Yeroskipou Folk Art Museum

ΜΓ 17

A woman’s sarka of blue wool woven fabric with appliqué needlework.

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric piece that extends to the two front panels. Two additional pieces are attached below the deep oval breast opening (height: 30 cm, width: 18 cm): a triangular section on the left side (height: 23 cm, width: 11 cm on the lower side), and a rectangular one on the right (sides’ length: 17.5 and 14 cm). The sarka is double-breasted, fastening at the base of the oval opening with a vertical row of five deep-red braided buttons, paired to loops (height of buttoned section: 10 cm, lower end to hem distance: 14 cm). The rectangular overlapping section closes with a braided button in the upper corner. Slits on the sides of the garment measure 8 cm and 6.5 cm in height.

A beige braid trimming the neckline reaches down to the button that secures the rectangular overlap on the right side, whereas on the left it continues along the oblique side of the additional triangular section, reaching to a height of 10 cm below the oval opening. Needlework edging of yellow silk thread and gold thread flanks the braid. The outer edging, namely a fine band featuring continuous arches, runs along the oval opening and the upper side of the crossed-over closure. The inner edging, namely a broader band with consecutive solid circular leaves or fans(?), extends down to the buttoned section.

The sleeves are vertically sewn to the body, comprising a single fabric piece with an inseam and two gussets, joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 13 and 15 cm).  A 24 cm opening at the lower part of the sleeves is trimmed with an inner braid and an outer needlework edging of continuous arches, similar to that on the breast. Up to approximately the height of the opening (27 cm above the bottom edge), the sleeve ends feature a lining of imported blue cotton with woven yellowish and white floral motifs. Other than this, the garment is lined with off-white loosely-woven cotton.

Height: 54 cm.

Width: 46 cm at the waist, 42 cm under the sleeves, 43.5 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 59 cm.

Sleeve width: 15-16 cm in the upper part, 12 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 15

A pair of pantaloon edgings (povradjia), each made of a rectangular piece of beige cotton woven fabric, adorned with dense (pefkoto) loom embroidery in blue and red (decoration height: 21.5 cm). The embroidery comprises consecutive lozenges of blue thread with a red filling, which has faded in places. Along the upper side of the embroidered section, a fine horizontal band measuring 1.5 cm in height features a continuous zig-zag line (design known as the kamaroua) of red thread, within a blue border. On one of the two edgings, this design is discernible up to a point, beyond which the threads have faded. Resting on the band are 17 small vertical axes, crowned with alternating red and blue lozenges (height: 2.5 cm). One of the edgings has been cut across this side, so that only the axes survive. The same edging is hemmed on one of its long sides and one of its narrow sides, whereas the other is hemmed on one of its narrow sides. The embroidery colours, red and blue, are much more vibrant on the back side of the edgings that have not been exposed to the light.

Height: 25 cm and 25.5 cm.

Length: 49.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Droushia, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 11

Vest of woven cotton alatzia fabric with fine stripes in a combination of red and white on a dark blue/black ground. On the inside, the vest is entirely lined with off-white cotton fabric. Fabric of a similar type is used externally too, in the lower part of the back.

The vest has a circular neckline with a low upright collar, measuring 2.5 cm in height, from added fabric. The edge of the collar is trimmed with a couched black braid. A vertical opening extends from the neckline to the waist. The two front panels of the vest, of striped alatzia, extend to the back to cover the upper part, at a height of 15.5-17 cm. The rest of the back consists of off-white cotton fabric (height: 35 cm, width: 47.5 cm), joined to the front panels with vertical seams beneath the armpits. In the lower part of the side seams, an opening of a height of 4 cm is formed. All visible seams are handmade with black thread. Along the collar, on the inside of the vest, a stitch in the shape of a zig-zag line is discernible.

On either side of the vertical opening, a black tress/band of 33-33.5 cm is sewn to the upper part. On the right side of the breast, the tress has fifteen loops of fine black cord, frayed at several points. The loops are sewn at more or less equal intervals to the outer end of the tress. Black woven buttons, of which nine remain, correspond to the loops on the opposite side of the opening.

On the right part of the breast, a pocket has a 7 cm long horizontal opening, trimmed with black cord, with a small tassel at the middle of the upper side. On the inside of the vest, the rectangular shape of the pocket may be discerned (length: 14 cm, width: 10 cm). The pocket is made of blue-white plaid woven textile.

Height: 50 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Pegeia, Pafos – Donation.

Double-breasted waistcoat made of velvet, which is brown at the back and figured on the front with floral patterns in black, green and lilac colour. The back is made of one piece (44x52cm), while the sides of the waistcoat under the openings of the arms consist of two pieces of velvet, similar to that of the back. The back has a vertical slit (26cm) in the middle, and this opening is cross-fastened with a lace passing through loops, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (25cm); then the front piece becomes narrower downwards. There are five spherical, plaited, black buttons on either side, which are obliquely sewn on the cloth and correspond to buttonholes, thus allowing the crossing over the chest on either side.  The buttonholes are surrounded with gold braid, which decorates also the seams, the openings around the arms and the neck, also the hemline of the waistcoat. On the upper part of the chest, below the opening, golden braids formed spiral decorative patterns, which are poorly preserved. On the right side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of red broadcloth and light brown velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, and its outline is accentuated with twisted threads, which also decorate the seams of the waistcoat. The lining is made of white cotton cloth, while the neckline and the opening of the chest are reinforced with a green ribbon sewn on the inside. This is an old (late 19th/early 20th century) example of a festive waistcoat, very similar to that worn by a villager in the fair of Agios Irakleidios, in a photograph of 1895 (Max and Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter, 1895). Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv.no. 37).

A gold-embroidered sarka made of dark blue felt. It is open at the front and has a short collar around the neck. The sleeves are long and straight, with triangular insets of cloth (pomanika) giving width to the underarms. The jacket is decorated with gold-embroidered floral patterns, an elaborate combination of symmetrical spiralling branches with leaves and stylized flower ornaments. On both sides of the front part there is a big, lahouri-shaped stylized composite floral motif with a rosette in its centre. The fine, intricate embroidery, undoubtedly the work of a talented craftsman, decorates the cuffs, the neck collar, the front opening and the hemline of the jacket. The decoration is completed with a thin golden braid, which forms a borderline all around the edges. The lining of the sarka is made of a cotton cloth in light blue colour.   Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 39).

A sarka, woman’s jacket made of felt in dark blue colour. It has a deep opening at the front and, in contrast to most other examples, this sarka is long enough to reach below the waist; at its lower part the opening closes with five small plaited buttons, and below them there is an extension of the right front, which overlaps the left lower part and closes there with one button.  The back and the front part of the sarka are made of a single piece of cloth, while for the cross-over two other small pieces (16x14 cm) have been added on the front. Furthermore, two small loxes (gores) have been set into the sides of the sarka for width, and for the same purpose there is an opening of 8 cm in each side. The sleeves are long and vertically sewn on the body. On the inner side of their lower part there is a long slit, through which one can see the lining; it is made of a fabric with small flower patterns on a dark background, and covers only the lower part of the sleeves, while the rest of the jacket is lined with common beige cotton cloth. The underarms of the sleeves have additional pomanika, triangular insets that give width, thus facilitating the movements. The opening at the front, the seams and the edges of the sleeves have sewn-on gold decoration. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 17).

A sarka, woman’s waist-long jacket with a deep opening at the front, close-fitting bodice and long sleeves. It is made of imported silk fabric with floral patterns, branches with leaves on a lilac background interspersed with golden dots. A thin golden ribbon decorates the front opening all around the neck, and the hemline of the jacket. The lining of the sarka is made of beige cotton fabric. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. no. 19).

Amalia type costume

Amalia type costume. This example is composed of three pieces: a) a long-sleeved foustani  (dress which used to be worn over a chemise) with a deep opening at the bust and a long skirt with rich folds gathered at the waistline. It is made of an imported fabric with thin stripes in gold and black (or dark blue) colour. A gold decorative strap is sewn on around the waist, on the edge of the sleeves and on the hemline of the dress. b) the foustani is combined with the sarka, a waist-long jacket made of dark blue felt. It has long, straight sleeves and a short collar around the neck. The collar, the front opening, the hemline and the cuffs of the sarka have sewn-on gold decoration, which is completed with two impressive stylized floral (lahouri) patterns, one on either side of the front. Gold-embroidered felt or velvet jackets were made by tailors in Nicosia. c) a fessin (fez) a red cap with a long tassel fixed on its top; the tassel is made of black silk threads. This ensemple, dated to the first decades of the 20th century, is an example of the urban Amalia costume, as it survived in the Cypriot rural centres. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. nos 69, 71, 72).

Foustani, a garment made of colourful striped imported fabric. The sleeveless bodice has a low-cut opening which becomes narrower as it extends towards the waist. The skirt is long with many folds at the waistline. The opening of the bodice has a black trimming all around its edges. The lining of the bodice is made of beige cotton fabric, which is visible through the opening at the chest.

Geroskipou  Folk Art Museum (inv.no 40).      

Traditional woman’s costume of Paphos

The costume comprises the following dress items: ypokamison, (chemise worn as undercloth), sayia (a long-sleeved coat worn over the chemise), vrakia (baggy trousers, pantaloons), and a mandili tis koxas (kerchief wrapped  around the waist).  The sayia is made of woven striped fabric, alatzia, with alternating red and green stripes on an off-white background. Sayia is open down the front and not cut at the waist. It has a short collar around the neck and a low-cut opening on the chest. Small buttons close part of the garment above the waist. On the right upper part of the sayia, is found the small opening of a pocket, the outline of which is embroidered. Loxes, gores set into the side of the sayia, at its lower part, add more width, thus facilitating walking. The long sleeves of the sayia have a slit on the inner side of their lower part, through which the ending of the sleeves of the chemise are visible. The chemise is made of woven, off-white fabric, which is the natural colour of cotton, and has a vertical opening on the chest. Around the neck, it is decorated with fine, simple lace. The vrakia are long and tied around the ankles. The poinarka, their lower, visible part, are ornamented with ploumia tis voufas (loom embroidery) in blue and red patterns. Red, extracted from rizari, and blue, extracted from indigo, used to be the oldest colours used in woven embroidery. The kerchief around the waist is made of thin cloth in yellow colour, decorated with printed floral designs. The costume is complemented with a silver splinga (Provençal espingla, French épingle = pin), an ornament composed of thin chains and small coins or other attachments, which decorates the chest. The chains of the splinga end in tiny hooks, which are attached on the sayia, one on each shoulder, while a pin with a small round filigree head is closing the opening of the chemise in the middle of the chest.    

The costume is dated to the first decades of the 20th century. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum.