Costume Museum of Lykeion ton Ellinidon

Myrmidin, a women's metallic gold-plated breast ornament. It consists of thin chains, with three vertical ones connected by nine horizontal ones. This particular ornament exhibits some peculiarities: in the examples found in Cyprus, the two outermost vertical chains are longer and have hooks at their ends for attachment to the shirt, so that the chest is covered with a sparse network of fine chains (for the wearing of this ornament with traditional costumes, see Papadimitriou 1991, fig. 11, 12; for examples of the myrmidin, see: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2020, 280-281, fig. 81, 82). The myrmidin of the collection hangs from the neck, which it surrounds with an additional chain connected to the outer vertical ones (see myrmidin with neck chain in Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 206, fig. 203). The central vertical chain consists of a series of closely linked miniature rhomboid elements connected with small rings, while the outermost chains are formed by parallel cylindrical metallic elements with ridges on their surface, connected with rings.

It is worth noting that in Cypriot glossaries, the term myrmidin is believed to derive from the word μύρμηκες/myrmikes, meaning ants, and particularly myrmikidion/myrmidion, meaning small ant, or from myrmyridion, meaning countless: Loukas 2002, w. μυρμείδιν/myrmeidin. Pharmakides 1983, w. μυρμίδιν/myrmidin. Possibly related is the ancient word μέρμις/mermis, which means fine rope (Liddel and Scott 1907, vol. III, w. μέρμις).

Dimensions: height 24 cm., width 27 cm.

Gilt buckle (poukla) made of silver alloy. It consists of two similar almond-shaped elements with wavy outlines and identical incised and relief stylised floral composition that emerges from a tiny vase with upright opposing handles ending in spirals. The base of the flower vase is rendered in the shape of a pitcher with engraved details. The floral composition consists of branches with flowers and leaves that develop on most of the surface, following the almond-shaped outline up to the pointed tip of the buckle. The decoration is completed with a wide band which follows the perimeter of the central motif, featuring continuous spiral-shaped leaves. The clasp of the buckle is closed with a cast hook that inserts into a cast ring on the opposite part of the buckle. On the backside of each piece, there is a metal strap for securing the fabric of the belt. A small technical repair is observed at the base of one piece.

Dimensions: height 24 cm., width 30 cm.

Women’s short long-sleeved jacket (sarka) of black felt, with sewn-on decoration. The sarka consists of a single piece of fabric, which covers the chest and the back, while additional pieces cover the body under the armpits. The sleeves are made of separate pieces of felt, which are sewn vertically onto the body. The vertical opening on the chest is deep and oval-shaped, and closes at the lower part with five hook-and-eye clasps. Around the opening of the chest, all around the bottom edge of the garment and the edges of the sleeves, there is a sewn-on decorative band of twisted cord and gold thread, formed into stylised floral patterns with a chain-like finish. In the middle, below the sewn-on decoration, three horizontal ribbons of olive green, coral and blue have been sewn into the felt. The jacket is lined with beige cotton fabric and at the lower part of the sleeve it is lined with a deep red silken material with floral motifs. The garment is preserved in fairly good condition, although in several places the sewn-on decoration had come apart and was repaired.

This type of sewn-on decoration is common and characterises many Cypriot sarkes, which are part of the formal, bridal, or festive Amalia-style costume, initially urban and later also rural (as indicative examples, see sarkes from the period 1850-1870, from Peristeronopigi Ammochostou, in Michalopoulou-Charalambous 1993, 196-197).

Dimensions: Height 39.5 cm. width 43 cm. Sleeves: length 45 cm., width 17-19 cm.

Skirt of satakrouta, a pure silk fabric made from coarse unboiled silk. The name derives from the Italian term seta cruda. The colour of the fabric is somon (from the French saumon, salmon). The light-coloured field is interrupted at intervals by parallel horizontal stripes formed in the weft. The stripes are in three groups, each of which has six stripes – three fine and three broader stripes. The colours (from top to bottom) are light green, deep red, and purple. Below the bottom group, at the lower edge of the skirt, there is a broad band in dark/cypress green. The thin stripes have a 0.5 cm width, the wide stripes have a 1 cm width, and the green band at the bottom is 4 cm wide. The width of each group is 10 cm. The skirt is ankle-length and widens towards the hem. It gathers at the waist, where a thin belt of the same fabric has been sewn on. At the side, there is a vertical opening of 15 cm, with two cotton ribbons that tie at the waist. It is lined with off-white cotton fabric and it has a simple hem at the bottom. In places, the fabric is stained and shows signs of wear.

This is a characteristic urban festive traditional skirt, primarily made in Nicosia. This particular type of skirt was worn in Cyprus as part of a more recent variation of the national dress inspired by the costume of Queen Amalia, dating back to the late 19th/early 20th century. For examples of the same skirt as part of a complete Amalia-type costume, see: Papantoniou 1996, p. 100; similar examples can be found in Papadimitriou 1991, p. 15; Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, p. 76, fig. 38; Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2010, p. 136-137, no. 91b, and pp. 138-139, no. 92b.

Dimensions: height 90 cm., width 40 cm.

Price: 275 drachmas.

White silk cotton shirt made of taisto fabric, with lengthwise puckered bands created by warp threads of two different tensions. The original shirt was long, and it has been altered. There is a vertical opening at the chest, measuring 22 cm. The long and broad sleeves are sewn lengthways onto the body, which is made of one piece of fabric. The neck opening and its continuation on the chest, as well as the edges of the sleeves, are decorated with off-white pipilla, a fine lace made with a sewing needle, in a pattern of continuous little flowers.

Dimensions: height 70 cm. chest width 65 cm. Sleeves: length 53 cm. width 23 cm.

Reconstruction of women’s costume from Cyprus, from the CMLE collection. The following pages contain the various parts of the costume: shirt (CMLE 1015/2), skirt (CMLE 2195/5), sarka (CMLE 1985/2), buckle (CMLE 2499/2), necklace (myrmidin) (CMLE 13905), women’s red fez (CMLE 2213/11) and fez headscarf (CMLE 2145).

Double-breasted zimbouni made of striped alatzia in blue and burgundy. The neck has a low standing collar. The front part consists of four pieces, two of which are triangular. The inner triangular side is fastened with black soutache. The zimbouni is fastened on the inside with woollen cords, crossing the right side over the left. The left fastening cord has a length of 10 cm. and the right of 23 cm. The front opening has a black soutache finish 37 cm in length, reaching to the point where the cords tie. The sleeves are sewn vertically onto the body, and for ease of movement, two right-angled triangles with a 13 cm. length and 8 cm. width have been added at the armpits, and are joined at their longest sides. The opening of the sleeves measures 9 cm. lengthwise and is lined with soutache, which continues along the entire edge of the sleeve, with a decorative loop in the middle. On the inside, the lower part of the sleeves is reinforced with two connected pieces of the same fabric. The inner part has a height of 6 cm. and vertical stripes. The outer piece has a height of 3 cm. with horizontal stripes. The inner reinforcement is visible when the sleeve is folded outward. The back consists of a single piece of fabric. The zimbouni is lined with beige cotton, on which the black thread of the machine-sewn seams is visible.

Dimensions: height 59.5 cm., width 47 cm. Collar: 2 cm. Sleeves: length 47.5 cm., width 16 cm.

A sleeved waistcoat (zimbouni) made of cotton alatzia with burgundy and yellow stripes, similar to the fabric of the vest CMLE 2686/2. The neck features a low standing collar. The front consists of four pieces, while the back is a single piece. The sleeves are sewn vertically to the body. Under the armpit, gussets (two triangular pieces of fabric, joined at their longest sides) have been added for ease of movement. At the lower ends, the two sleeves have an additional piece, a cuff with a height of 14 cm. and an opening of 12 cm. The opening of the sleeves is adorned with soutache with four loops for buttoning. All the buttons are missing. The opening of the sleeves is emphasised with two rows of white seams. On the front, the two pieces that cross over the chest are of triangular shape and fasten with two external black bone buttons on the left side, and with one internal button, of which only the loop is preserved. The two loops on the triangular piece of the right side are 9 and 11 cm. away from the bottom end, respectively, while the distance from the inner loop to the bottom end is 9 cm. The soutache of the back runs also along the front side, the bottom edge, and the collar. Additional emphasis is given by white seams all around the front sides and the collar. On the right side, there is an internal pocket with a handmade seam of black cord. The horizontal opening is decorated all around with soutache and double white seams. In the upper part, at the centre of the opening there is a small loop. The zimbouni is lined with beige cotton with double reinforcement on the left seam, which extends to the joining point with the left sleeve. The seams and the sleeve on the right side are also reinforced.

Dimensions: height 50 cm. width 45 cm. Sleeves: length 59 cm., width 19 cm.

Donated by: N. Triantafyllou. Purchased for 2.50 Cypriot pounds.

Long vest (yelekkin) made of cotton striped cloth (alatzia), with alternating stripes in the following order: brown, white, green, white, red, white, green, white and brown. The front part consists of two pieces, while the back is of a single piece joining at the sides, under the armpits, to the two front pieces, leaving two small openings at the lower part. There is a small standing collar and a vertical opening at the chest, lined with a braid of cord with 12 facing loops and 12 corresponding buttons, which constitute a later addition. On the right side of the chest, there is a horizontal opening for an inner pocket, which is lined with checkered alatzia in blue and red. The opening of the pocket is accentuated with black zigzag cord with small sewn-on pieces of red fabric and three tassels, two light-blue and one red. The vertical opening at the front is emphasised on both sides with a decorative band of zigzag lines and a floral motif, all made of thick blue cord. The patterns resemble stylised branches, embroidered in opposite directions, in a horizontal position. This decoration is enriched with scattered, sewn-on tiny pieces of fabric in red and blue. The shoulders, the collar and the arm openings are also emphasised with the zigzag line of blue cord. The garment is lined with beige cotton fabric. This type of rural vest is made of homemade alatzia woven on a loom. It is encountered frequently, varying according to the colours of the weave of the alatzia and the variation in handmade embroidered decoration (see for example a similar type of waistcoat from Mesaoria, in the Cyprus Folk Art Museum: Papademetriou 1991, 107, figure 72; see also the waistcoat in the Cypriot ethnographic collection of the Benaki Museum: Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 2010, 112-113, no. 80).

Dimensions: height 50 cm., width 43 cm.

Purchased for 132 drachmas or 4.50 Cypriot pounds.

Double-breasted vest of blue figured velvet with black flowers. The front part consists of four pieces of fabric, of which the inner two, those which cross over the chest, are triangular. The back is made of a single piece of fabric, without an opening. On the right side of the chest, there is an internal pocket with an oval opening, decorated with black cord forming a zigzag line and loops. The joints, openings and bottom edge are decorated in a similar fashion, with zigzag lines and loops of black cord. There is off-white trim at the front opening and around the low standing collar. At the bottom edge of the inner triangular chest pieces, there are two loops which allow the waistcoat to close with buttons on both sides. The two buttons on the left side, one of which is on the inside, are later additions. The vest is lined with off-white cotton fabric.

Dimensions: height 42 cm., width 44 cm.

Donated by Nikos Triantafyllou. Purchased for 4.50 pounds in Cyprus.