Turkish Cypriot dress The period of Ottoman Rule (1571-1878) The period of British Rule (1878-1960)
When the Ottoman Turks conquered the island, they brought with them the garments of their homeland. In the course of time, the Ottoman dress was transformed according to dress reforms in Turkey from the 16th to the 20th centuries. The Turks had their origin in the steppes of Eastern Central Asia, where they first lived as pastoral nomads and horse riders; thus their dress was adapted to life on the move, and was suitable for riding, comprising loose trousers and a variety of coats, waistcoats and jackets open in front and layered over a shirt. Open garments were closed with waist-sashes that also served as receptacles for personal accessories or weapons. The wearing of many layers, arranged so as to reveal the materials of all garments, had always been a main characteristic of ceremonial or festive dress and formed a spiritual concept deeply rooted in Turkish culture. The tradition of dressing in layers is considered to have been the outcome of adjustment to environmental conditions, at a time before the permanent settlement of the Turks. In addition to their nomadic past and relevant beliefs and habits, the interaction of the Turks with other cultures played a significant role in the formation of their clothing. Iconographic documents of the 12th to 15th centuries indicate that the old Turkish costume was inspired to a great extent by Persian costume. In fact, as it evolved, Ottoman dress responded to various external influences: although contact with lands to the east played a significant role, it also shows an affinity with the simple Byzantine shapes. Furthermore, contact with Western Europe is also visible in dress: despite the fact that Turkish textiles were renowned for their quality and designs, Ottomans used velvet, silk and woollen fabrics imported from Italy, France and Britain, in making their garments.
Donisthorpe Donne: A Turkish Cypriot Worker, 1881. Severis, R. C., Travelling Artists in Cyprus, 1700-1960, London: Phillip Wilson Publishers Limited, p.159, figure 181.
Published with the permission of Costas and Rita Severis Foundation.
A Cypriot (Turk?). Drawing by Antoine-Alphonse Montfort (1837). R.F.7538, Département des Arts Graphiques, Musée du Louvre. Cliché des Musées Nationaux, Paris.