cotton

Inv. No. EE 1678: Doublettin (white pleated skirt worn as a mantle) made of thin white cotton fabric (hases). It consists of one piece of cloth measuring 82 cm. in width, and another two pieces, each 263 cm. wide. Its total width is 6.08 m. Its folds are gathered in dense pleats at the top, where they are covered by a cotton cloth, forming an upright thick "collar". The surface of the latter (4 cm. wide) is decorated with drawn-thread white embroidery featuring an arch pattern on the one side, and continuous lozenges containing smaller ones on the other side. Along the two narrow and the top long sides there is a fringe of small tassels with red, green, pink and honey-coloured glass beads (petroues = small stones) at their base.

The doublettin, a characteristic element of Karpasia’s festive dress, has the peculiar decoration met in local embroideries and costumes. This pleated mantle was worn over the sayia. A second pleated garment, the red-coloured routziettin, was also worn over the back as a mantle, but was mainly used as a skirt in bridal and festive costumes, along with the sarka. The red mantle was worn by young women, while older women wore the doublettin. Few specimens are preserved in museums today, yet the way doublettin was worn can be seen in old photographs (photo of the Benaki Museum Archive no. 30210, and Hadjimichali 1954, pl. 85; see also Papademetriou 1991, 17 fig. 4).

Length of doublettin: 99cm. width of collar: 34 cm.

Hadjimichali 1983, 383 fig. 410, 396 fig. 425; Papantoniou 2000, 175 fig. 237

Inv. No. EE 117: Female costume from Karpasia, consisting of a chemise (EE 951), a black inner headscarf (EE 2567), baggy pantaloons (vratzia, EE 1586) and a sayia (EE 1623). The costume also comprises a deep red, stamped headscarf (EE 2568), worn loose over the black one, as well as black socks (EE2200), and black leather shoes (EE 2301). Two stamped kerchiefs (EE 3122 and EE 3122a) were donated along with this costume, which was also complemented by earrings (Ea 1885) and a pendant cross (Ea 1884). Donated by Fokion Tanos, Cairo 1948. Hadjimichali 1983, 383, fig. 410.

Inv. No. EE 951: Long chemise made of silk and cotton, woven taiston fabric, namely with puckered bands along the warp, which result in vertical stripes on the woven fabric. The chemise consists of two pieces of fabric, with an additional gore (loxa) on each side and simple stitched joints. The front and back are made of a single piece, without seams at the shoulders. The sleeves, long with a vertical seam, have stitched ends. The chemise’s vertical opening along the chest closes with two mother-of-pearl buttons. Length: 98 cm. Publication: Hadjimichali 1983, 389, fig. 417.

Inv. No. EE 2567: Black scarf made of thin cotton cloth (kouroukla), with a selvage along two of its four sides. The other two sides have no finish. The scarf served as an inner headcover (skoufoma). Women wore an inner headscarf, which they covered with a second scarf, worn on top.

Inv. No. EE 2200: Pair of black cotton, woven socks.

Inv. No. 2301: Pair of shoes made by a shoemaker (skarparisima). Each one consists of two pieces of leather: one for the round front, and another for the heel counter. The shoes are tied with laces and have a low heel made of sole leather. Simple stitches are employed at the joints.   

Inv. No. EE 1586: Vratzin of woven cotton. The povratzia, stitched at both lower ends of the vratzin and tightened around the ankles, are made of thicker cotton fabric decorated with loom embroideries. The latter cover a zone 24 cm. in height, which is visible under the shirt and the sayia. The embroideries belong to the type of the red embroideries (kotsinoplouma) of the loom and are called pefkota because of their density. Their pattern is the karpasitikon (of the Karpasia area) in its older and more basic colours, namely the red and the black of the dyer (deep blue).  The embroidered decoration further features lazarin (bright yellow), orange, vazanin (deep purple), and brown/cinnamon colours, but also gold made of ttellourka, i.e. metal wires, placed at the choliasmata, that is, in the fillings of the central lozenges. Above the embroidered zone there is a row of stylized palm trees.

A similar design is depicted in: Pieridou 1980, pl. Ιβ; Pieridou 1976, pl. V. Hadjimichali 1983, 388, fig. 415.

Inv. No. EE 1623: Sayia made of alatzia katrelioti, namely white cotton fabric with blue, yellow and reddish-brown stripes in the warp. Reddish-brown and blue stripes are also repeated at intervals in the weft, forming a very sparse plaid pattern. The back and the front parts of the garment are made of the same piece of fabric. A deep square opening at the chest closes with a loop and a button. On both sides of the vertical opening, from the base of the chest to the lower end, additional gores (loxes) widening towards the hem facilitate the crossing of the sayia. Gores are also formed at the side openings. The sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, become wider at their lower end. The hem and all the openings are decorated with a reddish-brown cotton string and a zigzag line embroidered with black thread. The opening of the chest is adorned with eight arch-shaped elements, filled with linear patterns made of gold wire, as well as black, green and reddish-brown silk threads. The design is enriched with scrolls. On both right and left sides, the second from the top arch-shaped elements are embellished with a red cross on a gold background. The surface of the cross is decorated with a zigzag line of yellow thread. On the right side of the chest there is a small pocket with an oval opening.

A similar sayia from Karpasia, dated to the 19th century, plaid, with sewn-on embroidery from arch-shaped elements ​​and crosses, is included in the Collection of the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology at the University of Cambridge (Papademetriou 2000, 111 cat. 3).

Length of sayia: 114 cm. Length of sleeves: 46 cm. Donated by Loukis Pierides.

Publications: Hadjimichali 1983, 392, fig. 418; COSMESIS 1984, cat. 1.

Inv. No. EE 2568: Scarf dyed in reddish-brown (xydin) colour, with stamped decoration. Its four sides are adorned by a band made of printed floral motifs, while at each corner there is a wreath with leaves and flowers. All designs are similar to those of the other scarves of the collection. Particularly interesting is the pipilla, needle lace along the edges, made of silk threads. Its design comprises small flowers with five white petals around a yellow-coloured centre, and a leaf in olive-green colour.

Inv. No. EE 4324: Man’s waistcoat (yelekkin) made of striped cloth (alatzia) in blue, yellow and light brown (siettarin) colours. The back of this sleeveless overgarment consists of a single piece of cloth that is stitched at the sides, under the armpits, to the two front pieces, leaving two small openings at the lower part. The waistcoat has a vertical opening at the front, along the chest, and a small collar, all bordered with a blue twisted string that also forms loops for the fastening buttons, again in blue colour. The string also extends along part of the horizontal lower edge of the yelekkin. A similar string decorates the opening of a pocket, placed at the middle of the opening along the chest. The edges of the arm openings are stitched with blue thread. Both sides of the vertical opening of the waistcoat, as well as the collar, are decorated near their edge with a sewn-on weft band. The latter consists of red, yellow and blue threads and is bordered by a zig zag line made of blue thread. A similar line also borders the decorated pocket opening. The waistcoat is lined with white cotton cloth, while the pocket has a striped cloth (alatzia) lining, featuring blue, red and white colours. Dimensions: 20x20 cm. It belonged to the collection of Angeliki Pieridou and was donated to the Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pieridou , in 1981.

Inv. No. EE 4322: Man’s waistcoat (yelekkin), probably from Karavas or Lapithos, made of cotton striped cloth (alatzia) in bright colours (red, yellow, white, light green etc.). The back and the sides are made of a single piece of cloth that is stitched at the shoulders and the sides to the two pieces of the front part. The latter extend to angular edges and cross over the chest, forming a U-shaped opening. The yelekkin is fastened by seven diagonally-arranged round buttons made of silk twisted string. A vase-shaped pocket is sewn at the right front side of the waistcoat. It is made of black broadcloth at the upper part and (trimmed) velvet at the lower, and its outline is adorned with strings and braids of twisted threads (gaitania, bobbins). Similar decoration is applied along the edges and the openings of the waistcoat.

Spiral decorative motifs of black twisted threads and strings extend along the openings at the chest and along the centre of the back. The latter opening is cross-fastened by means of a yellow rubber lace (probably a later addition), which passes through holes with sequins and is tied at the lower end of the garment. The right side of the chest features a composite decorative element with lozenges, braids and chequered motifs made of orange and light blue twisted strings. Similar elements are also found on other waistcoats. The yelekkin is lined with white cotton cloth.

In regard to its design and decoration, this example is similar to the waistcoat belonging to the costume of a Cypriot villager (late 19th century), now part of the National Historical Museum collection (Cypriot Costumes 1999, 147). Dimensions: 47x44 cm.

It belonged to the collection of Angeliki Pieridou and was donated to the Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pieridou, in 1981.   

Inv. No. EE 3122a: Scarf made of thin cotton cloth dyed in green colour, with stamped motifs similar to the ones of Inv. No. 3122 of the Benaki Collection. The lace border (pipilla) comprises continuous green, three-partite branches, ending in a small flower. Green scarves were the first that ceased to be produced in Cyprus: they were worn by young women, who stopped using them in the course of the 20th century, thus causing a drop in demand. This scarf was part of the Karpasia attire Inv. No. EE 117. Only a few examples of green scarves survive in museum collections.   Dimensions: 77x77 cm. Hadjimichali 1983, 394, fig. 422.

Inv. No. EE 3122: Scarf made of thin cotton cloth (kouroukla), dyed in deep red colour (xydin). It is decorated with stamped patterns. Floral designs extend along its edges (kkenarin, from the Turkish word kenar = edge), while its four corners are further adorned with a neoclassical motif, namely a wreath of leaves and flowers, known as milia. The lace which borders the scarf (pipilla) is made of green silk thread and comprises continuous arched motifs (kamares). Each of these motifs encloses a three-petaled flower with a red-brown knot at its centre.

The stamped wreath motif, known as politiko due to its provenance, was employed at the workshop of Evris Mantilaris from the older days of its operation until it closed down in 2004. However, the same motif was also used by other producers of stamped scarves (mantilarides), who used to add their initials on the mould used during the stamping process (information by Dinos Kakoullis). The initials on this scarf are indistinct. Dimensions: 77x77 cm. Donated by Fokion Tanos, Cairo 1948.

This scarf is part of the Karpasia attire Inv. No: EE 117  [Cat. No. 85.] Publication Hadjimichali 1983, 394, fig. 423.

 Inv. No. EE 4083: Vratzin (long and loose pantaloon worn as underwear) made of cotton. The lower ends, the povratzia, are made of thick cotton loom-woven cloth, covered with embroideries. The vratzin consists of seven pieces: one long, curving piece for the crotch, two similar pieces for the front and the back of the upper part of the garment - these also extend lower while becoming narrower -, two similar pieces for the sides, that cover the area of the thighs at the front and the back, and the two embroidered povratzia at the lower ends. At the upper edge the fabric is folded and sewn, so as for the white cotton vrakozonin (belt) to pass through the hem and secure the vratzin by tying around the waist.

The multicoloured embroideries of the povratzia are arranged in 17 vertical bands featuring consecutive stylized robust floral motifs, made by applying single stiches, regular or long-armed cross stiches, stem stiches and other types of stiches for solid filling. The aforementioned vertical bands alternate with 16 narrower bands, which consist of white open-work embroideries with a deep red or brown frame alternately. The colours of the embroideries vary: brown, green, yellow/golden, light blue, red/deep red. A stem stich made of red silk thread extends along and accentuates the joints between the two vertical edges of each embroidered piece and the thinner fabric of the vratzin. Similar stiches are found along other joints at the lower part of the garment and are also used for decorative purposes. At their lower ends, the povratzia are tightened around the ankles by a girdle, while at their inner side there is an opening which appears to have featured a button fastening. The buttons do not survive.

It is worth noting that the povratzia, made by a thicker embroidered cloth, were preserved for a longer time than the rest of the underwear and, when the latter perished, they were sewn onto a new one. Height: 90 cm., Width at the waist: 85 cm. Embroidered surface: 18x36 cm.

Inv. No. EE 4325: Povratzia, woven cotton fabric with loom embroideries made of hand-woven cotton threads in red, blue, light blue and yellow colours. The decoration is similar to the one found on povratzia no. 26134 of the Benaki Collection. The solid pefkoton feggaroton design, which characterises the lower ends of the vratzia worn as part of the Karpasia and Pafos female attire with sayia, consists of 18 vertical rows with consecutive lozenges in alternating blue and red colours. The big lozenges contain four smaller ones, each with a yellow coloured inside filling. Stylized trees, foinitzies (=palm tree) in a row, decorate the top long side of each povratzin. The bottom long side is sewn with a hem, and at the same side a decorative band made of two blue weft lines and a red one in the middle, extend along the edge of the embroidered area. Along their top long side, the two pieces of cloth are sewn together. Their narrow sides have been cut and at the one side of each piece another small piece of cotton cloth has been stitched. Dimensions: 54x25x42 cm. Width of embroidered surface: 44 cm. Publications: to add p. 102

no. 69 Inv. No. 26134: Povratzia from Pafos. The two identical, rectangular pieces of woven cotton are covered with pefkota (=dense as in carpets, the word deriving from the Greek word επεύχιον (epefchion, peftzin in the Greek-Cypriot dialect) loom embroideries, made of finger-woven cotton threads. Blue and red are the basic featured colours, while light yellow/beige and light blue are used as complementary. Remains of metallic thread are still preserved at certain points of the decoration.

The decorative pattern, which covers the whole surface of each povratzin, consists of rows of consecutive lozenges, in alternating red and blue colours. Each lozenge contains four smaller ones, the interior of which is of lighter colour or is made of shiny metallic thread, having a red or blue dot in the middle.

12 vertical rows of lozenges survive on each povratzin. A horizontal row of stylized trees, foinikoudes (= palm trees), in alternating red and blue colours, extends at the top, long side of both povratzia. Along the edges of each povratzin there are also three horizontal weft lines. Two of them are blue, while the one in-between is red. Dimensions: 45x30 cm.; 45x31 cm.

The povratzia belonged to the collection of Angeliki Pieridou  and were donated to Benaki Museum by George and Marina Pierides in 1981.

A similar embroidery with a feggaroto pattern is featured in: Pieridou 1980, pl. XXIγ; Pieridou 1976, pl. III. Such embroideries are usually found at the lower ends of vratzia (= baggy pantaloons worn by women as underwear), which were part of the Karpasia and Pafos female attire. Obviously, the povratzia presented here had a similar use.

Dark burgundy headscarf made of fine cotton fabric. All around the edges, there is a dense printed decoration of 21 repeated floral compositions in a variety of closely arranged, extremely delicate flowers. The floral motifs appear in green, blue, brown and white colours, and stand out vividly against the deep-coloured background. The four corners are occupied by a larger composition of similar flowers and leaves, framed by two smaller bouquets. The smaller of these motifs is repeated eight times. The centre of the headscarf features a wreath with a diameter of 43 cm., consisting of six bouquets, similar to those that frame the corner patterns. The edges of the headscarf are decorated with a fine sewn-on band of golden thread.

This is an imported headscarf, which most likely comes from a workshop in the region of Bosphorus – either from Nihori on the western coast or from Kandilli on the eastern coast.

Dimensions: length 105 cm., width 110 cm.

The three headscarves from the workshops of the Bosphorus have been identified with the help of the researcher Soula Bozi.