Benaki Museum

Inv. No. EA 1885: Silver-gilt earrings, of a solid cast heart and a hanging filigree drop with a tiny suspended toutouni (spherical filigree bead). The earrings are secured onto the ear by means of a wire hook fastening. The bottom of the hook is affixed to the lower end of the heart, while its opposite, bending end passes through the pierced ear lobe and locks into a small hole at the top of the heart. The filigree drop passes through the hook and hangs from the base of the fastening. Length: 5,7 cm. Published in: Hadjimichali 1983, 397m fig. 426; Ελληνικά Κοσμήματα (Greek Jewels) 1999, fig. 286.

This type of earrings is quite common, and there are many variants in terms of its upper element, which is often a tiny rosette (for similar examples see Pieridou 1980, table LIVb, d; Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 192-93).

Inv. No. EA 1884: Silver-gilt pendant comprising a chain of spherical filigree beads (toutounia), and a filigree cross. The boards of the cross consist of four drop-shaped elements, like those of the earrings Inv. No. EA 1885, soldered to a central rosette-shaped part, with a blue stone in the middle. Red beads are affixed at the angles between the drop-shaped elements, three of which have tiny wire beads hanging from their ends. The fourth element is connected, through a ring, to the chain, which consists of 19 toutounia alternating with coral-coloured beads. Dimensions of the cross: 7x6,5 cm. Length of chain: 32,5 cm. Publications: Hadjimichali 1983, 397, fig. 426. Ελληνικά Κοσμήματα (Greek Jewels) 1999, fig. 286.

The cross with the toutounia is one of the most characteristic types of traditional Cypriot jewellery. Several examples are preserved in museums and private collections (see i.e. Tarsouli 1955, table 19 opposite p. 216; Pieridou 1980, table LVd; Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 199 figs. 183, 184 · The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 180 figs. 183b; Mazarakis-Ainian - Iakovou 1995, 26; Papademetriou 2000, 72).

Costume of an older man (dress Inv. No. 247), comprising a vraka (Inv. No. EE 3835), a chemise (Inv. No. EE 3836), a zostra (Inv. No. EE 3837), a straw hat (Inv. No. EE 3838) and po(d)ines (Inv. No. EE 3839). The costume was donated to the Benaki Museum by “Demetra”, the Rural Local Union of Lysi, Cyprus, in 1973.

Inv. No. EE 3835: Black vraka of loom-woven cotton fabric, with a cut similar to that of the young man’s breeches. Each leg of the vraka consists of a fabric panel folded and joined along the inner side to the central piece, the vakla (sella). At the lower end the leg openings, 15 cm. wide, have three rows of plain stitches along their edges. At the outer part of the side pieces, two rows of stitches form a decorative band from top to bottom that gives the impression of a seam. The sella is made of two fabric panels with a vertical joint at the centre, reaching from the front to the waist at the back, where there is a slit 15 cm. long. At the waist the fabric is folded to form a hem, through which passes the vrakozonin, a white cotton lace, 1 cm. wide, braided in a fishbone pattern. The vrakozonin was used for tying the vraka at the waist; it was passed through the hem with the help of a wooden accessory, the vrakorechtis. The vraka is prosiasti (pleated), yet its pleats are not as dense as those of the young man’s breeches. Dimensions: Length of vraka: 73 cm. maximum width: 143 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3836: Grey shirt made of alatzia, with a low upright collar and long sleeves with cuffs that close with a white button. The single-piece back is joined at the sides to the two front pieces. A slit opening, 11 cm. long, is formed at the bottom of these side seams. The nomitis below the collar is made of a separate piece. A vertical opening along the chest closes with six white buttons up to the base of the neck. The sleeves are formed of a single piece with a seam at the inner side of the arm. All seams are made of black thread stitches. Dimensions: Length: 75 cm. Width: 57 cm. Length of sleeves: 57,5 cm. Width of collar: 3 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3837: Zostra (waist sash) made of black woollen dimity. The only decorative element is a red line at the narrow sides, near the edges. Warp threads extend into simple fringes. Across one of the long sides the sash ends simply at the selvage, while on the opposite side the fabric folds into a narrow hem sewn with black thread in a fly stitch. Length: 232 cm. Width: 46 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3838: Wide-brimmed straw hat. A thin band of black fabric, 3 cm. wide, encircles the brim and the base of the projecting crown, which covers the head. Height: 9 cm. Diameter: 37 cm.

The straw hat made its appearance in Cyprus at the beginning of the British period; yet, as it accompanied European-style dress, it was more common in urban centres than in the countryside, where the prevailing types of headcover were the fez with a headscarf or the headscarf alone. The hat became rather popular during the 20th century.

Straw hats and European costumes are depicted in a photo by J.P. Foscolo, portraying the staff of the Ottoman Bank in Larnaca in 1895 (Foscolo 1992). Straw hats worn in combination with breeches are shown in photos dated to the last decade of the 19th century (Ohnefalsch-Richter 1994, tables 31: 1, 33: 1). The combination with breeches and boots is also met in a 1920 photograph, taken in Mesaoria (Michalopoulou-Charalambous 1993, 207).

Inv. No. EE 3839: Black podines (boots) of tanned he-goat skin, with a lining of yellowish sheepskin. At the upper end the leather folds outwards, forming a wide light-coloured band with a narrow hem of black leather, sewn with a zigzag stitch.

At the front end the toe box of the podina is slightly raised. Each boot consists of the following pieces: the front (the promouttin), sewn at the sides to the separate piece of the heel counter, a single piece that covers the calf, with a vertical seam along the outer side, and an additional triangular piece at the bottom of the calf and over the ankle, again at the outer side. All around the heel counter, a seam of stitches develops parallel to the joint. Overlaid pieces of sole leather form a thick sole without a heel. 14 iron flathead nails (rizes) made by a blacksmith are inserted at the tread. Their bent ends are seen all around the top of the sole. At the front of the sole there are three button-shaped nails with thin incisions on their round heads. A light-coloured seam extends at the joint of the sole to the boot leather above.

Instead of leather straps, the podines have a brown wool-knitted lace with a loop at one end, through which the other end passes. The lace is tightened by pulling. At the front part of the boots, down at the foot, decorative imprinted circles with a mesh design are arranged in three rows of five, six (at the centre) and five circles respectively.

The podines of the costume are entirely unworn. In Lysi, as in almost all the villages of Cyprus, there were skarpari(d)es, who made shoes, and tsagkari(d)es, who made podines (mentioned by name from 1885 to 1953 in: Xystouris 1980, 121). Height: 45 cm. Length of foot: 28,5 cm.

Traditional costume of a young man from Lysi (dress Inv. No. 246), comprising a chemise (Inv. No. EE 3830), a yelekkin (Inv. No. EE 3831), a zostra (Inv. No. EE 3832), a vraka (Inv. No. EE 3833) and po(d)ines (Inv. No.EE 3834). Donated to the Benaki Museum by “Demetra”, the Rural Local Union of Lysi, Cyprus, in 1973.

Inv. No. EE 3830: Festive chemise, made of woven striped, taiston silk fabric (pouroudjioukkin) in an off-white colour. The back and the front sides consist of a single piece, with vertical woven stripes. The upper front part, which is divided in the middle by a vertical opening, has an additional second piece of fabric with its stripes arranged in an oblique position, so that they converge to the centre. The additional piece, rectangular and cut obliquely at the bottom corners, ends in a sewn-on band of ready-made lace (edging). Similar lace adorns both sides of the chest opening, which closes with six off-white buttons. Two more buttons hold the lapels of the collar. A triangle, formed centrally at the back of the collar, is also fastened with a button. The sleeves are attached to a separate piece of fabric at the shoulders, the nomite, as well as to the front side of the chemise. They are long, with cuffs bearing two buttonholes each. The length of the chemise is increased by a piece of fabric – simple, with no stripes - added to the bottom. A square piece of fabric of the same type has been added to the armpits for ease of movement. Length of the chemise: 72 cm. Width at the shoulders: 36 cm. Length of sleeves: 50 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3831: Festive yelekkin, made of black velvet. Its crossover opening is fastened on both sides with 11 and 12 black buttons (later addition) respectively, sewn in an oblique arrangement with coloured threads. The edges and all the openings end in a thick, braided blue cord, double around the neck and along the crossover opening, where it forms loops corresponding to the buttons. At the back, a vertical opening is cross fastened with two ribbons, green and red, passing through loops made of blue cord.

The yelekkin is richly decorated. Twisted coloured threads, orange, blue, pink, green, yellow and purple, trim all the openings and the waist round, forming bands of very simple linear patterns and stylized floral designs. Two large, sewn-on pockets, one on each side of the chest, are decorated with a three-stranded tree of green and pink thread. The pockets, bordered by a black cord, are also adorned with scroll patterns of orange and red thread. The three-stranded tree is repeated above the vertical opening at the back. The vest is lined with white cotton cloth, bearing all the coloured threads of decoration.

This vest, although of a relatively later date (velvet vests of this type were sewn and decorated by tailors in Nicosia), repeats the design of preceding Mesaoria vests, made either of velvet or more commonly of woven plaid fabric. Its decoration reflects the similarly exuberant decoration and the colourfulness of the oldest surviving specimens, yet lacking their delicate craftsmanship and elegance (for cross vests of the last decades of 19th century, see Papademetriou 1991, 108-110 figs. 73-75; Michalopoulou-Charalambous 1993, 204-205 · The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 202, 205 fig. 216, 207 figs. 218-219). However, although it is a simplified imitation that becomes almost simplistic, this vest undoubtedly remains in the context of tradition, showcasing a strong festive character. Dimensions: 39x40 cm.

Inv.No. EE 3832: Black woven zostra (waist sash) made of wool. Its only decorative element is a deep red stripe in the weft, close to the narrow sides’ edges. The threads of the warp extend into untied fringes. The zostra was wrapped around the waist, over the vraka (breeches, baggy pantaloons). Dimensions: Length: 240 cm. Width: 42 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3833: Pleated vraka, made of black woven cotton fabric. It consists of the two leg parts and a pleated middle part, the vakla (sheep tail and figurately speaking the sella tis vrakas) or sellovratzia, of two fabric panels joined lengthwise with a vertical seam reaching up to the top, where there is a slit 15 cm. just below the waist, at the front of the garment. The side pieces are joined to the middle piece along their entire length at the front and the back, while at the bottom they have an opening of 16 cm. for the legs. The edge of each opening is adorned with a band of black thread stitches, forming a zigzag line between horizontal ones. At the waist the fabric is folded outwards, and through the hem passes a knitted white cotton cord, the vrakozonin, by means of which the breeches are held in place, forming dense folds. The vraka is in excellent condition and looks unworn. Dimensions: Length: 75 cm. maximum width: 94 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3834: Fragkopodines skarparisimes (boots made by a shoemaker), black and reaching up to the knee. There is a distinction between right and left foot. The soles are sewn, and the low heel has a nailed rubber band with the logo of the firm Continental encircling an upright horse. The soles are wider than the insole, and their projecting contour is decorated with incisions. The boots have a rounded toe box; the front part, the promouttin, extends with a vertical tongue-shaped element onto the shaft, while its sides are joined to the heel counter. The seams are decorated with stitches forming a zigzag line. Linear patterns of stitches also adorn the pieces of the shaft, which is further decorated with horizontal parallel ribs, five in the middle and three at the top, with the last one at the top edge.

An additional leather strip, fixed along the vertical seam from top to bottom, is decorated with a series of geometric designs, consisting again of stitches. Strips of leather, 3 cm wide, are sewn at the inner side of the top edge, forming loops, through which pass the kolanakia (straps). The latter are 2 cm. wide, with a buckle at the end and many holes with white ppoulia (sequins). A smaller strap bearing holes is nailed with a metal ppoulin at the inner side of the straps, to close the buckle. These straps were tied to better secure the boot to the foot. The specific boots are new, unworn. Dimensions: Height of boot: 42 cm. Length of foot: 28,5 cm.  

Similar boots are shown in a 1925-1926 photo, taken in a village of Mesaoria. They are worn by a young man also wearing breeches, combined with a European shirt and jacket (see Michalopoulou-Charalambous 1993, 206).

This later female costume (dress Inv. No. 245) comprises a dress (EE 3827), a tsemberi (EE 3828) and a pair of stivalia (EE 3829). Donated by “Demetra”, the Rural Local Union of Lysi, Cyprus, in 1973.

Inv. No. EE 3827: Dress made of European stamped fabric, with delicate pattern of five consecutive tiny triangles, repeated in two parallel rows. The white-, red- and yellow-coloured motifs appear scattered against a brown background. The dress consists of a separate, wide skirt made of three fabric panels, and a fitted top with narrow horizontal pleats forming a vertical decorative band at the chest. A vertical opening, formed along one of its sides, closes with clips. The dress has a round collar of the same fabric, and long sleeves with cuffs. The joint between the skirt and the top is covered by a belt of the same fabric.

The design of the dress follows pre-1950s’ fashion styles and denotes European influence. Such dresses were made by professional seamstresses, while simple traditional costumes were sewn and embroidered at home, by women themselves. Length of dress: 120 cm. Length and width of sleeves: 76x0,5 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3828: Tsemberi (headscarf) of kouroukla (thin cotton fabric), with stamped decoration on a brown background. The all-around print, the kkenarin, consists of a repeating floral pattern, formed with the use of oblong wooden moulds. The corners are also adorned with a milia pattern, a neoclassical-type wreath with leaves and flowers. The outline of the designs, the kara-kalemi, is black, with red and yellow as complementary colours, printed with different moulds. The design, which resembles that of other stamped headscarves in the Benaki Museum Collection, remained in use at the workshop of Kakoullis brothers until 2004.

The tsemberi is trimmed all around with continuous kamares (arches) of green thread, and knots of white thread. Dimensions: 70x70 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3829: Stivalia, pair of female black boots, made by a skarparis (shoemaker) (for their way of manufacture, see Ionas 2001, 471, 477). Their toe box is round, and their heel is low and curved (“Louis”), made of overlaid pieces of sole leather. Their shaft widens upwards, reaching up to the middle of the calf. They are fastened with 13 round leather buttons, arranged in a vertical row at the side of the shaft. Each boot consists of six pieces: two at the front, covering the toes and the upper part of the foot, one at the heel counter, two at the sides of the shaft and a strip bearing the buttonholes. The joints are machine-sewn, decorated with stitches and rows of small holes. Machine-made stitches form straight and zigzag or wavy lines, as well as stylized anthems. Two leather strips, sewn vertically along the entire front and back of the shaft, protrude at its upper end. They are decorated with stitches, forming consecutive rhombuses bordered by lines. Prokkouthkia (small nails) are employed at the heels.

The stivalia are accompanied by a small metal hook with an elongated shaft, curved into a loop at its back end. The hook, 11 cm. long, was used to fasten the boots. Height of boot: 36 cm. Width of top opening: 25 cm.

 Incomplete female costume (Inv. No. 127), consisting only of a skirt (EE 1588) and a sarka (EE 1422). Donated by Fokion Tanos, Cairo 1948. Publication: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 108, fig. 93b.

Inv. No. EE 1588: Skirt/foustani (dress) of an urban costume, made of silk fabric (sattakrouta) in bright orange colour, with three horizontal bands at intervals. Each band comprises six stripes, three narrow and three wider, in light green, lilac and purple colours (from top to bottom). The skirt consists of five fabric panels, each 42-44 cm. wide, gathered in rich folds at the waist. The lower part of the hem has a lining of white cotton fabric sewn with red and black thread in a running stitch, while the edge is trimmed in the round by a black cord.

With the addition of the bodice, the skirt acquired the form of a dress. Most of the bodice remained covered, thus it was made of white cotton fabric. Its back consists of two pieces and has a vertical opening all the way down, while the front is made of a single piece. At the front, the cotton fabric was used as a lining for an imported silk fabric, with wide vertical and horizontal bands containing flowers in blue, green, yellow, gold, orange, and light blue colours. The deep opening at the bust leaves most of the chest uncovered. This is probably where the shirt would be visible, while the sarka would cover the bust.

At the waist the bodice has a sewn-on band of black velvet, 7 cm. wide, with fastening strings at its ends. Another such string is found behind the neck. At the back below the waist, in the extension of the back opening, the skirt has a slit of 24 cm. Total length of dress: 128 cm. Length of skirt: 88 cm. Width of bust: 38 cm.

Inv. No. EE 1422: Sarka, short waistcoat made of imported silk fabric, decorated with a woven design of lilac flowers in a bouquet, tied at the base with a green ribbon. This pattern alternates with a similar one in reverse colours (the bouquet has green flowers, and the ribbon is purple). The back consists of a single piece, continuing to the front. The sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, narrow down to their edge, with an additional strip lengthwise. Movement is facilitated by the addition of two diagonally joined, triangular pieces of fabric at the armpits. Side seams of the garment are connected to the seams on the inner side of the sleeves. The ends of the front pieces are joined above the waist, forming a V-shaped opening at the chest. This opening, as well as the sleeves, are decorated with a lilac tasselled cord, while a blue-green cord trims the edge of the waist round. A beige fabric with a green line at its base adorns the low collar. The whole sarka is lined with white cotton cloth.

The silk fabric has been arranged and sewn in such a way, so that at the front side and on one sleeve the bouquets of the design appear inverted, while at the back and on the other sleeve they are upright. Length: 36 cm. Width at the shoulders: 45 cm. Width of sleeves: 16 cm. Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 150, fig. 129.

Female costume (dress cat. no. 215) comprising a trachilia (collar, EE 3340), a skirt (EE 3341), a sarka (EE 3342) and a fez (EE 3343).

Inv. No. EE 3340: Trachilia (collar) made of silk woven, taiston fabric in the natural colour of silk, with wide and narrow bands in the warp. It consists of two strips 19-20 cm. wide, joined lengthwise at one end to form a square, leaving an opening 75 x 35 cm. The trachilia is ​​adorned with silk-thread, needle-made lace, again in the natural colour of silk, with delicate floral motifs. The trachilia is usually ​​accompanied by matching sleeve cuffs, maniketta (see i.e. Papademetriou 1995, 153). A similar trachilia and sleeve cuffs are shown in: The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 87. Publication: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 77, fig. 40.

Inv. No. EE 3341: Long, wide skirt made of sattakrouta (woven silk fabric), dyed in bright orange colour. It consists of four sewn fabric panels, each 48 cm. wide. Stripes are formed in the weft at intervals. These are arranged in three groups, each consisting of three narrow and three wider stripes, in light green, lilac and deep purple colours (top to bottom). In the middle of the skirt, a sewn-on band of stamped cotton fabric is decorated with maroon patterns on a beige background. A black braid of woven wool trims the hem. The skirt has undergone conservation treatment, including lining, as it was damaged. Apart from the colours, it resembles the skirt of the costume EE 1590 (cat. no. 91). Length: 99 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3342: Sarka, short waistcoat made of black felt, with a low upright collar and narrow, long sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders. The seam at their inner side is covered by a double cord. The back consists of a single trapezoidal piece of fabric, 41 cm. and 31 cm. wide at the top and bottom respectively. A seam at the shoulders joins it to the two front pieces, which have a maximum width of 28 cm. The front pieces are joined down at the waist, leaving a vertical opening above. Under each armpit, triangular pieces of fabric, joined at their base, offer ease of movement. The sarka is richly adorned with goldwork: the edges of the chest opening and the waist round, as well as the collar are trimmed by a double cord of gold thread and a wide sewn-on band with scroll patterns of twisted gold thread. The latter is repeated at the edges of the sleeves. A large paisley adorns both front pieces, right and left, while the back is decorated with a vertical, stylized floral motif. All edges are bordered by lace knitted with gold thread.

Although it is similar to the waistcoat EE 1423 of the costume cat. no. 91, this sarka has a more extravagant decoration. The paisley pattern is repeated in other waistcoat specimens (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 107, figs. 92, 137, 151). Length of sleeves: 45 cm. Width of sleeves: 13-16 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3343: Fez of red felt without lining, externally covered by a black tassel sewn to the top of it. Fringes made of black silk are scattered around the front half, where they are held in place by fkiora, lace buds and leaves of green and white silk thread. The stems of flowers, emerging from a thin strip attached to the fez, are fixed internally by means of a thin fabric. Over the back part of the fez falls the 58 cm. long tassel. Height of fez: 10 cm. Diameter (opening): 18 cm.

Fezzes with fkiora are depicted in photographs of the early 20th century, while a wreath made of pearls and silk thread is kept in the National Historical Museum in Athens (The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 80-83). Similar is the garland of Iouliani Voditsianou (19th century), currently on display at Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios House in Nicosia (for all the above, see Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 150-152).

Female costume (dress cat. no. 170) which comprises all the main dress elements of the Amalia-type costume: a chemise (EE 952), a skirt (EE 1590), a sarka (EE 1423) and a fez (EE 2352).

Inv. No. EE 952: Silk chemise, made of loom woven taiston fabric (with puckered bands created lengthwise by warp threads of two different tensions). The chemise is long and consists of a single panel, 52 cm. wide, forming the front part and the back, as well as an oblique trapezoidal piece of fabric, set under each armpit and widening downwards. At the lower part of the garment, triangular gores (loxes) set at the sides add extra width. Their joint (kollisi), like all seams, is done by a fly stitch. The finish at the hem and at the ends of the sleeves is ruched. The sleeves, sewn vertically to the body, are joined by a seam at the inner side. The rounded neckline has a vertical opening of 19 cm., which is trimmed with smili (needle) lace, and closes with two loops. The initials "M P I", obviously of the donor Marika P. Ioannou, are embroidered with red and orange thread in a chain stitch, low at the front.  Length: 128 cm. Length and width of sleeves: 47x26 cm. Publication: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 76-77, figs 37, 38.

This is a representative type of Cypriot female chemise, as known from the oldest surviving specimens of the second half of the 19th century. According to the categorisation established by the costume maker Ioanna Papantoniou, this type is associated with the most common category of modern Greek chemise, having local variants (Papantoniou 1978, 8-9, dr. 37-43; Papantoniou 1979, 569-71, dr. 3-8).

Inv. No. EE 1590: Ankle-length skirt of woven silk fabric (sattakrouta) in yellow/gold colour, with horizontal parallel stripes in the weft at intervals. The stripes are arranged in three groups of six - three narrower and three wider - in purple, lilac and light green colours (top to bottom). The edge is trimmed all around with sewn-on black, ready-made lace, followed above by whitish lace, and a thin red cord a little higher. The cord has been fixed with a running stitch, while the lace bands are sewn only on the upper side, with the bottom side remaining unattached. The garment ends in a simple hem.

The skirt consists of five panels 44-46 cm. wide, according to the width of the loom reed. The panels are joined at the inner side with a simple running stitch. Creases are formed around the waist, where a band made of stamped fabric is sewn like a belt. The band is adorned with brown and red flowers on a beige background. A second piece of fabric, beige monochrome with creases, is fixed internally around the waist. The skirt closes with two hook-and-eye fasteners sewn on the stamped fabric band, above an opening of 12 cm., trimmed with a cord of red, yellow and blue threads (for the costume as an ensemble, see Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 76 fig. 38). Length: 98 cm.

The locally made, all-silk striped skirts are a special feature of the urban costume of Nicosia. Dyes were prepared by women themselves using vegetable matters or ready-made paints. Lilac (vazani, namely the colour of the eggplant) was obtained from wild blackberries, green from walnut shells and pieces of the banana tree trunk, rose from onion peels, yellow from chrysanthemums and daisies (on the colours and the methods of dyeing silk threads, see Papademetriou 1995, 87, 89).

Similar extant skirts in various colours date to the end of the 19th or the beginning of the 20th centuries (see examples in the collections of the Cyprus Folk Art Museum and the Lyceum Club of Greek Women in Athens. See also Papademetriou 1995, 89, 152; Papademetriou 2000, 70; Papantoniou 1996, 100).

Inv. No. EE 1423: Sarka of black felt, with a low upright collar and long sleeves. The V-shaped, vertical opening at the chest closes at the bottom with two hook-and-eye clips. The back consists of a single piece of fabric, which is joined with the front pieces across the sides and shoulders. The sleeves, vertically sewn to the shoulders with a seam at the inner side of the arm, become slightly narrower downwards. Under each armpit, two diagonally joined, triangular pieces of fabric have been added for ease of movement. The collar consists of a separate piece.

The edges of the garment, as well as the side seams that continue the seams of the sleeves, are embellished with two cords of gold thread. The whole collar, as well as the fringes of the front opening and the waist and sleeve bottom edges, are decorated with a sewn-on band of twisted silk threads, forming scroll-like motifs and linear patterns. A large paisley of twisted gold threads adorns each of the lower front corners. On the back, variations of the same pattern form a triangular ornament, which extending scrolls on both sides of the side seams. The back is lined with blue fabric, while the collar and the front with crimson. Dimensions: Length: 41 cm. Width on the shoulders: 37 cm.  and at the lower part: 34 cm. Length of sleeves: 47 cm.

Inv. No EE 2352: Fez made of red felt in the shape of a cup, with a simple cut in the round. A tassel (flokkos) of black silk threads passes through the top. It is sewn on the inside of the fez, with a small sequin decorating the point of junction. Height: 17 cm. Diameter (opening): 27 cm. Length of tassel: 49 cm.

Similar examples of simple red fezzes can be found in the Museum of Folk Art in Yeroskipou, in the Museum of Folk Art in Limassol, as well as in other museums and collections.

Inv. No. EE 1589: Foustanin, cotton dress made of striped alatzia fabric. Red, green, yellow, orange, and black stripes are formed in the weft against a white background. The garment comprises a wide skirt and a separate bodice, which are joined at the waist. The back consists of a single piece of fabric, with a seam at the back of the shoulders. At the front, two separate pieces, sewn to the sides, form a deep opening, which leaves most of the chest uncovered and continues with a vertical slit reaching just below the waist. The opening closes with three hook-and-eye clasps. The sleeves are narrow and long, with the stripes of the fabric arranged in a horizontal position. Their edge is adorned with a sewn-on a black cord. Similar decoration is found in the middle of the skirt, covering the joint of the upper and the lower parts, and at the hem. For ease of movement, under the armpits there is an additional square piece of alatzia consisting of two small, diagonally joined triangles. The side seams on the bodice and the sleeves are covered by a double cord, straight and zigzagged. The opening of the chest is adorned with brown ready-made lace. The entire bodice and the sleeves are lined with white cotton fabric.

The long skirt consists of two pieces joined in width, without matching of the stripes, with the seam covered by a black cord. The only vertical joint is formed in the extension of the breast opening.

The hem is reinforced with a strip of cotton fabric, 35 cm. wide.

Similar dresses were worn in rural areas of Cyprus, such as Mesaoria and Paphos, in combination with vratzia, namely baggy trousers (see for example Tarsouli 1955, "Harvester of Paphos", opposite p. 384; The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 152-57; Papademetriou 1991, 106 fig. 70).

Dimensions: Length of the dress: 130 cm. Length of skirt: 92 cm. Length of sleeves: 45 cm.

Donated by Fokion Tanos in 1948.

Inv. No. EE 4326: Female, festive sayia from Karpasia, made of thick cotton thread worked on the doulappin (spinning wheel). The garment is adorned with whitework embroidery and threaded beads. It was worn over a chemise.

The back and front parts consist of a single straight fabric panel, seamless at the shoulders. At the front, a vertical slit extends all the way down. A deep opening is also formed at the bust, leaving a large part of the chest uncovered. Just below the chest, the sayia closes with six knitted loops, which corresponded to now missing buttons. A little lower an additional oblique piece of fabric is sewn on each side, widening downwards. Adding these gores served the cross-over fastening of the garment at the front. Two gores have also been added to the sides, where slit openings 34 cm. high allow ease of movement. A small patch of thin cotton cloth has been added at the end of one of these openings.

The long and narrow sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, have two additional triangular pieces joined diagonally below the armpit to facilitate movement. The two sleeves have a bottom opening measuring 22 and 23 cm., respectively, while in their entire length they are lined with white cotton fabric. The back part below the neck is also lined with white cotton fabric; the same applies for the part surrounding the chest opening, which is embellished with whitework embroidery in delicate scrolls or zigzag patterns, enriched with threaded red and green petroues (beads). The same embroidery covers the seams of the sleeves at the shoulders and, in a thinner band, the shistres of the sayia, namely the side openings. Threaded beads are also employed at the opening of the sleeves. Particularly interesting is the embroidery at the back of the hem: three narrow embroidered bands with threaded beads are defined by lourouthkia (thin stripes) of siettarin-coloured (light brown) thread. Two more brown stripes, 0.05 m. wide, border the decoration of the fringe.

In her description of Karpasia embroideries, Angeliki Pieridou also mentions dress decoration: “The same embroideries with beads also adorned women’s clothes, white sayies. They were woven using the thick cotton thread worked on the doulappi, and the embroidery, which was usually arched, was limited to the edges, which were easy to embroider on the loom. The embroidery on the chest, the sleeves and the side openings was needlework with threaded beads for [further] decoration" (Pieridou 1980, 28).

See a similar sayia in: Ohnefalsch-Richter 1994, table 65: 2; Papademetriou 2000, 110 cat. 1.

Length of the sayia: 113cm. Length of sleeves: 58 cm.

It belonged to Angeliki Pieridou and was donated to the Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pieridou in 1981.

Inv. No. EE 1622: Sayia made of alatzia with white cotton background and stripes in blue, light blue and light brown colours in the warp. Brown stripes also run through the weft at intervals, thus creating plaid. At the back of the hem there are denser plaids with brown and blue horizontal stripes. The sayia has a small upright collar, a deep narrow opening at the chest and a vertical slit all the way down. At the base of the chest opening, it closes with two knitted buttons, one red/reddish-brown and the other yellow/honey-coloured.

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric panel, which extends to the front. Two gores (loxes) have been added from the base of the chest opening to the hem, one on each side, made of the same fabric. Similar gores on both sides of the garment’s lower part bear the side openings, each 0.24 m long. The sleeves, long and vertical, are fixed to the shoulders with their stripes arranged in a horizontal position. They end in an opening 0.16 m. long, lined internally with a piece of the same alatzia. The usual square piece of fabric has been added under the armpits to facilitate movement.

In term of colours, the rich decoration of the sayia agrees with the woven fabric. The finish of the collar and of the chest opening, extending to the upper part of the vertical opening, consists of a cord braided with honey-coloured and reddish-brown threads. A similar cord adorns the opening of a small pocket on the right side of the chest, the inside of which is lined with purple silk. At the side openings and the sleeves, the cord also includes green thread. Parallel to the cord, a zigzag line is formed of black thread. This simple design is the only decorative element at the lower part of the vertical slit and at the hem.

More elaborate decoration encloses the opening of the chest, which is trimmed with sewn-on green and rose cord forming a wavy line. A zigzag line of reddish-brown and metal threads runs internally along the green cord. All around the opening, lattice-filled triangles embroidered with reddish-brown silk alternate with black triangles, of which only traces are preserved. Small lozenges around the collar, made of black thread, are also worn. A zigzag line, with lozenges on every other of its points, borders the seam of the sleeves. The line consists of twisted metallic and black threads. Black thread, alternating at intervals with reddish-brown one, is also employed for the fly stitch of the seam.

The sayia has no lining. Only the part under the appliqué decoration, all around the chest opening, is lined with the same alatzia.

Embroideries similar in patterns and colours, characterise many surviving sayies from Karpasia (see for example Papademetriou 1991, 100-101 fig. 64, 65, 114-116; The Cypriot Costumes 1999, 170-173, 176-177). Donated by Fokion Tanos in 1948.

Length of the sayia: 116 cm. Length of sleeves: 50 cm.