fabric

Long vest (yelekkin) made of cotton striped cloth (alatzia), with alternating stripes in the following order: brown, white, green, white, red, white, green, white and brown. The front part consists of two pieces, while the back is of a single piece joining at the sides, under the armpits, to the two front pieces, leaving two small openings at the lower part. There is a small standing collar and a vertical opening at the chest, lined with a braid of cord with 12 facing loops and 12 corresponding buttons, which constitute a later addition. On the right side of the chest, there is a horizontal opening for an inner pocket, which is lined with checkered alatzia in blue and red. The opening of the pocket is accentuated with black zigzag cord with small sewn-on pieces of red fabric and three tassels, two light-blue and one red. The vertical opening at the front is emphasised on both sides with a decorative band of zigzag lines and a floral motif, all made of thick blue cord. The patterns resemble stylised branches, embroidered in opposite directions, in a horizontal position. This decoration is enriched with scattered, sewn-on tiny pieces of fabric in red and blue. The shoulders, the collar and the arm openings are also emphasised with the zigzag line of blue cord. The garment is lined with beige cotton fabric. This type of rural vest is made of homemade alatzia woven on a loom. It is encountered frequently, varying according to the colours of the weave of the alatzia and the variation in handmade embroidered decoration (see for example a similar type of waistcoat from Mesaoria, in the Cyprus Folk Art Museum: Papademetriou 1991, 107, figure 72; see also the waistcoat in the Cypriot ethnographic collection of the Benaki Museum: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2010, 112-113, no. 80).

Dimensions: height 50 cm., width 43 cm.

Purchased for 132 drachmas or 4.50 Cypriot pounds.

Double-breasted vest of blue figured velvet with black flowers. The front part consists of four pieces of fabric, of which the inner two, those which cross over the chest, are triangular. The back is made of a single piece of fabric, without an opening. On the right side of the chest, there is an internal pocket with an oval opening, decorated with black cord forming a zigzag line and loops. The joints, openings and bottom edge are decorated in a similar fashion, with zigzag lines and loops of black cord. There is off-white trim at the front opening and around the low standing collar. At the bottom edge of the inner triangular chest pieces, there are two loops which allow the waistcoat to close with buttons on both sides. The two buttons on the left side, one of which is on the inside, are later additions. The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric.

Dimensions: height 42 cm., width 44 cm.

Donated by Nikos Triantafyllou. Purchased for 4.50 pounds in Cyprus.

Double-breasted vest with a standing collar. The front consists of four pieces of imported purple silk fabric with a bouquet of two red flowers with yellow stems and small leaves, and larger leaves in green. The vest has a small triangular opening on the chest and fastens diagonally on the left side with a black cord. All the openings are adorned with soutache. At the edge of the front opening, there is a series of loops made of cord, forming a festoon pattern. At each arm opening, a little below the shoulder, there is a decorative black tassel. The right side features an internal pocket with soutache at the opening. The bottom of the pocket is triangular. The outline of the pocket as a whole is emphasised with a double row of stitches, as are also the seams that join the pieces of fabric forming the front part of the garment. The back is a single piece of striped woollen fabric, with alternating brown and olive green stripes, accentuated by a herringbone pattern in olive green and beige. The back of the waistcoat is 10 cm shorter than the front, an interesting design feature also observed in other Cypriot waistcoats. The back has a central vertical opening and soutache loops. It is drawn tight with ribbons in red and blue. The collar is decorated with a double zigzag and is finished with soutache and double cord joined lengthways in the centre. The vest is lined with white fabric.

Dimensions: Front height 49 cm., back height 39 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: N. Triantafyllou. Purchased for 4.50 Cypriot pounds.

Double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front part consists of two pieces of silk fabric, similar to that of waistcoat 6095. The gold interwoven floral motifs feature a variety of leaves and floral decorations, which, because of the better condition of the fabric, are more distinct. The colours – violet, blue/light blue, fuchsia, orange, yellow – are reminiscent of the rainbow. There are eight buttons made of silk cord on each side, in loops of 2cm. These correspond, on each side, to eight buttonholes of black soutache with tassels. The top buttonhole is incorporated into the perimetric finish. There is decorative soutache all along the opening of the back/chest. On the lower right side, there is a vase-shaped pocket made of the same silk fabric. It has a triangular point, and its elegant outline is decorated with a double row of black soutache. There are decorative loops at the five corners of the pocket. The pocket opening is finished in a triple row of soutache with a series of small loops at the top. The back is made of a single piece of blue velvet and has a central vertical opening with seven pairs and one single eyelet (15 in total), through which cross two ribbons in blue and orange colour. The opening on the back, the arm openings and the edges of the waistcoat are decorated with soutache. The vest has a beige cotton lining, on which there are two similar stamps. ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) is written in the centre of the stamps, and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter.

Dimensions: height 41 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: Chr. Koutlidou.

Double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front consists of two pieces of old silk fabric with a golden interwoven decoration of floral motifs, including leaves and flowers. The colours are violet, blue, fuchsia, orange, yellow and light blue, and are reminiscent of a rainbow. There are ten pairs of buttons with corresponding buttonholes on each side. The top buttonhole is incorporated into the decorative finish of the chest. In between and extending from the buttonholes there are decorative patterns made of cord. The buttons are of black silk with tassels. They are attached to 2.5 cm. loops, at the base of which is a chain-like pattern of cord. The buttons are reinforced internally with blue cord in a diagonal arrangement, like the buttons at the bottom of the front. The cord forms two decorative spirals, measuring 3cm and 2cm respectively. On the right side of the chest there is a vase-shaped pocket with a pointed end. The pocket is divided into two parts; the upper part is made of blue felt and the lower of light blue felt. It is adorned with black soutache and tricolour cord in black, burgundy and orange-yellow, which extends into a S-shaped design. At the bottom edge, the cords end in a tassel. The back consists of a single piece of dark blue velvet with gussets (additional triangles) under each armpit. In the centre of the back there is a vertical opening with nine pairs of metallic (bronze) eyelets, and one at the very top, through which passes a light green ribbon. The opening and the bottom edge are decorated with sewn-own cord, one in light green, and the other tricolour (burgundy, orange and black), forming a series of interconnected curved triangles ending in loops. At the top of the vertical opening, the same cords form a large central spiral that extends into curvilinear and spiral designs. The sleeves and neck are also finished with green and tricolour cord. Internally, there is black soutache and tricolour cord at the vertical opening and at the edge of the back. The buttonholes are reinforced with green woollen material both inside and outside. At the opening of the neck and the chest, there is a reinforcing striped band in black, off-white, blue and purple. The vest is lined with beige cotton fabric. On the right side of the lining, there is a circular ink stamp with the words ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) in the centre, and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter. 

Dimensions: height 44 cm., width 41 cm.

Donation: Chr. Koutlidou

Double-breasted vest made of black velvet. The front consists of two pieces of black velvet, while the back consists of a single piece of the same fabric. On the right side of the front, there is an additional triangular piece of velvet.  On the same side, six buttons covered with black silk thread are attached to loops of 2 cm. There are six corresponding buttonholes, one of which is incorporated into the decoration of the perimeter of the chest. The buttons are attached on the inside with beige cord in diagonal arrangement. On the other side, there are also six buttons, and five buttonholes. The lower buttons on both sides appear to be decorative. On the lower part of the right side, there is a vase-shaped pocket, made of two pieces of fabric, separated with soutache and orange cord. The upper part is of black felt, and the lower part of purple velvet. The pocket is outlined by black soutache and orange cord, which end in a tassel.

There is a bird in the centre of the right side, outlined by light blue and orange cord, with dense embroidery in light green, burgundy and orange, filling the body and tail. The feet are embroidered in burgundy colour. The large chest opening is decorated all around with black embroidery with a curvilinear finish. The decoration is completed with seven rows of soutache, which adorn also the sides and the bottom edge of the front. There is an opening between the soutache of the decoration, into which a series of loops made of black cord is inserted, with a finishing of cord forming loops with tassels. On the back, there is a central vertical opening with 11 metallic eyelets. It closes with a light blue ribbon, which is a later addition. There is a decorative, stylised floral motif at the top of the opening. Its centre consists of a lozenge with a mat design filling in burgundy and light blue, while above and below there are leaf shapes and other designs, in light green, burgundy and orange – the same colours with those of the bird that decorates the front of the vest. The opening and the lower part of the back are accentuated with light blue and orange cord, the same colours with those of the outline of the bird. The opening of the sleeves is decorated with soutache and orange cord, while the side seams are accentuated with black soutache and orange cord. The inside of the buttonholes is reinforced with black velvet. The opening of the chest is reinforced internally with a band featuring a herringbone pattern in yellow and black. The vest is lined with beige cotton fabric, featuring an undecipherable stamp.

Dimensions: height 40 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: E. Dimitriou.

Vest (yelekkin) made of black velvet with intricate sewn-on embroidery of thin black cord. The vest features some distinct characteristics. Seven facing pairs of decorative buttons with tassels are sewn on the front opening, below which the vest closes with four pairs of buttons. All the buttons are covered with black silk thread, and they are passed in pairs through a single loop which passes through buttonholes. It can be fully closed by passing the buttons through their loops on the opposite side of the waistcoat. When the buttons are fastened in the buttonholes, an opening 5 cm. wide is created at the edge of their loop, revealing the date 1903, which is formed  by an orange cord sewn-on an inner piece of velvet, attached only at the right side of the front opening. This piece of fabric is trapezoidal in shape and features double soutache along its perimeter. There is an internal pocket on each side, both with their opening similarly decorated with triple soutache. The back has many decorative patterns, including spirals and other curling and stylised floral motifs, all made of black cord. At the centre of the lower edge of the back, there is a complex triangular design with curved sides, while the top of the back is adorned with a lozenge with a mat design filling and a composition of small spirals, above and below. The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric, on which there is a circular ink stamp with the words ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) in the centre, and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter. The name Αντρούλα (Antroula) is also written on the lining. The decoration is similar to that of the vest 2683/2.

Dimensions: height 46 cm., width 43 cm.

Donation: Ch. Koutlidou

Double-breasted vest that closes with buttons on both sides. The front consists of two pieces of blue felt, and the back of one piece of red felt. The wide neck opening is outlined with sewn-on embroidery of black braid forming a spiral motif. Black braids emphasise the bottom edges of the vest’s front, as well as the buttonholes. There are seven buttonholes. The buttons, of which three are preserved on each side, are covered with black silk thread. They are arranged diagonally and affixed with cord. There is an internal pocket on the right side of the chest. The pocket’s opening has been closed with stitches applied subsequently to the manufacture of the vest. On the left there is a vase-shaped pocket decorated all around with thin cord. A similar cord runs along the opening of the other pocket and accentuates all the seams of the vest. On the back there is a central vertical opening with 22 pairs of eyelets, through which crosses a multicolour cord, in order to adjust the opening for a better fit. Both the top and the base of the vertical opening feature sewn-on spiral patterns made of a thin cord in blue, red and yellow colours. The decorative pattern at the lower part of the vest consists of three spirals, while at the top of the opening there is a more complex triangular design with compact curvilinear motifs. Both patterns end with two tiny spirals one on top of the other. The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric, and the neck opening is reinforced with a ready-made striped band.

Dimensions: height 46 cm., width 43 cm.

Men’s double-breasted vest. The front consists of two pieces of burgundy velvet, with sewn-on black decoration. On each side, there are eight buttons made of black silk arranged diagonally, with tassels at the end (one button is missing). The loops of the buttons are affixed to a lattice pattern of double black thread, and reinforced internally with off-white cord, also arranged diagonally. The buttonholes are decorated with soutache and twisted cord, which extends into spiral patterns. The opening of the chest is adorned on both sides with dense sewn-on embroidery forming a black lattice pattern, which is surrounded by series of soutache and twisted cord with small spirals. The embroidery ends in a series of loops of twisted cord. The four middle buttonholes on the right side are decorated with more complex sewn-on embroidery in black, each ending in a row of four spirals. Below, the edge of the front side is adorned with quadruple soutache and lattice embroidery with spirals. On the right side, there is a vase-shaped pocket of black velvet with a curvilinear outline of black soutache and four rows of tricolour cord. The pointed base ends in a tassel. The year 1900 is embroidered in the centre of the pocket, and decorated above and below with green and orange cords in a chain-like design, with spirals at the tips. The right side of the chest features a small, colourful and elaborate decorative motif in a triangular shape, finished at the bottom end with a triple spiral of blue cord, while the top end features five small spirals around the perimeter.

The back consists of two pieces of black velvet with a seam above the central, vertical opening, which is crowned with a decorative lozenge design ending in curvilinear and spiral patterns, similar to those of the vest 3459. The lozenge is covered with lattice embroidery of blue cord. The entire motif is made of three cords in orange, blue and tricolour (black, orange and burgundy).

The opening of the back closes with a braid, made of red, blue and yellow cord which crosses through pairs of eyelets. Nine out of the 13 eyelets are preserved. The opening is surrounded by a double row of blue and tricolour thread, and a band of lattice patterns made of orange and green cords, which extend to the bottom edges on both sides. On the inside of the lattice patterns is a double row of blue and tricolour thread. The bottom edge and the opening are decorated with black soutache and tricolour cord.

The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric. Behind the buttonholes on both sides, there is a reinforcing piece of brown woollen fabric, 1 – 6.5 cm. wide. The inside of the opening of the chest/neck has a reinforcing band with dark blue, white and purple stripes.  

On the left and right side, the off-white cotton lining features a circular ink stamp, with ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) written in the centre and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter. On the right side, there is an additional oval stamp with the words ΚΩΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ (KONSTANTINOS LEFKOSIA). 2 AA are written in ink.

Dimensions: height 39.5 cm., width 42.5 cm.

Donation: Ch. Koutlidou

Two identical men's double-breasted vests with exceptionally rich and elaborate decoration. The two front pieces are made of light blue felt, while the back is made of a single piece of red felt. The vests close across the chest on both sides. Eight buttons made of black silk hang from loops with corresponding buttonholes, the first of which is incorporated into the embroidered part. The buttons are arranged diagonally and fixed with black cords on the inner side. There is a vase-shaped pocket on each side, made of light green velvet and embroidered with curvilinear and spiral motifs using sewn-on cord of yellow/orange colour. These designs cover most of the surface of the pocket and are contained within a frame of red and light blue cord. The outline of the pocket consists of tricolour cord and black soutache, a ready-made double cord, which is applied at the joints during fabrication. The cord of the outline extends to the upper edges of the pocket, forming curvilinear designs at the ends. The cords end in a tassel at the bottom edge of the pocket. The pockets are similar to one another. The opening of the neck and chest is lined with rich sewn-on embroidery of black silk thread featuring a variety of curvilinear motifs, arabesques, spirals, lozenges and squares. The finish consists of twisted cord and soutache. At the bottom part of the vest, the same pattern extends to the side seams, which are finished with loops of twisted cord. Both sides of the chest feature large S-shaped designs made of black cords, the top end of which terminates in a leaf filled with embroidery floss in yellow and coral colours, while the bottom end terminates in curvilinear and spiral designs. The leaf motif is repeated on the right side of the chest, where it is formed in the extension of a lozenge surrounded by double spiral motifs.

The back is made of red felt and consists of two pieces of fabric with a central vertical opening, which closes with a green ribbon which crosses through pairs of metallic eyelets. On either side of the opening there are elaborate motifs of double lozenges with lattice filling. The lozenges extend into curvilinear and spiral designs with leaf-shaped endings.

The same pattern, but with only one lozenge, is repeated in a smaller version above the opening of the back, flanked by two facing lions with eyes formed of double spirals, and long tails that end in arrows. The figure of facing lions is common in folk art, and is found in stone carvings, wood carvings and elsewhere (see Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2006, 174-175).

The opening and the edges of the back are lined with a chain-like design, featuring small spirals at its upper end and two rows of cord at its bottom edge. The whole of the back has a cord finish. The outline of the designs on the back is of made of thin cord, while the filling consists of floss thread in the same colours of orange, light blue and green. The decorative motifs show an Islamic influence, and are also found as engraved designs in copper vessels dating to the 18th and 19th centuries.

On the inside, the opening of the chest and the neck are reinforced with a braid with yellow and olive-green stripes. On both sides, the buttonholes are reinforced internally with two pieces of blue felt, with a width of 6-9 cm. On the left and right, the off-white cotton lining features a circular ink stamp, in the centre of which is written ΛΕΥΚΩΣΙΑ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (LEFKOSIA CYPRUS) and ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ ΦΙΛΗΣ ΠΑΡΑΓΩΓΟΣ (GEORGIOS FILIS MANUFACTURER) around the perimeter. 

This item is similar to the vest which is part of the costume of the Turkish Cypriot. This costume was included in the collection of Georgios Frangoudis, which was presented in the “Cypriot Exhibition” in Athens, organised in 1901  by the Patriotic Association of Cypriots.  The collection of the costumes was later donated to the National Historical Museum (Gangadi et al. 1999, 121-123). Very similar vests, combined with baggy trousers and featuring similar ornamentation, are included in the Collection of Aziz Damdelen.

Dimensions: (CMLE 6093) height 44.5 cm., width 48 cm. (CMLE 6094) height 45 cm., width 42 cm.

Donation: Chr. Koutlidou.