Yeroskipou Folk Art Museum

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 679

Long, long-sleeved foustanin of cotton alatzia with fine blue stripes against a white ground. Four rows of single green threads run between every pair of stripes.

 

The dress comprises a bodice and a skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. It mirrors the design of the preceeding dresses. The bodice consists of two panels at the front, one on either side of the breast, joined to the back pieces with seams on the shoulders and under the armpits. At the back, two bias-cut pieces of fabric, 12 cm wide, diagonally placed, frame a six-sided central segment with vertical stripes that flares out towards the shoulders. The joints between the different segments are accentuated with double machine stitching using black thread. A band with a continuous zig-zag line decorates the base of the six-sided segment, above the waistband.

 

The round neckline is reinforced with a fine trimming band of the same fabric, with the stripes of the woven textile in horizontal arrangement, hand-sewn and, higher up, with black machine stitching. The opening of the neckline reaches vertically down to the breast up to the waistband (opening height: 23 cm) where it fastens with two hooks. On either side of the opening, the fabric is folded over inwards, creating a reinforced band, decorated with a waistband that includes consecutive lozenges of black machine stitching. Underneath each breast and up to the waistband, the fabric gathers in a fine pleat, sewn internally by hand with black thread and decorated externally with two rows of black machine stitching.

 

The 3 cm-tall waistband consists of a separate piece of fabric with the stripes of the alatzia in horizontal arrangement. The waistband extends to a 10 cm-long overlap to the left of the vertical opening, and fastens on the edge with two hooks. A 14 cm-tall opening is formed underneath the waistband, on the extension of its tip, and continues diagonally. Handmade hem using black thread runs along its edges. A continuous zig-zag line of black machine stitching decorates the entire length of the waistband.

 

The long sleeves are made of a single fabric piece with a seam on the external side of the arm. The stripes of the alatzia converge towards the seam, creating parallel arches. The edge of the sleeves is trimmed with hem and a decorative band that includes a continuous zig-zag line of black machine stitching.

 

The entire bodice (with the exception of the waistband) is lined with ready-made beige cotton fabric. The wide skirt of the dress consists of seven panels of varied widths (5x36, 1x35, 1x25 cm) gathering densely at the waist, where it is reinforced internally by two parallel, also densely gathered bands of different loom-woven striped fabrics and lining pieces (height: 4-6 cm). The dense pleats of the skirt are held in place by two parallel rows of horizontal seams made with white thread. The joint of the skirt to the waistband is handmade.

 

At the lower end of the skirt, an added horizontal band (fasa) of the same bias-cut alatzia fabric, is sewn along its edges with double machine stitching using black thread. Above and below it is framed by three narrow horizontal tucks (one above and two below), secured in their upper part with black machine stitching. The hem of the skirt is turned and reinforced with a band of the same fabric as the lining, 6.5 cm in height, which is secured with double black machine stitching. On the front side of the skirt, the stitching is displayed as decoration.

 

The varied arrangement of the striped fabric on the dress is used as a decorative element. In tandem with its practicality, machine stitching is also used for decoration.

 

Height: 114 cm (bodice: 33 cm up to the waistband, skirt: 81 cm).

Width: 36 cm on the shoulders, 32 cm at the waist, 125 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 44 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17 cm in the upper part and 11 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

 

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

678

Long, long-sleeved foustanin made of thick and heavy silk-cotton (koukkoulariko?) taiston fabric, with clusters of four yellow vertical stripes, alternating with wider, whiter taiston bands against a white background.

 

The design of the dress is identical to that of foustanin ΜΓ 676 and ΜΓ 677. It consists of a bodice and a wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. The upper front of the foustanin consists of two pieces of fabric. At the back, a central six-sided segment, widening towards the shoulders (height: 33 cm, maximum width: 35.5 cm, minimum width: 6.5 cm), is flanked by another two pieces, obliquely sewn. Front and back are joined with seams on the shoulders and under the armpits. The seams are accentuated with double black machine stitching. The entire upper part, including the sleeves, is lined with white cotton fabric.

 

The circular neckline extends to a vertical opening that continues below the waist (total length: 39 cm, 13 cm of which under the waistband). Decorative seams of black machine stitching run around the neckline and along the opening: a simple line around the neckline and, on either side of the vertical opening, a band of straight lines flanking a zig-zag line. The decorative band also extends to the waistband. The fabric gathers with a vertically sewn pleat below each breast and up to the waistband for better fitting at the breast. The pleat is crafted by hand with brown thread and is accentuated with double machine stitching using black thread.

 

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with a seam on the upper external side of the arm. The joint with the shoulder forms a slightly curved line. The edges of the sleeves are covered with blue trimming band, internally and externally.

 

The waistband, which fastens with two hooks, is made of an additional piece of fabric, 3.5 cm-tall, with its stripes in horizontal arrangement. It is lined with stamped fabric, decorated with floral motifs, geometrical patterns and paisleys. A decorative seam made with black machine stitching runs along the upper part of the waistband.

 

The long wide skirt is made of five panels, four of which are 38 cm wide, and the fifth 34 cm wide. Around the upper edge it gathers with dense pleats, held in place by two consecutive parallel seams. The skirt features a black trimming band finish, which now survives in fragments. Internally, around the hem, a band lining, 5.5 cm-tall, is made of the same fabric as the lining of the waistband. Over the hem, two parallel decorative ribbons, one blue (below) and the other purple (above) are secured by hand with basting using brown thread (a line along the middle of each band).

 

All seams are handcrafted, whereas the decorative stitching with black thread is machine made.

 

Even though it appears used, the garment is preserved in very good condition. The traditional design of the dress is identical to that used on other foustania, which are made with various woven textiles.

 

Height: 129,5 cm (bodice: 36.5 cm up to the waistband, skirt: 93 cm).

Width: 35.5 cm on the shoulders, 36 cm at the waist, 114 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 48 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19 cm in the upper part, 12.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ677

Long, long-sleeved foustanin of cotton alatzia with red, green and camel/orange stripes against an off-white ground.

 

The dress includes a bodice and a wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband.

 

The bodice consists of two panels at the front (width: 25-25.5 cm, height 28.5-29 cm), which extend slighthly sideways underarms and are joined to the back panels. Under the breast, on either side, the fabric tapers with a vertical pleat, sewn with double machine stitching in black. The back is formed by three pieces of fabric. The largest one, at the centre, is six-sided (height: 31.5 cm, width on the shoulders: 38 cm, width at the lower end: 5.5 cm) and tapers downwards, where it is adorned with a band, 1.5 cm-tall, wherein runs a zig-zag line. The decoration is crafted with black machine stitching. The oblong side pieces at the back, which flank the central piece and are joined to the two front panels, are made of bias-cut fabric (height: 25 cm. width: 10-10.5 cm). The seams of the pieces are accentuated with double black machine stitching.

 

A vertical opening extends from the neckline to the waistband, at a height of 21.5 cm. It fastens with two hooks, sewn internally, at its base. On either side of the opening, the wide reinforcing hem is adorned with a band that includes two interlaced zig-zag lines of black machine stitching, forming parallel decorative lozenges in a row. A black trimming band finish is featured along the edges of the opening. The trimming band on the right side continues horizontally along the waistband, until its left end.

 

The waistband, 3 cm-tall, is made of a separate piece of the same fabric, with horizontal stripes, and extends to an 11.5 cm long overlap to the left side, where it fastens with two hooks. At centre front, the waistband is adorned with a zig-zag line of machine stitching (total length of decoration: 23 cm). A 12 cm-tall vertical opening is formed under the fastening of the waistband, on the side of the skirt, featuring a hem secured with basting.

 

The sleeves of the dress are formed with a single fabric piece with an external seam along the middle. The stripes of the dress converge obliquely towards the seam. The joint of the sleeves to the body forms a curved line. The bottom edges of the sleeves are reinforced with a hem, accentuated on the long side with double black machine stitching. A black trimming band covers the edge of each sleeve inside and out (total width: 1.5 cm). The entire bodice, including the sleeves, is lined with cotton cabot.

 

The skirt is made of five panels of similar width (42 cm, 45 cm, 2x46 cm and 47.5 cm). The upper part features pleats, sparser at centre front and much denser on the sides and at the back. The fabric of the skirt is folded over at the waist, where there is also an internal reinforcing band of cabot. In the lower part of the skirt, a 7 cm-tall band of cabot is secured with handmade black stitching along the bottom, which features a finish of black trimming band. In the upper part, the band is secured with machine stitching using black thread. At 7 cm over the hem, a purple ribbon, 1 cm wide, is secured with handmade black seam. Slightly up, at 7 cm from the purple ribbon, a black ribbon, 1.5 cm wide, is also hand-sewn.

 

The dress is preserved in very good condition. It stands out for its beautiful, harmonious combination of colours into the weave, its meticulous sewing and fine decoration.

 

Height: 125.5 cm (bodice: 33 cm up to the waist, skirt: 95.5 cm).

Width: 38 cm on the shoulders, 114 cm at the hem.

Length of sleeves: 48 cm.

Width of sleeves: 20 cm on the shoulders, 13 cm at the cuffs.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 676

Long, long-sleeved dress of thick striped cotton alatzia. Three purple stripes alternate with one orange stripe against a white background. At calf height, at the back of the skirt, the alatzia is embellished with additional, symmetrically arranged horizontal stripes into the weft, in maroon, green and orange. The horizontal stripes create a plaid motif with the fabric’s vertical stripes.

 

The dress consists of a bodice and a wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. The bodice consists of two panels at the front and a trapezoid gore at the centre of the back, which extends to the shoulders (maximum width: 38 cm) and, further down, on the sides, it is flanked by two oblong pieces of fabric, 10 cm wide, obliquely sewn. The two front panels are joined to the central gore at the back with a seam on the shoulders, then extend sideways underarms and are joined to the oblong pieces of the back. All the joints of the different pieces are accentuated with double machine stitching of black thread. Double stitching with black thread is also discernible on an overlap under the breast.

 

The long sleeves of the dress are made of a single fabric piece with a seam on the external side, extending the seam that joins the gore at the back to the side panels. The sleeves are attached to the body with a curved joint. They taper at the lower end, where they end in a simple hem.

 

At the centre of the back and at the sleeves, the bodice is lined with thick beige cotton fabric, woven on a loom. The two panels on the breast, the side pieces of the back and the inside of the waistband are lined with a different alatzia than that of the dress, featuring colourful stripes (purple, green, orange) lengthwise on the warp and, in places, on the weft (see the plaid motif created on the left side of the breast and the back).

 

The circular neckline of the dress is reinforced with a piece of the alatzia lining, hand-sewn with beige thread. It extends to a vertical opening, 36 cm-tall, which continues below the waist, at a height of 8.5 cm. No fastening elements have survived. Black and beige basting threads survive on either side.

 

At the waist, a waistband, 4 cm-tall, is made of the alatzia of the dress with its stripes in horizontal arrangement.

 

The long and wide skirt comprises six panels, four of which measure 45 cm in width and the other two 21 cm and 19 cm. In the upper part, the skirt is folded over internally and gathers to form dense pleats, held in place with two horizontal rows of seams using white thread. The skirt ends in a simple hem, 0.5 cm-tall, hand-sewn with black and occasionally beige thread.

 

The dress reproduces the intricate design of other dresses in the Collection. It is made of several joined pieces. In fact, in this particular case it seems to incorporate pieces from different available alatzia fabrics. The colours of the dress appear faded and its overall condition suggests is has been quite heavily used.

 

Height:  133 cm (bodice: 43 cm up to the waist, skirt: 90 cm).      

Width: 36 cm on the shoulders, 37 cm at the waist, 134 cm at the lower edge of the skirt.

Length of sleeves: 44.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19.5 cm in the upper part, 12 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1989

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 674

Long-sleeved foustanin of cotton alatzia with pairs of stripes alternating between green and red against an off-white ground. The peculiar stripes of the alatzia include double rows of tiny consecutive circles, green or red, and rest on yellow bands.

 

The dress comprises a bodice and a wide skirt which is held in place with a handmade stitch of thick beige thread within a banded waistband around the waist. The back of the bodice consists of a single fabric piece (width: 46 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist), which continues to the front until under the shoulders, at a height of 12-12.5 cm. The rest of the front is covered by two square pieces of fabric, one on either side of the breast (height: 21.5 cm, width: 20-21 cm), with a vertical seam under each armpit.

 

The simple neckline of the foustanin features a low banded collar of a height of 1.5 cm, from a separate piece of the same alatzia. A vertical opening reaches from the neckline to below the waist (total height of opening: 45 cm, 29 cm of which up to the waistband and 16 cm under it). The two sides of the opening, up to the waistband, as well as the front of the neckline, feature a black trimming band finish. Further in, a decorative edging features arches on a straight line. The sewn-on elements are secured with sparse handmade basting using black thread. Handmade fishbone stitch in brown runs between the trimming band and the edging. On the left side of the dress, the stitch continues to the middle of the back side of the neckline, at the nape.

 

The long sleeves are sewn vertically to the body. They consist of a single fabric piece with a seam along the centre of the external side of the arm. At the left armpit there is a small rectangular patch of a different fabric (height: 6 cm,  width: 2 cm). At the edge of the sleeves, the fabric is turned in to create internal basting, 2.5 cm in height. The same edging as the one adorning the opening on the breast has been secured with black thread around the basting. The entire bodice, including the sleeves, is lined with joined pieces of thick, off-white, loom-woven cotton fabric. The 2.5 cm-tall waistband is made of two bands of the same alatzia as the dress, albeit with its stripes in horizontal arrangement. The vertical joint of the pieces is discernible at the centre of the back, whereas at the centre of the front side the waistband fastens with a hook. Another hook is placed slightly higher up, at the base of the vertical opening on the breast.

 

The wide skirt of the foustanin gathers at the waist in dense pleats, formed as the fabric is folded over inwards (height: 2.5 cm) and secured with two thick beige parallel threads that cross through the pleats all around. The skirt consists of two superposed panels. Each panel has a height of 48 cm, 2.5-3 cm of which correspond to basting in the lower panel and in the upper panel to the internal folded-over part within the pleated area. The vertical seams of the two panels, using thick beige thread, extend to the middle of the front side, on the same straight line as the opening of the breast. There is basting around the hemline whereas a black/brown trimming band runs along the edge of the skirt, externally and internally. Fine red lace, now surviving in fragments, is sewn with brown thread at a height of 2.7 cm above the basting. Higher up, at a distance of 20 cm from the basting, ready-made black lace, 3 cm wide, with schematized rosettes, outlines the skirt. The upper part of the lace is sewn with basting and its lower part is unstitched. The same edging as that adorning the sleeves and the opening on the breast runs around the joint of the two superposed pieces of the skirt, at 45 cm over the basting. The various types of seams used on the dress are exclusively handmade.

 

Height: 126 cm (height of bodice: 33.5 cm,  height of waistband: 2.5 cm, height of skirt: 90 cm).

Width: 46 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist, 120 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 43.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17.5 cm in the upper part, 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 1989

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 551

Women’s pantaloons of loom-woven silk-cotton (koukkoullariko) taiston fabric.

 

The garment repeats the pattern of the preceding two pantaloons (ΜΓ 387, ΜΓ 146). Each leg consists of two oblong fabric panels: the broader one, measuring 44 cm in width, covers the front and extends partially to the back, whereas the narrower one, measuring 20-20.5 in width, completes the inner side of the back. Α four-sided fabric panel, added diagonally at the crotch, forms two triangles, one on each side of the garment (side lengths: 43 cm, 45 cm, 44 cm and 40 cm). A 2.7 cm-tall hem casing extends along the waist.

 

The pantaloon legs taper in their lower part, gathering in pleats above and below a horizontal machine-stitched cotton band, 1.5 cm tall. This band is decorated with a continuous zig-zag line of double feather stitch in red. Beneath the band, the remaining leg fabric forms a 8-9 cm-tall ruffle, which features seven hand-embroidered red crosses, four at the front and three at the back. A crochet lace band edges the legs, comprising two rows of continuous rectangles, followed by successive arches that enclose smaller ones (maximum height: 3 cm). Above the lace, a fine band of dense feather stitch in red adorns the edge of the ruffle.

 

Height: 70 cm.

Waist width: 64 cm.

Leg width: 32 cm in the upper part, 15 cm on the added band, 29-30 cm in the lower part (lace).

Date of entry to the Collection: 30.11.1987

Provenance: Asomatos, Kyreneia – Purchased from Maroulla Ilia Frantzia.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 435

A man’s double-breasted vest made of black velvet on the front, red cotton at the back, and lined with thick, beige loom-woven cotton fabric.

Each front part, of black velvet, consists of two fabric panels: the two outer panels that cross to close are of a triangular shape (height: 34.5 cm, hypotenuse 39.5 cm, base: 20 cm), while the other panels complete the front parts as they reach beneath the armpit. The back of the vest consists of a single piece of red cotton fabric.

A low upright collar (maximum height: 2 cm) is made of double velvet. The triangular opening at the breast and the collar are defined by black braid that has frayed and, externally, by a black cord which, with sewing, forms consecutive kamaroues (low arches) and loops at intervals. Decorative bands from a simple handmade herringbone cross-stitch extend around the neck, along the bias-cut front opening, on the bottom edge of the vest, on the armholes and along the seams joining the front panels. Cross-stitches and straight lines from consecutive stitches that define them lengthwise are made of colourful threads in fuchsia, green, yellow and white. Along the collar, a fuchsia stitch forms a zig-zag line.

On the right side, beneath the armpit, a vase-shaped pocket is formed, of silk light-blueish fabric in the upper part and blue fabric below. Both fabrics survive partially, only on their edges, exposing the beige cotton lining. The pocket is defined all-round by a double black cord forming spirals at the corners. Further inside, there extends a row of herringbone cross-stitch in fuchsia, defined internally by continuous green stitch. A second row of white cross-stitch also follows the shape of the outline in the lower part of the pocket. A horizontal band of green cross-stitch extends along the joint of the two different fabrics of the pocket.

On the right side of the vest, internally, two buttons in diagonal arrangement correspond to two buttonholes on the left side. Another two, much smaller buttons on the left side, externally, do not correspond to buttonholes.

On the back of the vest, a vertical opening, 18 cm long, closes with a brick-red ribbon crossing through loops of black braid, that runs along the bottom edge of the vest and extends to the vertical opening. Off-white herringbone cross-stitch  extends to the back side of the armholes, to the bottom edge of the vest and to the vertical opening of the back.

Height: 39 cm.

Width: 23.5 cm on the shoulders, 38 cm at the waist (folded).

Date of entry to the Collection: 25.10.1985

Provenance: Lefkonoiko – Donation by the family of Yiannakos Hadjisavvas.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 431

A man’s off-white shirt. Its front consists of fine cotton, while silk cotton taiston (with puckered bands created lengthwise by warp threads of two different tensions) made of ttira and koukkoulli yarns, is used for the long sleeves, the collar, the back and the yoke.

The front is composed of two cotton panels, 40 cm wide at the bottom, with seams beneath the armpits and at the extension of the vertical opening, which reaches at a height of 36 cm from the base of the collar downwards. Plackets of added or folded over strips of fabric, 1.8-2 cm wide, are machine-stitched on both sides of the opening. Placed on them are seven ready-made white buttons and corresponding handmade buttonholes. An eighth buttonhole is found on the neckline. On both sides of the opening, next to the placket, there extends a 5.5 cm wide panel of needlework (cutwork embroidery, filled with silk thread stitches), featuring opposite-facing wavy lines as the main decorative motif. Τhe needlework is lined with fine transparent fabric, plain yellowish silk on one side and silk-cotton taiston on the other. The needlework section, across both sides of the vertical opening, is flanked by parallel vertical tucks, three pairs and a single one on either side. Under the tucks and the breast opening the fabric gathers in free pleats. 

The pointed collar (maximum height: 7.5 cm) consists of machine-sewn double fabric. Its inside is made of two halves, with a handmade joint at the centre of the back side, widthways. The stand of the collar, 1.5-2 cm in height, is sewn with machine stitching(?) in the upper part and handmade in the lower. The hand-sewn yoke, extending across the shoulders behind the collar, consists of a single strip of taiston fabric (length: 46 cm, height: 8 cm) with the ruffled bands in horizontal arrangement. It is lined with plain cotton fabric.

The back of the chemise consists of four panels, two on either side. The upper panels (height: 52 cm, width: 34 cm) are of a greater height and gather under the yoke forming a row of pleats. The latter are secured with a handmade stitch that runs horizontally across them in the upper part, double in places. The two lower panels (height: 27 cm, width: 34 cm at the top and 36 cm at the bottom) are made of a different type of taiston fabric. The hem of the chemise is hand-sewn.

The sleeves consist of two parts, 15 cm and 22 cm wide, joined lengthwise with seams on the inner and the outer back sides of the arm. Small pleats are formed at the joint of the sleeves to the yoke. The armpits consist of a small square piece of a different taiston fabric (measuring 12x13.5 cm on one sleeve and with 13 cm sides on the other), sewn in a diagonal position with handmade stitches. At the edge of each sleeve a 7-7.5 cm high cuff, lined with white cotton fabric, features two buttons similar to those at the front opening of the shirt. Pleats, formed above the cuffs, are secured across with a double stitch.

This shirt stands out for its varied making and decoration as it combines different fabrics, sewing techniques (by hand and machine-made) and elaborate decorative means (cutwork embroidery filled with stitches, as well as pleats and tucks). In the Registry of the Museum it is described as a “formal chemise”.

Height of chemise: 84 cm.

Width: 46 cm on the shoulders, 79 cm at the base.

Sleeve length: 60 cm.

Sleeve width: 22 cm in the upper part, 10 cm around the cuffs.

Date of entry to the Collection: 25.10.1985

Provenance: Lefkoniko – Donation by the family of Yiannakos Hadjisavvas.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 428

A man’s woven shirt of taiston idaré (silk and ttira yarn) fabric. Its pattern is comparable to that of the previous shirt (ΜΓ 430).

The front of the garment consists of two similar panels, 36 cm wide each at the bottom, joined lengthwise. A yoke, 7 cm high and 36 cm long, drapes the shoulders behind the collar. Further down, the back of the shirt comprises two elongated panels of taiston fabric, 44 cm wide each at the bottom, joined vertically across the middle of the shirt. The fabric used for the back differs from that of the front in terms of its woven pattern. At the centre of the back, right below the yoke, there are dense pleats.

The round neckline features a wide collar of a reinforced stand (kortin) and a fall ending in pointed tips at the front (stand height: 2.5 cm, fall height: 4 cm, pointed tips height: 9.5 cm). The collar, including its stand, is made of three fabric layers: silk on both the inner and outer sides, and a cotton cabot lining in-between. The latter is visible though the worn inner-side silk fabric. A vertical opening, 33 cm high, runs from the base of the neck to nearly halfway down the shirt. Two similar, elongated pieces of added fabric that taper upward and downward (width: 10 cm at the middle, 6 cm at the joint with the yoke and at the bottom) frame the opening, forming a bib. Across the opening edges, which are decorated with three vertical, densely gathered woven stripes, the additional piece of fabric on the left features seven ready-made buttons, matched to buttonholes on the right. An added horizontal band (length: 12 cm, height: 1-1.5 cm) sewn at 41 cm above the hem, defines the lower end of the opening.

The all-silk broad (sarkota) sleeves have their taiston textile stripes arranged lengthwise and are sewn vertically onto the body. The edges of the sleeves are frayed. The right sleeve consists of three oblong sections, with joints on the inner side and the outer front and back sides of the arm. The left sleeve consists of two pieces joined on the inner and the outer back side. Both sleeves end in a low handmade hem, measuring 0.5 cm in height. In their lower part, a slit of approximately 9 cm has been sewn closed.

The garment is predominantly handmade, even though machine sewing may have been employed in certain parts.

Height: 85 cm.

Width: 36 cm on the shoulders, 77 cm in the bottom part.

Sleeve length: 50 cm.

Sleeve width: 27 cm in the upper part, 30 cm at the middle.

Date of entry to the Collection: 25.10.1985

Provenance: Lefkonoiko – Donation by the family of Yiannakos Hadjisavvas.

Translator: 
Petroula Hadjittofi
Author: 
Euphrosyne Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou
Petroula Hadjittofi
Description: 

ΜΓ 421

 

Loom-woven cotton and silk-cotton (koukkoullariko) women’s pantaloons, most likely unworn, preserved in excellent condition.

 

The long pantaloons gather both at the bottom and around the waist, which features a machine- stitched hem casing, 2 cm tall. Two rectangular fabric panels (height: 32 cm, width: 20 cm) extend from the waist downwards, at the centre front and back of the garment (one on each side). Another two panels, one on each leg, cover the outer hip and thigh front and back, reaching up to the waist (height: 52 cm, width: 44 cm). These are joined to the rectangular pieces with vertical seams, featuring a low hem. Further down, two oblong panels extend along the inner side of the legs, reaching to the bottom (height: 65 cm, width: 20 cm). These are joined to the four panels mentioned above, as well as to each other under the crotch (joint length: 20 cm).

 

The lower outer side of the legs is made of silk-cotton fabric (height: 33 cm, width: 40 cm in the upper part), adorned with wide and narrow beige horizontal stripes. The pantaloons gather and fasten at their bottom by means of a thick string of braided yarn, passing through the hem casing.

The garment is entirely machine-sewn.

It is part of a woman’s ensemble, typical of the Karpasia region, which also includes the following garments: sayia ΜΓ 419, chemise ΜΓ 420, scarf ΜΓ 422 and kouroukla (headdress) with sequins ΜΓ 423. These were made on the loom in 1984 by Martha Hadjiloizi, originating from Yialousa, and are replicas of old garments from Karpasia.

Overall height: 87 cm.

Waist width: 43 cm.

Leg width: 33 cm (maximum), 17 cm (at the bottom gathering).

Date of entry to the Collection: 7.2.1985

Provenance: Yialousa, Karpasia – Purchase from Maria Sophroniou.

 

 

Pages