purple

Cypriot costume of the “Amalia” type. It consists of the following pieces: Off-white silk chemise with a V opening at the chest, decorated with handmade pipilla (needle lace), which also adorns the edges of the sleeves.The puple skirt is ankle-length with rich folds at the waistline.  Sarka made of black felt with straight, long sleeves sewn vertically onto the shoulders, and a low upright collar. It closes above the waist, forming a large V opening at the bust. The collar, the sleeves and all the edges have a rich decoration of sewn-on gold cords. On both sides of the chest, the decoration extends into a paisley design. Even the seams of the sleeves are accentuated with gold decorative braid. A red fez with a long thick tassel made of black silk threads. This dangling tassel falls on the chest, while a second tassel is fixed on the top of the fez, forming the tepeliki. The outfit is completed with a clasp. The “Amalia” costume was established in Cyprus before the mid-19th century. It was initially the formal attire worn by women in the urban centres, where it was preserved until the adoption of European dress. Later it was adopted in rural areas, where it was used as a festive or bridal outfit even as late as the first decades of the 20th century.     

Inv. no. 211: Female costume of a later, “modern” type. It consists of a white shirt with a ready-made fringe, a skirt of dark-coloured, striped alatzia, a long, sleeved jacket made of burgundy fabric, and a headscarf. The jacket is fitted at the waist and closes with hooks and a button at the waistband. The design appears to copy a European-style jacket. The printed headscarf is made of kouroukla (fine cotton fabric) in vinegar colour. Printed floral designs adorn the edges and the corners, and all four sides are trimmed with ready-made lace. Such printed scarves were produced in the workshop of Kakoullis brothers, who continued the craft of their uncle Evris Mantilaris, in Nicosia, until the death of Nikos Kakoullis in 2004.

The costume is completed with white socks, black laced shoes, and a bronze cross pendant, worn around the neck. This type of costume was fashionable in Cyprus around the mid-20th century.

Wide belt made of purple velvet, densely embroidered with gold thread. The neoclassical design consists of continuous spirals in a contrary arrangement, with curving acanthus leaves and various floral motifs in between. The flat stitch embroidery motifs are reinforced with paper underneath, creating the impression of relief. The entire length of the embroidered surface is bordered with an elaborate, fine edging, also made of gold thread. The back of the belt is lined and reinforced with purple satin and cotton fabric.

Dimensions: length 86 cm., width 6 cm., embroidery length 77 cm.