dress

ΜΓ 806 Long and long-sleeved foustanin of imported pique fabric with blue stripes alternating with broader bands that feature tiny purple patterns, defined on either side by a red line.   The dress comprises a bodice and a long wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. At the front, the bodice consists of two 30 cm-tall panels, one on either side of the breast, with seams on the shoulders. They extend underneath the armpits, to the back (total width: 27 cm), where they are joined to two bias-cut strips of fabric (25 x 6 cm) flanking the central six-sided gore (width: 30 cm on the shoulders, 8 cm at the waist, above the waistband). The stripes on the bias-cut strips are placed diagonally as opposed to the central gore with the vertical stripes. This creates a pleasant variety which brings out the design. The joints of the different pieces are meticulously sewn by hand. The bodice is lined with various pieces of fine beige cotton fabric, ready-made, probably hand-sewn.   A round neckline with a simple hem features an opening that extends vertically to the centre, up to the waist, at a height of 29 cm. The opening continues underneath the waistband, to the skirt, at a height of 10.5 cm. A ruffle made of an added, bias-cut, slightly gathered band of fabric, 5.5 cm wide, consisting of three pieces on either side, runs along both sides of the breast, at 2.5 cm underneath the shoulders, on either side of the opening. The ruffle is bias-cut and its edge is hemmed. Its two strips converge at the bottom into a V shape.   The opening closes with five hooks: one at the base of the neck, a second at the beginning of the ruffle, another two hooks on the waistband and one slightly up. The opening is hemmed across its sides: the hem is broader up to the waistband, narrowing down from there on.   The long sleeves, joined to the body in a curve, consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Their finish is achieved with an added ruffle of different, bias-cut pieces of fabric (two or three), 2.5-3 cm in height.   The 4.5 cm-tall waistband consists of different pieces of fabric with horizontal stripes.   The skirt is made of three panels, 64 cm wide each. In the upper part of the skirt, underneath the waistband, dense pleats are held in place with a straight basting stitch. At this point, the skirt is slightly folded inside and reinforced with added bands: one is of the same fabric as the dress, and appears to contain a strip from a different fabric, beige with a gold stripe. The skirt has a hem, 1.5-2 cm in height, where its ruffle is secured. The ruffle is 7.5-8.5 cm-tall and consists of 11 bias-cut pieces of fabric, diagonally sewn. In spite of the use of imported fabric and the addition of ruffles for embellishment, the design of the dress follows traditional standards, therefore preserving a very conservative character, keeping the largest surface of the body covered.   Height of bodice: 30 cm. Height of waistband: 4.5 cm. Height of skirt: 67 cm up to the ruffle, 75 cm at the base of the waistband. Width of skirt at the bottom edge: 104 cm. Width of sleeves: 19 cm in the upper part, 11 cm in the lower part and 14 cm at the ruffle. Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994 Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.