belt

Ind. No. 109: Filigree belt. It consists of 66 rectangular elements made entirely with filigree and connected with rings. The belt closes with an ornate clasp, resembling a bow with a rosette in the middle. The filigree work is complemented by applied, decorative minute spheres or hemispheres and tiny lozenges. Two filigree elements hang from the clasp. Some parts of the clasp, and alternating rectangular elements of the belt, are gilded. This creates a two-tone color, while the trifouri (open work filigree) gives the impression of lace.

Identical belts were worn in different areas of Greece, such as in Epirus, where they were made by artisans from Ioannina, and also in Thessaly, accompanying the festive and bridal costume of Karagouna (Kaplani 1997, 117, no. 5134, Hatzimichali 1983, 90-91, fig. 85-86 and 130, fig. 135, Papantoniou 1996, 44 and Folklore Museum of Larissa 1996, 38-39, no. 69-72). Identical, 19th-century specimens from the Balkans (e.g. in Vidin, Bulgaria: Blagoëva 1977, 64, fig. 22) attest to the widespread use of the type, which has been dated to the late period of modern Greek silversmithing (Zora 1981, 30, fig. 60). Similar specimens are exhibited in the House of the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis and in the Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou and Loizou-Hadjigavriel 2003, 67).

This belt was purchased in London and comes from Greece. 19th century.

Dimensions: Belt length: 94 cm and width: 3.8 cm. Clasp length: 9 cm and width: 4 cm.

Ind. no. 28: Black velvet belt lined with black fabric, embroidered with a design similar to that of belt no. 20. The shape of the central flower in the pot differs, as do some of the colours. The design is repeated nine times. Α velvet belt with an identical design and with a silver clasp attached to its ends is depicted by Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter ((1913) 1994, fig. 67), who compares it to an ancient articulated belt of metallic plaques. Therefore, the belts in the Pierides Collection could be dated to the end of the 19th century and it is possible that they are even older.

Dimensions: Width of each compartment: 4.5 x 7.5 cm. Length: 71.5 cm.

These belts were used as part of an urban Cypriot costume. They were owned by Eleni Nikoli Tavernari, the grandmother of Theodora Z. Pieridou.

Ind. no. 20: Belt made of black, silk fabric, embroidered with silk and metallic threads. It is divided into 11 sections, each featuring a pot with leaves, and a flower with petals in a radial arrangement. Above this central flower there are two smaller ones, one in each corner. The dividing line is embroidered with gold thread in satin stitch, as is the flowerpot that sits on this line, as well as the large leaves and the stem. Vertical ribs compose the relief surface of the pot. The central flower and two spirals below are embroidered with stem stitch in light brown/honey, as is the pollen of the small blue flowers. Deep green leaves on the sides of the pot are faintly visible on the black background. The design is simple and symmetrical. The theme of the flowerpot was very popular in Greek folk art. The belt would close with a metallic clasp.

Dimensions: Width of each compartment: 4.5 x 7 cm. Length: 75 cm.

Ind. no. 31: Belt with double-sided embroidery on both narrow sides. The design consists of four columns with stylised, almost geometric flowers in a vertical arrangement. At the end of the outer narrow side, there is a thin band of embroidery in alternating colours, while along its three outer sides the embroidery is defined by a narrow border that reaches a little above its height. The standardisation of the design is in contrast with the polychromy.

Dimensions: Width: 21 cm. Length: 208 cm.

Ind. no. 30: Belt made of two pieces of linen, joined in the middle. The same composition of two facing birds with similar plumage, standing on the base of a tall fountain, is embroidered on both ends. The fountain standing between the birds, constitutes the central axis of the composition. A small, stylised bird is sitting on top of the fountain, accompanied by two other, similar birds, one under each larger bird. This central design is bordered on three sides by a wavy garland featuring flowers with colours alternating per pair, light blue and oil green. These colours also dominate the central composition, along with pink, pomegranate, beige, gold thread and metallic thread. The tight stitch gives the impression of fil tiré. The same design is found with minimal variations and a range of colours in belts from Bursa (Ther 1993, 212, 213).

Dimensions: Width 20-22 cm. Length: 196 cm.

Ind. no. 24: Long and narrow belt of two pieces of woven fabric joined in the middle, with embroidery at both ends. The depicted theme is a stylised tree with branches extending horizontally in two different levels on both sides of the trunk. Vertical, leafy branches extend  downwards in a herringbone pattern. They are repeated in a smaller size at the border that surrounds the tree on three sides. Empty spaces of the composition are filled with four small floral motifs. The ground from which the tree emerges is rendered with absolute stylisation. Soft, natural shades (brown, oil green) are combined with a little pink, light blue, and gold. A tree with a similar but less standardised arrangement of branches is found in a tsevres from Bursa (Ther 1993, 211).

Dimensions: 18-24 x 198 cm.

Ind. no. 23: Long and narrow belt made from two pieces of woven taisto fabric joined in the middle, and decorated with embroidery at both ends. Emerging from a disproportionately small vase is a vine with leaves and grapes, and with a large inclining flower at the top. The composition is surrounded on three sides by a similar vine with leaves and grapes. The pattern is entirely stylised and symmetrical, embroidered with a tight single stitch (misovelonia, half cross stitch, namely of one diagonal arm of a full cross stitch) that gives the impression of fil tiré. The colours of the decoration are vivid, in silk and gold.

Dimensions: 15/20 x 212 cm.

Ind. no. 105: Silver, tripartite filigree poukla (buckle, clasp). It consists of two paisley-shaped pieces, one of which has a central vertical element attached. All three pieces consist of hammered sheet silver with applied decoration of filigree work and granules that form flower designs. Each outer piece features a prominent boss with a nailed filigree rosette, set with a central paste (glass stone). The outer edges and the rosette of the central piece are also set with pastes, which add touches of colour to the bright silver. On the back of each piece there are two vertical bars for attaching the clasp to a belt.

Dimensions: Total length: 16.5 cm. Paisley-shaped elements: 6.2 x 4.9 cm. Height of central element: 6.2 cm.

Inv. no. 101: Silver-gilt poukla (buckle, clasp) consisting of three pieces. The outer two, horizontal pieces are paisley-shaped, while the central, vertical piece is oblong with a wavy outline. On all three parts, the applied filigree decoration forms large rosettes, nailed to the center and to the curved ends, as well as other smaller floral designs such as stems, leaves and flowers. The decoration is completed with applied granules, hemispheres and lozenges. On the back of each piece there are vertical bars for attaching the clasp to a belt. The central piece is joined to one outer piece. This type of clasp is well known in Greece (see Hatzimichali 1978, 75, fig. 64, Kaplani 1997, 119, no. 4118, Zora 1981 fig. 56, Mazarakis-Ainian and Iacovou 1995, 71).

Dimensions: Total length: 23 cm. Paisley-shaped pieces: 10.5 x 6.5 cm and 10 x 6.5 cm. Central piece: 9.5 x 5 cm.

Wide belt made of purple velvet, densely embroidered with gold thread. The neoclassical design consists of continuous spirals in a contrary arrangement, with curving acanthus leaves and various floral motifs in between. The flat stitch embroidery motifs are reinforced with paper underneath, creating the impression of relief. The entire length of the embroidered surface is bordered with an elaborate, fine edging, also made of gold thread. The back of the belt is lined and reinforced with purple satin and cotton fabric.

Dimensions: length 86 cm., width 6 cm., embroidery length 77 cm.