Silk

Cypriot costume of the “Amalia” type. It consists of the following pieces: Off-white silk chemise with a V opening at the chest, decorated with handmade pipilla (needle lace), which also adorns the edges of the sleeves.The puple skirt is ankle-length with rich folds at the waistline.  Sarka made of black felt with straight, long sleeves sewn vertically onto the shoulders, and a low upright collar. It closes above the waist, forming a large V opening at the bust. The collar, the sleeves and all the edges have a rich decoration of sewn-on gold cords. On both sides of the chest, the decoration extends into a paisley design. Even the seams of the sleeves are accentuated with gold decorative braid. The outfit is completed with a silver necklace. The “Amalia” costume was established in Cyprus before the mid-19th century. It was initially the formal attire worn by women in the urban centres, where it was preserved until the adoption of European dress. Later it was adopted in rural areas, where it was used as a festive or bridal outfit even as late as the first decades of the 20th century.     

Cypriot costume of the “Amalia” type. It consists of the following pieces: Off-white silk chemise with a V opening at the chest, decorated with handmade pipilla (needle lace), which also adorns the edges of the sleeves.The puple skirt is ankle-length with rich folds at the waistline.  Sarka made of black felt with straight, long sleeves sewn vertically onto the shoulders, and a low upright collar. It closes above the waist, forming a large V opening at the bust. The collar, the sleeves and all the edges have a rich decoration of sewn-on gold cords. On both sides of the chest, the decoration extends into a paisley design. Even the seams of the sleeves are accentuated with gold decorative braid. A red fez with a long thick tassel made of black silk threads. This dangling tassel falls on the chest, while a second tassel is fixed on the top of the fez, forming the tepeliki. The outfit is completed with a clasp. The “Amalia” costume was established in Cyprus before the mid-19th century. It was initially the formal attire worn by women in the urban centres, where it was preserved until the adoption of European dress. Later it was adopted in rural areas, where it was used as a festive or bridal outfit even as late as the first decades of the 20th century.     

A two pieces garment inspired by Levantine or Eastern Mediterranean historical styles influenced by european dress. It features a fitted bodice that transitions into a loose and flowing lower section, designed for comfort and practicality. The neckline is modest, roun, and the sleeves are either long and fitted indicative of the era. The material appears lightweight silk which were commonly used fabrics in warm climates. Its texture suggests a plain weave, with decorative elements like simple embroidery, trims and lace patterns, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. The color palette is subdued, predominantly neutral or earthy tones such as beige, brown, or soft pastels, reflecting the natural dyes. This dress exemplifies traditional attire designed for functionality while maintaining elegance, harmonizing with the cultural and environmental influences.

Ind. no. 218: Kilaniotiko square, silk headscarf decorated with the "tie-dye" technique.

As in all known specimens, which are very rare, the primary motif is a cross that divides the surface into four squares, each containing different lozenge designs. The peculiar, dotted outline of the designs is due to the practice of tying knots before each dyeing with a different colour, so as to maintain the colour of the tied parts. The bright yellow/gold colour that stands out most strongly in these handkerchiefs came from the initial dye, when the headscarf was boiled together with pieces of local Rhus cotinus (for the  method of dyeing kilaniotika headscarves, see Egoumenidou 1997, 41-42, fig. 12). It ends in fringes.

It belonged to Loukis Pierides.

Dimensions: 77 x 77 cm.       

Ind. no. 20: Belt made of black, silk fabric, embroidered with silk and metallic threads. It is divided into 11 sections, each featuring a pot with leaves, and a flower with petals in a radial arrangement. Above this central flower there are two smaller ones, one in each corner. The dividing line is embroidered with gold thread in satin stitch, as is the flowerpot that sits on this line, as well as the large leaves and the stem. Vertical ribs compose the relief surface of the pot. The central flower and two spirals below are embroidered with stem stitch in light brown/honey, as is the pollen of the small blue flowers. Deep green leaves on the sides of the pot are faintly visible on the black background. The design is simple and symmetrical. The theme of the flowerpot was very popular in Greek folk art. The belt would close with a metallic clasp.

Dimensions: Width of each compartment: 4.5 x 7 cm. Length: 75 cm.

Ind. no. 301: Long and narrow shawl or belt made of thin, transparent silk fabric, embroidered with metallic and silk threads in a satin stitch. All around the edges there are branches with alternating off-white and light blue, stylised leaves with gold flowers. The slender hair-like stamens of the flowers have white and light-blue ends. The dominant motif at the two narrow sides is the tuğra (sultan's monogram) accompanied by a star, while there is also a star and crescent symbol in each corner, all gold-embroidered. A metal thread finish extends all around. This is an Ottoman work of extremely delicate craftsmanship.

It was bought by the descendants of the Sivitanides family in Limassol.

Dimensions: Width: 60 cm. Length: 234 cm.

Loukis Pierides bought belts with tsevres embroidery from Mrs. Lewis.

Ind. no. 27: An almost square headscarf, decorated with flowers that sparsely cover the entire surface, arranged around a central flower in a wreath of buds. Soft colours are accentuated with bright oil green and deep red. The edges are decorated with pipilla (needle lace) made from light brown cord (the design and arrangement are comparable to, among others, the embroidery of Istanbul with a similar straight and pressed stitch, at the National History Museum of Athens: Greek Embroidery 1989, 88, no. 90. See also turban cover: Berker, s.a., 295, 1/70).

Dimensions: 46 x 53 cm.

Ind. no. 24: Long and narrow belt of two pieces of woven fabric joined in the middle, with embroidery at both ends. The depicted theme is a stylised tree with branches extending horizontally in two different levels on both sides of the trunk. Vertical, leafy branches extend  downwards in a herringbone pattern. They are repeated in a smaller size at the border that surrounds the tree on three sides. Empty spaces of the composition are filled with four small floral motifs. The ground from which the tree emerges is rendered with absolute stylisation. Soft, natural shades (brown, oil green) are combined with a little pink, light blue, and gold. A tree with a similar but less standardised arrangement of branches is found in a tsevres from Bursa (Ther 1993, 211).

Dimensions: 18-24 x 198 cm.

Ind. no. 23: Long and narrow belt made from two pieces of woven taisto fabric joined in the middle, and decorated with embroidery at both ends. Emerging from a disproportionately small vase is a vine with leaves and grapes, and with a large inclining flower at the top. The composition is surrounded on three sides by a similar vine with leaves and grapes. The pattern is entirely stylised and symmetrical, embroidered with a tight single stitch (misovelonia, half cross stitch, namely of one diagonal arm of a full cross stitch) that gives the impression of fil tiré. The colours of the decoration are vivid, in silk and gold.

Dimensions: 15/20 x 212 cm.

Inv. no. 294: Urban-style dress made of silk fabric. The entire surface of the dress is embroidered with delicate flower branches in soft shades of white, green, and pink on a light blue background. The bouquets are surrounded by double curvilinear frames, embroidered with a fine chain-stitch.

The ankle-length dress has long sleeves and a deep opening at the chest. The bodice consists of a separate piece of fabric, as also the sleeves. White fabric with a ribbon lacing, like that of male vests, has been added to the back for an adjustable fit. The lower part of the dress consists of a single piece of fabric with many folds. At the height where pockets are usually found, there are two 17cm openings with a black finish. The edges of the chest opening and the sleeves, as well as the hem are decorated with a wavy blue ribbon trimmed with sewn-on sequins. The chest opening is covered with an off-white tulle embroidered with delicate flowers and decorated with handmade sewn-on daisies and pipilla (needle lace). The dress belonged to the family of Georgios Sivitanides, in Limassol. 19th century.

Dress length: 131 cm.