Female

ΜΓ 674

Long-sleeved foustanin of cotton alatzia with pairs of stripes alternating between green and red against an off-white ground. The peculiar stripes of the alatzia include double rows of tiny consecutive circles, green or red, and rest on yellow bands.

The dress comprises a bodice and a wide skirt which is held in place with a handmade stitch of thick beige thread within a banded waistband around the waist. The back of the bodice consists of a single fabric piece (width: 46 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist), which continues to the front until under the shoulders, at a height of 12-12.5 cm. The rest of the front is covered by two square pieces of fabric, one on either side of the breast (height: 21.5 cm, width: 20-21 cm), with a vertical seam under each armpit.

The simple neckline of the foustanin features a low banded collar of a height of 1.5 cm, from a separate piece of the same alatzia. A vertical opening reaches from the neckline to below the waist (total height of opening: 45 cm, 29 cm of which up to the waistband and 16 cm under it). The two sides of the opening, up to the waistband, as well as the front of the neckline, feature a black trimming band finish. Further in, a decorative edging features arches on a straight line. The sewn-on elements are secured with sparse handmade basting using black thread. Handmade fishbone stitch in brown runs between the trimming band and the edging. On the left side of the dress, the stitch continues to the middle of the back side of the neckline, at the nape.

The long sleeves are sewn vertically to the body. They consist of a single fabric piece with a seam along the centre of the external side of the arm. At the left armpit there is a small rectangular patch of a different fabric (height: 6 cm,  width: 2 cm). At the edge of the sleeves, the fabric is turned in to create internal basting, 2.5 cm in height. The same edging as the one adorning the opening on the breast has been secured with black thread around the basting. The entire bodice, including the sleeves, is lined with joined pieces of thick, off-white, loom-woven cotton fabric. The 2.5 cm-tall waistband is made of two bands of the same alatzia as the dress, albeit with its stripes in horizontal arrangement. The vertical joint of the pieces is discernible at the centre of the back, whereas at the centre of the front side the waistband fastens with a hook. Another hook is placed slightly higher up, at the base of the vertical opening on the breast.

The wide skirt of the foustanin gathers at the waist in dense pleats, formed as the fabric is folded over inwards (height: 2.5 cm) and secured with two thick beige parallel threads that cross through the pleats all around. The skirt consists of two superposed panels. Each panel has a height of 48 cm, 2.5-3 cm of which correspond to basting in the lower panel and in the upper panel to the internal folded-over part within the pleated area. The vertical seams of the two panels, using thick beige thread, extend to the middle of the front side, on the same straight line as the opening of the breast. There is basting around the hemline whereas a black/brown trimming band runs along the edge of the skirt, externally and internally. Fine red lace, now surviving in fragments, is sewn with brown thread at a height of 2.7 cm above the basting. Higher up, at a distance of 20 cm from the basting, ready-made black lace, 3 cm wide, with schematized rosettes, outlines the skirt. The upper part of the lace is sewn with basting and its lower part is unstitched. The same edging as that adorning the sleeves and the opening on the breast runs around the joint of the two superposed pieces of the skirt, at 45 cm over the basting. The various types of seams used on the dress are exclusively handmade.

Height: 126 cm (height of bodice: 33.5 cm,  height of waistband: 2.5 cm, height of skirt: 90 cm).

Width: 46 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist, 120 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 43.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17.5 cm in the upper part, 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1989

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

ΜΓ 551

Women’s pantaloons of loom-woven silk-cotton (koukkoullariko) taiston fabric.

The garment repeats the pattern of the preceding two pantaloons (ΜΓ 387, ΜΓ 146). Each leg consists of two oblong fabric panels: the broader one, measuring 44 cm in width, covers the front and extends partially to the back, whereas the narrower one, measuring 20-20.5 in width, completes the inner side of the back. Α four-sided fabric panel, added diagonally at the crotch, forms two triangles, one on each side of the garment (side lengths: 43 cm, 45 cm, 44 cm and 40 cm). A 2.7 cm-tall hem casing extends along the waist.

The pantaloon legs taper in their lower part, gathering in pleats above and below a horizontal machine-stitched cotton band, 1.5 cm tall. This band is decorated with a continuous zig-zag line of double feather stitch in red. Beneath the band, the remaining leg fabric forms a 8-9 cm-tall ruffle, which features seven hand-embroidered red crosses, four at the front and three at the back. A crochet lace band edges the legs, comprising two rows of continuous rectangles, followed by successive arches that enclose smaller ones (maximum height: 3 cm). Above the lace, a fine band of dense feather stitch in red adorns the edge of the ruffle.

Height: 70 cm.

Waist width: 64 cm.

Leg width: 32 cm in the upper part, 15 cm on the added band, 29-30 cm in the lower part (lace).

Date of entry to the Collection: 30.11.1987

Provenance: Asomatos, Kyreneia – Purchased from Maroulla Ilia Frantzia.

ΜΓ 421

Loom-woven cotton and silk-cotton (koukkoullariko) women’s pantaloons, most likely unworn, preserved in excellent condition.

The long pantaloons gather both at the bottom and around the waist, which features a machine- stitched hem casing, 2 cm tall. Two rectangular fabric panels (height: 32 cm, width: 20 cm) extend from the waist downwards, at the centre front and back of the garment (one on each side). Another two panels, one on each leg, cover the outer hip and thigh front and back, reaching up to the waist (height: 52 cm, width: 44 cm). These are joined to the rectangular pieces with vertical seams, featuring a low hem. Further down, two oblong panels extend along the inner side of the legs, reaching to the bottom (height: 65 cm, width: 20 cm). These are joined to the four panels mentioned above, as well as to each other under the crotch (joint length: 20 cm).

The lower outer side of the legs is made of silk-cotton fabric (height: 33 cm, width: 40 cm in the upper part), adorned with wide and narrow beige horizontal stripes. The pantaloons gather and fasten at their bottom by means of a thick string of braided yarn, passing through the hem casing.

The garment is entirely machine-sewn.

It is part of a woman’s ensemble, typical of the Karpasia region, which also includes the following garments: sayia ΜΓ 419, chemise ΜΓ 420, scarf ΜΓ 422 and kouroukla (headdress) with sequins ΜΓ 423. These were made on the loom in 1984 by Martha Hadjiloizi, originating from Yialousa, and are replicas of old garments from Karpasia.

Overall height: 87 cm.

Waist width: 43 cm.

Leg width: 33 cm (maximum), 17 cm (at the bottom gathering).

Date of entry to the Collection: 7.2.1985

Provenance: Yialousa, Karpasia – Purchase from Maria Sophroniou.

ΜΓ 420

Long, cream silk chemise with long and wide sleeves.

It consists of a single fabric panel, 44-45 cm wide, which extends to the front and back. On the left side, a trapezoid piece of fabric (height: 83 cm, width: 11.5 cm in the upper part, 29 cm in the lower part) reaches from the armpit to the hem. A slender gore has been added next to it, at the lower back of the chemise (height: 50 cm, maximum width at the hem: 7 cm). On the right side, another trapezoid piece (height: 83 cm, width: 9 cm in the upper part and 28 cm in the lower part), also placed under the armpit, is again accompanied by a small gore, at the lower front of the chemise (height: 27 cm, maximum width at the hem: 7 cm).

On the front side, a 20 cm vertical opening at the breast has a placket finish of lengthwise added bands on either side, and closes with four buttons. The placket on the right side, which features the buttonholes, is bordered by handmade dark-beige lace of opposite-facing fan motifs, 1.3 cm wide. The lace also trims the circular neckline, over a low machine-sewn fabric band, 1 cm high. The simple hem of the chemise measures 1-1.5 cm.

The sleeves are affixed to the body with a curved joint. They consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam and have a simple hem.

The chemise is entirely machine-sewn. It is part of a woman’s attire, typical of the Karpasia region, which also includes the following garments: sayia ΜΓ 419, vradjin (pantaloon) ΜΓ 421, scarf ΜΓ 422 and kouroukla (headdress) with sequins ΜΓ 423. These were made on the loom in 1984 by Martha Hadjiloizi, originating  from Yialousa, and are replicas of old garments from Karpasia.

Height: 114 cm.

Width: 45 cm on the shoulders, 83 cm at the base.

Sleeve length: 46 cm.

Sleeve width: 20.5 cm in the upper part, 16.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 7.2.1985

Provenance: Yialousa – Purchase.

ΜΓ 419

Loom-woven saya of striped aladjia.

Fine vertical warp stripes in black, white and yolk-yellow crisscross with thin and sparse horizontal weft stripes in yellow, maroon, green, light blue, blue, and red. In the lower part of the garment, alternating horizontal stripes in the same colours become dense. At the front of the saya, this colourful lower section equals approximately the height of the two side openings (48 cm), while on the back side it begins higher up, reaching a total height of 68 cm.

The front piece of fabric seamlessly continues to the back. Two long and narrow triangular panels, placed under each sleeve, are joined to each other in the upper part, along a height of 30 cm, and then separate across the side opening of the saya, reaching down to the hem (opening length: 47-48.5 cm). Each added piece is hemmed across its sides, internally.

The rectangular breast opening extends vertically down to the hem (opening height: 48 cm). The sleeves, vertically sewn to the body, are fashioned from a single fabric piece with an inseam. The aladjia stripes run horizontally on the sleeves, while the sparse colourful stripes appear vertically. Gussets of four triangular fabric pieces,  paired diagonally on each sleeve (joint length: 16 cm), allow for ease of movement. A 23 cm slit extends along the lower part of the sleeves, which is lined with a multicoloured printed fabric featuring colourful floral motifs against a black ground. The lining is secured with double diagonal machine stitchings in black. These intersect each other in an X-shape, and are visible on the outside of the garment.

The entire neckline is lined with a band of the sleeve lining fabric (width: 6 cm). The garment’s openings, sleeve edges, and bottom hem are trimmed with an appliqué decorative edging, of a ready-made black wavy band [τρέσα]. The same edging also decorates the horizontal opening of a small inside pocket (length: 6 cm), placed near the base of the rectangular breast opening, on the right side. This five-sided pocket features a pointed lower end. It is made of the same loom-woven fabric as the saya, added on the inner side of the garment. On the outer side of the saya, the pocket is delimited by machine stitchings using blue thread.

This garment replicates an old saya. It is unworn, and more recently made using a sewing machine. It forms part of a woman’s ensemble, typical of the Karpasia region, which also includes the following garments: chemise ΜΓ 420, pantaloons (long drawers) ΜΓ 421, scarf ΜΓ 422 and kouroukla (headdress) ΜΓ 423. These were made on the loom in 1984 by Martha Hadjiloizi, originating from Yialousa, and are replicas of old garments from Karpasia.

Height: 117 cm.

Width: 51 cm.

Sleeve width: 20 cm.

Sleeve length: 53.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 7.2.1985

Provenance: Yialousa – Purchase. 

ΜΓ 404 

Long, long-sleeved foustanin that reaches almost to the mid-calf, made of thick cotton alatzia with fine stripes alternating between red and green against a beige background. According to the Registry of the Yeroskipou Museum, the alatzia was woven in Farmakas by Vaseilou Ioannou, between 1928 and 1930.

The foustanin consists of a bodice and a wide skirt that gathers densely around the waist. The joint is covered by an added waistband, sewn to the body. The upper front part of the dress consists of two panels with seams on the shoulders (height: 29.5 cm, maximum width: 30 cm), that extend sideways underarms. The rest of the back is covered by a single trapezoid gore, 36.5 wide on the shoulders and 24 cm wide at the waist, above the waistband. The circular neckline of the dress fastens at the base of the neck with a spring and extends down to a vertical opening, 21 cm in height, which fastens with another two springs.

The added waistband, 3 cm in height, is created with the same fabric, its stripes in horizonal arrangement. Its right end extends to a length of 10 cm beyond the central vertical opening and fastens with a hook on the left side. On the same side, beneath the waistband, the skirt features a vertical, 11 cm-tall opening.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. They are sewn to the body along a curved line and taper towards the edges, where they end in a broad hem. The entire bodice, including the sleeves, are lined with beige fabric.

The skirt comprises five joined vertical panels. Two panels are 38 cm wide, while the rest of them are 33.5 cm, 39 cm and 38.5 cm wide. The skirt ends in a 2 cm-tall hem. Two parallel horizontal bands of red woven textile, 1 cm in height and 1 cm apart, made through a combination of red and white yarn, are sewn-on at 10.5 cm over the hem. At 3.5 cm from the upper red band, the fabric of the skirt is folded over inwards, creating a horizontal 1.5 cm-tall tuck all around, unstitched at the bottom end.

Fine stripes of the same red fabric run around the waistband, whereas a band of the same fabric reinforces the neckline externally and continues vertically to the right side of the vertical opening on the breast. The opening is flanked by another two vertical bands, 1-1.5 cm wide, of a different bias-cut fabric, with dark-coloured and deep red stripes. At the edge of each sleeve, a cuff is crafted with a sewn-on band of the same fabric.

All seams are machine stitched, using mostly black thread. The bands of red woven textile on the neckline, the vertical breast opening and the skirt are secured with stitching using white thread.

The foustanin stands out for its meticulous making. The decoration featuring textiles in vibrant red is paired with the red stripe on the alatzia.

Height: 113 (bodice up to the waistband: 33 cm, skirt: 80 cm). 

Width: 36.5 cm on the shoulders, 93 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 51 cm.

Width of sleeves: 18 cm in the upper part, 11.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 13.6.1984

Provenance: Farmakas, Nicosia – Purchased from Vaseilou Ioannou.

ΜΓ 387

Women’s pantaloons of thick loom-woven cotton, adorned with cross-stitch embroidery at their lower ends.

Each leg’s front consists of a single fabric panel, reaching from top to bottom, and extending to the outer back side. At the back, an additional fabric section (width: 21.5 cm and 11 cm at the gathered bottom) is joined to the front leg piece with handmade vertical seams, one along the inner thigh and another externally. At the crotch, between the two legs, a square piece of fabric (side length: 41 cm) is placed diagonally, forming two triangular sections, one at the front and one at the back. The handmade seams of this piece feature a low hem, measuring 0.3-0.8 cm in width.

To secure the pantaloons, a gathering string runs through the 1 cm hem, around the lower end of each leg. The embroidered decoration reaches a height of 13.5 cm and develops in successive horizontal bands, defined by single black cross-stitch lines. Along the bottom part, a 2 cm-tall band contains a row of oblique, double cross-stitch lines in red on one leg and in alternating red and black on the other. A broader central band, 6.5 cm tall, features a black zig-zag line that creates two rows of consecutive opposite-facing triangles. All triangles are filled with small squares (side length: 0.5 cm) alternating between red and black in diagonal rows. Small triangles extend along the sides of the bigger ones. This pattern creates a solid embroidered zone where the white loom fabric subtly peeks through small interstices. Further up, a low band, measuring 2 cm in height, contains a row of lozenges alternating between red and black (side length: 2 cm). At the top, 2.5 cm-tall stylized floral motifs, resembling palm trees (foinitzies), consist of a triangle above a lozenge. These motifs rest on a black cross-stitch line. At the back of each leg, the embroidery is interrupted at the width of the added fabric section. This part is decorated with two sapling motifs, one red and the other black (height: 7-8 cm). The red motif on one leg resembles the black motif on the other.

The pantaloons gather around the waist, which features a 3 cm-tall hem casing with a bulky drawstring of thick braided cotton yarn, measuring 1 cm in width.

Height: 84 cm.

Waist width: 36 cm (gathered).

Leg width: (in the upper part) (in the lower part).

Date of entry to the Collection: 8.7.1983

Provenance: Theletra, Pafos – Purchased from Despoinou Nikola.

ΜΓ 311

A woman’s long, sleeved chemise, made of thick, loom-woven off-white cotton. It is similar to chemise ΜΓ 313.

The central part of the garment front and back, consists of a single fabric panel, 44-45 cm wide. A large trapezoid gore, 7.5 cm wide in the upper part and 22 cm in the lower, extends under the right sleeve. It is framed by two triangular gores, one at the front of the chemise, 52 cm high and 16 cm wide, and one at the back, 52 cm high and 115 cm wide. Another large, trapezoid gore, 9 cm wide in the upper part and 43 cm wide in the lower part, has been added under the left sleeve. This is again framed by two equally sized, small triangular gores, 24-25 cm high and 3-4 cm wide. Across the handmade joints, the different garment segments end in bulky hems. Τhe chemise is gathered all around the bottom, ending in a spiral finish of dense stitches.

A low band collar, 2 cm high, is lined internally and externally with cotton fabric featuring dark beige stripes: two narrower stripes flanking a wider one. At the neck base there is a loop which must have been used to fasten the opening with a missing button or hook. The opening continues to the breast, at a height of 12 cm from the neck base down. Across the opening, the gathered fabric has a spiral finish of dense stitches.

The long sleeves consist of a single piece of fabric with an inseam. They are sewn vertically to the body, hemmed at the joint (width: 0.5 cm). Their bottom part is densely gathered and narrow, with a spiral finish similar to that on the rest of the garment’s openings.

Height of chemise: 107.5 cm.

Width: 46 cm on the shoulders, …. (at the base).

Sleeve length: 44 cm.

Sleeve width: 22-23 cm in the upper part, 8 cm at the ruched opening.

Date of entry to the Collection: 13.9.1980

Provenance: Polemi, Pafos – Purchased from Ioannis Theodosiou.

ΜΓ 306

Waistcoat preserved in very good condition, made of the same type of alatzia as the previous waistcoat and of thick cotton dimity lining.

The back consists of a single fabric panel that extends to the two front pieces (height: 59 cm on the front and at the back [overall 118 cm], width at the waist: 41.5 cm). Two triangular gores have been added at the front opening (bottom side: 16.5 cm, inner long side: 50 cm, outer long side: 48 cm). A low upright collar, 2 cm in height, consists of double alatzia. The small triangular side openings at the lower end of the waistcoat, measure 3 cm in height.

On the right side of the breast, a rectangular pocket (maximum height: 19.5 cm, width: 14 cm) terminates at a pointed bottom end. The pocket is formed with added lining. An oblong piece of the alatzia fabric (length: 7.5 cm) covers the inside of the horizontal pocket opening, to hide the lining.

The long sleeves of the garment consist in the upper part of an oblong rectangular piece of fabric (width: 6.5 cm) which extends to the front and the back. Its bottom sides are sewn to two small triangular segments (gussets), joined lengthwise at the armpits. The remaining part of the sleeves is formed by a single piece of fabric with an inseam. At the lower inner end of the sleeves there is a diagonal slit, 6 cm high. Lining at the bottom edge of the sleeves, 5 cm high, consists of the same alatzia, with the stripes in the same direction. When the waistcoat was worn, the stripes of the alatzia on the sleeves appeared horizontal.

Six ready-made cords terminating at metal tips like shoelaces are affixed at the same height: two of them inside, two on the edges of the opening and two externally, on the inner sides of the triangular segments that cross over. An internal cord is tied to one cord on the edge, and an external cord to the other cord on the edge.

All seams are machine-made.

Height: 59 cm.

Width: 40.5 cm on the shoulders, 41.5 cm at the waist.

Length of sleeves: 48.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19.5 cm at the armpit, 14 cm at the bottom.

Date of entry to the Collection: 13.9.1980

Provenance: Polemi, Pafos – Purchased from Ioannis Theodosiou.

ΜΓ 147

Waistcoat of alatzia with broad burgundy stripes, 0.5 cm wide, alternating with composite bands, 1 cm wide, made of blue, yellow, blue, white, blue, yellow and blue stripes. The waistcoat is lined with beige cotton fabric.

The front part consists of four pieces of alatzia: two triangular gores, one on either side of the garment’s opening (bottom side: 18 cm, inner long side: 48 cm, outer long side: 46 cm), and an additional two pieces that complete the facades and carry on to the upper part of the back, at a height of 27 cm. The lower part of the back consists of thick beige loom-woven cotton fabric (height: 28 cm, width: 40 cm). Further down, on the sides of the waistcoat, there is a 6 cm slit.

A low upright collar, 2 cm tall, has a double seam at the base of the neck and is decorated with consecutive lozenges formed with very dense stitch of white thread, probably machine-made. A similar band with a zig-zag row of machine stitching decorates the outer sides of the front pieces, ending just above the hem (7-8 cm). Simple machine stitching of white thread carries on lower still, as well as around the hem. Black braid sets out at 10.5 cm above the bottom end of the front opening, also extending along the edge of the collar. In the front part of the collar (4 cm on either side of the opening) and along the front opening of the waistcoat, tiny consecutive knots are formed over the braid with added sewn-on cord.

On the right side of the breast, a rectangular inside pocket (height: 17.5 cm, width: 11 cm) is formed with thick cotton lining, dyed blue (indigo). In the upper part of the blue lining, an added, 4 cm tall piece of the alatzia used on the waistcoat, may be discerned through the 6.5 cm long horizontal opening of the pocket. The opening is surrounded by a braid of red and blue threads and a decorative band of machine stitching that includes a zig-zag line within two parallel lines. The rectangular shape of the pocket is delimited all around by white machine stitching. At the centre of the upper side, a three-branched ornament is also made with machine stitching.

The long sleeves are sewn vertically to the body and consist of a single piece of fabric with an inseam. Two gussets have been added at the armpit, joined together lengthwise (seam length: 17 cm). At the lower end of the sleeves, the cuffs are made of a separate piece of fabric, 9 cm tall, lined with alatzia other than that of the waistcoat, with blue, red and white stripes. This lining (height: 7.5-8 cm), exposed by the turned-up cuffs, consists of smaller hand-sewn segments. At the bottom end of each sleeve there is a curved-sided opening (height: 8.5 cm). The edge of both sleeves is trimmed with a braid of red and blue threads, the same as the braid along the opening of the pocket. At one point on the sleeve opening, the threads of the braid form a tassel.

This waistcoat shares several features with waistcoat Number 89: same fabric, same trimmings along the edges (machine stitched bands and added braids) and on the pocket. These similarities suggest that the two garments were most likely a set or, at the very least, the work of the same person.

Height: 57 cm.

Width: 41.5 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist.

Length of sleeves: 49.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17.5 cm in the upper part, 15 cm at the bottom.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1978

Provenance: [Undefined] – Purchase.