Yeroskipou Folk Art Museum

ΜΓ 22

Women’s pantaloons of thick loom-woven cotton.

They consist of eight fabric sections. At the centre front and back, two pieces (one on each side)  extend from the waist downward across both legs, tapering from 20 cm at their top to 2.5-3 cm at the hem. Attached to these sections are two more, one across the inner side of each leg, tapering from 12 cm at the top to 4 cm at the hem. The left leg has two successive outer pieces whereas the right leg features a single outer piece. On the right side of the pantaloons, a small added fabric piece extends horizontally under the waist, front and back, across a total length of 23 cm.

Embroidered decoration in red and blue covers the lower part of both legs, externally. The dense (pefkoto) embroidery, in a design known as the karpasitikon (of the Karpasia area), features consecutive lozenges arranged in successive rows. The lozenges enclose smaller ones, while in their side corners’ cut-offs they contain single triangles. The pefkoto embroidery is crowned by a row of korou(d)es [girls] on the left leg and finikou(d)es [palm trees] on the right. Both motifs consist of a lozenge above a vertical line with two opposite-facing oblique projections that may depict leaves or hands. The korou(d)es are rendered with more elongated lozenges of two triangles joined along their base. The white-coloured woven fabric peeks through an uncovered vertical line in the middle.  The korou(d)es crafted with blue yarn feature red-coloured triangle fillings, while for those crafted with red yarn the fillings are blue. The pantaloon legs gather at the bottom.

All fabric sections at the upper part of the garment are folded outwards, forming a hollow hem casing (height: 3-3.5 cm) with a threaded drawstring.

Height: 80 cm.

Maximum width: 72 cm.

Width of leg opening: 21 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Fyti, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 21

A man’s double-breasted vest, made of black felt and velvet.

The front consists of two panels of felt and an oblong, trapezoid panel of velvet on each side. The back is formed by a single piece of velvet. The joints of the front panels to the sides are covered by brown/black braid, framed by two cords of twisted threads in various colours (yellow, red and brown/black). Similar finish is discernible on the armholes and also on the bottom edge of the back and side panels. Rows of braids adorn the contour of the neckline and the front felt panels. Low consecutive freestanding arches of fine black cord extend along the bias-cut opening with tiny loops in-between. Much denser, consecutive loops are formed in the lower section of the bias-cut opening, and continue for a short length along the bottom horizontal edge.

The vest has a deep oval opening at the breast. Each front felt panel has at the diagonal end an oblique row of seven buttonholes and, on a second oblique row, on the inside, seven black spherical buttons of beige fabric core, lined with fine and twisted black silk cords. All buttonholes are defined by a braid on the inside and two cords on the outside. Small tassels are created on the free ends of the cords. The buttons are fixed to a thick, beige braided cord, sewn at intervals with black thread on the inside of the vest.

In the upper section of the breast panels (at the opening of the neck) the vest is adorned with dense, curvilinear couched embroidery of black cords (double twisted thread) in elaborate designs that give the impression of knit construction. The mat pattern is edged with rows of cords that follow the shape of the contour. On the upper side, between the rows of cords, a strip of running spirals is interjected.

Lower, on the right side of the breast, a decorative pattern is formed with twisted cords in green, orange, burgundy and blue. It consists of a rectangular pattern at the centre, framed above and below by small vertical and horizontal spirals. Further down, a vase-shaped pocket may be discerned (height: 10 cm, width: 8.5 cm), the upper part of which is made of green felt and the lower part of black velvet. The pocket is trimmed with brown/black braid, framed on each side by a twisted cord of orange, brown/black and yellow threads. In the upper part of the pocket, the cords extend to hook-shaped projections. A braid and cords of the same type form a horizontal division that separates the upper part of the pocket from the lower part. Above and below the division, a thicker twisted cord forms a zig-zag line with small loops on the tops. The pointed end in the lower part of the pocket is joined with the side seam to which the pocket is sewn.

On the back, at a height of 21 cm, a vertical opening is formed. It is fastened with thick cord, which criss-crosses through metallic eyelets and is fastened in the lower part. The cord terminates at spherical elements, identical to the buttons. The vertical opening and its readjustment with the use of the cord allows better fitting of the garment to the body. The bottom edge of the back and the entire opening are trimmed with fine cords, orange and green, that interlace to shape consecutive lozenges with spiral patterns on their tops. The ornament rests on two rows of double cord, one multi-coloured (green [?], orange and yellow), and the other light blue. At the top of the vertical opening there rests a schematized decorative pattern in orange, blue and green. The pattern includes a central lozenge that extends upwards into an interlace and downwards to two pairs of curvilinear, leaf-shaped patterns. The border of the composite ornament is formed by a double cord, orange and green. The lozenge is covered with mat filling, whereas the rest of the patterns have a simple satin stitch.

Inside, the vest is lined with white cotton fabric. Along the opening at the neck and breast there extends a reinforcing band of ready-made fabric with coloured stripes lengthwise, yellow, black and pink. Lower, on the bias-cut sides of the front panels, where the buttonholes are found, there is a vertical strap of the same black felt.

The vest is quite heavily used. A small piece of felt is missing from its front, exposing the cotton lining.

Height 42 cm.

Width: 40.5 cm under the armpits, 33 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Kathikas, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 813

Youthfull (adolescent) short-sleeved, European type dress, remade from an older, refashioned lilac woven skirt with colourful stripes. These skirts made of sattakrouta, thick silk fabric, used to be made mostly in Nicosia as part of the traditional festive attire around the early 20th century (see examples in:…)

The dress consists of a skirt and a bodice, joined at the waist by way of machine stitching. The skirt, which widens downwards, comprises four panels with hand-sewn joints lengthwise, at the centre and on the sides of the skirt. White and green stripes form two broad horizontal bands (height: 9.4 cm) one higher and the other lower respectively. Each band comprises three fine stripes and three broader ones. In the middle of the skirt, front and back, two pleats made with simple machine stitching extend from the waist to the first white stripe of the upper band. Further down, the pleats open up free. In the lower part of the skirt, the hem is simple, hand-crafted, and broad (height: 6.5 cm), allowing for the dress to lengthen if required.

The bodice consists of the same fabric as that of the skirt, in combination with white cotton. At the front, fabric from the original skirt is employed, with the green and white stripes in vertical arrangement. The lilac fabric forms curved projections on either side, created with crude scissor cuts. A plastic button, shaped like a rosette, with a small green flower at the centre, is sewn to the top of the curved projections. The projections emerge on a white cotton fabric that covers the upper part of the breast up to the shoulders. The different parts of the front side are sewn together with machine stitching. Vertical tucks extend in pairs on either side of the central axis on the bust, along the entire length of the lilac fabric. Their inner sides are machine-stitched and their outer sides free. A collar with pointed tips is formed on the V-shaped neckline. Internally, the collar is reinforced with a fine band of purple fabric (two 1.5 cm-wide pieces, each flanking the centre) as well as with another two pieces of purple silk fabric at the triangular ends. The elements mentioned above are hand-sewn.

Two pieces of lilac fabric have been used for the lower part of the back, joined together by way of a handmade seam lengthwise at the centre, and to the front panels with machine stitching under the armpits. The upper part of the back up to the neckline consists of two symmetrical segments of beige cotton fabric, joined to the rest of the fabric pieces with machine stitching (along the shoulders, on the sleeves and in the lower part). A vertical opening, hemmed by hand, is formed at the centre, between the two pieces of cotton fabric, on the extension of the central seam. The opening fastens at its top with a plastic button, of the same type as those used on the front side of the dress.

The sleeves, slightly puffed with pleats, are sewn to the body in a curved line with the use of a sewing machine, and end in a handmade hem. The left sleeve consists of a single fabric piece with an inseam in the lower part. The right sleeve consists of two pieces, one of them smaller and rectangular, on the inside of the lower part. The two sleeves differ in terms of the yellow stripes at their ends, whereas on the right sleeve the stripes are not entirely aligned with the joints of the two fabric pieces.

On the left side, the dress features a 10 cm-tall vertical opening which reaches slightly above and slightly below the waistline. No fastening elements survive.

Height: 94 cm.

Length of skirt: 56.5 cm.

Width: 38.5 cm maximum on the bodice, 37.5 cm at the waist, 78 cm in the lower part of the skirt.

Length of sleeves: 20-20.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 14.5 cm (in the lower end).

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 812

Long, long-sleeved dress of pink silk fabric with separate elements of similar orange fabric and details of ready-made off-white lace.

The formal garment comprises a bodice and a skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. On the front side, the upper part is made of two side pieces of pink fabric: the one on the right extends to the back whereas the second one on the left reaches under the armpit, where it is joined to another narrow piece of the same fabric. The rest of the back is made of a single piece of pink fabric. The centre of the breast is covered with a broad vertical band of orange silk fabric, sewn to the pink fabric on the right side of the breast. The other side of the band, on the left, is unsewn, forming an opening that closes with four springs. Two double, opposite-facing vertical tucks, 3-4 cm wide, are formed on either side of the central panel, on the edges of the two pink pieces. The tucks are sewn with machine stitching lengthwise, almost halfway, whereas both their edges are free. The orange band of fabric is adorned at the height of the breast with a horizontal band of lace, 3.5 cm in height, secured top and bottom with machine stitching. A green narrow horizontal band, hand-sewn with basting using a thread of similar colour, extends higher up. Internally, the part of the orange band that features sewn-on decoration is reinforced with a rectangular piece of thick beige cotton lining (loom-woven fabric). The horizontal side of the neckline, at the top of the orange band, is also decorated with lace, similar to that used on the breast.

The shoulders, front and back, are covered with a wide marine collar of orange silk fabric. Lace, 2 cm in height, similar to the one used elsewhere on the garment, trims the entire collar.

The long sleeves form a slightly curved joint to the body. They consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. An added band of fabric, 10 cm in height, trims the entire lower part of the left sleeve. Lace, 3.3 cm in height, similar to the lace that adorns the body, is sewn to the edge of each sleeve with machine stitching.

At the waist of the dress, an added wide waistband of orange fabric fastens to the left of the centre with a hook and a spring, with the catch missing. An added band of the same fabric, sewn so as to form a bow, covers the fastening of the waistband. The opening of the dress extends from the bodice to the skirt (total opening height from the neckline: 38.5 cm, 25 cm of which up to the top edge of the waistband).

The skirt is pleated in the upper part and widens downwards. It consists of three panels, ca. 58 cm wide each, joined with machine stitching. The hemline features the same type of stitching, and is adorned all around with lace sewn in the upper part by hand. The lace, which slightly projects from the fabric at the bottom, is different than that used elsewhere on the dress, in terms of both width (5.5 cm) and design.

The dress features an intricate pattern, incorporating construction and stylistic elements of the first decades of the 20th century. It is almost entirely made with the use of a sewing machine, stands out for the daring combination of vibrant colours (pink, orange and, in places, green) and includes elements of European fashion such as the tripartite design of the body, the marine collar, the bow at the waistband and the lace trimmings. The combined use of silk, shiny fabrics and lace adds to an air of luxury and lends formality to the dress. The dress is in all likelihood dated to the 1910s-1920s.

Height: 110.5 cm (bodice: 33.5 cm up to the waist, height of skirt: 77 cm).

Width: 33 cm on the shoulders, 34.5 cm at the waist, 86 cm at the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 47 cm (including the lace).

Width of sleeves: 20 cm in the upper part and 13 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 810

Long, long-sleeved foustanin of ready-made cotton imported fabric with fine pink stripes alternating with rows of consecutive tiny dots or circles in red against a white background.

In the upper part of the dress, the two front panels, that have seams on the shoulders, reach under the armpits and cover part of the back, with their stripes obliquely placed. A third piece of fabric, with vertical stripes, forms the centre of the back. A 4 cm-tall waistband is made from a separate piece of the same fabric, with horizontal stripes.

At the front, the simple round neckline extends to a vertical opening, 42 cm tall, 14.5 cm of which below the waistband. The opening fastens with four hooks, two at the front and two on the waistband, most of them probably posterior. At the front, next to the neckline as well as below the breast, each piece of fabric is tucked and held in place with stitching for better fitting. The tuck under the breast reaches down to the waistband. At the back, a blue decorative ribbon, secured within the seam, runs along the oblique joints of the central piece to the side panels. At the middle of the central piece, a vertical band of fabric with two small, opposite-facing tucks along its edges, is flanked by blue ribbon of the same type. At the front, above the waistband, vertical bands of bias-cut fabric (height: 23.5 cm, width: 2.5 cm) flank the vertical opening. Each band is also trimmed with 0.5 cm-wide faded blue ribbon. A similar ribbon also accentuates the horizontal seams on the shoulders.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. A bias-cut ruffle, 3.5 cm in height, has been added to a 1.2 cm-tall hem on the edges of the sleeves. On one sleeve, the ruffle is made of a single band of fabric; on the other, of two joined bands. Here too, the joint of the ruffle to the edge of the sleeve is adorned with fine blue ribbon.

The skirt comprises three elongated panels, one of which is 50 cm wide and the other two 60 cm wide. In the upper part, the fabric of the skirt is turned in and gathers, particularly on the side and at the back, where it is reinforced internally with white cotton fabric and a second fabric piece, also white cotton, displaying floral motifs. A ruffle around the hemline, 7 cm in height, is defined in the upper part by a blue ribbon. Slightly higher up, two parallel horizontal pleats outline the skirt.

The entire bodice, with the sleeves, is lined with white cotton fabric. Most of the seams of the foustanin are handmade using white thread and, more rarely, red. The ribbon on the sleeves, the hemline and the breast is also secured with stitching by hand, whereas the joints at the back appear to have been made with machine stitching.

Overall, the dress appears more elaborate because of the varied arrangement of the fabric panels and the resulting combination of oblique, vertical and horizontal stripes.

Height: 118 cm (bodice with waistband: 36 cm, skirt: 82 cm).

Width: 28 cm on the shoulders, 36 cm at the waist, 83 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 48.5 cm.

Width of sleeves: 20 cm (on the shoulders) and 12 cm (at the hem).

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 808

Waisted foustanin with long sleeves, made of off-white, loom-woven, cotton-silk(?) taiston fabric.

Along general lines, it repeats the design of previous dresses. The bodice consists of six pieces in all, joined to each other with handmade stitching. The front is made of two panels, one on either side of the breast, that extend under the armpits and form the side pieces at the back. The centre of the back is made of four elongated segments forming a gore from the shoulders to the upper part of the waistband, widening upwards. These segments are bias-cut, with the stripes of each segment following a different direction. A fine, ready-made woven band in purple, sewn with white thread, accents four joints at the back. The two diagonal seams on the outer edges are accentuated with a single piece of ribbon, which also continues along the upper edge of the waistband, in-between the seams. The simple oval neckline, crafted by hand with a hollow hem, extends to the front side into a vertical opening that reaches quite long under the waistband, at a total height of 49 cm. Up on the neck, purple bands, each sewn to either side of the opening, are tied together as fastening elements. Lower, the opening on the breast fastens with three hooks: two near the neckline and one further down, close to the waistband.

Above the waistband, the opening is framed lengthwise by two added strips of the same fabric, one on either side. Fine, woven bands in two different shades of green (one shade on each side), sewn with white thread, delimit the rectangular segments, accenting their outline, and reach to the front of the neckline. The bodice tapers on either side under the breast with a pleat, sewn internally, which also extends to the waistband.

The long sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. A low cuff is created at the edge of each sleeve with a fold, 2.5 cm in height, and a hand-sewn, 1.8-2 cm-tall band, added obliquely on the outside. Along its sides, the added band is accentuated on each sleeve with a fine green woven band, ready-made, the same as that used on the opening of the dress. The band is sewn with white thread. The two sides of the frame it creates are joined together with a vertical joint, more or less on the same straight line as the joint along the sleeve. At the joint of the sleeves to the bodice, the puffed fabric creates two pleats with folds on the bias. The bodice, including the sleeves, is lined by hand with beige cotton.

The 4 cm-tall waistband consists of a separate piece of fabric with horizontal woven stripes, and fastens with two hooks.

The wide skirt of the foustanin is made of three pieces of fabric, one narrow (width: 27 cm) and two wide ones (width: 89 cm), sewn by hand. Dense pleats, held in place by straight stitching in two rows, are formed at the waist. In this part of the dress, the skirt is reinforced internally with two added bands, one of simple beige cotton fabric and the other of white and yellow silk. A ruffle, 6 cm in height, has been added around the hem of the skirt. The ruffle consists of seven bands of bias-cut fabric, of the same type as the dress. A low, hand-sewn hem runs along the edge of the ruffle. A fine, ready-made, green woven band, sewn with white thread, accents the joint of the ruffle to the skirt.

The foustanin is entirely hand-sewn based on traditional designs. The use of the taiston fabric with the relief surfaces and its varied shades, as well as the subtle decoration with the colourful bands make this monochrome garment particularly graceful.

Height: 120.5 cm (bodice: 34.5 cm up to the waist, skirt: 86 cm).

Width: 36 cm on the shoulders, 34 cm at the waist, 100 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 47 cm.

Width of sleeves: 17 cm in the upper part, 12.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 806

Long and long-sleeved foustanin of imported pique fabric with blue stripes alternating with broader bands that feature tiny purple patterns, defined on either side by a red line.

The dress comprises a bodice and a long wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. At the front, the bodice consists of two 30 cm-tall panels, one on either side of the breast, with seams on the shoulders. They extend underneath the armpits, to the back (total width: 27 cm), where they are joined to two bias-cut strips of fabric (25 x 6 cm) flanking the central six-sided gore (width: 30 cm on the shoulders, 8 cm at the waist, above the waistband). The stripes on the bias-cut strips are placed diagonally as opposed to the central gore with the vertical stripes. This creates a pleasant variety which brings out the design. The joints of the different pieces are meticulously sewn by hand. The bodice is lined with various pieces of fine beige cotton fabric, ready-made, probably hand-sewn.

A round neckline with a simple hem features an opening that extends vertically to the centre, up to the waist, at a height of 29 cm. The opening continues underneath the waistband, to the skirt, at a height of 10.5 cm. A ruffle made of an added, bias-cut, slightly gathered band of fabric, 5.5 cm wide, consisting of three pieces on either side, runs along both sides of the breast, at 2.5 cm underneath the shoulders, on either side of the opening. The ruffle is bias-cut and its edge is hemmed. Its two strips converge at the bottom into a V shape.

The opening closes with five hooks: one at the base of the neck, a second at the beginning of the ruffle, another two hooks on the waistband and one slightly up. The opening is hemmed across its sides: the hem is broader up to the waistband, narrowing down from there on.

The long sleeves, joined to the body in a curve, consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Their finish is achieved with an added ruffle of different, bias-cut pieces of fabric (two or three), 2.5-3 cm in height.

The 4.5 cm-tall waistband consists of different pieces of fabric with horizontal stripes.

The skirt is made of three panels, 64 cm wide each. In the upper part of the skirt, underneath the waistband, dense pleats are held in place with a straight basting stitch. At this point, the skirt is slightly folded inside and reinforced with added bands: one is of the same fabric as the dress, and appears to contain a strip from a different fabric, beige with a gold stripe. The skirt has a hem, 1.5-2 cm in height, where its ruffle is secured. The ruffle is 7.5-8.5 cm-tall and consists of 11 bias-cut pieces of fabric, diagonally sewn.

In spite of the use of imported fabric and the addition of ruffles for embellishment, the design of the dress follows traditional standards, therefore preserving a very conservative character, keeping the largest surface of the body covered.

Height of bodice: 30 cm.

Height of waistband: 4.5 cm.

Height of skirt: 67 cm up to the ruffle, 75 cm at the base of the waistband.

Width of skirt at the bottom edge: 104 cm.

Width of sleeves: 19 cm in the upper part, 11 cm in the lower part and 14 cm at the ruffle.

Date of entry to the Collection: 28.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Militsa Panayiotou.

ΜΓ 802

Waistcoat of striped loom-woven silk fabric, dark red with fine yellow stripes, and beige cotton lining (cabot fabric). It is preserved in very good condition.

The front side consists of four pieces: two equal-sized triangles (gores) on both sides of the opening (bottom side: 18 cm, inner long side: 46 cm, outer long side: 48 cm), crossing diagonally to create a V-shaped opening on the breast; and an additional two pieces that complete the facades and extend to a single piece on the back (height: 55 cm on the front and the back [overall:110 cm], width: 43 cm at the bottom end of the back). The seams of the garment are handmade. On the sides there is a 7 cm slit. Decorative rows of herringbone stitch with olive-green thread frame the upright collar (height: 3 cm), and also run along the two outer sides of the front pieces, up to 10-12 cm from the hem. An interrupted row of the same type of stitch also adorns the middle of the collar lengthwise. The collar is garnered with braid, which continues along the front opening, double and with an added row of kombouthkia [small knots of looped cord], at a height of 29 cm on the left side and 38 cm on the right side.

On the right side of the breast there is a rectangular inside pocket (height: 13 cm, width: 10 cm) with a pointed lower end. The pocket is sewn internally with green thread. Its horizontal opening, 8.5 cm long, is framed by black braid and a continuous row of herringbone stitch.

The waistcoat is double-breasted but in its current state it closes only on one side. Four fastening cords survive, one on each of the two opening edges, another one internally at the base of the pocket and a fourth one externally on the left side, at the middle of the rectangular piece of fabric, 16 cm above the hem. The waistcoat fastens only when crossing over from right to left, by tying together two of the cords internally and the remaining two cords externally (the cord on the left edge is tied to the inside cord and the cord on the right edge is tied to the outer cord on the left side).

The long sleeves are sewn vertically to the body and consist of two segments joined widthwise. The upper segment, which is sewn onto the body of the waistcoat, is an elongated rectangular piece, 10 cm wide and 17 cm high both at the front and the back side (overall height: 34 cm). This oblong piece is joined at the bottom to two triangles that form the armpit, sewn together lengthwise (length: 16.5-17 cm). The lower part of the sleeves features a 14 cm long curvilinear opening, and has a lining of imported silk fabric featuring two red bands with leaved flowers woven into the construction of the weave, and more narrow bands with rows of stitches and purple geometric patterns (height of lining: 10.5 cm). The opening of the sleeves is garnered with double braid. A row of kombouthkia has been added along the horizontal edge.

Height: 55 cm.

Width: 43 cm on the shoulders and at the waist (37 cm when folded).

Length of sleeves: 57 cm.

Width of sleeves: 16.5 cm in the upper part, 15.5 cm at the bottom.

Date of entry to the Collection: 15.7.1994

Provenance: Nicosia – Purchased from Maria Kizouridou.

ΜΓ 745

A man’s shirt of white cotton fabric.

Its largest part, not including the upper section back and front, consists of two fabric panels with machine-sewn vertical joints at the sides, beneath the armpits. A low machine-stitched hem extends along the bottom of the shirt. Τhe upper part of the garment, front and back, consists of two additional oblong pieces of double fabric (length: 37.5 cm for the breast piece and 41 cm for the back; height: 18 cm for the breast piece and 12 cm for the back), joined with a machine-made seam along the right shoulder. The seam is overlaid by handmade decorative feather stitch of white thread. On the left shoulder, the open joint closes with three buttons, one of which is placed at the collar stand, over the neckline.

The collar stand consists of a 2 cm tall band, secured with machine stitching along its edges. The collar fall ends in pointed tips at the front (maximum height: 6 cm). When the collar is closed, the tops of its points are 3 cm apart. A second button on the collar stand, sewn on the left of the centre front, is paired to a loop of red thread at the underside of the collar’s left pointed tip. The collar fall is made of double fabric and covered on the inside by consecutive lozenges, 5x3 cm, of red machine-made stitches. Near its outer edges, the collar is also decorated with a handmade stitch of white thread, similar to that on the right shoulder. The outer sides of the collar are trimmed with ready-made machine-stitched white edging, decorated lengthwise with embroidered red motifs, namely lozenges alternating with four-lobe elements. The wavy outer side of the edging is accentuated with red thread.

The breast is covered by a composite floral motif, consisting of a vertical stem with three pairs of opposite-facing leaves and a four-petal flower, crowned with a three-lobe blossom. At the base of the stem there is a multi-petal flower with an upside-down palmette at the bottom. The flower consists of a disk-like centre encircled by eight pointed petals. It may represent a sunflower. From the flower emerge two opposite-facing branches with stems, leaves, rosettes with spear-like petals, and multi-petal flowers similar to the central one. Each branch ends in a pomegranate. Two opposite-facing birds flank the central stem. Embroidered branches of red and white thread border the floral composition on the left and right. All embroidered motifs consist of dense interlaced stitches, creating solid surfaces. 

Beneath the breast, tucks cover a four-sided surface, 25.5 cm long and 20 cm high. At the centre and near the edges, a wider double tuck, 3 cm wide, is framed by smaller ones, 0.5 cm wide. All the small tucks are stitched along one of their long sides, whereas on the wide tucks two vertical seams, that form opposite-facing tucks, flank the decorated centre. The decoration consists of curvilinear embroidered motifs made of blanket stitch (continuous wavy line from which tiny vertical straight lines emerge) in red colour. At the central tuck, the wavy motif is interlaced with a similar one of white thread. Three opposite-facing oblique strands of a different stitch, namely feather stitch (the upper and lower strands made of red thread, the central one of white), join the three vertical wavy bands. Beneath the part with the stitched tucks, free pleats extend down to the hem of the chemise.

At the back of the garment, free pleats are formed beneath the horizontal seam of the upper segment. The machine-made joint is accentuated lengthwise by handmade feather stitch of red thread.

The sleeves consist of a single piece of fabric with a machine-made inseam. Along the inner side of each sleeve, an elongated triangular gusset tapers from the armpit towards the wrist (length: 35 cm, maximum width: 10.5 cm). At the extension of the pointed tip of the gusset, the machine-made inseam of the sleeves is followed by a 12 cm long slit at the wrist.

Each sleeve ends in a cuff, 7 cm high, of double fabric (the inner fabric of a different, whiter type). The cuff is covered externally by assymetrical lozenges of red machine-made stitches. The sleeve fabric gathers both above the cuff, and higher, at the top of the shoulders. The vertical joint of the sleeves to the body, again machine-made, is decorated lengthwise with handmade feather stitch of red then white thread. The colours of the stitches alternate in different parts of each sleeve. The vertical sleeve stitches, in combination with horizontal stitches of the same type across the lower end of the breast piece (in white) and the back piece (in red) form a continuous rectangular frame.

The shirt is particularly elaborate with rich embroidery which is rare on traditional shirts. It originates from Asomatos, Kyreneia, and was used as a groom’s shirt in the early 20th century. It used to be a set with vest ΜΓ 744, which bears the date 1915.

Height: 66 cm at the front, 74 cm at the back.

Width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 76 cm at the base.

Sleeve length: 55 cm.

Sleeve width: 28 cm in the upper part, 11 cm around the cuffs.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1992

Provenance: Asomatos, Kyreneia – Purchased from Karolos Orphanos. It belonged to Vrahimis A.

ΜΓ 680

Long and long-sleeved traditional type dress of print silk-cotton imported fabric with taiston stripes, framed by gold green bands according to a pattern of one band-four stripes-one band. On the main side of the fabric, the gold green bands are covered with a shiny gold colour. On the same side, dispersed embossed vegetal motifs emerge against an off-white background: slender leaved branches with flowers and buds in different shades of purple, yellow and blue. The pollen is rendered in yellow and surrounded by small colourful dots. Its centre is also decorated with a small dot. Of note is the fact that the gold bands run over the printed motifs.

The dress consists of a bodice and a skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband. The bodice is formed by a single fabric piece at the front and back, with a seam under the armpits. The entire bodice, including the sleeves, is lined with thick loom-woven cotton.

The simple circular neckline extends to an opening, 25 cm in height, up to the waist. Both the neckline and the opening are hemmed with a purple trimming band, within which runs a handmade decorative fishbone stitch in olive green. The opening fastens at the waist with two hooks and continues under the added waistband at a height of 13 cm (total height of the opening from the neckline to the bottom edge: 49 cm).

The waistband is formed by an added, 5 cm-tall piece of fabric with horizontal stripes. On either side of the opening, two opposite-facing tongues of the same purple trimming band are sewn with black thread (length: 8.5 cm, height: 5 cm). The tongues are framed internally and externally by handmade fishbone stitches, similar to those at the opening of the breast.

The sleeves, sewn vertically to the body, are made of a single fabric piece with an external seam on the upper arm. An added piece of fabric, which tapers from the upper to the lower edge of the sleeve (width: 11 cm in the upper edge, 5 cm in the lower edge) is joined to the left sleeve with a second lengthwise seam, further down, on the outer side of the arm. The broad hem on the sleeves is adorned with light blue scalloped edging along a straight line. The hem and the decorative elements are hand-sewn with black thread.

The wide skirt consists of five panels, four 65-66 cm wide and one 60 cm wide. At the waist, the fabric of the  skirt is folded inwards and gathers in dense pleats, secured with two horizontal seams of thick thread. Ready-made black lace, 4 cm wide, secured in the upper part with handmade stitch, runs at a height of 30 cm above the hem. The free edge of the lace is scalloped and the other one straight, whereas rows of four-petal flowers run in-between them. A small pleat is formed all around the skirt, where the lace is held in place. The hemline is reinforced internally with an added band of a different fabric, also imported (height: 3.5-4 cm), off-white in colour with small red flowers in a row lengthwise. The edge of the skirt is adorned with a purple trimming band, hand-sewn using black thread. Higher up, a finer red ribbon survives in fragments. It was secured with the same black thread used to sew the inner hemline reinforcement.

The dress is used and, in several parts, stained. It is generally a youthful dress, and albeit made of imported fabric, entirely hand-sewn based on established formal standards.

Height: 123 cm (bodice: 33 cm up to the waistband, skirt: 90 cm).

Width: 40 cm, 167 cm around the hemline.

Length of sleeves: 44 cm.

Width of sleeves: 18 cm in the upper part, 13 cm in the lower part.

The two front panels on the bodice are 20 cm wide.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.