Female

ΜΓ 146

Women’s pantaloons of loom-woven white cotton fabric. This is an unworn garment, of the same pattern as the preceding one (ΜΓ 387).

The legs, which gather at the bottom with dense hand-sewn pleats, consist of two fabric sections each. The broader one, measuring 40-40.5 cm/41 cm in width, covers the front side and part of the back externally, whereas the other, measuring 18.5-19 cm in width on one leg and 20-20.5 cm on the other, completes the inner part of the back. A rectangular piece of fabric (sides: 36/36.5 cm x 34.5 cm), placed diagonally at the crotch, creates a triangle on either side of the garment. The seams at the joints of this additional piece are bulky, featuring a 0.5-0.7 cm hem.

The 3 cm-tall hem casing across the waist is machine-stitched, with a threaded drawstring.

Height: 70 cm.

Waist width: 61 cm.

Leg width: 30-31 cm in the upper part, 14.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1978

Provenance: Unknown.

ΜΓ 124

A woman’s long, cream silk (loom-woven koukkoullariko) chemise with short sleeves.

It consists of two half pieces, 40 cm wide, reaching from the front to the back and joined vertically across the middle of both sides. Each piece extends to a short sleeve with a hemless edge. The sleeve inseam carries on under the armpit and extends downwards to the simple hem of the chemise. In the upper part, the round neckline features a low band collar, 1.5 cm high, of double fabric. The opening of the collar, at the centre front, closes with a ready-made mother-of-pearl button, paired to a handmade buttonhole. The opening continues vertically at a height of 32 cm, at the extension of the vertical seam joining the two fabric panels on the front of the chemise. On either side of the vertical opening, the fabric is folded over, forming a more solid placket finish. On the back of the chemise, a pleat at the base of the collar crowns the central vertical seam.

The garment is exclusively machine-made.

Height: 93 cm.

Width: 78 cm at the base.

Sleeve length: 14 cm (from the armpit).

Sleeve width: 18 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1978

Provenance: Yeroskipou, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 71

Formal foustanin of striped glossy imported fabric with gold-yellow, blue and white-burgundy stripes. The colours differ at the back in that blue outweighs yellow on the gold-yellow stripes.

The upper front of the dress consists of two pieces, one on either side of the breast. The entire back consists of a single piece of off-white cotton fabric. Beige cotton fabric, more sparsely woven, also lines the entire bodice and the long sleeves, except from their edges.

A long oval opening on the breast (height: 30 cm, maximum width: 17 cm), reaches vertically below the breast to the waist, fastening with four hooks, whereas it continues below the waist (total opening height: 24 cm, 8 cm of which up to the waist). On the inside of the dress, short fine strips from the dress fabric have been added to more or less the middle of the oval opening, perhaps intended as repair.

The long sleeves, sewn vertically to the body, consist of a single fabric piece with a joint on the inside of the arm. Two gussets are sewn into each armpit (joint length: 14 cm) for ease of movement. The lower end of the sleeves, featuring a bias-cut, 13 cm long opening, is lined with the same fabric as the dress. The lining would be discernible with turn-up sleeves (lining height: 12 cm).

The wide skirt of the dress consists of four panels, each of them approximately 64 cm wide. The upper part of the skirt, densely gathered all around, is joined to the bodice. The hemline is hand stitched.

A ready-made gold band, featuring a base of thick yellow thread and adorned with fine metallic bands that form consecutive lozenges and trianges, is sewn with a gold-coloured thread to the hem of the skirt, the waist, the breast opening and the opening on the sleeves. The edges of the sleeves and the breast opening are trimmed with a ready-made gold thread piping ribbon, held in place with brown thread. The piping includes a straight sparse plait, upon which rests a curved band forming consecutive arches. Sarkes included in the Collection, worn with this type of dresses, are similarly trimmed. In this particular dress, the sarka was required to cover the back which is made of simple cotton fabric.

In spite of the simple design of the dress, the type of its fabric and its trimmings create the impression of a flamboyant formal garment.

Height: 129 cm (bodice: 39 cm, skirt: 90 cm).

Width: 49 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist, 124 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 51 cm.

Width of sleeves: 16-16.5 cm at the upper end, 10 cm at the lower end.

Date of entry to the Collection: 20.4.1953

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 70

Sarka of black felt, adorned with goldwork.

Its front consists of two trapezoid panels, one on each side of the breast (height: 38.5 cm, width: 13 cm in the upper part, 23.5 cm in the lower part), with rounded outer corners at their lower end. An elongated triangular opening is formed centrally from the neckline to the waist. The back of the sarka consists of a single rectangular fabric section (height: 42.5 cm, width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 31 cm at the waist). Hand-sewn black thread seams join the front and back panels on the shoulders and the sides.

The upright collar is made of a separate fabric piece, measuring 4.5 cm in height. It is internally reinforced with different types of fabric in three consecutive layers: beige cotton (beneath), black wool (in-between) and worn fuchsia silk (above). Other than the collar, the sarka is unlined.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two triangular gussets are added to each armpit, forming a rectangle (length: 15 cm, width: 13.5 cm).  The seam joining the paired gussets is covered by a braid of yellow thread, overlaid with gold-coloured metal thread on the upper side. This braid extends downward across the joint between the back and front pieces, and upward along the sleeve inseam.

A similar double braid trim adorns the hem of the sarka, the collar border, the lower end of the sleeves and the front opening. Along the inner side of the braid, a ready-made appliqué decorative band of braided gold threads (textile threads with a gold-coloured metal or other coating) showcases a double row mesh and projecting loops. This band, which is sewn onto the fabric using yellow thread, adorns the collar border internally, and also extends along its lower side externally.

Both lower front corners of the sarka feature a paisley-shaped decorative motif of intricate curved designs, hand-crafted using couched cords of currently worn gold threads. The latter are secured intermittently with yellow stitches that are visible on the inner side of the sarka. Sparse basting with yellow thread outlines the paisley-shaped motif on the right side of the garment. This likely served as a guide for filling in the motif.

Height: 42.5 cm.

Width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 31 cm at the waist.

Sleeve length: 48.5 cm.

Sleeve width: 15.5 cm in the upper part, 13.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 20.4.1953

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 69

Sarka of blue felt, decorated with goldwork.

The front consists of two fabric panels, one on each side of the breast, securing with a hook-and-eye closure at their lower end. The single-piece back is joined to these panels via shoulder and side seams. A separate upright collar, 5 cm tall, reveals an inner reinforcement beneath the worn beige lining. The sarka’s lining is made of imported fabric with woven leaves and acorns.

On the inner left side, an oblong piece of the sarka fabric extends above the lining. This addition forms a concealed pocket with a vertical opening close to the breast opening, to accommodate the right hand. The pocket opening is hemmed and trimmed with a twisted gold thread cord, featuring an s-shaped projection in the upper part.

The sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, consist of a single piece of fabric with an inseam. Two triangular gussets are joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 7 cm).

The collar border, breast opening, entire hem, sleeve edges and inseams, and side seams are adorned with double braids of silk thread in gold, with an upper side coating of gold-coloured metal thread.

Couched cords of gold thread are used for the remaining decoration. A branch with schematized opposite-facing broad leaves or fruit, each ending in a curvilinear projection, extends along the entire collar surface. This motif is perhaps depicting a vine.

A broad band showcasing schematized floral designs (curvilinear motifs and spirals) adorns the breast opening, hem, and sleeve edges. An outline of basting stitches extends along its inner side. The embroidered design becomes simpler around the neckline, ending at the back of the neck in a continuous zig-zag line with circles in-between.

A large paisley-shaped motif springs from the lower outer corner of both front panels. Its widest part features two large opposite-facing spirals, while the rest of its surface is composed of smaller spirals and curvilinear motifs. The composite outline of the paisley comprises rows of cords internally and dense continuous loops externally.

On both sides of the vertical side seams, a corner ornament extending from the decorative hem band upward resembles a schematized cypress tree with spirals at its base. A simpler vertical motif of loops and circles, crowned by a curved cord, projects from the decorative band at the centre of the back.

Height: 35.5-36 cm.

Waist width: 38 cm.

Sleeve length: 46 cm.

Sleeve width: 16 cm in the upper part, 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 23.5.1952

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 40

Long foustanin, sleeveless, from striped silk-cotton imported fabric with alternating broad and narrow vertical stripes in green, brown, beige-yellow, lilac and orange. In the Registry of the Yeroskipou Museum it is reported that the foustanin was worn with a sarka, whereas its fabric is identified, with a question mark, as “mecidiyes” (for this particular type of fabric, see Hadjittofi and Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2024,...) The design of the fabric evokes the traditional loom-woven alatzia, and it may have been chosen for a foustanin with a traditional design precisely because of this resemblance.

The garment consists of a bodice and a skirt, joined around the waist. The upper part of the back (height: 15 cm) and the two front panels are made of a single fabric piece. The lower part of the back consists of a white cotton fabric, of the type that lines the entire upper part of the foustanin. All the joints on the bodice as well as the lining are hand-sewn.

An oval opening on the breast reaches vertically below the waist (total opening height: 16.5 cm, 10 cm of which below the waistline). The vertical opening fastens with two hooks, one at the middle and the other at the top of the opening. An upright collar at the back of the neck is made of an added band of fabric of the same type, with horizontal stripes. Blue cotton trimming band, hand-sewn with yellow thread, outlines the edges of the oval opening and the collar.

The generous skirt gathers at the waist in small pleats. A reinforcing band of lining, which also gathers like the skirt, has been added all around the waist, along the internal joint of the bodice to the skirt. The skirt consists of six panels, 42 cm wide, joined with handmade seams. A reinforcing band (fasa) of the same white cotton fabric as the lining, 4 cm wide, has been added to the inside of the hem. The edges of the skirt, both internally and externally, feature a trimming band finish of three different fabrics: blue, red and one of colourful stripes. Apart from its decorative function, the trimming band protected the hemline from fraying.

Albeit not skillfully sewn, the dress appears elegant. It is combined with a sarka, which explains the use of white fabric in the lower part of the back, intended to be covered. The fabric of the dress has worn in several places.

Height: 128 cm (bodice: 34 cm, skirt: 94 cm).

Width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 39.5 cm at the waist, 114 cm around the hemline.

Date of entry to the Collection: 10.11.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Purchase.

ΜΓ 23

A beige cotton pantaloon edging, rectangular with the upper corners cut off.

The edging’s dense (pefkoto) embroidery comprises three distinct designs, all in blue and red. The central, largest section (length: 35.5 cm, height: 22.5 cm) showcases a design made of lozenges, with single smaller lozenges in their corners. All motifs have a blue outline and a red filling, with single tiny blue lozenges at their centre. The central section is flanked by another two, one on either side. Each edge section displays a different embroidery design. The one on the right (dimensions: 10x9.5x22.5x20 cm) features two rows of successive blue lozenges intersected by a blue line. Between these rows, another row of lozenges in red with a blue centre is intersected by a continuous red line. The outermost sides feature half lozenges in red with a blue filling. On the left section (dimensions: 12x16x12x21.5 cm), continuous lozenges with a blue outline and a red filling contain two tiny blue lozenges each. On the two longer sides, the embroidery ends in half lozenges.

A blue braid finish survives, sewn along 10 cm on the upper left side of the central section. The other three sides preserve plain fabric without embroidery. The widest plain fabric side likely served as the gathering part of the pantaloons.

At the back, the raw edges of the threads used for the handmade embroidery hang loose.

Height: 25 cm.

Length: 58 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Fyti, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 18

Sarka of black felt, adorned with goldwork.

The front comprises two fabric panels, one on each side of the breast (width: 13 cm in the upper part and 19 cm at the waist). These are joined to the single back panel (height: 39.5 cm, width: 37.5 cm in the upper part and 32 cm at the waist) via shoulder and side seams. The collar is made of a separate piece of fabric, 3.5 cm tall. The sarka fastens with a hook-and eye closure at the bottom, creating an elongated V-shaped opening.

The sleeves, joined vertically to the body, consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two triangular gussets, joined lengthwise, have been added at each armpit (joint length: 19 cm).

The faded blue cotton lining is overlaid with added sections of red fabric, creating a triangle across both sides of the front opening (width: 10 cm at the waist). A band of the same fabric also lines the collar. All seams are handmade. 

A double braid of yellow silk thread with an upper side coating of gold-coloured metal thread borders the collar, extends to the breast opening and the hem, and also trims the sleeve edges. The side seams, continuing along the sleeves, are adorned with a single braid. At the base of the collar, a single braid delimits the neckline.

The garment’s edges are further trimmed with a broad, ready-made appliqué band of goldwork. This band features a mesh pattern at its base and continuous arches in the upper part, each crowned with three small loops. Yellow thread secures the band at intervals. A finer, ready-made band of lace-like goldwork edges the breast opening and the hem of the garment, and also adorns the collar base.

A schematised paisley-shaped floral motif is featured in the two lower outer corners of the front panels. This motif extends upward to form a fine branch with a two-pronged spiral edge. The cord used for the decoration is stitched at dense intervals with gold-brown thread.

Height: 36.5 cm.

Width: 36.5 cm at the waist, 37 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 42-43 cm (the left sleeve is bigger). 

Sleeve width: 14.5 in the upper part and 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 17

A woman’s sarka of blue wool woven fabric with appliqué needlework.

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric piece that extends to the two front panels. Two additional pieces are attached below the deep oval breast opening (height: 30 cm, width: 18 cm): a triangular section on the left side (height: 23 cm, width: 11 cm on the lower side), and a rectangular one on the right (sides’ length: 17.5 and 14 cm). The sarka is double-breasted, fastening at the base of the oval opening with a vertical row of five deep-red braided buttons, paired to loops (height of buttoned section: 10 cm, lower end to hem distance: 14 cm). The rectangular overlapping section closes with a braided button in the upper corner. Slits on the sides of the garment measure 8 cm and 6.5 cm in height.

A beige braid trimming the neckline reaches down to the button that secures the rectangular overlap on the right side, whereas on the left it continues along the oblique side of the additional triangular section, reaching to a height of 10 cm below the oval opening. Needlework edging of yellow silk thread and gold thread flanks the braid. The outer edging, namely a fine band featuring continuous arches, runs along the oval opening and the upper side of the crossed-over closure. The inner edging, namely a broader band with consecutive solid circular leaves or fans(?), extends down to the buttoned section.

The sleeves are vertically sewn to the body, comprising a single fabric piece with an inseam and two gussets, joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 13 and 15 cm).  A 24 cm opening at the lower part of the sleeves is trimmed with an inner braid and an outer needlework edging of continuous arches, similar to that on the breast. Up to approximately the height of the opening (27 cm above the bottom edge), the sleeve ends feature a lining of imported blue cotton with woven yellowish and white floral motifs. Other than this, the garment is lined with off-white loosely-woven cotton.

Height: 54 cm.

Width: 46 cm at the waist, 42 cm under the sleeves, 43.5 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 59 cm.

Sleeve width: 15-16 cm in the upper part, 12 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 15

A pair of pantaloon edgings (povradjia), each made of a rectangular piece of beige cotton woven fabric, adorned with dense (pefkoto) loom embroidery in blue and red (decoration height: 21.5 cm). The embroidery comprises consecutive lozenges of blue thread with a red filling, which has faded in places. Along the upper side of the embroidered section, a fine horizontal band measuring 1.5 cm in height features a continuous zig-zag line (design known as the kamaroua) of red thread, within a blue border. On one of the two edgings, this design is discernible up to a point, beyond which the threads have faded. Resting on the band are 17 small vertical axes, crowned with alternating red and blue lozenges (height: 2.5 cm). One of the edgings has been cut across this side, so that only the axes survive. The same edging is hemmed on one of its long sides and one of its narrow sides, whereas the other is hemmed on one of its narrow sides. The embroidery colours, red and blue, are much more vibrant on the back side of the edgings that have not been exposed to the light.

Height: 25 cm and 25.5 cm.

Length: 49.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Droushia, Pafos – Donation.