Ali Bey el Abbassi

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.     Under the fantastic designation Ali Bey el Abbassi, was veiled a Spaniard, long resident in Paris, Don Domingo Badia-y-Leyblich. He visited Cyprus from March 4 to May 12, 1806. He commented on the character and the appearance of the natives of both nations and sexes: “The Greeks are quite as jealous as the Turks, and keep their womenkind in such out of the way places that it is impossible to see them. Those whom I met in the street were covered and hidden by a white sheet, just like Turkish women… Their costume is not ungraceful, but a kind of conical cap which they wear on the head displeases me immensely. The men have often good figures, and generally good complexions. Persons of any position always wear long coats, like the Turks, from whom they are distinguishable only by their blue turban: but many wear other colours, and even white, without offending the Turks…. The Greeks all wear moustaches, and shave their chins like the Turks; but oldish people and priests often grow beards. They are forbidden to carry arms, but they all have a knife or dagger concealed about them… Many natives place themselves under the protection of some European consul, who is allowed to grant this favour to a certain number. These protégés enjoy all the immunities of the subjects of the nation which protects them. They are distinguished by a tall black cap of bear’s skin, called calpàc. I have however seen Greeks who were not protégés wearing the calpàc unnoticed by the Turks.” (Cobham 1908, 396-397).