fabric

Inv. no. 296: Cypriot costume of the “Amalia” type. It consists of the following pieces:

1. Off-white silk chemise with a V opening at the chest, decorated with handmade pipilla (needle lace), which also adorns the edges of the sleeves.
2. A skirt made of imported fabric with stripes in vivid red, yellow and green, as well as  delicate designs in lighter colours, all in a vertical arrangement. The skirt is ankle-length with rich folds at the waistline. A blue ribbon with a red band in the middle extends all around, above the hem.

This type of colourful fabric, which was common in Cyprus, in particular after the mid-19th century, was also used to make sarkes (waist jackets with long sleeves). In certain regions (Mesaoria), these jackets, matched with a skirt, were called “misirkotika”, probably a reference to the origin of the fabric in Misir (Egypt) (photographs of “misirkotika” see in Michalopoulou-Charalampous 1993, 199).

1. Sarka made of black felt with straight, long sleeves sewn vertically onto the shoulders, and a low upright collar. It closes above the waist, forming a large V opening at the bust. The collar, the sleeves and all the edges have a rich decoration of sewn-on gold cords. On both sides of the chest, the decoration extends into a paisley design. Even the seams of the sleeves are accentuated with gold decorative braid.
2. A red fez with a long thick tassel made of black silk threads. This dangling tassel falls on the chest, while a second tassel is fixed on the top of the fez, forming the tepeliki.

The outfit is completed with jewellery, a clasp, a necklace and a pin (for jewellery, see below). The “Amalia” costume was established in Cyprus before the mid-19th century. It was initially the formal attire worn by women in the urban centres, where it was preserved until the adoption of European dress. Later it was adopted in rural areas, where it was used as a festive or bridal outfit even as late as the first decades of the 20th century.          

Amalia costume from Cyprus.

Skirt of satakrouta, a pure silk fabric made from coarse unboiled silk. The name derives from the Italian term seta cruda. The colour of the fabric is somon (from the French saumon, salmon). The light-coloured field is interrupted at intervals by parallel horizontal stripes formed in the weft. The stripes are in three groups, each of which has six stripes – three fine and three broader stripes. The colours (from top to bottom) are light green, deep red, and purple. Below the bottom group, at the lower edge of the skirt, there is a broad band in dark/cypress green. The thin stripes have a 0.5 cm width, the wide stripes have a 1 cm width, and the green band at the bottom is 4 cm wide. The width of each group is 10 cm. The skirt is ankle-length and widens towards the hem. It gathers at the waist, where a thin belt of the same fabric has been sewn on. At the side, there is a vertical opening of 15 cm, with two cotton ribbons that tie at the waist. It is lined with off-white cotton fabric and it has a simple hem at the bottom. In places, the fabric is stained and shows signs of wear.

Women’s short long-sleeved jacket (sarka) of black felt, with sewn-on decoration. The sarka consists of a single piece of fabric, which covers the chest and the back, while additional pieces cover the body under the armpits. The sleeves are made of separate pieces of felt, which are sewn vertically onto the body. The vertical opening on the chest is deep and oval-shaped, and closes at the lower part with five hook-and-eye clasps. Around the opening of the chest, all around the bottom edge of the garment and the edges of the sleeves, there is a sewn-on decorative band of twisted cord and gold thread, formed into stylised floral patterns with a chain-like finish.

Gilt buckle (poukla) made of silver alloy.

Myrmidin, a women's metallic gold-plated breast ornament. It consists of thin chains, with three vertical ones connected by nine horizontal ones.

Silver-gilt pendant comprising a chain of spherical filigree beads (toutounia), and a filigree cross.

Headscarve made of kouroukla, dyed with a dark burgundy colour, called xidin. It is decorated with printed floral motifs in red and yellow, with black outlining. The designs – of the edges (kkenarin) and the four corners (the milia) – are similar to those of the other printed headscarves of the workshop of Evris Michael (or Euripides Mantilaris) and Kakoullis Brothers. Pipilla lace decorates the edges of the headscarves and is handsewn in silk thread. The lace pattern features tiny white flowers with green leaves, repeated in a row.

Reconstruction of women’s costume from Cyprus, from the CMLE collection. The following pages contain the various parts of the costume: shirt (CMLE 1015/2), skirt (CMLE 2195/5), sarka (CMLE 1985/2), buckle (CMLE 2499/2), necklace (myrmidin) (CMLE 13905), women’s red fez (CMLE 2213/11) and fez headscarf (CMLE 2145).

Long vest (yelekkin) made of cotton striped cloth (alatzia), with alternating stripes in the following order: brown, white, green, white, red, white, green, white and brown. The front part consists of two pieces, while the back is of a single piece joining at the sides, under the armpits, to the two front pieces, leaving two small openings at the lower part. There is a small standing collar and a vertical opening at the chest, lined with a braid of cord with 12 facing loops and 12 corresponding buttons, which constitute a later addition. On the right side of the chest, there is a horizontal opening for an inner pocket, which is lined with checkered alatzia in blue and red. The opening of the pocket is accentuated with black zigzag cord with small sewn-on pieces of red fabric and three tassels, two light-blue and one red. The vertical opening at the front is emphasised on both sides with a decorative band of zigzag lines and a floral motif, all made of thick blue cord. The patterns resemble stylised branches, embroidered in opposite directions, in a horizontal position. This decoration is enriched with scattered, sewn-on tiny pieces of fabric in red and blue. The shoulders, the collar and the arm openings are also emphasised with the zigzag line of blue cord. The garment is lined with beige cotton fabric. This type of rural vest is made of homemade alatzia woven on a loom. It is encountered frequently, varying according to the colours of the weave of the alatzia and the variation in handmade embroidered decoration (see for example a similar type of waistcoat from Mesaoria, in the Cyprus Folk Art Museum: Papademetriou 1991, 107, figure 72; see also the waistcoat in the Cypriot ethnographic collection of the Benaki Museum: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2010, 112-113, no. 80).

Dimensions: height 50 cm., width 43 cm.

Purchased for 132 drachmas or 4.50 Cypriot pounds.

Double-breasted vest of blue figured velvet with black flowers. The front part consists of four pieces of fabric, of which the inner two, those which cross over the chest, are triangular. The back is made of a single piece of fabric, without an opening. On the right side of the chest, there is an internal pocket with an oval opening, decorated with black cord forming a zigzag line and loops. The joints, openings and bottom edge are decorated in a similar fashion, with zigzag lines and loops of black cord. There is off-white trim at the front opening and around the low standing collar. At the bottom edge of the inner triangular chest pieces, there are two loops which allow the waistcoat to close with buttons on both sides. The two buttons on the left side, one of which is on the inside, are later additions. The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric.

Dimensions: height 42 cm., width 44 cm.

Donated by Nikos Triantafyllou. Purchased for 4.50 pounds in Cyprus.

Double-breasted vest with a standing collar. The front consists of four pieces of imported purple silk fabric with a bouquet of two red flowers with yellow stems and small leaves, and larger leaves in green. The vest has a small triangular opening on the chest and fastens diagonally on the left side with a black cord. All the openings are adorned with soutache. At the edge of the front opening, there is a series of loops made of cord, forming a festoon pattern. At each arm opening, a little below the shoulder, there is a decorative black tassel. The right side features an internal pocket with soutache at the opening. The bottom of the pocket is triangular. The outline of the pocket as a whole is emphasised with a double row of stitches, as are also the seams that join the pieces of fabric forming the front part of the garment. The back is a single piece of striped woollen fabric, with alternating brown and olive green stripes, accentuated by a herringbone pattern in olive green and beige. The back of the waistcoat is 10 cm shorter than the front, an interesting design feature also observed in other Cypriot waistcoats. The back has a central vertical opening and soutache loops. It is drawn tight with ribbons in red and blue. The collar is decorated with a double zigzag and is finished with soutache and double cord joined lengthways in the centre. The vest is lined with white fabric.

Dimensions: Front height 49 cm., back height 39 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: N. Triantafyllou. Purchased for 4.50 Cypriot pounds.

Double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front part consists of two pieces of silk fabric, similar to that of waistcoat 6095. The gold interwoven floral motifs feature a variety of leaves and floral decorations, which, because of the better condition of the fabric, are more distinct. The colours – violet, blue/light blue, fuchsia, orange, yellow – are reminiscent of the rainbow. There are eight buttons made of silk cord on each side, in loops of 2cm. These correspond, on each side, to eight buttonholes of black soutache with tassels. The top buttonhole is incorporated into the perimetric finish. There is decorative soutache all along the opening of the back/chest. On the lower right side, there is a vase-shaped pocket made of the same silk fabric. It has a triangular point, and its elegant outline is decorated with a double row of black soutache. There are decorative loops at the five corners of the pocket. The pocket opening is finished in a triple row of soutache with a series of small loops at the top. The back is made of a single piece of blue velvet and has a central vertical opening with seven pairs and one single eyelet (15 in total), through which cross two ribbons in blue and orange colour. The opening on the back, the arm openings and the edges of the waistcoat are decorated with soutache. The vest has a beige cotton lining, on which there are two similar stamps. ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) is written in the centre of the stamps, and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter.

Dimensions: height 41 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: Chr. Koutlidou.

Double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front consists of two pieces of old silk fabric with a golden interwoven decoration of floral motifs, including leaves and flowers. The colours are violet, blue, fuchsia, orange, yellow and light blue, and are reminiscent of a rainbow. There are ten pairs of buttons with corresponding buttonholes on each side. The top buttonhole is incorporated into the decorative finish of the chest. In between and extending from the buttonholes there are decorative patterns made of cord. The buttons are of black silk with tassels. They are attached to 2.5 cm. loops, at the base of which is a chain-like pattern of cord. The buttons are reinforced internally with blue cord in a diagonal arrangement, like the buttons at the bottom of the front. The cord forms two decorative spirals, measuring 3cm and 2cm respectively. On the right side of the chest there is a vase-shaped pocket with a pointed end. The pocket is divided into two parts; the upper part is made of blue felt and the lower of light blue felt. It is adorned with black soutache and tricolour cord in black, burgundy and orange-yellow, which extends into a S-shaped design. At the bottom edge, the cords end in a tassel. The back consists of a single piece of dark blue velvet with gussets (additional triangles) under each armpit. In the centre of the back there is a vertical opening with nine pairs of metallic (bronze) eyelets, and one at the very top, through which passes a light green ribbon. The opening and the bottom edge are decorated with sewn-own cord, one in light green, and the other tricolour (burgundy, orange and black), forming a series of interconnected curved triangles ending in loops. At the top of the vertical opening, the same cords form a large central spiral that extends into curvilinear and spiral designs. The sleeves and neck are also finished with green and tricolour cord. Internally, there is black soutache and tricolour cord at the vertical opening and at the edge of the back. The buttonholes are reinforced with green woollen material both inside and outside. At the opening of the neck and the chest, there is a reinforcing striped band in black, off-white, blue and purple. The vest is lined with beige cotton fabric. On the right side of the lining, there is a circular ink stamp with the words ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) in the centre, and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter. 

Dimensions: height 44 cm., width 41 cm.

Donation: Chr. Koutlidou

Double-breasted vest made of black velvet. The front consists of two pieces of black velvet, while the back consists of a single piece of the same fabric. On the right side of the front, there is an additional triangular piece of velvet.  On the same side, six buttons covered with black silk thread are attached to loops of 2 cm. There are six corresponding buttonholes, one of which is incorporated into the decoration of the perimeter of the chest. The buttons are attached on the inside with beige cord in diagonal arrangement. On the other side, there are also six buttons, and five buttonholes. The lower buttons on both sides appear to be decorative. On the lower part of the right side, there is a vase-shaped pocket, made of two pieces of fabric, separated with soutache and orange cord. The upper part is of black felt, and the lower part of purple velvet. The pocket is outlined by black soutache and orange cord, which end in a tassel.

There is a bird in the centre of the right side, outlined by light blue and orange cord, with dense embroidery in light green, burgundy and orange, filling the body and tail. The feet are embroidered in burgundy colour. The large chest opening is decorated all around with black embroidery with a curvilinear finish. The decoration is completed with seven rows of soutache, which adorn also the sides and the bottom edge of the front. There is an opening between the soutache of the decoration, into which a series of loops made of black cord is inserted, with a finishing of cord forming loops with tassels. On the back, there is a central vertical opening with 11 metallic eyelets. It closes with a light blue ribbon, which is a later addition. There is a decorative, stylised floral motif at the top of the opening. Its centre consists of a lozenge with a mat design filling in burgundy and light blue, while above and below there are leaf shapes and other designs, in light green, burgundy and orange – the same colours with those of the bird that decorates the front of the vest. The opening and the lower part of the back are accentuated with light blue and orange cord, the same colours with those of the outline of the bird. The opening of the sleeves is decorated with soutache and orange cord, while the side seams are accentuated with black soutache and orange cord. The inside of the buttonholes is reinforced with black velvet. The opening of the chest is reinforced internally with a band featuring a herringbone pattern in yellow and black. The vest is lined with beige cotton fabric, featuring an undecipherable stamp.

Dimensions: height 40 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: E. Dimitriou.

Vest (yelekkin) made of black velvet with intricate sewn-on embroidery of thin black cord. The vest features some distinct characteristics. Seven facing pairs of decorative buttons with tassels are sewn on the front opening, below which the vest closes with four pairs of buttons. All the buttons are covered with black silk thread, and they are passed in pairs through a single loop which passes through buttonholes. It can be fully closed by passing the buttons through their loops on the opposite side of the waistcoat. When the buttons are fastened in the buttonholes, an opening 5 cm. wide is created at the edge of their loop, revealing the date 1903, which is formed  by an orange cord sewn-on an inner piece of velvet, attached only at the right side of the front opening. This piece of fabric is trapezoidal in shape and features double soutache along its perimeter. There is an internal pocket on each side, both with their opening similarly decorated with triple soutache. The back has many decorative patterns, including spirals and other curling and stylised floral motifs, all made of black cord. At the centre of the lower edge of the back, there is a complex triangular design with curved sides, while the top of the back is adorned with a lozenge with a mat design filling and a composition of small spirals, above and below. The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric, on which there is a circular ink stamp with the words ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) in the centre, and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter. The name Αντρούλα (Antroula) is also written on the lining. The decoration is similar to that of the vest 2683/2.

Dimensions: height 46 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: Ch. Koutlidou