brown

ΜΓ 45

A man’s double-breasted vest made of black and maroon velvet.

The front of the vest consists of two panels of maroon velvet on either side of the breast, one of which, high on the shoulder, is small. Beneath each armpit, a triangular panel of black velvet has been added, whereas the back is formed as a single piece, also of black velvet.

The vest closes on either side, with two oblique rows of eight spherical buttons, fixed from the inside to a thick braided cord, also placed obliquely. The handmade buttons, of black cord around an off-white fabric core, suspend from the ends of long braided loops to allow ease of movement. The loops of the buttons project through a double row of lozenges made with couched black cords. Buttonholes with an oblong opening correspond to the buttons, also for ease of movement. They are defined by rows of cords and terminate at a row of spirals where there is available room.

The deep and wide oval opening at the breast is trimmed with rows of black cords or also braids, which extend to the horizontal bottom edge of the vest. In the lower part of the opening, black cords also form a mat design in repetitive curved lines, as well as spirals in different combinations. Further down, the right side of the breast has a decorative element made of colourful cords. The central rectangular pattern is outlined by rows of cords in yellow and orange, and is filled with blue cords forming a dense braid. Above and below, spirals of cords in green, red and orange are formed. The selvedge of the two front panels of the velvet fabric, in yellow, brown, green and orange, appears at the vertical joints with the black velvet side panels.

On the right side of the vest, part of the selvedge and the velvet fabrics on either side is covered by a sewn-on vase-shaped pocket of worn green velvet. The outline of the pocket is trimmed with rows of green and multicoloured cords with hook-shaped opposite-facing ends at the uppermost edges. In the lower part of the pocket, the open ends of the cords form a tassel. The surface of the pocket, within a frame of double cord, blue and multicoloured, is decorated with a schematized floral pattern, composed in the upper part by a heart with a double border and in the lower part by pairs of opposite-facing leaves. Four spirals are formed in the upper part of the heart. The pattern is made of silver-coloured metal-wrapped cord.

The armholes are framed by multicoloured and black cords that also run along the shoulders and the back of the neck. The bias-cut opening of the vest, from the breast to the lower side, is defined externally by kamaroues, small arches of thick black cord. Lower, the curve of the opposite-facing corners at the base of the opening of the vest has, externally, a sewn-on row of dense taller arches, also of black cord. The bottom edge of the front panels is decorated lengthwise, above the rows of black cords, with consecutive lozenges, also of black cord, terminating at spirals on their tops.

On the back side of the vest, a vertical opening extends from the waist up high on the back (height: 21.5 cm). Along the perimeter of the opening, thirteen holes with circular metallic eyelets are formed, through which a ribbon would pass, meant to be fastened in the lower part. The opening is trimmed with two rows of double cords, blue and multicouloured. Further inside, it is flanked by three interlaced rows of lozenges, formed by double cords of green and orange. Along the inner side of the pattern there extends a red cord, forming spirals at the tops of the inner row of lozenges. This decoration extends along the bottom edge of the vest. In the upper part of the vertical opening, a schematized floral pattern is composed of a lozenge at the centre, two superposed oval patterns in the upper part, and in the lower part, symmetrical leaf-shaped elements on either side of the oval shape. The outlines are formed by orange, blue and multicouloured cords, whereas the oval and leaf-shaped elements are filled with rows of green and red cords. Blue cords form a mat pattern that covers the inside of the lozenge. The entire couched decoration of the vest is fixed at various points with widely distanced handmade stitches in colours that parallel those of the patterns.

On the inside, the vest is lined with white-beige cotton fabric. Near the opening of one arm, the selvedge of the lining is discernible with coloured stripes in yellow, green and blue. Along the neck opening, there extends a reinforcing band of fabric with burgundy, red, blue, yellow and multicoloured stripes, hand-sewn with black thread. Lower, the bias-cut opening of the breast is reinforced on the inside on both sides with a piece of black velvet. The imprint of a blank-ink-stamp may be discerned on the lining. It includes an unintelligible inscription in three rows within an oval frame. Tentatively, the word YFASMATON [of fabrics] may be discerned in the upper row, and LEFKOSIA [Nicosia] in the lower row.

Height: 43 cm.

Width: 25 cm on the shoulders, 45 cm at the armpits, 37.5 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection: 13.12.1948

Provenance: Kelokedara, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 40

Long foustanin, sleeveless, from striped silk-cotton imported fabric with alternating broad and narrow vertical stripes in green, brown, beige-yellow, lilac and orange. In the Registry of the Yeroskipou Museum it is reported that the foustanin was worn with a sarka, whereas its fabric is identified, with a question mark, as “mecidiyes” (for this particular type of fabric, see Hadjittofi and Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2024,...) The design of the fabric evokes the traditional loom-woven alatzia, and it may have been chosen for a foustanin with a traditional design precisely because of this resemblance.

The garment consists of a bodice and a skirt, joined around the waist. The upper part of the back (height: 15 cm) and the two front panels are made of a single fabric piece. The lower part of the back consists of a white cotton fabric, of the type that lines the entire upper part of the foustanin. All the joints on the bodice as well as the lining are hand-sewn.

An oval opening on the breast reaches vertically below the waist (total opening height: 16.5 cm, 10 cm of which below the waistline). The vertical opening fastens with two hooks, one at the middle and the other at the top of the opening. An upright collar at the back of the neck is made of an added band of fabric of the same type, with horizontal stripes. Blue cotton trimming band, hand-sewn with yellow thread, outlines the edges of the oval opening and the collar.

The generous skirt gathers at the waist in small pleats. A reinforcing band of lining, which also gathers like the skirt, has been added all around the waist, along the internal joint of the bodice to the skirt. The skirt consists of six panels, 42 cm wide, joined with handmade seams. A reinforcing band (fasa) of the same white cotton fabric as the lining, 4 cm wide, has been added to the inside of the hem. The edges of the skirt, both internally and externally, feature a trimming band finish of three different fabrics: blue, red and one of colourful stripes. Apart from its decorative function, the trimming band protected the hemline from fraying.

Albeit not skillfully sewn, the dress appears elegant. It is combined with a sarka, which explains the use of white fabric in the lower part of the back, intended to be covered. The fabric of the dress has worn in several places.

Height: 128 cm (bodice: 34 cm, skirt: 94 cm).

Width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 39.5 cm at the waist, 114 cm around the hemline.

Date of entry to the Collection: 10.11.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Purchase.

This later female costume (dress Inv. No. 245) comprises a dress (EE 3827), a tsemberi (EE 3828) and a pair of stivalia (EE 3829). Donated by “Demetra”, the Rural Local Union of Lysi, Cyprus, in 1973.

Inv. No. EE 3827: Dress made of European stamped fabric, with delicate pattern of five consecutive tiny triangles, repeated in two parallel rows. The white-, red- and yellow-coloured motifs appear scattered against a brown background. The dress consists of a separate, wide skirt made of three fabric panels, and a fitted top with narrow horizontal pleats forming a vertical decorative band at the chest. A vertical opening, formed along one of its sides, closes with clips. The dress has a round collar of the same fabric, and long sleeves with cuffs. The joint between the skirt and the top is covered by a belt of the same fabric.

The design of the dress follows pre-1950s’ fashion styles and denotes European influence. Such dresses were made by professional seamstresses, while simple traditional costumes were sewn and embroidered at home, by women themselves. Length of dress: 120 cm. Length and width of sleeves: 76x0,5 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3828: Tsemberi (headscarf) of kouroukla (thin cotton fabric), with stamped decoration on a brown background. The all-around print, the kkenarin, consists of a repeating floral pattern, formed with the use of oblong wooden moulds. The corners are also adorned with a milia pattern, a neoclassical-type wreath with leaves and flowers. The outline of the designs, the kara-kalemi, is black, with red and yellow as complementary colours, printed with different moulds. The design, which resembles that of other stamped headscarves in the Benaki Museum Collection, remained in use at the workshop of Kakoullis brothers until 2004.

The tsemberi is trimmed all around with continuous kamares (arches) of green thread, and knots of white thread. Dimensions: 70x70 cm.

Inv. No. EE 3829: Stivalia, pair of female black boots, made by a skarparis (shoemaker) (for their way of manufacture, see Ionas 2001, 471, 477). Their toe box is round, and their heel is low and curved (“Louis”), made of overlaid pieces of sole leather. Their shaft widens upwards, reaching up to the middle of the calf. They are fastened with 13 round leather buttons, arranged in a vertical row at the side of the shaft. Each boot consists of six pieces: two at the front, covering the toes and the upper part of the foot, one at the heel counter, two at the sides of the shaft and a strip bearing the buttonholes. The joints are machine-sewn, decorated with stitches and rows of small holes. Machine-made stitches form straight and zigzag or wavy lines, as well as stylized anthems. Two leather strips, sewn vertically along the entire front and back of the shaft, protrude at its upper end. They are decorated with stitches, forming consecutive rhombuses bordered by lines. Prokkouthkia (small nails) are employed at the heels.

The stivalia are accompanied by a small metal hook with an elongated shaft, curved into a loop at its back end. The hook, 11 cm. long, was used to fasten the boots. Height of boot: 36 cm. Width of top opening: 25 cm.

Inv. No. EE 2571: Decorative fez band (probably), made of crimson velvet. The one end of the band is broader and tongue-shaped, consisting of a separate, sewn piece. A hem is formed along the edges. The whole surface of the band, including its tongue-shaped end, is covered by a continuous wavy branch with leaves, blossoms and flowers, made of gold threads in padded satin stiches, and studded with seed pearls. At the back side, the band is lined with brown cloth. The back side of the embroidery is visible on the lining. The tongue-shaped end of the band is bordered with goldwork lace. Dimensions: Length: 58,5 cm. Width of band: 4 cm. Width of tongue-shaped end: 6,5 cm.

Double-breasted waistcoat (Turk: kavuşturma yelek) made of broadcloth. It belongs togeth­er with the breeches No. 087 and was worn above a chemise. The front part is made of two pieces of blue broadcloth (çuha/çufa) of the same size, and can be cross-fastened on either side by means of plaited silk thread buttons. On the shoulders, where each front part is stitched onto the back part, the width is 7.5cm. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (28.5cm); then the piece becomes narrower downwards and is only 18cm at the lower edge. There are six buttons on either side; the buttons are spheri­cal, plaited with yellow cotton thread and covered with black twisted silk thread. The inside of the parts where the buttons and the buttonholes are found, are strengthened with additional pieces of broadcloth. A white cotton strip attached diagonally connects the buttons on the inside. The reinforced parts of broadcloth are covered with black spi­rals of applied embroidery and a wickerwork pattern, which extends on both sides of the opening up to the shoulder. On either side of the front there are two applied patterns: a broad oval leaf filled with black braids (gaitania, Turk: kaytan, gaytan) and twisted threads, ending in a small blossom filled with embroidery in green and orange silk thread. Next to the leaf is a long S-shaped motif with a spiral at the lower end and a blossom filled with embroidery in or­ange and green silk thread. The sides of the waistcoat, under the openings for the arms, consist of two pieces of purple (turned into brown with time) velvet (Turk: kadife), 4.5cm broad, which widen upwards to a width of 9cm. On the velvet pieces there are lozenge-shaped wickerwork patterns in green and orange, as well as blossoms filled with embroidery in green, orange and blue. On each side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of originally purple velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, i.e. it is applied half on the velvet and half on the broadcloth piece. Each pocket is deco­rated with the same abstract vegetal pattern formed with thread twisted with thin metal wire (Turk: tel) sewn to the pocket. Purple and orange thread and black braids are sewn all round the pockets. Similar decoration is applied on all the edges of the waistcoat. The back is made of two pieces of broadcloth, 43cm long and 18.5cm wide. In the middle there is a vertical slit 28.5cm long, with eight metallic rivets (Turk: perçin) on either side and one at the top for a lace to go through and cross-fasten the opening, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. From the neck to the top of the slit the joint of the two parts is decorated with a narrow piping (Turk: fitil) on each side (total width about 2cm). The back is decorated with lozenge patterns, curving floral motifs and two confronted birds on the uppermost part. The outline of the birds is made of twisted threads, purple, orange and black, the head is filled with gold metallic wire and the body and tail are filled with embroidery of orange and blue silk threads. Overall, every part of the waistcoat has multi-coloured braids, silk threads or twist­ed metal wires sewn to it, forming spiralling floral motifs, wickerwork pattern, lozenges, almond-shaped patterns, scrolls and spirals. This rich adornment calls to mind the motifs of Islamic inspiration incised on bronze utensils of the 18th and 19th centuries. The waistcoat is lined with off-white cotton material. All applied decoration is sewn on thick paper, which can be seen on the inside (the paper is sewn together with the ap­plied decoration). There are also pieces of thicker paper/cardboard. On these papers one can read advertisements in Greek, such as [ΕΡΓΟΣ]ΤΑΣΙΟΝ Η ΚΑΛΗ ΤΥΧΗ / ΕΥΑΓΓΕΛΗ ΚΑΠΝΟΣ ΜΥΡΩΔΑΤΟΣ ΑΡΙΣΤΗΣ ΠΟΙΟΤΗΤΟΣ (Good Luck Factory Evangeli aromatic to­bacco of the best quality) Fabrique de T[abac].On another piece of paper inside, one can read: Manufacture of Tobacco G.O. Dianellos and Son. There is also the picture of a sun and above the sun: MINERVA KΑΠΝΟΣ ΓΕΝΙΤΣ… ΜΥΡΩ[ΔΑΤΟΣ] (tobacco YENICE aromatic) Bazar Street 35 ΛΑΡΝΑΚΙ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (Larnaca Cyprus)