cotton

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 89

A man’s double-breasted vest of cotton alatzia with stripes of different thickness in burgundy, blue, yellow and white. The lining that covers the entire vest on the inside is made of beige cotton fabric.

Each of the two front parts of the garment consists of two fabric panels: the outer panel, that crosses when the vest is closed, is triangular (height: 45-47.5 cm, hypotenuse: 44 cm, base: 17 cm); the inner panel is rectangular, with the curved cut of the armhole in its upper part. The rectangular side panels of the front continue as a single panel at the back, forming the upper part of the back at a height of 27 cm. Lower down, the back is completed with a densely-woven cotton fabric (height: 26.5 cm, width: 42 cm). On either side of the vest, there is a 7 cm long opening. 

An upright reinforced collar, 1.5 cm in height, is decorated with machine stitching of white thread forming consecutive lozenges. The collar is trimmed externally by black cord that reaches a little above the lower edge of the opening (9 cm above the edge). At the triangular opening of the breast, it is externally reinforced by a cord with tiny button-shaped elements. Decorative bands of machine-made stitches, with a zig-zag line between two parallels, extend along the outer end of the rectangular panels and the diagonal side of the triangular panels, at the opening of the vest.

A pocket on the right side is lined internally in the section of the horizontal opening, with a piece of alatzia fabric at a height of 4 cm (pocket height: 16 cm, pocket width: 13 cm, length of external opening: 6 cm). The horizontal opening is decorated with blue-red braid and trimmed with a band featuring a zig-zag line between parallel lines, all made of off-white machine stitches. At the centre of the upper side of the opening, a tri-branched schematized vegetal ornament is also formed with machine stitches.

Red and blue braid also surrounds the armholes. The centre of the back of each opening is decorated with a tassel of frayed braid.

On the bottom edge of the vest, the hem is handmade with blue and white thread, whereas along the armholes and around the opening of the neck, machine stitches may be discerned.

Height: 56 cm.

Width: 31.5 cm on the shoulders, 47 cm at the waist (folded).

Date of entry to the Collection: 1978

Provenance: Theletra, Pafos – Purchase.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 23

A beige cotton pantaloon edging, rectangular with the upper corners cut off.

 

The edging’s dense (pefkoto) embroidery comprises three distinct designs, all in blue and red. The central, largest section (length: 35.5 cm, height: 22.5 cm) showcases a design made of lozenges, with single smaller lozenges in their corners. All motifs have a blue outline and a red filling, with single tiny blue lozenges at their centre. The central section is flanked by another two, one on either side. Each edge section displays a different embroidery design. The one on the right (dimensions: 10x9.5x22.5x20 cm) features two rows of successive blue lozenges intersected by a blue line. Between these rows, another row of lozenges in red with a blue centre is intersected by a continuous red line. The outermost sides feature half lozenges in red with a blue filling. On the left section (dimensions: 12x16x12x21.5 cm), continuous lozenges with a blue outline and a red filling contain two tiny blue lozenges each. On the two longer sides, the embroidery ends in half lozenges.

 

A blue braid finish survives, sewn along 10 cm on the upper left side of the central section. The other three sides preserve plain fabric without embroidery. The widest plain fabric side likely served as the gathering part of the pantaloons.

 

At the back, the raw edges of the threads used for the handmade embroidery hang loose.

 

Height: 25 cm.

Length: 58 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Fyti, Pafos – Donation.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 17

 

A woman’s sarka of blue wool woven fabric with appliqué needlework.

 

The back of the garment consists of a single fabric piece that extends to the two front panels. Two additional pieces are attached below the deep oval breast opening (height: 30 cm, width: 18 cm): a triangular section on the left side (height: 23 cm, width: 11 cm on the lower side), and a rectangular one on the right (sides’ length: 17.5 and 14 cm). The sarka is double-breasted, fastening at the base of the oval opening with a vertical row of five deep-red braided buttons, paired to loops (height of buttoned section: 10 cm, lower end to hem distance: 14 cm). The rectangular overlapping section closes with a braided button in the upper corner. Slits on the sides of the garment measure 8 cm and 6.5 cm in height.

 

A beige braid trimming the neckline reaches down to the button that secures the rectangular overlap on the right side, whereas on the left it continues along the oblique side of the additional triangular section, reaching to a height of 10 cm below the oval opening. Needlework edging of yellow silk thread and gold thread flanks the braid. The outer edging, namely a fine band featuring continuous arches, runs along the oval opening and the upper side of the crossed-over closure. The inner edging, namely a broader band with consecutive solid circular leaves or fans(?), extends down to the buttoned section.

 

The sleeves are vertically sewn to the body, comprising a single fabric piece with an inseam and two gussets, joined lengthwise at each armpit (joint length: 13 and 15 cm).  A 24 cm opening at the lower part of the sleeves is trimmed with an inner braid and an outer needlework edging of continuous arches, similar to that on the breast. Up to approximately the height of the opening (27 cm above the bottom edge), the sleeve ends feature a lining of imported blue cotton with woven yellowish and white floral motifs. Other than this, the garment is lined with off-white loosely-woven cotton.

 

Height: 54 cm.

Width: 46 cm at the waist, 42 cm under the sleeves, 43.5 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 59 cm.

Sleeve width: 15-16 cm in the upper part, 12 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 15

A pair of pantaloon edgings (povradjia), each made of a rectangular piece of beige cotton woven fabric, adorned with dense (pefkoto) loom embroidery in blue and red (decoration height: 21.5 cm). The embroidery comprises consecutive lozenges of blue thread with a red filling, which has faded in places. Along the upper side of the embroidered section, a fine horizontal band measuring 1.5 cm in height features a continuous zig-zag line (design known as the kamaroua) of red thread, within a blue border. On one of the two edgings, this design is discernible up to a point, beyond which the threads have faded. Resting on the band are 17 small vertical axes, crowned with alternating red and blue lozenges (height: 2.5 cm). One of the edgings has been cut across this side, so that only the axes survive. The same edging is hemmed on one of its long sides and one of its narrow sides, whereas the other is hemmed on one of its narrow sides. The embroidery colours, red and blue, are much more vibrant on the back side of the edgings that have not been exposed to the light.

 

Height: 25 cm and 25.5 cm.

Length: 49.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Droushia, Pafos – Donation.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 11

Vest of woven cotton alatzia fabric with fine stripes in a combination of red and white on a dark blue/black ground. On the inside, the vest is entirely lined with off-white cotton fabric. Fabric of a similar type is used externally too, in the lower part of the back.

The vest has a circular neckline with a low upright collar, measuring 2.5 cm in height, from added fabric. The edge of the collar is trimmed with a couched black braid. A vertical opening extends from the neckline to the waist. The two front panels of the vest, of striped alatzia, extend to the back to cover the upper part, at a height of 15.5-17 cm. The rest of the back consists of off-white cotton fabric (height: 35 cm, width: 47.5 cm), joined to the front panels with vertical seams beneath the armpits. In the lower part of the side seams, an opening of a height of 4 cm is formed. All visible seams are handmade with black thread. Along the collar, on the inside of the vest, a stitch in the shape of a zig-zag line is discernible.

On either side of the vertical opening, a black tress/band of 33-33.5 cm is sewn to the upper part. On the right side of the breast, the tress has fifteen loops of fine black cord, frayed at several points. The loops are sewn at more or less equal intervals to the outer end of the tress. Black woven buttons, of which nine remain, correspond to the loops on the opposite side of the opening.

On the right part of the breast, a pocket has a 7 cm long horizontal opening, trimmed with black cord, with a small tassel at the middle of the upper side. On the inside of the vest, the rectangular shape of the pocket may be discerned (length: 14 cm, width: 10 cm). The pocket is made of blue-white plaid woven textile.

Height: 50 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Pegeia, Pafos – Donation.

Translator: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Description: 

Amalia type costume

Amalia type costume. This example is composed of three pieces: a) a long-sleeved foustani  (dress which used to be worn over a chemise) with a deep opening at the bust and a long skirt with rich folds gathered at the waistline. It is made of an imported fabric with thin stripes in gold and black (or dark blue) colour. A gold decorative strap is sewn on around the waist, on the edge of the sleeves and on the hemline of the dress. b) the foustani is combined with the sarka, a waist-long jacket made of dark blue felt. It has long, straight sleeves and a short collar around the neck. The collar, the front opening, the hemline and the cuffs of the sarka have sewn-on gold decoration, which is completed with two impressive stylized floral (lahouri) patterns, one on either side of the front. Gold-embroidered felt or velvet jackets were made by tailors in Nicosia. c) a fessin (fez) a red cap with a long tassel fixed on its top; the tassel is made of black silk threads. This ensemple, dated to the first decades of the 20th century, is an example of the urban Amalia costume, as it survived in the Cypriot rural centres. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. nos 69, 71, 72).

Translator: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Description: 

Foustani, a garment made of colourful striped imported fabric. The sleeveless bodice has a low-cut opening which becomes narrower as it extends towards the waist. The skirt is long with many folds at the waistline. The opening of the bodice has a black trimming all around its edges. The lining of the bodice is made of beige cotton fabric, which is visible through the opening at the chest.

Geroskipou  Folk Art Museum (inv.no 40).      

Translator: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Description: 

Traditional woman’s costume of Paphos

The costume comprises the following dress items: ypokamison, (chemise worn as undercloth), sayia (a long-sleeved coat worn over the chemise), vrakia (baggy trousers, pantaloons), and a mandili tis koxas (kerchief wrapped  around the waist).  The sayia is made of woven striped fabric, alatzia, with alternating red and green stripes on an off-white background. Sayia is open down the front and not cut at the waist. It has a short collar around the neck and a low-cut opening on the chest. Small buttons close part of the garment above the waist. On the right upper part of the sayia, is found the small opening of a pocket, the outline of which is embroidered. Loxes, gores set into the side of the sayia, at its lower part, add more width, thus facilitating walking. The long sleeves of the sayia have a slit on the inner side of their lower part, through which the ending of the sleeves of the chemise are visible. The chemise is made of woven, off-white fabric, which is the natural colour of cotton, and has a vertical opening on the chest. Around the neck, it is decorated with fine, simple lace. The vrakia are long and tied around the ankles. The poinarka, their lower, visible part, are ornamented with ploumia tis voufas (loom embroidery) in blue and red patterns. Red, extracted from rizari, and blue, extracted from indigo, used to be the oldest colours used in woven embroidery. The kerchief around the waist is made of thin cloth in yellow colour, decorated with printed floral designs. The costume is complemented with a silver splinga (Provençal espingla, French épingle = pin), an ornament composed of thin chains and small coins or other attachments, which decorates the chest. The chains of the splinga end in tiny hooks, which are attached on the sayia, one on each shoulder, while a pin with a small round filigree head is closing the opening of the chemise in the middle of the chest.    

The costume is dated to the first decades of the 20th century. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum.

Translator: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Noly Moyssi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Noly Moyssi
Description: 

Foustanin, cotton dress made of striped alatzia fabric. Red, yellow,  and black stripes are formed in the weft against a white background. The garment comprises a wide skirt and a separate bodice, which are joined at the waist. The back consists of a single piece of fabric, with a seam at the back of the shoulders. At the front, two separate pieces, sewn to the sides, form a deep opening, which leaves most of the chest uncovered and continues with a vertical slit reaching just below the waist. The opening closes with three hook-and-eye clasps. The sleeves are narrow and long, with the stripes of the fabric arranged in a horizontal position. Their edge is adorned with a sewn-on brown cord.

Translator: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Noly Moyssi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Noly Moyssi
Description: 

Female, festive sayia from Karpasia, made of thick cotton cloth. The garment is adorned with white embroidery and threaded beads. It was worn over a chemise.

The back and front parts consist of a single fabric panel. At the front, a vertical slit extends all the way down. A deep opening is also formed at the bust, leaving a large part of the chest uncovered. Just below the chest, the sayia closes with  loops and buttons. 

The long and narrow sleeves, sewn vertically to the shoulders, have two additional triangular pieces joined diagonally below each armpit to facilitate movement. The back part below the neck is  lined with white cotton fabric; the same applies for the part surrounding the chest opening, which is embellished with white embroidery in delicate scrolls or zigzag patterns, enriched with threaded red and green petroues (beads). The same embroidery covers the seams of the sleeves at the shoulders and, in a thinner band, the shistres (side openings) of the sayia. Threaded beads decorate also the openings of the sleeves.

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