dress

Inv. no. 294: Urban-style dress made of silk fabric. The entire surface of the dress is embroidered with delicate flower branches in soft shades of white, green, and pink on a light blue background. The bouquets are surrounded by double curvilinear frames, embroidered with a fine chain-stitch.

The ankle-length dress has long sleeves and a deep opening at the chest. The bodice consists of a separate piece of fabric, as also the sleeves. White fabric with a ribbon lacing, like that of male vests, has been added to the back for an adjustable fit. The lower part of the dress consists of a single piece of fabric with many folds. At the height where pockets are usually found, there are two 17cm openings with a black finish. The edges of the chest opening and the sleeves, as well as the hem are decorated with a wavy blue ribbon trimmed with sewn-on sequins. The chest opening is covered with an off-white tulle embroidered with delicate flowers and decorated with handmade sewn-on daisies and pipilla (needle lace). The dress belonged to the family of Georgios Sivitanides, in Limassol. 19th century.

Dress length: 131 cm.

ΜΓ 385

Formal foustanin of striped silk(?) imported fabric with gold, blue and fine red-white stripes. Because of its weave, the gold colour is not visible internally. Cotton alatzia with broad burgundy stripes, alternating with intricate bands of black-delimited white and green stripes, is used on the breast, the waistband and part of the back. That specific part of the dress is particularly worn from long use, showing altered colours, especially under the armpits. Beige cotton fabric has been added to the lower part of the back.

The dress has a simple neckline and a vertical opening at the front, 44 cm tall, which reaches below the waist at a height of 11-12 cm. Fine ready-made(?) banded lace is sewn onto the right side of the opening. Similar lace was probably originally featured on the left side of the breast too. At the front, either side of the breast consists of two panels of cotton alatzia, hand-sewn with red thread. The lower panel, 5.5 cm in height, as well as the waistband, 3.5-4 cm tall, are made of the same alatzia but preserve their original vibrant colours. The upper panels extend to the back in a single fabric piece, 5.5 cm in height. Its lower part, which is joined to the cotton fabric that forms the lower part of the back up to the waistband (height: 17.5 cm, width: 37.5 cm), also features more vibrant colours.

The stripes of the alatzia are horizontal on the waistband. Either side of the front opening extends to a tongue-shaped end made of an added band of a different fabric (10 cm long on the left and 7 cm long on the right). Each extension features a hook, paired to an eye on the waistband, one internally and the other externally. A blue trimming band, densely stitched with orange thread, runs along the entire length of the opening and the extensions of the waistband.

The skirt is wide, densely gathered in the upper part, where it is joined to the waistband. It comprises four pieces of fabric, 60 cm wide each, with the stripes in horizontal arrangement. The blue selvedge is discernible at the handmade joints. At 30 cm over the hem, 4.5 cm-wide lace with consecutive yellow-gold lozenges, is stitched by hand (basting) with white thread along the upper side, whereas the lower side is unstitched. A reinforcing band of white cotton fabric, 3.5-5 cm wide, is hand-stitched with orange cotton thread.

The sleeves are made of the same silk fabric as the skirt, with the stripes in horizontal arrangement. Sewn vertically to the body, they consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two gussets of striped cotton alatzia, red with fine yellow stripes, have been added to each armpit to repair wear. A 14 cm- tall opening is featured at the lower end of each sleeve. A decorative sewn-in braid runs around the edge of the sleeve. Small loops are created in two places on the braid whereas a small tassel is featured at the middle of the opening’s one side.

The bodice of the dress is lined with various types of fabrics: white-beige cotton fabric with red criss-cross stripes for the body; plain white cotton on the sleeves, up to the opening, and for the lower part alatzia with blue, yellow, green and burgundy stripes (height of lining at the opening: 23 cm).

In the Registry of the Museum the dress has been entered as a wedding dress. The poorly preserved upper part of the dress suggests that, albeit originally formal, the garment had been overused.

Height: 125 cm (bodice: 33 cm, skirt: 92 cm).

Width: 36 cm at the waist.

Length of sleeves: 51.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 13 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 8.7.1983

Provenance: Theletra, Pafos – Purchased from Despoinou Nikola.

ΜΓ 813

Youthfull (adolescent) short-sleeved, European type dress, remade from an older, refashioned lilac woven skirt with colourful stripes. These skirts made of sattakrouta, thick silk fabric, used to be made mostly in Nicosia as part of the traditional festive attire around the early 20th century (see examples in:…)

The dress consists of a skirt and a bodice, joined at the waist by way of machine stitching. The skirt, which widens downwards, comprises four panels with hand-sewn joints lengthwise, at the centre and on the sides of the skirt. White and green stripes form two broad horizontal bands (height: 9.4 cm) one higher and the other lower respectively. Each band comprises three fine stripes and three broader ones. In the middle of the skirt, front and back, two pleats made with simple machine stitching extend from the waist to the first white stripe of the upper band. Further down, the pleats open up free. In the lower part of the skirt, the hem is simple, hand-crafted, and broad (height: 6.5 cm), allowing for the dress to lengthen if required.

The bodice consists of the same fabric as that of the skirt, in combination with white cotton. At the front, fabric from the original skirt is employed, with the green and white stripes in vertical arrangement. The lilac fabric forms curved projections on either side, created with crude scissor cuts. A plastic button, shaped like a rosette, with a small green flower at the centre, is sewn to the top of the curved projections. The projections emerge on a white cotton fabric that covers the upper part of the breast up to the shoulders. The different parts of the front side are sewn together with machine stitching. Vertical tucks extend in pairs on either side of the central axis on the bust, along the entire length of the lilac fabric. Their inner sides are machine-stitched and their outer sides free. A collar with pointed tips is formed on the V-shaped neckline. Internally, the collar is reinforced with a fine band of purple fabric (two 1.5 cm-wide pieces, each flanking the centre) as well as with another two pieces of purple silk fabric at the triangular ends. The elements mentioned above are hand-sewn.

Two pieces of lilac fabric have been used for the lower part of the back, joined together by way of a handmade seam lengthwise at the centre, and to the front panels with machine stitching under the armpits. The upper part of the back up to the neckline consists of two symmetrical segments of beige cotton fabric, joined to the rest of the fabric pieces with machine stitching (along the shoulders, on the sleeves and in the lower part). A vertical opening, hemmed by hand, is formed at the centre, between the two pieces of cotton fabric, on the extension of the central seam. The opening fastens at its top with a plastic button, of the same type as those used on the front side of the dress.

The sleeves, slightly puffed with pleats, are sewn to the body in a curved line with the use of a sewing machine, and end in a handmade hem. The left sleeve consists of a single fabric piece with an inseam in the lower part. The right sleeve consists of two pieces, one of them smaller and rectangular, on the inside of the lower part. The two sleeves differ in terms of the yellow stripes at their ends, whereas on the right sleeve the stripes are not entirely aligned with the joints of the two fabric pieces.

On the left side, the dress features a 10 cm-tall vertical opening which reaches slightly above and slightly below the waistline. No fastening elements survive.

Height: 94 cm.

Length of skirt: 56.5 cm.

Width: 38.5 cm maximum on the bodice, 37.5 cm at the waist, 78 cm in the lower part of the skirt.

Length of sleeves: 20-20.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 14.5 cm (in the lower end).

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 812

Long, long-sleeved dress of pink silk fabric with separate elements of similar orange fabric and details of ready-made off-white lace.

The formal garment comprises a bodice and a skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. On the front side, the upper part is made of two side pieces of pink fabric: the one on the right extends to the back whereas the second one on the left reaches under the armpit, where it is joined to another narrow piece of the same fabric. The rest of the back is made of a single piece of pink fabric. The centre of the breast is covered with a broad vertical band of orange silk fabric, sewn to the pink fabric on the right side of the breast. The other side of the band, on the left, is unsewn, forming an opening that closes with four springs. Two double, opposite-facing vertical tucks, 3-4 cm wide, are formed on either side of the central panel, on the edges of the two pink pieces. The tucks are sewn with machine stitching lengthwise, almost halfway, whereas both their edges are free. The orange band of fabric is adorned at the height of the breast with a horizontal band of lace, 3.5 cm in height, secured top and bottom with machine stitching. A green narrow horizontal band, hand-sewn with basting using a thread of similar colour, extends higher up. Internally, the part of the orange band that features sewn-on decoration is reinforced with a rectangular piece of thick beige cotton lining (loom-woven fabric). The horizontal side of the neckline, at the top of the orange band, is also decorated with lace, similar to that used on the breast.

The shoulders, front and back, are covered with a wide marine collar of orange silk fabric. Lace, 2 cm in height, similar to the one used elsewhere on the garment, trims the entire collar.

The long sleeves form a slightly curved joint to the body. They consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. An added band of fabric, 10 cm in height, trims the entire lower part of the left sleeve. Lace, 3.3 cm in height, similar to the lace that adorns the body, is sewn to the edge of each sleeve with machine stitching.

At the waist of the dress, an added wide waistband of orange fabric fastens to the left of the centre with a hook and a spring, with the catch missing. An added band of the same fabric, sewn so as to form a bow, covers the fastening of the waistband. The opening of the dress extends from the bodice to the skirt (total opening height from the neckline: 38.5 cm, 25 cm of which up to the top edge of the waistband).

The skirt is pleated in the upper part and widens downwards. It consists of three panels, ca. 58 cm wide each, joined with machine stitching. The hemline features the same type of stitching, and is adorned all around with lace sewn in the upper part by hand. The lace, which slightly projects from the fabric at the bottom, is different than that used elsewhere on the dress, in terms of both width (5.5 cm) and design.

The dress features an intricate pattern, incorporating construction and stylistic elements of the first decades of the 20th century. It is almost entirely made with the use of a sewing machine, stands out for the daring combination of vibrant colours (pink, orange and, in places, green) and includes elements of European fashion such as the tripartite design of the body, the marine collar, the bow at the waistband and the lace trimmings. The combined use of silk, shiny fabrics and lace adds to an air of luxury and lends formality to the dress. The dress is in all likelihood dated to the 1910s-1920s.

Height: 110.5 cm (bodice: 33.5 cm up to the waist, height of skirt: 77 cm).

Width: 33 cm on the shoulders, 34.5 cm at the waist, 86 cm at the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 47 cm (including the lace).

Width of sleeves: 20 cm in the upper part and 13 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 810

Long, long-sleeved foustanin of ready-made cotton imported fabric with fine pink stripes alternating with rows of consecutive tiny dots or circles in red against a white background.

In the upper part of the dress, the two front panels, that have seams on the shoulders, reach under the armpits and cover part of the back, with their stripes obliquely placed. A third piece of fabric, with vertical stripes, forms the centre of the back. A 4 cm-tall waistband is made from a separate piece of the same fabric, with horizontal stripes.

At the front, the simple round neckline extends to a vertical opening, 42 cm tall, 14.5 cm of which below the waistband. The opening fastens with four hooks, two at the front and two on the waistband, most of them probably posterior. At the front, next to the neckline as well as below the breast, each piece of fabric is tucked and held in place with stitching for better fitting. The tuck under the breast reaches down to the waistband. At the back, a blue decorative ribbon, secured within the seam, runs along the oblique joints of the central piece to the side panels. At the middle of the central piece, a vertical band of fabric with two small, opposite-facing tucks along its edges, is flanked by blue ribbon of the same type. At the front, above the waistband, vertical bands of bias-cut fabric (height: 23.5 cm, width: 2.5 cm) flank the vertical opening. Each band is also trimmed with 0.5 cm-wide faded blue ribbon. A similar ribbon also accentuates the horizontal seams on the shoulders.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. A bias-cut ruffle, 3.5 cm in height, has been added to a 1.2 cm-tall hem on the edges of the sleeves. On one sleeve, the ruffle is made of a single band of fabric; on the other, of two joined bands. Here too, the joint of the ruffle to the edge of the sleeve is adorned with fine blue ribbon.

The skirt comprises three elongated panels, one of which is 50 cm wide and the other two 60 cm wide. In the upper part, the fabric of the skirt is turned in and gathers, particularly on the side and at the back, where it is reinforced internally with white cotton fabric and a second fabric piece, also white cotton, displaying floral motifs. A ruffle around the hemline, 7 cm in height, is defined in the upper part by a blue ribbon. Slightly higher up, two parallel horizontal pleats outline the skirt.

The entire bodice, with the sleeves, is lined with white cotton fabric. Most of the seams of the foustanin are handmade using white thread and, more rarely, red. The ribbon on the sleeves, the hemline and the breast is also secured with stitching by hand, whereas the joints at the back appear to have been made with machine stitching.

Overall, the dress appears more elaborate because of the varied arrangement of the fabric panels and the resulting combination of oblique, vertical and horizontal stripes.

Height: 118 cm (bodice with waistband: 36 cm, skirt: 82 cm).

Width: 28 cm on the shoulders, 36 cm at the waist, 83 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 48.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 20 cm (on the shoulders) and 12 cm (at the hem).

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 808

Waisted foustanin with long sleeves, made of off-white, loom-woven, cotton-silk(?) taiston fabric.

Along general lines, it repeats the design of previous dresses. The bodice consists of six pieces in all, joined to each other with handmade stitching. The front is made of two panels, one on either side of the breast, that extend under the armpits and form the side pieces at the back. The centre of the back is made of four elongated segments forming a gore from the shoulders to the upper part of the waistband, widening upwards. These segments are bias-cut, with the stripes of each segment following a different direction. A fine, ready-made woven band in purple, sewn with white thread, accents four joints at the back. The two diagonal seams on the outer edges are accentuated with a single piece of ribbon, which also continues along the upper edge of the waistband, in-between the seams. The simple oval neckline, crafted by hand with a hollow hem, extends to the front side into a vertical opening that reaches quite long under the waistband, at a total height of 49 cm. Up on the neck, purple bands, each sewn to either side of the opening, are tied together as fastening elements. Lower, the opening on the breast fastens with three hooks: two near the neckline and one further down, close to the waistband.

Above the waistband, the opening is framed lengthwise by two added strips of the same fabric, one on either side. Fine, woven bands in two different shades of green (one shade on each side), sewn with white thread, delimit the rectangular segments, accenting their outline, and reach to the front of the neckline. The bodice tapers on either side under the breast with a pleat, sewn internally, which also extends to the waistband.

The long sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. A low cuff is created at the edge of each sleeve with a fold, 2.5 cm in height, and a hand-sewn, 1.8-2 cm-tall band, added obliquely on the outside. Along its sides, the added band is accentuated on each sleeve with a fine green woven band, ready-made, the same as that used on the opening of the dress. The band is sewn with white thread. The two sides of the frame it creates are joined together with a vertical joint, more or less on the same straight line as the joint along the sleeve. At the joint of the sleeves to the bodice, the puffed fabric creates two pleats with folds on the bias. The bodice, including the sleeves, is lined by hand with beige cotton.

The 4 cm-tall waistband consists of a separate piece of fabric with horizontal woven stripes, and fastens with two hooks.

The wide skirt of the foustanin is made of three pieces of fabric, one narrow (width: 27 cm) and two wide ones (width: 89 cm), sewn by hand. Dense pleats, held in place by straight stitching in two rows, are formed at the waist. In this part of the dress, the skirt is reinforced internally with two added bands, one of simple beige cotton fabric and the other of white and yellow silk. A ruffle, 6 cm in height, has been added around the hem of the skirt. The ruffle consists of seven bands of bias-cut fabric, of the same type as the dress. A low, hand-sewn hem runs along the edge of the ruffle. A fine, ready-made, green woven band, sewn with white thread, accents the joint of the ruffle to the skirt.

The foustanin is entirely hand-sewn based on traditional designs. The use of the taiston fabric with the relief surfaces and its varied shades, as well as the subtle decoration with the colourful bands make this monochrome garment particularly graceful.

Height: 120.5 cm (bodice: 34.5 cm up to the waist, skirt: 86 cm).

Width: 36 cm on the shoulders, 34 cm at the waist, 100 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 47 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17 cm in the upper part, 12.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 806

Long and long-sleeved foustanin of imported pique fabric with blue stripes alternating with broader bands that feature tiny purple patterns, defined on either side by a red line.

The dress comprises a bodice and a long wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. At the front, the bodice consists of two 30 cm-tall panels, one on either side of the breast, with seams on the shoulders. They extend underneath the armpits, to the back (total width: 27 cm), where they are joined to two bias-cut strips of fabric (25 x 6 cm) flanking the central six-sided gore (width: 30 cm on the shoulders, 8 cm at the waist, above the waistband). The stripes on the bias-cut strips are placed diagonally as opposed to the central gore with the vertical stripes. This creates a pleasant variety which brings out the design. The joints of the different pieces are meticulously sewn by hand. The bodice is lined with various pieces of fine beige cotton fabric, ready-made, probably hand-sewn.

A round neckline with a simple hem features an opening that extends vertically to the centre, up to the waist, at a height of 29 cm. The opening continues underneath the waistband, to the skirt, at a height of 10.5 cm. A ruffle made of an added, bias-cut, slightly gathered band of fabric, 5.5 cm wide, consisting of three pieces on either side, runs along both sides of the breast, at 2.5 cm underneath the shoulders, on either side of the opening. The ruffle is bias-cut and its edge is hemmed. Its two strips converge at the bottom into a V shape.

The opening closes with five hooks: one at the base of the neck, a second at the beginning of the ruffle, another two hooks on the waistband and one slightly up. The opening is hemmed across its sides: the hem is broader up to the waistband, narrowing down from there on.

The long sleeves, joined to the body in a curve, consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Their finish is achieved with an added ruffle of different, bias-cut pieces of fabric (two or three), 2.5-3 cm in height.

The 4.5 cm-tall waistband consists of different pieces of fabric with horizontal stripes.

The skirt is made of three panels, 64 cm wide each. In the upper part of the skirt, underneath the waistband, dense pleats are held in place with a straight basting stitch. At this point, the skirt is slightly folded inside and reinforced with added bands: one is of the same fabric as the dress, and appears to contain a strip from a different fabric, beige with a gold stripe. The skirt has a hem, 1.5-2 cm in height, where its ruffle is secured. The ruffle is 7.5-8.5 cm-tall and consists of 11 bias-cut pieces of fabric, diagonally sewn.

In spite of the use of imported fabric and the addition of ruffles for embellishment, the design of the dress follows traditional standards, therefore preserving a very conservative character, keeping the largest surface of the body covered.

Height of bodice: 30 cm.

Height of waistband: 4.5 cm.

Height of skirt: 67 cm up to the ruffle, 75 cm at the base of the waistband.

Width of skirt at the bottom edge: 104 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19 cm in the upper part, 11 cm in the lower part and 14 cm at the ruffle.

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 680

Long and long-sleeved traditional type dress of print silk-cotton imported fabric with taiston stripes, framed by gold green bands according to a pattern of one band-four stripes-one band. On the main side of the fabric, the gold green bands are covered with a shiny gold colour. On the same side, dispersed embossed vegetal motifs emerge against an off-white background: slender leaved branches with flowers and buds in different shades of purple, yellow and blue. The pollen is rendered in yellow and surrounded by small colourful dots. Its centre is also decorated with a small dot. Of note is the fact that the gold bands run over the printed motifs.

The dress consists of a bodice and a skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. The bodice is formed by a single fabric piece at the front and back, with a seam under the armpits. The entire bodice, including the sleeves, is lined with thick loom-woven cotton.

The simple circular neckline extends to an opening, 25 cm in height, up to the waist. Both the neckline and the opening are hemmed with a purple trimming band, within which runs a handmade decorative fishbone stitch in olive green. The opening fastens at the waist with two hooks and continues under the added waistband at a height of 13 cm (total height of the opening from the neckline to the bottom edge: 49 cm).

The waistband is formed by an added, 5 cm-tall piece of fabric with horizontal stripes. On either side of the opening, two opposite-facing tongues of the same purple trimming band are sewn with black thread (length: 8.5 cm, height: 5 cm). The tongues are framed internally and externally by handmade fishbone stitches, similar to those at the opening of the breast.

The sleeves, sewn vertically to the body, are made of a single fabric piece with an external seam on the upper arm. An added piece of fabric, which tapers from the upper to the lower edge of the sleeve (width: 11 cm in the upper edge, 5 cm in the lower edge) is joined to the left sleeve with a second lengthwise seam, further down, on the outer side of the arm. The broad hem on the sleeves is adorned with light blue scalloped edging along a straight line. The hem and the decorative elements are hand-sewn with black thread.

The wide skirt consists of five panels, four 65-66 cm wide and one 60 cm wide. At the waist, the fabric of the  skirt is folded inwards and gathers in dense pleats, secured with two horizontal seams of thick thread. Ready-made black lace, 4 cm wide, secured in the upper part with handmade stitch, runs at a height of 30 cm above the hem. The free edge of the lace is scalloped and the other one straight, whereas rows of four-petal flowers run in-between them. A small pleat is formed all around the skirt, where the lace is held in place. The hemline is reinforced internally with an added band of a different fabric, also imported (height: 3.5-4 cm), off-white in colour with small red flowers in a row lengthwise. The edge of the skirt is adorned with a purple trimming band, hand-sewn using black thread. Higher up, a finer red ribbon survives in fragments. It was secured with the same black thread used to sew the inner hemline reinforcement.

The dress is used and, in several parts, stained. It is generally a youthful dress, and albeit made of imported fabric, entirely hand-sewn based on established formal standards.

Height: 123 cm (bodice: 33 cm up to the waistband, skirt: 90 cm).

Width: 40 cm, 167 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 44 cm.

Width of sleeves: 18 cm in the upper part, 13 cm in the lower part.

The two front panels on the bodice are 20 cm wide.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

ΜΓ 679

Long, long-sleeved foustanin of cotton alatzia with fine blue stripes against a white ground. Four rows of single green threads run between every pair of stripes.

The dress comprises a bodice and a skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. It mirrors the design of the preceeding dresses. The bodice consists of two panels at the front, one on either side of the breast, joined to the back pieces with seams on the shoulders and under the armpits. At the back, two bias-cut pieces of fabric, 12 cm wide, diagonally placed, frame a six-sided central segment with vertical stripes that flares out towards the shoulders. The joints between the different segments are accentuated with double machine stitching using black thread. A band with a continuous zig-zag line decorates the base of the six-sided segment, above the waistband.

The round neckline is reinforced with a fine trimming band of the same fabric, with the stripes of the woven textile in horizontal arrangement, hand-sewn and, higher up, with black machine stitching. The opening of the neckline reaches vertically down to the breast up to the waistband (opening height: 23 cm) where it fastens with two hooks. On either side of the opening, the fabric is folded over inwards, creating a reinforced band, decorated with a waistband that includes consecutive lozenges of black machine stitching. Underneath each breast and up to the waistband, the fabric gathers in a fine pleat, sewn internally by hand with black thread and decorated externally with two rows of black machine stitching.

The 3 cm-tall waistband consists of a separate piece of fabric with the stripes of the alatzia in horizontal arrangement. The waistband extends to a 10 cm-long overlap to the left of the vertical opening, and fastens on the edge with two hooks. A 14 cm-tall opening is formed underneath the waistband, on the extension of its tip, and continues diagonally. Handmade hem using black thread runs along its edges. A continuous zig-zag line of black machine stitching decorates the entire length of the waistband.

The long sleeves are made of a single fabric piece with a seam on the external side of the arm. The stripes of the alatzia converge towards the seam, creating parallel arches. The edge of the sleeves is trimmed with hem and a decorative band that includes a continuous zig-zag line of black machine stitching.

The entire bodice (with the exception of the waistband) is lined with ready-made beige cotton fabric. The wide skirt of the dress consists of seven panels of varied widths (5x36, 1x35, 1x25 cm) gathering densely at the waist, where it is reinforced internally by two parallel, also densely gathered bands of different loom-woven striped fabrics and lining pieces (height: 4-6 cm). The dense pleats of the skirt are held in place by two parallel rows of horizontal seams made with white thread. The joint of the skirt to the waistband is handmade.

At the lower end of the skirt, an added horizontal band (fasa) of the same bias-cut alatzia fabric, is sewn along its edges with double machine stitching using black thread. Above and below it is framed by three narrow horizontal tucks (one above and two below), secured in their upper part with black machine stitching. The hem of the skirt is turned and reinforced with a band of the same fabric as the lining, 6.5 cm in height, which is secured with double black machine stitching. On the front side of the skirt, the stitching is displayed as decoration.

The varied arrangement of the striped fabric on the dress is used as a decorative element. In tandem with its practicality, machine stitching is also used for decoration.

Height: 114 cm (bodice: 33 cm up to the waistband, skirt: 81 cm).

Width: 36 cm on the shoulders, 32 cm at the waist, 125 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 44 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17 cm in the upper part and 11 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

MΓ 678

Long, long-sleeved foustanin made of thick and heavy silk-cotton (koukkoulariko?) taiston fabric, with clusters of four yellow vertical stripes, alternating with wider, whiter taiston bands against a white background.

The design of the dress is identical to that of foustanin ΜΓ 676 and ΜΓ 677. It consists of a bodice and a wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. The upper front of the foustanin consists of two pieces of fabric. At the back, a central six-sided segment, widening towards the shoulders (height: 33 cm, maximum width: 35.5 cm, minimum width: 6.5 cm), is flanked by another two pieces, obliquely sewn. Front and back are joined with seams on the shoulders and under the armpits. The seams are accentuated with double black machine stitching. The entire upper part, including the sleeves, is lined with white cotton fabric.

The circular neckline extends to a vertical opening that continues below the waist (total length: 39 cm, 13 cm of which under the waistband). Decorative seams of black machine stitching run around the neckline and along the opening: a simple line around the neckline and, on either side of the vertical opening, a band of straight lines flanking a zig-zag line. The decorative band also extends to the waistband. The fabric gathers with a vertically sewn pleat below each breast and up to the waistband for better fitting at the breast. The pleat is crafted by hand with brown thread and is accentuated with double machine stitching using black thread.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with a seam on the upper external side of the arm. The joint with the shoulder forms a slightly curved line. The edges of the sleeves are covered with blue trimming band, internally and externally.

The waistband, which fastens with two hooks, is made of an additional piece of fabric, 3.5 cm-tall, with its stripes in horizontal arrangement. It is lined with stamped fabric, decorated with floral motifs, geometrical patterns and paisleys. A decorative seam made with black machine stitching runs along the upper part of the waistband.

The long wide skirt is made of five panels, four of which are 38 cm wide, and the fifth 34 cm wide. Around the upper edge it gathers with dense pleats, held in place by two consecutive parallel seams. The skirt features a black trimming band finish, which now survives in fragments. Internally, around the hem, a band lining, 5.5 cm-tall, is made of the same fabric as the lining of the waistband. Over the hem, two parallel decorative ribbons, one blue (below) and the other purple (above) are secured by hand with basting using brown thread (a line along the middle of each band).

All seams are handcrafted, whereas the decorative stitching with black thread is machine made.

Even though it appears used, the garment is preserved in very good condition. The traditional design of the dress is identical to that used on other foustania, which are made with various woven textiles.

Height: 129,5 cm (bodice: 36.5 cm up to the waistband, skirt: 93 cm).

Width: 35.5 cm on the shoulders, 36 cm at the waist, 114 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 48 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19 cm in the upper part, 12.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.