velvet

Ind. no. 28: Black velvet belt lined with black fabric, embroidered with a design similar to that of belt no. 20. The shape of the central flower in the pot differs, as do some of the colours. The design is repeated nine times. Α velvet belt with an identical design and with a silver clasp attached to its ends is depicted by Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter ((1913) 1994, fig. 67), who compares it to an ancient articulated belt of metallic plaques. Therefore, the belts in the Pierides Collection could be dated to the end of the 19th century and it is possible that they are even older.

Dimensions: Width of each compartment: 4.5 x 7.5 cm. Length: 71.5 cm.

These belts were used as part of an urban Cypriot costume. They were owned by Eleni Nikoli Tavernari, the grandmother of Theodora Z. Pieridou.

ΜΓ 302

A man’s double-breasted vest made of maroon and black velvet.

The front consists of a panel of maroon velvet on either side of the breast. Each of the two front panels is joined on the side to an oblong piece of black velvet. The back, also of black velvet, appears as a single piece, with a slit lengthwise at the centre, from the waist until high up on the back (opening height: 28.5 cm).

The vest closes on either side, with two oblique rows of eight buttons fixed to a black braided cord, sewn-on inside. The buttons have a beige fabric core and a lining of black cord. The long loops to which the buttons are fixed are joined at the base by an oblique band of fine, black double cord forming a double row of lozenges (net pattern). Rows of cords, combined with braids, also frame the oblong buttonholes. The arched tops of five buttonholes are crowned by a decorative pattern in spiral formations. The oblong opening of the buttonholes allowed the buttons to move, offering ease of movement. Such comfort was necessary, given that the vests were worn as festive garments and for dancing.

Along the neck opening extend rows of braids and black cords that follow the contour and continue until the bottom edge of the front panels of the vest. In the lower part of the neck opening, between the rows of cords, a fine band includes consecutive spirals, exposing the red velvet of the base. Further down, there develops a dense mat pattern with a curvilinear end in the lower part, which is defined by parallel rows of cords and spiral motifs. On the contour of the neckline couched decoration, numerous stitches of light-coloured thread are discernible, fixing the decoration to the fabric.

On the right side of the breast, beneath the decoration of the neck opening, there is a geometrical design, formed of yellow and light-blue twisted cords. The central pattern is rectangular, filled with blue braid, over which a triangular design is formed, empty on the inside. Lower, a lozenge with mat filling extends to the lower part with smaller spirals and a tiny lozenge between them. Further down on the same side, a vase-shaped pocket is trimmed with rows of twisted cords of brown-yellow and light-blue, as well as a brown/black braid. The ends of the brown-yellow cords are projected hook-shaped in the upper extremities, whereas in the lower part they open up to form a tassel. At the centre of the pocket, there extends a horizontal decorative design of two parallel cords, one yellow and one light-blue, that form two zig-zag lines with small loops on the corners, above and below a horizontal line. The pocket is placed above the seam of the vest on the side. The armholes and the side seams are accentuated by brown/black braid and one or two twisted cords of brown-yellow.

On the back of the vest, a ribbon of red fabric criss-crosses through fourteen holes with metallic eyelets, facing each other on either side of the vertical opening. The opening is trimmed with brown braid and a twisted brown-yellow cord, whereas on the inside of the metallic eyelets, a double cord, light blue and twisted brown-yellow, repeats the shape of the opening. Innermost zig-zag lines formed with light blue and yellow cord, with small loops on the tops, continue along the edges of the back and extend to the side. On the front, on the red velvet, a zig-zag line of black cord continues to the lower edges above rows of cords. The curve of the contour at the base of the neck opening is decorated externally with a sewn-on row of dense loops, also of black cord. Over the opening of the back, there is a symmetrical decorative design with a lozenge at the centre and oval shapes above and below. At the base of the design, on either side above the top of the opening, there are two leaf-shaped patterns. The border of the design is formed with yellow and light blue cord, whereas the inside of the patterns is covered by rows of coloured twisted threads in green, yellow and red. On the inside of the lozenge, twisted cords in red form a mat pattern, through which a double cord in light blue runs horizontally.

The inside of the vest is covered by beige cotton lining, hand-sewn. Along the perimeter of the neck opening, there extends a reinforcing band of fabric with pink and green stripes, hand-sewn with black thread. Further down, the bias-cut opening of the breast is reinforced internally on both sides with a piece of black velvet.

Height: 42 cm.

Width: 24 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the armpits, 34 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection 13.9.1980

Provenance: Polemi, Pafos – Purchased from Ι. Theodosiou.

ΜΓ 45

A man’s double-breasted vest made of black and maroon velvet.

The front of the vest consists of two panels of maroon velvet on either side of the breast, one of which, high on the shoulder, is small. Beneath each armpit, a triangular panel of black velvet has been added, whereas the back is formed as a single piece, also of black velvet.

The vest closes on either side, with two oblique rows of eight spherical buttons, fixed from the inside to a thick braided cord, also placed obliquely. The handmade buttons, of black cord around an off-white fabric core, suspend from the ends of long braided loops to allow ease of movement. The loops of the buttons project through a double row of lozenges made with couched black cords. Buttonholes with an oblong opening correspond to the buttons, also for ease of movement. They are defined by rows of cords and terminate at a row of spirals where there is available room.

The deep and wide oval opening at the breast is trimmed with rows of black cords or also braids, which extend to the horizontal bottom edge of the vest. In the lower part of the opening, black cords also form a mat design in repetitive curved lines, as well as spirals in different combinations. Further down, the right side of the breast has a decorative element made of colourful cords. The central rectangular pattern is outlined by rows of cords in yellow and orange, and is filled with blue cords forming a dense braid. Above and below, spirals of cords in green, red and orange are formed. The selvedge of the two front panels of the velvet fabric, in yellow, brown, green and orange, appears at the vertical joints with the black velvet side panels.

On the right side of the vest, part of the selvedge and the velvet fabrics on either side is covered by a sewn-on vase-shaped pocket of worn green velvet. The outline of the pocket is trimmed with rows of green and multicoloured cords with hook-shaped opposite-facing ends at the uppermost edges. In the lower part of the pocket, the open ends of the cords form a tassel. The surface of the pocket, within a frame of double cord, blue and multicoloured, is decorated with a schematized floral pattern, composed in the upper part by a heart with a double border and in the lower part by pairs of opposite-facing leaves. Four spirals are formed in the upper part of the heart. The pattern is made of silver-coloured metal-wrapped cord.

The armholes are framed by multicoloured and black cords that also run along the shoulders and the back of the neck. The bias-cut opening of the vest, from the breast to the lower side, is defined externally by kamaroues, small arches of thick black cord. Lower, the curve of the opposite-facing corners at the base of the opening of the vest has, externally, a sewn-on row of dense taller arches, also of black cord. The bottom edge of the front panels is decorated lengthwise, above the rows of black cords, with consecutive lozenges, also of black cord, terminating at spirals on their tops.

On the back side of the vest, a vertical opening extends from the waist up high on the back (height: 21.5 cm). Along the perimeter of the opening, thirteen holes with circular metallic eyelets are formed, through which a ribbon would pass, meant to be fastened in the lower part. The opening is trimmed with two rows of double cords, blue and multicouloured. Further inside, it is flanked by three interlaced rows of lozenges, formed by double cords of green and orange. Along the inner side of the pattern there extends a red cord, forming spirals at the tops of the inner row of lozenges. This decoration extends along the bottom edge of the vest. In the upper part of the vertical opening, a schematized floral pattern is composed of a lozenge at the centre, two superposed oval patterns in the upper part, and in the lower part, symmetrical leaf-shaped elements on either side of the oval shape. The outlines are formed by orange, blue and multicouloured cords, whereas the oval and leaf-shaped elements are filled with rows of green and red cords. Blue cords form a mat pattern that covers the inside of the lozenge. The entire couched decoration of the vest is fixed at various points with widely distanced handmade stitches in colours that parallel those of the patterns.

On the inside, the vest is lined with white-beige cotton fabric. Near the opening of one arm, the selvedge of the lining is discernible with coloured stripes in yellow, green and blue. Along the neck opening, there extends a reinforcing band of fabric with burgundy, red, blue, yellow and multicoloured stripes, hand-sewn with black thread. Lower, the bias-cut opening of the breast is reinforced on the inside on both sides with a piece of black velvet. The imprint of a blank-ink-stamp may be discerned on the lining. It includes an unintelligible inscription in three rows within an oval frame. Tentatively, the word YFASMATON [of fabrics] may be discerned in the upper row, and LEFKOSIA [Nicosia] in the lower row.

Height: 43 cm.

Width: 25 cm on the shoulders, 45 cm at the armpits, 37.5 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection: 13.12.1948

Provenance: Kelokedara, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 435

A man’s double-breasted vest made of black velvet on the front, red cotton at the back, and lined with thick, beige loom-woven cotton fabric.

Each front part, of black velvet, consists of two fabric panels: the two outer panels that cross to close are of a triangular shape (height: 34.5 cm, hypotenuse 39.5 cm, base: 20 cm), while the other panels complete the front parts as they reach beneath the armpit. The back of the vest consists of a single piece of red cotton fabric.

A low upright collar (maximum height: 2 cm) is made of double velvet. The triangular opening at the breast and the collar are defined by black braid that has frayed and, externally, by a black cord which, with sewing, forms consecutive kamaroues (low arches) and loops at intervals. Decorative bands from a simple handmade herringbone cross-stitch extend around the neck, along the bias-cut front opening, on the bottom edge of the vest, on the armholes and along the seams joining the front panels. Cross-stitches and straight lines from consecutive stitches that define them lengthwise are made of colourful threads in fuchsia, green, yellow and white. Along the collar, a fuchsia stitch forms a zig-zag line.

On the right side, beneath the armpit, a vase-shaped pocket is formed, of silk light-blueish fabric in the upper part and blue fabric below. Both fabrics survive partially, only on their edges, exposing the beige cotton lining. The pocket is defined all-round by a double black cord forming spirals at the corners. Further inside, there extends a row of herringbone cross-stitch in fuchsia, defined internally by continuous green stitch. A second row of white cross-stitch also follows the shape of the outline in the lower part of the pocket. A horizontal band of green cross-stitch extends along the joint of the two different fabrics of the pocket.

On the right side of the vest, internally, two buttons in diagonal arrangement correspond to two buttonholes on the left side. Another two, much smaller buttons on the left side, externally, do not correspond to buttonholes.

On the back of the vest, a vertical opening, 18 cm long, closes with a brick-red ribbon crossing through loops of black braid, that runs along the bottom edge of the vest and extends to the vertical opening. Off-white herringbone cross-stitch  extends to the back side of the armholes, to the bottom edge of the vest and to the vertical opening of the back.

Height: 39 cm.

Width: 23.5 cm on the shoulders, 38 cm at the waist (folded).

Date of entry to the Collection: 25.10.1985

Provenance: Lefkonoiko – Donation by the family of Yiannakos Hadjisavvas.

ΜΓ 37

A man’s double-breasted velvet vest, lined with beige cotton fabric.

The back consists of a piece of brown velvet fabric. Another two oblong trapezoid pieces of brown velvet are found on the sides, one each, beneath the armholes, whereas on the front, the two panels that form the sides of the breast are made of green velvet with weaved-in relief floral patterns in black, bright green and fuchsia. The floral patterns alternate in size and cover the entire surface in combination with leaves. At the centre of the flowers, green and fuchsia are used interchangeably. On the armholes and on the sides of the garment, the selvedge of the green velvet fabric is discernible with colourful vertical stripes. It appears that in this case the selvedge is used as decorative band.

The garment closes on either side. Four buttonholes on each side of the bias-cut opening are defined by gold-coloured braid with metallic threads in the upper part, and a base of golden-yellow yarn. The inner edges of the buttonholes are decorated with small tassels of the same yarn. The spherical hanging buttons, of black silk(?) thread  around an off-white fabric core are fixed to a bundle of black threads, sewn to the inside of the garment in five places.

A vase-shaped pocket on the right of the vest, on the side, consists of red felt in the upper part and brown velvet in the lower part, without inner lining. The pocket is trimmed with black braid and, on either side, with two twisted cords of yellow, red and black threads. In the upper corners of the pockets, the cords form small projections, and a small tassel at the pointed bottom end. A cord of the same type extends horizontally, at the centre of the pocket, defining the two different types of fabric.

On the front, the vest is decorated with gold-coloured braids, double or triple, of the same type as those on the buttonholes. A triple braid decorates the bias-cut opening in the upper part of the breast, where a fine cord extends lengthwise externally and, folded over, forms tiny loops. In the same section of the breast opening, purple fabric is used over a second beige fabric and, further below, a sewn-in padding of light green cardboard above the inner lining of the vest. On the purple fabric, an interlace pattern along the circumference and, further inside, consecutive spirals are formed by a cord fixed with numerous stitches. The cord is made of yarn, coated with metallic thread.  Through the couched embroidery patterns, the purple fabric may be discerned as base. This fabric and its couched decoration survive on the left side of the opening but only partially. Traces of the non-surviving spirals are discernible in the lower part of the purple fabric.

The armholes, the seams on the shoulders and the back of the neck opening, as well as the joints of the two side panels with the front panels are accentuated with black braid and a single or double cord, of the same type as that of the pocket. A braid externally and two rows of cords further inside also decorate the bottom edge of the side panels and of the back panel, and extend along a vertical opening, of a height of 23.5 cm, at the centre of the back. The opening closes with a bundle of four black threads, which criss-crosses through small loops formed by the black braid at the edge of the opening.

On the inner side of the garment, the lining consists of different panels of off-white cotton fabric. The bias-cut opening is lined with additional black woollen fabric. Around the neck, the vest is reinforced with a bright green ribbon, 2 cm wide, that advances into the upper part of the bias-cut opening.

Height: 41.5 cm.

Width: 28 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection: 12.11.1948

Provenance: Kelokedara, Pafos– Purchase.

Double-breasted waistcoat made of velvet, which is brown at the back and figured on the front with floral patterns in black, green and lilac colour. The back is made of one piece (44x52cm), while the sides of the waistcoat under the openings of the arms consist of two pieces of velvet, similar to that of the back. The back has a vertical slit (26cm) in the middle, and this opening is cross-fastened with a lace passing through loops, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (25cm); then the front piece becomes narrower downwards. There are five spherical, plaited, black buttons on either side, which are obliquely sewn on the cloth and correspond to buttonholes, thus allowing the crossing over the chest on either side.  The buttonholes are surrounded with gold braid, which decorates also the seams, the openings around the arms and the neck, also the hemline of the waistcoat. On the upper part of the chest, below the opening, golden braids formed spiral decorative patterns, which are poorly preserved. On the right side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of red broadcloth and light brown velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, and its outline is accentuated with twisted threads, which also decorate the seams of the waistcoat. The lining is made of white cotton cloth, while the neckline and the opening of the chest are reinforced with a green ribbon sewn on the inside. This is an old (late 19th/early 20th century) example of a festive waistcoat, very similar to that worn by a villager in the fair of Agios Irakleidios, in a photograph of 1895 (Max and Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter, 1895). Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv.no. 37).

Double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front part consists of two pieces of striped velvet fabric in red and yellow colours. There are six buttons made of silk cord on each side. These correspond to eight buttonholes decorated with black soutache with tassels.

Men's double-breasted vest. The front part consists of two pieces of grey silk fabric, while the back is made of a single piece of black velvet. On the right front side, there is a vase-shaped pocket outlined with orange, yellow, green and red threads. The vest is fastened across the chest with six buttons. It is adorned all around with black braid, which also surrounds the buttonholes, while a wide sewn-on decorative trim accentuates the neck opening.

Men’s double-breasted vest (yelekkin) made of black velvet. The front part consists of two pieces that cross over the chest on both sides, with rows of black buttons arranged diagonally. There are eight buttons on one side, while only six are preserved on the other side. It features rich sewn-on decoration made of grey cord, forming spiral and lattice patterns in different combinations, including: a dense composition of spirals creating a wide band around the neck opening, various spiral patterns at the openings that correspond to the buttons, lattice pattern at the base of the buttons, and a simpler design in the form of a series of lozenges around the bottom edge of the vest. Internally, the opening of the neck/chest is reinforced with braid. On the right side of the chest, there is colorful triangular embroidered pattern.

The sarka (waistcoat) with a deep opening at the bust and long sleeves, is made of black velvet and shows rich decoration of applied (sewn-on) gold cords.