Vratzin

 Inv. No. EE 4083: Vratzin (long and loose pantaloon worn as underwear) made of cotton. The lower ends, the povratzia, are made of thick cotton loom-woven cloth, covered with embroideries. The vratzin consists of seven pieces: one long, curving piece for the crotch, two similar pieces for the front and the back of the upper part of the garment - these also extend lower while becoming narrower -, two similar pieces for the sides, that cover the area of the thighs at the front and the back, and the two embroidered povratzia at the lower ends. At the upper edge the fabric is folded and sewn, so as for the white cotton vrakozonin (belt) to pass through the hem and secure the vratzin by tying around the waist. The multicoloured embroideries of the povratzia are arranged in 17 vertical bands featuring consecutive stylized robust floral motifs, made by applying single stiches, regular or long-armed cross stiches, stem stiches and other types of stiches for solid filling. The aforementioned vertical bands alternate with 16 narrower bands, which consist of white open-work embroideries with a deep red or brown frame alternately. The colours of the embroideries vary: brown, green, yellow/golden, light blue, red/deep red. A stem stich made of red silk thread extends along and accentuates the joints between the two vertical edges of each embroidered piece and the thinner fabric of the vratzin. Similar stiches are found along other joints at the lower part of the garment and are also used for decorative purposes. At their lower ends, the povratzia are tightened around the ankles by a girdle, while at their inner side there is an opening which appears to have featured a button fastening. The buttons do not survive. It is worth noting that the povratzia, made by a thicker embroidered cloth, were preserved for a longer time than the rest of the underwear and, when the latter perished, they were sewn onto a new one. Height: 90 cm., Width at the waist: 85 cm. Embroidered surface: 18x36 cm.