Sarka

Inv. no. 215: Women’s sarka (waist jacket) made of black felt, with a low upright collar and long sleeves sewn vertically onto the body. The back consists of a single piece. At the front, two separate pieces fasten low, at the middle of the waist, forming a deep V-shaped opening. An additional gusset under each armpit provides ease of movement. The edges of the garment are trimmed with sewn-on gold bands, while a paisley motif decorates the bottom corners of the two front pieces, at the middle of the waist. The seam of the sleeves is accentuated with gold braid. The sarka is lined with blue fabric. This type of jacket is typical of Cyprus and was part of women’s formal costume in urban centres during the 19th century. It was soon adopted in rural areas, where it survived into the 20th century as festive and bridal costume. The sarka no. 215 is comparable to similar samples, such as one in the collection of Ino Stavridou-Hadjipavlou, in Limassol (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 137, fig. 122).

Dimensions: Height 40 cm. Width: 40 cm. Sleeve length: 44.5 cm, width: 15 cm and 13 cm at the sleeve edge. Height of collar: 4.5 cm.

ΜΓ 39

A woman’s sarka of blue felt, decorated with goldwork.

It consists of two front panels, one on each side of the breast, joined to the single back piece through shoulder and side seams.

The sleeves are cut from a single piece of fabric with an inseam that extends to the sides of the garment, reaching down to the hem. They are set in at right angles and their lower end comprises an additional piece of felt, 2 cm tall, featuring an indented edge. This additional section is gathered in folds, held in place by continuous basting stitches. Its upper side is delimited by a band of lace-like goldwork and, further up, by a fine cord of silver(?) thread. The 1 cm-tall goldwork band features continuous inverted arches below a straight braiding. Similar embellishments are found on other locally constructed sarkes.

The garment’s upright collar, measuring 4 cm in height, consists of a separate fabric piece sewn onto the round neckline with a handmade seam. All other garment seams are also made by hand. The collar closes at the base of the neck with a hook-and-eye fastener. A second hook-and-eye, further below, closes the vertical opening extending down the front. The collar border, the front opening and the hem of the garment are trimmed with an appliqué goldwork band, matching that on the sleeves. A fine cord of twisted silver thread(?) further adorns these areas externally.

Elaborate embroidery graces the collar, sleeve ends, entire hem and both sides of the vertical opening. Floral motifs of silver(?) thread and tir-tir (spiral wire) thread in bright gold colour stand out against the blue felt. The embroidery employs satin stitch over padding of cardboard paper, creating a relief  effect. On the collar, a winding branch with leaves and fruit of silver thread stems from a triangle at the centre of the nape and extends symmetrically toward the front opening. The same design is repeated on both sleeves with an added palmette motif crowning its centre. This motif features upright leaves emerging from an elongated horizontal element, filled with an interlace of tir-tir threads within a simple border. Tiny gold-coloured sequins are sewn-on sparsely, using tir-tir thread that passes through a central hole. More sequins survive on the right sleeve, scattered around and in-between the embroidered design.

A similar, yet larger and more enriched palmette motif is depicted at the centre of the back (height: 18 cm). A triple row of tir-tir interlace fills the elongated horizontal element at its centre. Further down, the palmette’s base is flanked by two spirals of leaved branches (one on each side), ending in a multi-petal rosette. At the centre of the flower, an interlace borders four clusters of four or five tir-tir rows arranged in opposite directions. A circular interlace motif of tir-tir emerges upon the blue felt at the triangular base of the palmette. This was once embellished with scattered sequins, most of which do not survive. Two opposite-facing leaved branches extend from the palmette to the front opening, continuing up to the base of the collar on either side of the garment. Each side of the breast is further adorned with an upright schematized branch, emerging from the decoration down at the hem. Each branch boasts leaves and a big central rosette, the petals of which are filled with continuous tir-tir rows. The rosette’s uncovered centre is defined by a tir-tir interlace and adorned with a sequin in the middle. The largest branch leaves of the embroidered decoration are filled with parallel rows or interlaces of tir-tir. Small five-leaved palmettes fill the space below the upright branches, while three-leaved motifs adorn the outer bottom corners of the front opening.

The sarka features a light blue/indigo lining sewn with blue or beige thread. Thick fabric reinforces internally all embroidered areas, including the collar. Although subtle, the reinforcement becomes discernible where the blue cotton lining has worn.

This sarka, namely one of the oldest garments in the Collection, bears a characteristic type of decoration that is rarely met in Cyprus. The neoclassical motifs and embroidery techniques employed evoke the goldwork adornment on luxurious overcoats, which were once part of dress ensembles associated with Hellenic urban centres. The sarka is comparable to overcoats dating back to Queen Amalia’s era, from the mid-19th c. onwards. Given that similar elements –  such as the ready-made lace-like goldwork bands, as well as the light blue/indigo lining – appear on other sarkes within the Collection and in other Cypriot museums, it is considered possible that the sarka was crafted in Cyprus.

Height: 41 cm (including the goldwork band at the bottom).

Width: 50 cm (underarms) 46 cm (at the waist), 36 cm (on the shoulders).

Sleeve length: 47 cm.

Sleeve width: 16 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 10.11.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 70

Sarka of black felt, adorned with goldwork.

Its front consists of two trapezoid panels, one on each side of the breast (height: 38.5 cm, width: 13 cm in the upper part, 23.5 cm in the lower part), with rounded outer corners at their lower end. An elongated triangular opening is formed centrally from the neckline to the waist. The back of the sarka consists of a single rectangular fabric section (height: 42.5 cm, width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 31 cm at the waist). Hand-sewn black thread seams join the front and back panels on the shoulders and the sides.

The upright collar is made of a separate fabric piece, measuring 4.5 cm in height. It is internally reinforced with different types of fabric in three consecutive layers: beige cotton (beneath), black wool (in-between) and worn fuchsia silk (above). Other than the collar, the sarka is unlined.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two triangular gussets are added to each armpit, forming a rectangle (length: 15 cm, width: 13.5 cm).  The seam joining the paired gussets is covered by a braid of yellow thread, overlaid with gold-coloured metal thread on the upper side. This braid extends downward across the joint between the back and front pieces, and upward along the sleeve inseam.

A similar double braid trim adorns the hem of the sarka, the collar border, the lower end of the sleeves and the front opening. Along the inner side of the braid, a ready-made appliqué decorative band of braided gold threads (textile threads with a gold-coloured metal or other coating) showcases a double row mesh and projecting loops. This band, which is sewn onto the fabric using yellow thread, adorns the collar border internally, and also extends along its lower side externally.

Both lower front corners of the sarka feature a paisley-shaped decorative motif of intricate curved designs, hand-crafted using couched cords of currently worn gold threads. The latter are secured intermittently with yellow stitches that are visible on the inner side of the sarka. Sparse basting with yellow thread outlines the paisley-shaped motif on the right side of the garment. This likely served as a guide for filling in the motif.

Height: 42.5 cm.

Width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 31 cm at the waist.

Sleeve length: 48.5 cm.

Sleeve width: 15.5 cm in the upper part, 13.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 20.4.1953

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 69

Sarka of blue felt, decorated with goldwork.

The front consists of two fabric panels, one on each side of the breast, securing with a hook-and-eye closure at their lower end. The single-piece back is joined to these panels via shoulder and side seams. A separate upright collar, 5 cm tall, reveals an inner reinforcement beneath the worn beige lining. The sarka’s lining is made of imported fabric with woven leaves and acorns.

On the inner left side, an oblong piece of the sarka fabric extends above the lining. This addition forms a concealed pocket with a vertical opening close to the breast opening, to accommodate the right hand. The pocket opening is hemmed and trimmed with a twisted gold thread cord, featuring an s-shaped projection in the upper part.

The sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, consist of a single piece of fabric with an inseam. Two triangular gussets are joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 7 cm).

The collar border, breast opening, entire hem, sleeve edges and inseams, and side seams are adorned with double braids of silk thread in gold, with an upper side coating of gold-coloured metal thread.

Couched cords of gold thread are used for the remaining decoration. A branch with schematized opposite-facing broad leaves or fruit, each ending in a curvilinear projection, extends along the entire collar surface. This motif is perhaps depicting a vine.

A broad band showcasing schematized floral designs (curvilinear motifs and spirals) adorns the breast opening, hem, and sleeve edges. An outline of basting stitches extends along its inner side. The embroidered design becomes simpler around the neckline, ending at the back of the neck in a continuous zig-zag line with circles in-between.

A large paisley-shaped motif springs from the lower outer corner of both front panels. Its widest part features two large opposite-facing spirals, while the rest of its surface is composed of smaller spirals and curvilinear motifs. The composite outline of the paisley comprises rows of cords internally and dense continuous loops externally.

On both sides of the vertical side seams, a corner ornament extending from the decorative hem band upward resembles a schematized cypress tree with spirals at its base. A simpler vertical motif of loops and circles, crowned by a curved cord, projects from the decorative band at the centre of the back.

Height: 35.5-36 cm.

Waist width: 38 cm.

Sleeve length: 46 cm.

Sleeve width: 16 cm in the upper part, 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 23.5.1952

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 18

Sarka of black felt, adorned with goldwork.

The front comprises two fabric panels, one on each side of the breast (width: 13 cm in the upper part and 19 cm at the waist). These are joined to the single back panel (height: 39.5 cm, width: 37.5 cm in the upper part and 32 cm at the waist) via shoulder and side seams. The collar is made of a separate piece of fabric, 3.5 cm tall. The sarka fastens with a hook-and eye closure at the bottom, creating an elongated V-shaped opening.

The sleeves, joined vertically to the body, consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two triangular gussets, joined lengthwise, have been added at each armpit (joint length: 19 cm).

The faded blue cotton lining is overlaid with added sections of red fabric, creating a triangle across both sides of the front opening (width: 10 cm at the waist). A band of the same fabric also lines the collar. All seams are handmade. 

A double braid of yellow silk thread with an upper side coating of gold-coloured metal thread borders the collar, extends to the breast opening and the hem, and also trims the sleeve edges. The side seams, continuing along the sleeves, are adorned with a single braid. At the base of the collar, a single braid delimits the neckline.

The garment’s edges are further trimmed with a broad, ready-made appliqué band of goldwork. This band features a mesh pattern at its base and continuous arches in the upper part, each crowned with three small loops. Yellow thread secures the band at intervals. A finer, ready-made band of lace-like goldwork edges the breast opening and the hem of the garment, and also adorns the collar base.

A schematised paisley-shaped floral motif is featured in the two lower outer corners of the front panels. This motif extends upward to form a fine branch with a two-pronged spiral edge. The cord used for the decoration is stitched at dense intervals with gold-brown thread.

Height: 36.5 cm.

Width: 36.5 cm at the waist, 37 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 42-43 cm (the left sleeve is bigger). 

Sleeve width: 14.5 in the upper part and 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 17

A woman’s sarka of blue wool woven fabric with appliqué needlework.

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric piece that extends to the two front panels. Two additional pieces are attached below the deep oval breast opening (height: 30 cm, width: 18 cm): a triangular section on the left side (height: 23 cm, width: 11 cm on the lower side), and a rectangular one on the right (sides’ length: 17.5 and 14 cm). The sarka is double-breasted, fastening at the base of the oval opening with a vertical row of five deep-red braided buttons, paired to loops (height of buttoned section: 10 cm, lower end to hem distance: 14 cm). The rectangular overlapping section closes with a braided button in the upper corner. Slits on the sides of the garment measure 8 cm and 6.5 cm in height.

A beige braid trimming the neckline reaches down to the button that secures the rectangular overlap on the right side, whereas on the left it continues along the oblique side of the additional triangular section, reaching to a height of 10 cm below the oval opening. Needlework edging of yellow silk thread and gold thread flanks the braid. The outer edging, namely a fine band featuring continuous arches, runs along the oval opening and the upper side of the crossed-over closure. The inner edging, namely a broader band with consecutive solid circular leaves or fans(?), extends down to the buttoned section.

The sleeves are vertically sewn to the body, comprising a single fabric piece with an inseam and two gussets, joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 13 and 15 cm).  A 24 cm opening at the lower part of the sleeves is trimmed with an inner braid and an outer needlework edging of continuous arches, similar to that on the breast. Up to approximately the height of the opening (27 cm above the bottom edge), the sleeve ends feature a lining of imported blue cotton with woven yellowish and white floral motifs. Other than this, the garment is lined with off-white loosely-woven cotton.

Height: 54 cm.

Width: 46 cm at the waist, 42 cm under the sleeves, 43.5 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 59 cm.

Sleeve width: 15-16 cm in the upper part, 12 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

A gold-embroidered sarka made of dark blue felt. It is open at the front and has a short collar around the neck. The sleeves are long and straight, with triangular insets of cloth (pomanika) giving width to the underarms. The jacket is decorated with gold-embroidered floral patterns, an elaborate combination of symmetrical spiralling branches with leaves and stylized flower ornaments. On both sides of the front part there is a big, lahouri-shaped stylized composite floral motif with a rosette in its centre. The fine, intricate embroidery, undoubtedly the work of a talented craftsman, decorates the cuffs, the neck collar, the front opening and the hemline of the jacket. The decoration is completed with a thin golden braid, which forms a borderline all around the edges. The lining of the sarka is made of a cotton cloth in light blue colour.   Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 39).

A sarka, woman’s jacket made of felt in dark blue colour. It has a deep opening at the front and, in contrast to most other examples, this sarka is long enough to reach below the waist; at its lower part the opening closes with five small plaited buttons, and below them there is an extension of the right front, which overlaps the left lower part and closes there with one button.  The back and the front part of the sarka are made of a single piece of cloth, while for the cross-over two other small pieces (16x14 cm) have been added on the front. Furthermore, two small loxes (gores) have been set into the sides of the sarka for width, and for the same purpose there is an opening of 8 cm in each side. The sleeves are long and vertically sewn on the body. On the inner side of their lower part there is a long slit, through which one can see the lining; it is made of a fabric with small flower patterns on a dark background, and covers only the lower part of the sleeves, while the rest of the jacket is lined with common beige cotton cloth. The underarms of the sleeves have additional pomanika, triangular insets that give width, thus facilitating the movements. The opening at the front, the seams and the edges of the sleeves have sewn-on gold decoration. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 17).

A sarka, woman’s waist-long jacket with a deep opening at the front, close-fitting bodice and long sleeves. It is made of imported silk fabric with floral patterns, branches with leaves on a lilac background interspersed with golden dots. A thin golden ribbon decorates the front opening all around the neck, and the hemline of the jacket. The lining of the sarka is made of beige cotton fabric. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 19).

The sarka (waistcoat) with a deep opening at the bust and long sleeves, is made of black velvet and shows rich decoration of applied (sewn-on) gold cords.