm, inner long side: 46 cm, outer long side: 48 cm), crossing diagonally to create a V-shaped opening on the breast; and an additional two pieces that complete the facades and extend to a single piece on the back (height: 55 cm on the front and the back [overall:110 cm], width: 43 cm at the bottom end of the back). The seams of the garment are handmade. On the sides there is a 7 cm slit. Decorative rows of herringbone stitch with olive-green thread frame the upright collar (height: 3 cm), and also run along the two outer sides of the front pieces, up to 10-12 cm from the hem. An interrupted row of the same type of stitch also adorns the middle of the collar lengthwise. The collar is garnered with braid, which continues along the front opening, double and with an added row of kombouthkia [small knots of looped cord], at a height of 29 cm on the left side and 38 cm on the right side.

On the right side of the breast there is a rectangular inside pocket (height: 13 cm, width: 10 cm) with a pointed lower end. The pocket is sewn internally with green thread. Its horizontal opening, 8.5 cm long, is framed by black braid and a continuous row of herringbone stitch.

The waistcoat is double-breasted but in its current state it closes only on one side. Four fastening cords survive, one on each of the two opening edges, another one internally at the base of the pocket and a fourth one externally on the left side, at the middle of the rectangular piece of fabric, 16 cm above the hem. The waistcoat fastens only when crossing over from right to left, by tying together two of the cords internally and the remaining two cords externally (the cord on the left edge is tied to the inside cord and the cord on the right edge is tied to the outer cord on the left side).

The long sleeves are sewn vertically to the body and consist of two segments joined widthwise. The upper segment, which is sewn onto the body of the waistcoat, is an elongated rectangular piece, 10 cm wide and 17 cm high both at the front and the back side (overall height: 34 cm). This oblong piece is joined at the bottom to two triangles that form the armpit, sewn together lengthwise (length: 16.5-17 cm). The lower part of the sleeves features a 14 cm long curvilinear opening, and has a lining of imported silk fabric featuring two red bands with leaved flowers woven into the construction of the weave, and more narrow bands with rows of stitches and purple geometric patterns (height of lining: 10.5 cm). The opening of the sleeves is garnered with double braid. A row of kombouthkia has been added along the horizontal edge.

Height: 55 cm.

Width: 43 cm on the shoulders and at the waist (37 cm when folded).

Length of sleeves: 57 cm.

Width of sleeves: 16.5 cm in the upper part, 15.5 cm at the bottom.

Date of entry to the Collection: 15.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Maria Kizouridou.

ΜΓ 306

Waistcoat preserved in very good condition, made of the same type of alatzia as the previous waistcoat and of thick cotton dimity lining.

The back consists of a single fabric panel that extends to the two front pieces (height: 59 cm on the front and at the back [overall 118 cm], width at the waist: 41.5 cm). Two triangular gores have been added at the front opening (bottom side: 16.5 cm, inner long side: 50 cm, outer long side: 48 cm). A low upright collar, 2 cm in height, consists of double alatzia. The small triangular side openings at the lower end of the waistcoat, measure 3 cm in height.

On the right side of the breast, a rectangular pocket (maximum height: 19.5 cm, width: 14 cm) terminates at a pointed bottom end. The pocket is formed with added lining. An oblong piece of the alatzia fabric (length: 7.5 cm) covers the inside of the horizontal pocket opening, to hide the lining.

The long sleeves of the garment consist in the upper part of an oblong rectangular piece of fabric (width: 6.5 cm) which extends to the front and the back. Its bottom sides are sewn to two small triangular segments (gussets), joined lengthwise at the armpits. The remaining part of the sleeves is formed by a single piece of fabric with an inseam. At the lower inner end of the sleeves there is a diagonal slit, 6 cm high. Lining at the bottom edge of the sleeves, 5 cm high, consists of the same alatzia, with the stripes in the same direction. When the waistcoat was worn, the stripes of the alatzia on the sleeves appeared horizontal.

Six ready-made cords terminating at metal tips like shoelaces are affixed at the same height: two of them inside, two on the edges of the opening and two externally, on the inner sides of the triangular segments that cross over. An internal cord is tied to one cord on the edge, and an external cord to the other cord on the edge.

All seams are machine-made.

Height: 59 cm.

Width: 40.5 cm on the shoulders, 41.5 cm at the waist.

Length of sleeves: 48.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19.5 cm at the armpit, 14 cm at the bottom.

Date of entry to the Collection: 13.9.1980

Provenance: Polemi, Pafos – Purchased from Ioannis Theodosiou.

ΜΓ 147

Waistcoat of alatzia with broad burgundy stripes, 0.5 cm wide, alternating with composite bands, 1 cm wide, made of blue, yellow, blue, white, blue, yellow and blue stripes. The waistcoat is lined with beige cotton fabric.

The front part consists of four pieces of alatzia: two triangular gores, one on either side of the garment’s opening (bottom side: 18 cm, inner long side: 48 cm, outer long side: 46 cm), and an additional two pieces that complete the facades and carry on to the upper part of the back, at a height of 27 cm. The lower part of the back consists of thick beige loom-woven cotton fabric (height: 28 cm, width: 40 cm). Further down, on the sides of the waistcoat, there is a 6 cm slit.

A low upright collar, 2 cm tall, has a double seam at the base of the neck and is decorated with consecutive lozenges formed with very dense stitch of white thread, probably machine-made. A similar band with a zig-zag row of machine stitching decorates the outer sides of the front pieces, ending just above the hem (7-8 cm). Simple machine stitching of white thread carries on lower still, as well as around the hem. Black braid sets out at 10.5 cm above the bottom end of the front opening, also extending along the edge of the collar. In the front part of the collar (4 cm on either side of the opening) and along the front opening of the waistcoat, tiny consecutive knots are formed over the braid with added sewn-on cord.

On the right side of the breast, a rectangular inside pocket (height: 17.5 cm, width: 11 cm) is formed with thick cotton lining, dyed blue (indigo). In the upper part of the blue lining, an added, 4 cm tall piece of the alatzia used on the waistcoat, may be discerned through the 6.5 cm long horizontal opening of the pocket. The opening is surrounded by a braid of red and blue threads and a decorative band of machine stitching that includes a zig-zag line within two parallel lines. The rectangular shape of the pocket is delimited all around by white machine stitching. At the centre of the upper side, a three-branched ornament is also made with machine stitching.

The long sleeves are sewn vertically to the body and consist of a single piece of fabric with an inseam. Two gussets have been added at the armpit, joined together lengthwise (seam length: 17 cm). At the lower end of the sleeves, the cuffs are made of a separate piece of fabric, 9 cm tall, lined with alatzia other than that of the waistcoat, with blue, red and white stripes. This lining (height: 7.5-8 cm), exposed by the turned-up cuffs, consists of smaller hand-sewn segments. At the bottom end of each sleeve there is a curved-sided opening (height: 8.5 cm). The edge of both sleeves is trimmed with a braid of red and blue threads, the same as the braid along the opening of the pocket. At one point on the sleeve opening, the threads of the braid form a tassel.

This waistcoat shares several features with waistcoat Number 89: same fabric, same trimmings along the edges (machine stitched bands and added braids) and on the pocket. These similarities suggest that the two garments were most likely a set or, at the very least, the work of the same person.

Height: 57 cm.

Width: 41.5 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist.

Length of sleeves: 49.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17.5 cm in the upper part, 15 cm at the bottom.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1978

Provenance: [Undefined] – Purchase.

Double-breasted zimbouni made of striped alatzia in blue and burgundy. The neck has a low standing collar. The front part consists of four pieces, two of which are triangular. The inner triangular side is fastened with black soutache. The zimbouni is fastened on the inside with woollen cords, crossing the right side over the left. The left fastening cord has a length of 10 cm. and the right of 23 cm. The front opening has a black soutache finish 37 cm in length, reaching to the point where the cords tie. The sleeves are sewn vertically onto the body, and for ease of movement, two right-angled triangles with a 13 cm. length and 8 cm. width have been added at the armpits, and are joined at their longest sides. The opening of the sleeves measures 9 cm. lengthwise and is lined with soutache, which continues along the entire edge of the sleeve, with a decorative loop in the middle. On the inside, the lower part of the sleeves is reinforced with two connected pieces of the same fabric. The inner part has a height of 6 cm. and vertical stripes. The outer piece has a height of 3 cm. with horizontal stripes. The inner reinforcement is visible when the sleeve is folded outward. The back consists of a single piece of fabric. The zimbouni is lined with beige cotton, on which the black thread of the machine-sewn seams is visible.

Dimensions: height 59.5 cm., width 47 cm. Collar: 2 cm. Sleeves: length 47.5 cm., width 16 cm.

A sleeved waistcoat (zimbouni) made of cotton alatzia with burgundy and yellow stripes, similar to the fabric of the vest CMLE 2686/2. The neck features a low standing collar. The front consists of four pieces, while the back is a single piece. The sleeves are sewn vertically to the body. Under the armpit, gussets (two triangular pieces of fabric, joined at their longest sides) have been added for ease of movement. At the lower ends, the two sleeves have an additional piece, a cuff with a height of 14 cm. and an opening of 12 cm. The opening of the sleeves is adorned with soutache with four loops for buttoning. All the buttons are missing. The opening of the sleeves is emphasised with two rows of white seams. On the front, the two pieces that cross over the chest are of triangular shape and fasten with two external black bone buttons on the left side, and with one internal button, of which only the loop is preserved. The two loops on the triangular piece of the right side are 9 and 11 cm. away from the bottom end, respectively, while the distance from the inner loop to the bottom end is 9 cm. The soutache of the back runs also along the front side, the bottom edge, and the collar. Additional emphasis is given by white seams all around the front sides and the collar. On the right side, there is an internal pocket with a handmade seam of black cord. The horizontal opening is decorated all around with soutache and double white seams. In the upper part, at the centre of the opening there is a small loop. The zimbouni is lined with beige cotton with double reinforcement on the left seam, which extends to the joining point with the left sleeve. The seams and the sleeve on the right side are also reinforced.

Dimensions: height 50 cm. width 45 cm. Sleeves: length 59 cm., width 19 cm.

Donated by: N. Triantafyllou. Purchased for 2.50 Cypriot pounds.

The fermeli is made of red felt. the back is of a single piece of material, and the front is made of two pieces fastened vertically by six buttons braided of naturally coloured silk thread. At the centre of the front there is a semi-circular false pocket formed of gold gaitania and twisted gold braid. The fermeli has an upright collar and long sleeves, sewn vertically to the back and hanging free front.

The sleeves and edges of the openings are richly trimmed with gaitania and braids, forming a variety of spiral motifs. the opening at the front is further adorned with an attached gold-woven band in which flowers and zig-zag line are woven. the fastening loops are secured in position by an attached vertical gold band woven with gaitania and braids of twisted multi-coloured silk threads.

The fermeli is lined with white cotton material, and the collar and sleeves have a lining of striped cotton material adorned with printed garlands and bouquets of flowers.

According to the written sources, the frmeli was worn in Cyprus at the end of the 18th century.

Waistcoat (Turk. kavuşturma yelek) made of blue and red broadcloth. The front consists of two pieces of blue broadcloth of the same size (7cm wide on the shoulder, 28cm at the broadest part and 16cm at the lower edge) and can be cross-fastened on either side by means of eight plaited buttons made of black twisted silk thread. There are eight button-holes but only two buttons have been preserved, connected inside with a cord in oblique arrangement. The back is also made of two pieces of red broadcloth; in the middle there is a vertical opening 22cm long, with 9 pairs of holes and one more at the top, for fas­tening with laces. The height of the back pieces from the shoulder to the bottom end is 40cm. The width of each piece is 7cm on the shoulder, 20cm at the broadest part, the top of the vertical slit, and 17.5cm at the lower end. Under the opening for the arms there are two side pieces of red velvet cloth, 8.5cm on the upper part and 4cm at the lower end. They are stitched to the front and back piece and the seam is covered with a braid (gaitania turk. kay­tan/gaytan) bordered by twisted threads, orange, black and purple, in the join with the front piece, and simply with twisted threads on the join with the back piece. On either side of the chest there is a vase-shaped outer pocket made of green velvet. The pockets are decorated with the pattern of a stylized tree with a bird on top, formed with twisted gold wire (turk. tel) sewn to them. The birds’ legs are embroidered with purple thread. The waistcoat is lined with white cotton material. A stripe of red broadcloth is used as reinforcement on either side of the front opening. Around the neck and chest open­ing there is a striped piping (turk. fitil) 2cm wide. The front part bears thick applied decoration, one S-shaped motif ending in a blossom or leaf, filled with scrolls or spirals and alternat­ing wickerwork patterns. The chest is adorned with sophisticated patterns, curving floral motifs, wickerwork patterns, lozenges, scrolls etc. Similar decoration is found all around the opening. The back is also richly adorned: on either side of the opening (vertical slit) there is an abstract flower motif with two lozenges, one smaller on the upper part with curving branches on either side ending in leaves or blossoms. The lower lozenge is filled with wickerwork in orange and green, the smaller in orange. The motif continues with a chain motif. On top of the opening there is a central lozenge and chain motif with two con­fronted lions, one on either side. The motifs are made of twisted threads and metal (gold) wire. The lions are filled with embroidery. Their bodies are made of two compartments separated by a twisted metal wire sewn to them. The eye of one lion is preserved and is made of a twisted gold wire forming a spiral. The lions’ tails end in a leaf-shaped pattern filled with embroidery. Similar decorative patterns, especially the motif of the confronted lions on either side of a schematized tree or plant, also appear on waistcoats which form part of tradi­tional costumes of the Greek Cypriots.The confronted lions are common in Greek folk art and have a very long tradition in art in general.

Double-breasted waistcoat (Turk: kavuşturma yelek) made of broadcloth. It belongs togeth­er with the breeches No. 087 and was worn above a chemise. The front part is made of two pieces of blue broadcloth (çuha/çufa) of the same size, and can be cross-fastened on either side by means of plaited silk thread buttons. On the shoulders, where each front part is stitched onto the back part, the width is 7.5cm. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (28.5cm); then the piece becomes narrower downwards and is only 18cm at the lower edge. There are six buttons on either side; the buttons are spheri­cal, plaited with yellow cotton thread and covered with black twisted silk thread. The inside of the parts where the buttons and the buttonholes are found, are strengthened with additional pieces of broadcloth. A white cotton strip attached diagonally connects the buttons on the inside. The reinforced parts of broadcloth are covered with black spi­rals of applied embroidery and a wickerwork pattern, which extends on both sides of the opening up to the shoulder. On either side of the front there are two applied patterns: a broad oval leaf filled with black braids (gaitania, Turk: kaytan, gaytan) and twisted threads, ending in a small blossom filled with embroidery in green and orange silk thread. Next to the leaf is a long S-shaped motif with a spiral at the lower end and a blossom filled with embroidery in or­ange and green silk thread. The sides of the waistcoat, under the openings for the arms, consist of two pieces of purple (turned into brown with time) velvet (Turk: kadife), 4.5cm broad, which widen upwards to a width of 9cm. On the velvet pieces there are lozenge-shaped wickerwork patterns in green and orange, as well as blossoms filled with embroidery in green, orange and blue. On each side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of originally purple velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, i.e. it is applied half on the velvet and half on the broadcloth piece. Each pocket is deco­rated with the same abstract vegetal pattern formed with thread twisted with thin metal wire (Turk: tel) sewn to the pocket. Purple and orange thread and black braids are sewn all round the pockets. Similar decoration is applied on all the edges of the waistcoat. The back is made of two pieces of broadcloth, 43cm long and 18.5cm wide. In the middle there is a vertical slit 28.5cm long, with eight metallic rivets (Turk: perçin) on either side and one at the top for a lace to go through and cross-fasten the opening, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. From the neck to the top of the slit the joint of the two parts is decorated with a narrow piping (Turk: fitil) on each side (total width about 2cm). The back is decorated with lozenge patterns, curving floral motifs and two confronted birds on the uppermost part. The outline of the birds is made of twisted threads, purple, orange and black, the head is filled with gold metallic wire and the body and tail are filled with embroidery of orange and blue silk threads. Overall, every part of the waistcoat has multi-coloured braids, silk threads or twist­ed metal wires sewn to it, forming spiralling floral motifs, wickerwork pattern, lozenges, almond-shaped patterns, scrolls and spirals. This rich adornment calls to mind the motifs of Islamic inspiration incised on bronze utensils of the 18th and 19th centuries. The waistcoat is lined with off-white cotton material. All applied decoration is sewn on thick paper, which can be seen on the inside (the paper is sewn together with the ap­plied decoration). There are also pieces of thicker paper/cardboard. On these papers one can read advertisements in Greek, such as [ΕΡΓΟΣ]ΤΑΣΙΟΝ Η ΚΑΛΗ ΤΥΧΗ / ΕΥΑΓΓΕΛΗ ΚΑΠΝΟΣ ΜΥΡΩΔΑΤΟΣ ΑΡΙΣΤΗΣ ΠΟΙΟΤΗΤΟΣ (Good Luck Factory Evangeli aromatic to­bacco of the best quality) Fabrique de T[abac].On another piece of paper inside, one can read: Manufacture of Tobacco G.O. Dianellos and Son. There is also the picture of a sun and above the sun: MINERVA KΑΠΝΟΣ ΓΕΝΙΤΣ… ΜΥΡΩ[ΔΑΤΟΣ] (tobacco YENICE aromatic) Bazar Street 35 ΛΑΡΝΑΚΙ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (Larnaca Cyprus)