Female

Ind. no. 221: A rectangular piece of cotton, woven textile with dense fythkiotika patterns and a series of stylised trees at the upper end. The principal colours of the embroidered decoration are red and blue, with a little yellow and light green in the fills, which illuminate the design. This piece of textile served as the lower end of women's pantaloons (povratzin, underpants). A selvedge is discernible at one end (for a similar design, see a 19th century povratzin of Karpass in Papadimitriou 1996, 13, fig. 17).

Dimensions: 46 x 30 cm. Embroidery height: 25 cm.

The povratzia inv. nos. 222, 220 and 221 were bought by Loukis Pierides from Mrs. Lewis.

Ind. no. 220: A rectangular piece of cotton woven textile with dense, pefkoto embroidery, typical of the Karpas (karpasitiko) style, with a series of stylised trees at the upper end. It adorned the lower part of a pantaloon. The predominant colours are red and blue, namely the oldest colours used in such embroideries, with a touch of olive green and yellow. One edge is finished with thick crochet lace (pipilla smiliou) (see a similar design in a povratzin from Fyti, in Pierides 1980, pl. I:b).

Dimensions: 47.5 x 28.5 cm. The embroidery extends to a height of 24 cm.

Ind. no. 222: Piece of thick cotton, woven textile, covered with dense, pefkoto embroidery made on the loom. The design consists of two different compositions of consecutive lozenges in black and red. Yellow/gold and silver threads, used in a lesser extend for the fillings, illuminate the dark-coloured embroidery. The fabric is rectangular in shape. On one side, there is a finish of thick decorative braid, roughly made of blue thread. This textile piece comprises the lower end of women's pantaloons (povratzin), a characteristic element of the costume of Paphos and Karpass. The embroidered lower part of pantaloons was visible under the chemise and the sayia (for similar examples see Pieridou 1976, pl. III).

Dimensions: 57 x 24.5 cm.

Ind. no. 28: Black velvet belt lined with black fabric, embroidered with a design similar to that of belt no. 20. The shape of the central flower in the pot differs, as do some of the colours. The design is repeated nine times. Α velvet belt with an identical design and with a silver clasp attached to its ends is depicted by Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter ((1913) 1994, fig. 67), who compares it to an ancient articulated belt of metallic plaques. Therefore, the belts in the Pierides Collection could be dated to the end of the 19th century and it is possible that they are even older.

Dimensions: Width of each compartment: 4.5 x 7.5 cm. Length: 71.5 cm.

These belts were used as part of an urban Cypriot costume. They were owned by Eleni Nikoli Tavernari, the grandmother of Theodora Z. Pieridou.

Ind. no. 20: Belt made of black, silk fabric, embroidered with silk and metallic threads. It is divided into 11 sections, each featuring a pot with leaves, and a flower with petals in a radial arrangement. Above this central flower there are two smaller ones, one in each corner. The dividing line is embroidered with gold thread in satin stitch, as is the flowerpot that sits on this line, as well as the large leaves and the stem. Vertical ribs compose the relief surface of the pot. The central flower and two spirals below are embroidered with stem stitch in light brown/honey, as is the pollen of the small blue flowers. Deep green leaves on the sides of the pot are faintly visible on the black background. The design is simple and symmetrical. The theme of the flowerpot was very popular in Greek folk art. The belt would close with a metallic clasp.

Dimensions: Width of each compartment: 4.5 x 7 cm. Length: 75 cm.

Ind. no. 27: An almost square headscarf, decorated with flowers that sparsely cover the entire surface, arranged around a central flower in a wreath of buds. Soft colours are accentuated with bright oil green and deep red. The edges are decorated with pipilla (needle lace) made from light brown cord (the design and arrangement are comparable to, among others, the embroidery of Istanbul with a similar straight and pressed stitch, at the National History Museum of Athens: Greek Embroidery 1989, 88, no. 90. See also turban cover: Berker, s.a., 295, 1/70).

Dimensions: 46 x 53 cm.

Ind. no. 105: Silver, tripartite filigree poukla (buckle, clasp). It consists of two paisley-shaped pieces, one of which has a central vertical element attached. All three pieces consist of hammered sheet silver with applied decoration of filigree work and granules that form flower designs. Each outer piece features a prominent boss with a nailed filigree rosette, set with a central paste (glass stone). The outer edges and the rosette of the central piece are also set with pastes, which add touches of colour to the bright silver. On the back of each piece there are two vertical bars for attaching the clasp to a belt.

Dimensions: Total length: 16.5 cm. Paisley-shaped elements: 6.2 x 4.9 cm. Height of central element: 6.2 cm.

Inv. no. 101: Silver-gilt poukla (buckle, clasp) consisting of three pieces. The outer two, horizontal pieces are paisley-shaped, while the central, vertical piece is oblong with a wavy outline. On all three parts, the applied filigree decoration forms large rosettes, nailed to the center and to the curved ends, as well as other smaller floral designs such as stems, leaves and flowers. The decoration is completed with applied granules, hemispheres and lozenges. On the back of each piece there are vertical bars for attaching the clasp to a belt. The central piece is joined to one outer piece. This type of clasp is well known in Greece (see Hatzimichali 1978, 75, fig. 64, Kaplani 1997, 119, no. 4118, Zora 1981 fig. 56, Mazarakis-Ainian and Iacovou 1995, 71).

Dimensions: Total length: 23 cm. Paisley-shaped pieces: 10.5 x 6.5 cm and 10 x 6.5 cm. Central piece: 9.5 x 5 cm.

Inv. no. 119: Silver splinga (pin). Its head is a filigree spherical bead with a red paste (glass stone) at the top. Five chains with five ottoman coin imitations and two tiny, heart-shaped elements of sheet silver,  hang from a ring at the upper end of the shank. This type of pin was used as the central part of a “chest pin” or for fastening and decorating the headscarf. 

Dimensions: Height: 11.6 cm. Chain length: 8.8 cm.

Inv. no. 294: Urban-style dress made of silk fabric. The entire surface of the dress is embroidered with delicate flower branches in soft shades of white, green, and pink on a light blue background. The bouquets are surrounded by double curvilinear frames, embroidered with a fine chain-stitch.

The ankle-length dress has long sleeves and a deep opening at the chest. The bodice consists of a separate piece of fabric, as also the sleeves. White fabric with a ribbon lacing, like that of male vests, has been added to the back for an adjustable fit. The lower part of the dress consists of a single piece of fabric with many folds. At the height where pockets are usually found, there are two 17cm openings with a black finish. The edges of the chest opening and the sleeves, as well as the hem are decorated with a wavy blue ribbon trimmed with sewn-on sequins. The chest opening is covered with an off-white tulle embroidered with delicate flowers and decorated with handmade sewn-on daisies and pipilla (needle lace). The dress belonged to the family of Georgios Sivitanides, in Limassol. 19th century.

Dress length: 131 cm.