Sayia

ΜΓ 41

Saya of silk or silk-cotton fabric with alternating red and green stripes, flanked by finer stripes in other colours.

The long-sleeved garment features a deep oval neckline that extends into a vertical opening. The upper part of this opening closes with five handmade spherical buttons of an off-white fabric core, lined with maroon thread. The buttons were originally paired with loops, yet only two posterior loops of black cord survive.

The entire back side and both front panels of the saya consist of a single fabric panel with seams along the sides. Two side openings in the lower part of the garment (height: 37 cm) are framed by two narrow gores each. These gores, which match the height of the vertical front opening, widen towards the hem to enhance movement (maximum width: 6-7 cm). The side openings are trimmed along their upper part with white braid. Two elongated trapezoid gores extend additionally on either side of the vertical front opening, again widening towards the hem (maximum width: 18 cm).

The upright collar (height: 2 cm) is lined with the fabric of the saya. Black braid edges the collar, the neckline and, further down, the upper part of the vertical opening. The saya reaches to the mid-calf, featuring a simple hem finish.

The long sleeves comprise a single fabric panel with an inseam, an additional fabric piece at the lower end, measuring 14 cm in height, as well as two triangular gussets joined lengthwise at the armpit. In their lower part, an oblong vertical opening extends from the inseam, measuring 25 cm in height. Black braid adorns the sleeve edge, while zig-zag stitching in the same colour extends further inside. The sleeve lining is made of the saya fabric, yet its stripes are arranged in the opposite direction than those on the sleeve.

The saya is lined with beige cotton fabric. On the right side, a large pocket (height: 32 cm, width: 16 cm) features an opening trimmed with white braid. Higher up on the breast, a small pocket is lined in the upper part with a colourful imported fabric, combining stripes and floral motifs. The lining is discernible on the 6 cm long sickle-shaped pocket opening, which is bordered by fine black braid and zig-zag stitching in the same colour.

Height: 117 cm.

Length of sleeves: 57.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 15 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 10.11.1948

Provenance: Lasa, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 419

Loom-woven saya of striped aladjia.

Fine vertical warp stripes in black, white and yolk-yellow crisscross with thin and sparse horizontal weft stripes in yellow, maroon, green, light blue, blue, and red. In the lower part of the garment, alternating horizontal stripes in the same colours become dense. At the front of the saya, this colourful lower section equals approximately the height of the two side openings (48 cm), while on the back side it begins higher up, reaching a total height of 68 cm.

The front piece of fabric seamlessly continues to the back. Two long and narrow triangular panels, placed under each sleeve, are joined to each other in the upper part, along a height of 30 cm, and then separate across the side opening of the saya, reaching down to the hem (opening length: 47-48.5 cm). Each added piece is hemmed across its sides, internally.

The rectangular breast opening extends vertically down to the hem (opening height: 48 cm). The sleeves, vertically sewn to the body, are fashioned from a single fabric piece with an inseam. The aladjia stripes run horizontally on the sleeves, while the sparse colourful stripes appear vertically. Gussets of four triangular fabric pieces,  paired diagonally on each sleeve (joint length: 16 cm), allow for ease of movement. A 23 cm slit extends along the lower part of the sleeves, which is lined with a multicoloured printed fabric featuring colourful floral motifs against a black ground. The lining is secured with double diagonal machine stitchings in black. These intersect each other in an X-shape, and are visible on the outside of the garment.

The entire neckline is lined with a band of the sleeve lining fabric (width: 6 cm). The garment’s openings, sleeve edges, and bottom hem are trimmed with an appliqué decorative edging, of a ready-made black wavy band [τρέσα]. The same edging also decorates the horizontal opening of a small inside pocket (length: 6 cm), placed near the base of the rectangular breast opening, on the right side. This five-sided pocket features a pointed lower end. It is made of the same loom-woven fabric as the saya, added on the inner side of the garment. On the outer side of the saya, the pocket is delimited by machine stitchings using blue thread.

This garment replicates an old saya. It is unworn, and more recently made using a sewing machine. It forms part of a woman’s ensemble, typical of the Karpasia region, which also includes the following garments: chemise ΜΓ 420, pantaloons (long drawers) ΜΓ 421, scarf ΜΓ 422 and kouroukla (headdress) ΜΓ 423. These were made on the loom in 1984 by Martha Hadjiloizi, originating from Yialousa, and are replicas of old garments from Karpasia.

Height: 117 cm.

Width: 51 cm.

Sleeve width: 20 cm.

Sleeve length: 53.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 7.2.1985

Provenance: Yialousa – Purchase. 

Female, festive sayia from Karpasia, made of thick cotton cloth. The garment is adorned with white embroidery and threaded beads. It was worn over a chemise.

The back and front parts consist of a single fabric panel. At the front, a vertical slit extends all the way down. A deep opening is also formed at the bust, leaving a large part of the chest uncovered. Just below the chest, the sayia closes with  loops and buttons. 

The long and narrow sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, have two additional triangular pieces joined diagonally below each armpit to facilitate movement. The back part below the neck is  lined with white cotton fabric; the same applies for the part surrounding the chest opening, which is embellished with white embroidery in delicate scrolls or zigzag patterns, enriched with threaded red and green petroues (beads). The same embroidery covers the seams of the sleeves at the shoulders and, in a thinner band, the shistres (side openings) of the sayia. Threaded beads decorate also the openings of the sleeves.

Inv. No. EE 4326: Female, festive sayia from Karpasia, made of thick cotton thread worked on the doulappin (spinning wheel). The garment is adorned with whitework embroidery and threaded beads. It was worn over a chemise.

The back and front parts consist of a single straight fabric panel, seamless at the shoulders. At the front, a vertical slit extends all the way down. A deep opening is also formed at the bust, leaving a large part of the chest uncovered. Just below the chest, the sayia closes with six knitted loops, which corresponded to now missing buttons. A little lower an additional oblique piece of fabric is sewn on each side, widening downwards. Adding these gores served the cross-over fastening of the garment at the front. Two gores have also been added to the sides, where slit openings 34 cm. high allow ease of movement. A small patch of thin cotton cloth has been added at the end of one of these openings.

The long and narrow sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, have two additional triangular pieces joined diagonally below the armpit to facilitate movement. The two sleeves have a bottom opening measuring 22 and 23 cm., respectively, while in their entire length they are lined with white cotton fabric. The back part below the neck is also lined with white cotton fabric; the same applies for the part surrounding the chest opening, which is embellished with whitework embroidery in delicate scrolls or zigzag patterns, enriched with threaded red and green petroues (beads). The same embroidery covers the seams of the sleeves at the shoulders and, in a thinner band, the shistres of the sayia, namely the side openings. Threaded beads are also employed at the opening of the sleeves. Particularly interesting is the embroidery at the back of the hem: three narrow embroidered bands with threaded beads are defined by lourouthkia (thin stripes) of siettarin-coloured (light brown) thread. Two more brown stripes, 0.05 m. wide, border the decoration of the fringe.

In her description of Karpasia embroideries, Angeliki Pieridou also mentions dress decoration: “The same embroideries with beads also adorned women’s clothes, white sayies. They were woven using the thick cotton thread worked on the doulappi, and the embroidery, which was usually arched, was limited to the edges, which were easy to embroider on the loom. The embroidery on the chest, the sleeves and the side openings was needlework with threaded beads for [further] decoration" (Pieridou 1980, 28).

See a similar sayia in: Ohnefalsch-Richter 1994, table 65: 2; Papademetriou 2000, 110 cat. 1.

Length of the sayia: 113cm. Length of sleeves: 58 cm.

It belonged to Angeliki Pieridou and was donated to the Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pieridou in 1981.

Inv. No. EE 1622: Sayia made of alatzia with white cotton background and stripes in blue, light blue and light brown colours in the warp. Brown stripes also run through the weft at intervals, thus creating plaid. At the back of the hem there are denser plaids with brown and blue horizontal stripes. The sayia has a small upright collar, a deep narrow opening at the chest and a vertical slit all the way down. At the base of the chest opening, it closes with two knitted buttons, one red/reddish-brown and the other yellow/honey-coloured.

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric panel, which extends to the front. Two gores (loxes) have been added from the base of the chest opening to the hem, one on each side, made of the same fabric. Similar gores on both sides of the garment’s lower part bear the side openings, each 0.24 m long. The sleeves, long and vertical, are fixed to the shoulders with their stripes arranged in a horizontal position. They end in an opening 0.16 m. long, lined internally with a piece of the same alatzia. The usual square piece of fabric has been added under the armpits to facilitate movement.

In term of colours, the rich decoration of the sayia agrees with the woven fabric. The finish of the collar and of the chest opening, extending to the upper part of the vertical opening, consists of a cord braided with honey-coloured and reddish-brown threads. A similar cord adorns the opening of a small pocket on the right side of the chest, the inside of which is lined with purple silk. At the side openings and the sleeves, the cord also includes green thread. Parallel to the cord, a zigzag line is formed of black thread. This simple design is the only decorative element at the lower part of the vertical slit and at the hem.

More elaborate decoration encloses the opening of the chest, which is trimmed with sewn-on green and rose cord forming a wavy line. A zigzag line of reddish-brown and metal threads runs internally along the green cord. All around the opening, lattice-filled triangles embroidered with reddish-brown silk alternate with black triangles, of which only traces are preserved. Small lozenges around the collar, made of black thread, are also worn. A zigzag line, with lozenges on every other of its points, borders the seam of the sleeves. The line consists of twisted metallic and black threads. Black thread, alternating at intervals with reddish-brown one, is also employed for the fly stitch of the seam.

The sayia has no lining. Only the part under the appliqué decoration, all around the chest opening, is lined with the same alatzia.

Embroideries similar in patterns and colours, characterise many surviving sayies from Karpasia (see for example Papademetriou 1991, 100-101 fig. 64, 65, 114-116; The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 170-173, 176-177). Donated by Fokion Tanos in 1948.

Length of the sayia: 116 cm. Length of sleeves: 50 cm.

Sayia (long garment open in front) made of thick striped cotton fabric (alatzia, turk. alaca) in brown, bright red and yellow colour. The back and front are made of a single piece, with no stitching at the shoulders. As usual with sayia, there is a vertical opening at the front for the full length of the garment, and a semi-circular opening on the chest which leaves part of the breast exposed. There is an upright collar at the back of the neck. A separate oblique panel starts at the base of the semi-circular opening and broadens towards the bottom. This added loxa, as it is called, is used to cross-fasten the sayia at the front. The opening is fastened beneath the breast by a red ribbon. Slits at either side give the wearer of the sayia some freedom of movement. There is an inner pocket on the right side, below the waist. The long narrow sleeves are open at the bottom and lined for a short distance with silk material, in which yellow coloured leaves are woven against a stripped brown background. This lining is visible when the sleeves are turned back.  The sayia itself is lined with cotton fabric made on the loom. The openings of the sayia are trimmed with gold gaitania (braids) and seiritia (cords, ribbons turk. şirit/şerit).

Sayia (long garment open in front) made of white woven cotton fabric. It was worn over a chemise and pantaloons. The back and front are made of a single piece, with no stitching at the shoulders. As usual with a sayia, there is a vertical opening at the front for the full length of the garment, and a semi-circular opening, which leaves part of the breast exposed. There is an upright collar at the back of the neck. A separate oblique panel starts at the base of the semi-circular opening and broadens out towards the bottom. This added triangular piece of fabric (loxa), is used to cross-fasten the sayia at the front. The opening is fastened beneath the breast by knitted buttons. Slits at either side give the wearer of the sayia some freedom of movement. The long narrow sleeves are open at the bottom.  The sayia is decorated with embroideries. The opening at the front, the join of the two sleeves, and the back, are all adorned with a variety of patterns spirals, checks, as well as threaded red and green tiny glass beads (petrou(d)es). The edges of the sleeves are also decorated with petrou(d)es. The sayia is a representative example of the type of dress worn in Karpasia, which is often made of white cotton material decorated with glass beads (petrou(d)es).