blue

The costume consists of ypokamison (chemise), foustani (dress), a headscarf and and black shoes. The chemise is short and made of taiston cotton fabric (woven material with crinkled stripes running lengthwise). The fustani is made of striped cotton alatzia, with white and blue stripes. It is entirely hand-sewn and has a body with a large V-shaped opening, passing beneath the breast, which is covered by the chemise. The long sleeves are attached to the body by sleeve-seams, as in modern garments. The long skirt is gathered at the waist.  The head is covered by a brown square kerchief. The shoes are made of black leather.    

Inv. no. 294: Urban-style dress made of silk fabric. The entire surface of the dress is embroidered with delicate flower branches in soft shades of white, green, and pink on a light blue background. The bouquets are surrounded by double curvilinear frames, embroidered with a fine chain-stitch.

The ankle-length dress has long sleeves and a deep opening at the chest. The bodice consists of a separate piece of fabric, as also the sleeves. White fabric with a ribbon lacing, like that of male vests, has been added to the back for an adjustable fit. The lower part of the dress consists of a single piece of fabric with many folds. At the height where pockets are usually found, there are two 17cm openings with a black finish. The edges of the chest opening and the sleeves, as well as the hem are decorated with a wavy blue ribbon trimmed with sewn-on sequins. The chest opening is covered with an off-white tulle embroidered with delicate flowers and decorated with handmade sewn-on daisies and pipilla (needle lace). The dress belonged to the family of Georgios Sivitanides, in Limassol. 19th century.

Dress length: 131 cm.

ΜΓ 39

A woman’s sarka of blue felt, decorated with goldwork.

It consists of two front panels, one on each side of the breast, joined to the single back piece through shoulder and side seams.

The sleeves are cut from a single piece of fabric with an inseam that extends to the sides of the garment, reaching down to the hem. They are set in at right angles and their lower end comprises an additional piece of felt, 2 cm tall, featuring an indented edge. This additional section is gathered in folds, held in place by continuous basting stitches. Its upper side is delimited by a band of lace-like goldwork and, further up, by a fine cord of silver(?) thread. The 1 cm-tall goldwork band features continuous inverted arches below a straight braiding. Similar embellishments are found on other locally constructed sarkes.

The garment’s upright collar, measuring 4 cm in height, consists of a separate fabric piece sewn onto the round neckline with a handmade seam. All other garment seams are also made by hand. The collar closes at the base of the neck with a hook-and-eye fastener. A second hook-and-eye, further below, closes the vertical opening extending down the front. The collar border, the front opening and the hem of the garment are trimmed with an appliqué goldwork band, matching that on the sleeves. A fine cord of twisted silver thread(?) further adorns these areas externally.

Elaborate embroidery graces the collar, sleeve ends, entire hem and both sides of the vertical opening. Floral motifs of silver(?) thread and tir-tir (spiral wire) thread in bright gold colour stand out against the blue felt. The embroidery employs satin stitch over padding of cardboard paper, creating a relief  effect. On the collar, a winding branch with leaves and fruit of silver thread stems from a triangle at the centre of the nape and extends symmetrically toward the front opening. The same design is repeated on both sleeves with an added palmette motif crowning its centre. This motif features upright leaves emerging from an elongated horizontal element, filled with an interlace of tir-tir threads within a simple border. Tiny gold-coloured sequins are sewn-on sparsely, using tir-tir thread that passes through a central hole. More sequins survive on the right sleeve, scattered around and in-between the embroidered design.

A similar, yet larger and more enriched palmette motif is depicted at the centre of the back (height: 18 cm). A triple row of tir-tir interlace fills the elongated horizontal element at its centre. Further down, the palmette’s base is flanked by two spirals of leaved branches (one on each side), ending in a multi-petal rosette. At the centre of the flower, an interlace borders four clusters of four or five tir-tir rows arranged in opposite directions. A circular interlace motif of tir-tir emerges upon the blue felt at the triangular base of the palmette. This was once embellished with scattered sequins, most of which do not survive. Two opposite-facing leaved branches extend from the palmette to the front opening, continuing up to the base of the collar on either side of the garment. Each side of the breast is further adorned with an upright schematized branch, emerging from the decoration down at the hem. Each branch boasts leaves and a big central rosette, the petals of which are filled with continuous tir-tir rows. The rosette’s uncovered centre is defined by a tir-tir interlace and adorned with a sequin in the middle. The largest branch leaves of the embroidered decoration are filled with parallel rows or interlaces of tir-tir. Small five-leaved palmettes fill the space below the upright branches, while three-leaved motifs adorn the outer bottom corners of the front opening.

The sarka features a light blue/indigo lining sewn with blue or beige thread. Thick fabric reinforces internally all embroidered areas, including the collar. Although subtle, the reinforcement becomes discernible where the blue cotton lining has worn.

This sarka, namely one of the oldest garments in the Collection, bears a characteristic type of decoration that is rarely met in Cyprus. The neoclassical motifs and embroidery techniques employed evoke the goldwork adornment on luxurious overcoats, which were once part of dress ensembles associated with Hellenic urban centres. The sarka is comparable to overcoats dating back to Queen Amalia’s era, from the mid-19th c. onwards. Given that similar elements –  such as the ready-made lace-like goldwork bands, as well as the light blue/indigo lining – appear on other sarkes within the Collection and in other Cypriot museums, it is considered possible that the sarka was crafted in Cyprus.

Height: 41 cm (including the goldwork band at the bottom).

Width: 50 cm (underarms) 46 cm (at the waist), 36 cm (on the shoulders).

Sleeve length: 47 cm.

Sleeve width: 16 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 10.11.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 69

Sarka of blue felt, decorated with goldwork.

The front consists of two fabric panels, one on each side of the breast, securing with a hook-and-eye closure at their lower end. The single-piece back is joined to these panels via shoulder and side seams. A separate upright collar, 5 cm tall, reveals an inner reinforcement beneath the worn beige lining. The sarka’s lining is made of imported fabric with woven leaves and acorns.

On the inner left side, an oblong piece of the sarka fabric extends above the lining. This addition forms a concealed pocket with a vertical opening close to the breast opening, to accommodate the right hand. The pocket opening is hemmed and trimmed with a twisted gold thread cord, featuring an s-shaped projection in the upper part.

The sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, consist of a single piece of fabric with an inseam. Two triangular gussets are joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 7 cm).

The collar border, breast opening, entire hem, sleeve edges and inseams, and side seams are adorned with double braids of silk thread in gold, with an upper side coating of gold-coloured metal thread.

Couched cords of gold thread are used for the remaining decoration. A branch with schematized opposite-facing broad leaves or fruit, each ending in a curvilinear projection, extends along the entire collar surface. This motif is perhaps depicting a vine.

A broad band showcasing schematized floral designs (curvilinear motifs and spirals) adorns the breast opening, hem, and sleeve edges. An outline of basting stitches extends along its inner side. The embroidered design becomes simpler around the neckline, ending at the back of the neck in a continuous zig-zag line with circles in-between.

A large paisley-shaped motif springs from the lower outer corner of both front panels. Its widest part features two large opposite-facing spirals, while the rest of its surface is composed of smaller spirals and curvilinear motifs. The composite outline of the paisley comprises rows of cords internally and dense continuous loops externally.

On both sides of the vertical side seams, a corner ornament extending from the decorative hem band upward resembles a schematized cypress tree with spirals at its base. A simpler vertical motif of loops and circles, crowned by a curved cord, projects from the decorative band at the centre of the back.

Height: 35.5-36 cm.

Waist width: 38 cm.

Sleeve length: 46 cm.

Sleeve width: 16 cm in the upper part, 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 23.5.1952

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 17

A woman’s sarka of blue wool woven fabric with appliqué needlework.

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric piece that extends to the two front panels. Two additional pieces are attached below the deep oval breast opening (height: 30 cm, width: 18 cm): a triangular section on the left side (height: 23 cm, width: 11 cm on the lower side), and a rectangular one on the right (sides’ length: 17.5 and 14 cm). The sarka is double-breasted, fastening at the base of the oval opening with a vertical row of five deep-red braided buttons, paired to loops (height of buttoned section: 10 cm, lower end to hem distance: 14 cm). The rectangular overlapping section closes with a braided button in the upper corner. Slits on the sides of the garment measure 8 cm and 6.5 cm in height.

A beige braid trimming the neckline reaches down to the button that secures the rectangular overlap on the right side, whereas on the left it continues along the oblique side of the additional triangular section, reaching to a height of 10 cm below the oval opening. Needlework edging of yellow silk thread and gold thread flanks the braid. The outer edging, namely a fine band featuring continuous arches, runs along the oval opening and the upper side of the crossed-over closure. The inner edging, namely a broader band with consecutive solid circular leaves or fans(?), extends down to the buttoned section.

The sleeves are vertically sewn to the body, comprising a single fabric piece with an inseam and two gussets, joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 13 and 15 cm).  A 24 cm opening at the lower part of the sleeves is trimmed with an inner braid and an outer needlework edging of continuous arches, similar to that on the breast. Up to approximately the height of the opening (27 cm above the bottom edge), the sleeve ends feature a lining of imported blue cotton with woven yellowish and white floral motifs. Other than this, the garment is lined with off-white loosely-woven cotton.

Height: 54 cm.

Width: 46 cm at the waist, 42 cm under the sleeves, 43.5 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 59 cm.

Sleeve width: 15-16 cm in the upper part, 12 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

A gold-embroidered sarka made of dark blue felt. It is open at the front and has a short collar around the neck. The sleeves are long and straight, with triangular insets of cloth (pomanika) giving width to the underarms. The jacket is decorated with gold-embroidered floral patterns, an elaborate combination of symmetrical spiralling branches with leaves and stylized flower ornaments. On both sides of the front part there is a big, lahouri-shaped stylized composite floral motif with a rosette in its centre. The fine, intricate embroidery, undoubtedly the work of a talented craftsman, decorates the cuffs, the neck collar, the front opening and the hemline of the jacket. The decoration is completed with a thin golden braid, which forms a borderline all around the edges. The lining of the sarka is made of a cotton cloth in light blue colour.   Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 39).

A sarka, woman’s jacket made of felt in dark blue colour. It has a deep opening at the front and, in contrast to most other examples, this sarka is long enough to reach below the waist; at its lower part the opening closes with five small plaited buttons, and below them there is an extension of the right front, which overlaps the left lower part and closes there with one button.  The back and the front part of the sarka are made of a single piece of cloth, while for the cross-over two other small pieces (16x14 cm) have been added on the front. Furthermore, two small loxes (gores) have been set into the sides of the sarka for width, and for the same purpose there is an opening of 8 cm in each side. The sleeves are long and vertically sewn on the body. On the inner side of their lower part there is a long slit, through which one can see the lining; it is made of a fabric with small flower patterns on a dark background, and covers only the lower part of the sleeves, while the rest of the jacket is lined with common beige cotton cloth. The underarms of the sleeves have additional pomanika, triangular insets that give width, thus facilitating the movements. The opening at the front, the seams and the edges of the sleeves have sewn-on gold decoration. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 17).

Double-breasted waistcoat (Turk: kavuşturma yelek) made of broadcloth. It belongs togeth­er with the breeches No. 087 and was worn above a chemise. The front part is made of two pieces of blue broadcloth (çuha/çufa) of the same size, and can be cross-fastened on either side by means of plaited silk thread buttons. On the shoulders, where each front part is stitched onto the back part, the width is 7.5cm. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (28.5cm); then the piece becomes narrower downwards and is only 18cm at the lower edge. There are six buttons on either side; the buttons are spheri­cal, plaited with yellow cotton thread and covered with black twisted silk thread. The inside of the parts where the buttons and the buttonholes are found, are strengthened with additional pieces of broadcloth. A white cotton strip attached diagonally connects the buttons on the inside. The reinforced parts of broadcloth are covered with black spi­rals of applied embroidery and a wickerwork pattern, which extends on both sides of the opening up to the shoulder. On either side of the front there are two applied patterns: a broad oval leaf filled with black braids (gaitania, Turk: kaytan, gaytan) and twisted threads, ending in a small blossom filled with embroidery in green and orange silk thread. Next to the leaf is a long S-shaped motif with a spiral at the lower end and a blossom filled with embroidery in or­ange and green silk thread. The sides of the waistcoat, under the openings for the arms, consist of two pieces of purple (turned into brown with time) velvet (Turk: kadife), 4.5cm broad, which widen upwards to a width of 9cm. On the velvet pieces there are lozenge-shaped wickerwork patterns in green and orange, as well as blossoms filled with embroidery in green, orange and blue. On each side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of originally purple velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, i.e. it is applied half on the velvet and half on the broadcloth piece. Each pocket is deco­rated with the same abstract vegetal pattern formed with thread twisted with thin metal wire (Turk: tel) sewn to the pocket. Purple and orange thread and black braids are sewn all round the pockets. Similar decoration is applied on all the edges of the waistcoat. The back is made of two pieces of broadcloth, 43cm long and 18.5cm wide. In the middle there is a vertical slit 28.5cm long, with eight metallic rivets (Turk: perçin) on either side and one at the top for a lace to go through and cross-fasten the opening, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. From the neck to the top of the slit the joint of the two parts is decorated with a narrow piping (Turk: fitil) on each side (total width about 2cm). The back is decorated with lozenge patterns, curving floral motifs and two confronted birds on the uppermost part. The outline of the birds is made of twisted threads, purple, orange and black, the head is filled with gold metallic wire and the body and tail are filled with embroidery of orange and blue silk threads. Overall, every part of the waistcoat has multi-coloured braids, silk threads or twist­ed metal wires sewn to it, forming spiralling floral motifs, wickerwork pattern, lozenges, almond-shaped patterns, scrolls and spirals. This rich adornment calls to mind the motifs of Islamic inspiration incised on bronze utensils of the 18th and 19th centuries. The waistcoat is lined with off-white cotton material. All applied decoration is sewn on thick paper, which can be seen on the inside (the paper is sewn together with the ap­plied decoration). There are also pieces of thicker paper/cardboard. On these papers one can read advertisements in Greek, such as [ΕΡΓΟΣ]ΤΑΣΙΟΝ Η ΚΑΛΗ ΤΥΧΗ / ΕΥΑΓΓΕΛΗ ΚΑΠΝΟΣ ΜΥΡΩΔΑΤΟΣ ΑΡΙΣΤΗΣ ΠΟΙΟΤΗΤΟΣ (Good Luck Factory Evangeli aromatic to­bacco of the best quality) Fabrique de T[abac].On another piece of paper inside, one can read: Manufacture of Tobacco G.O. Dianellos and Son. There is also the picture of a sun and above the sun: MINERVA KΑΠΝΟΣ ΓΕΝΙΤΣ… ΜΥΡΩ[ΔΑΤΟΣ] (tobacco YENICE aromatic) Bazar Street 35 ΛΑΡΝΑΚΙ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (Larnaca Cyprus)  

Wide, heavily pleated breeches (No. 087) (Turk çufa şalvar/çuha) made of blue broadcloth. The gar­ment consists of three pieces, the middle part and two side parts for the legs. The middle part is one piece from the front to the back and is the broadest, measuring 115cm. The length is 140cm (70cm in front and 70cm at the back). Each side piece is 60cm broad and has an opening 16.5cm wide. An additional strip of cotton cloth (7x2cm) is sewn to the waist to make a casing for the belt (Turk: uçkur), which passes through it to gather the pleats. In this case the original was replaced with a black ribbon. In the middle, where the belt was tied, there is a 15.5cm long opening in front and another opening of the same length at the back. The seams and the edges of the leg openings are decorated with black braids (gaitania turk. Gaytan or kaytan, cotton or silk cord, braid)and cords (Turk: şerit), 2cm wide, made of black silk thread. The outside of the leg pieces are decorated with twisted applied silk threads, forming a wickerwork pattern and solid curv­ing motifs ending in spirals. This schematized vegetal motif extends up the sides from the bottom almost to the top. At the top of the design is a bird. The leaves of the main motif are covered with embroidery in red, purple and green. The black designs are filled with a wickerwork pattern. The curved leaves recall the tulip flower (lale). The decoration seems to have been inspired by Ottoman designs. The breeches are lined with white cotton ma­terial. They are old and worn.