Male

Double-breasted waistcoat (Turk: kavuşturma yelek) made of broadcloth. It belongs togeth­er with the breeches No. 087 and was worn above a chemise. The front part is made of two pieces of blue broadcloth (çuha/çufa) of the same size, and can be cross-fastened on either side by means of plaited silk thread buttons. On the shoulders, where each front part is stitched onto the back part, the width is 7.5cm. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (28.5cm); then the piece becomes narrower downwards and is only 18cm at the lower edge. There are six buttons on either side; the buttons are spheri­cal, plaited with yellow cotton thread and covered with black twisted silk thread. The inside of the parts where the buttons and the buttonholes are found, are strengthened with additional pieces of broadcloth. A white cotton strip attached diagonally connects the buttons on the inside. The reinforced parts of broadcloth are covered with black spi­rals of applied embroidery and a wickerwork pattern, which extends on both sides of the opening up to the shoulder. On either side of the front there are two applied patterns: a broad oval leaf filled with black braids (gaitania, Turk: kaytan, gaytan) and twisted threads, ending in a small blossom filled with embroidery in green and orange silk thread. Next to the leaf is a long S-shaped motif with a spiral at the lower end and a blossom filled with embroidery in or­ange and green silk thread. The sides of the waistcoat, under the openings for the arms, consist of two pieces of purple (turned into brown with time) velvet (Turk: kadife), 4.5cm broad, which widen upwards to a width of 9cm. On the velvet pieces there are lozenge-shaped wickerwork patterns in green and orange, as well as blossoms filled with embroidery in green, orange and blue. On each side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of originally purple velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, i.e. it is applied half on the velvet and half on the broadcloth piece. Each pocket is deco­rated with the same abstract vegetal pattern formed with thread twisted with thin metal wire (Turk: tel) sewn to the pocket. Purple and orange thread and black braids are sewn all round the pockets. Similar decoration is applied on all the edges of the waistcoat. The back is made of two pieces of broadcloth, 43cm long and 18.5cm wide. In the middle there is a vertical slit 28.5cm long, with eight metallic rivets (Turk: perçin) on either side and one at the top for a lace to go through and cross-fasten the opening, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. From the neck to the top of the slit the joint of the two parts is decorated with a narrow piping (Turk: fitil) on each side (total width about 2cm). The back is decorated with lozenge patterns, curving floral motifs and two confronted birds on the uppermost part. The outline of the birds is made of twisted threads, purple, orange and black, the head is filled with gold metallic wire and the body and tail are filled with embroidery of orange and blue silk threads. Overall, every part of the waistcoat has multi-coloured braids, silk threads or twist­ed metal wires sewn to it, forming spiralling floral motifs, wickerwork pattern, lozenges, almond-shaped patterns, scrolls and spirals. This rich adornment calls to mind the motifs of Islamic inspiration incised on bronze utensils of the 18th and 19th centuries. The waistcoat is lined with off-white cotton material. All applied decoration is sewn on thick paper, which can be seen on the inside (the paper is sewn together with the ap­plied decoration). There are also pieces of thicker paper/cardboard. On these papers one can read advertisements in Greek, such as [ΕΡΓΟΣ]ΤΑΣΙΟΝ Η ΚΑΛΗ ΤΥΧΗ / ΕΥΑΓΓΕΛΗ ΚΑΠΝΟΣ ΜΥΡΩΔΑΤΟΣ ΑΡΙΣΤΗΣ ΠΟΙΟΤΗΤΟΣ (Good Luck Factory Evangeli aromatic to­bacco of the best quality) Fabrique de T[abac].On another piece of paper inside, one can read: Manufacture of Tobacco G.O. Dianellos and Son. There is also the picture of a sun and above the sun: MINERVA KΑΠΝΟΣ ΓΕΝΙΤΣ… ΜΥΡΩ[ΔΑΤΟΣ] (tobacco YENICE aromatic) Bazar Street 35 ΛΑΡΝΑΚΙ ΚΥΠΡΟΣ (Larnaca Cyprus)  

Wide, heavily pleated breeches (No. 087) (Turk çufa şalvar/çuha) made of blue broadcloth. The gar­ment consists of three pieces, the middle part and two side parts for the legs. The middle part is one piece from the front to the back and is the broadest, measuring 115cm. The length is 140cm (70cm in front and 70cm at the back). Each side piece is 60cm broad and has an opening 16.5cm wide. An additional strip of cotton cloth (7x2cm) is sewn to the waist to make a casing for the belt (Turk: uçkur), which passes through it to gather the pleats. In this case the original was replaced with a black ribbon. In the middle, where the belt was tied, there is a 15.5cm long opening in front and another opening of the same length at the back. The seams and the edges of the leg openings are decorated with black braids (gaitania turk. Gaytan or kaytan, cotton or silk cord, braid)and cords (Turk: şerit), 2cm wide, made of black silk thread. The outside of the leg pieces are decorated with twisted applied silk threads, forming a wickerwork pattern and solid curv­ing motifs ending in spirals. This schematized vegetal motif extends up the sides from the bottom almost to the top. At the top of the design is a bird. The leaves of the main motif are covered with embroidery in red, purple and green. The black designs are filled with a wickerwork pattern. The curved leaves recall the tulip flower (lale). The decoration seems to have been inspired by Ottoman designs. The breeches are lined with white cotton ma­terial. They are old and worn.

Hadjigeorgakis Kornessios, Dragoman of Cyprus (1779-1809) is wearing anteri (over a shirt which is not visible), a belt around the waist, tzouppe lined with fur (gunna), and kalpaki. The anteri is a long dress closed up to the neck, with a round neckline. It is made of luxurious red fabric, most probably brocade, covered with scale patterns in golden colour.  Tzouppe is a long red robe lined with white fur most probably ermine. The fur forms the inner side of the long overcoat and can be seen around the neck, along the opening in front and at the lower edge at the sleeves. The tzouppe is covered outside with a valuable cloth in red colour, symbol of power. The kalpaki is two-pointed and is consists of a red cap made of telâtin surrounded by sable fur. The red telâtin (Russian leather) is clearly visible on the top of the headdress. In his right hand he is wearing a ring set with a ruby and in his left hand he is holding a firman (or berat).The head seems to be fully shaved. He also has a long black moustache. The dragoman is sitting on a wooden sofa with cushions made of silk blue-grey striped cloth. 

Hadjigeorgakis Kornessios, Dragoman of Cyprus (1779-1809) is wearing anteri (over a shirt which is not visible), tzouppe an outer robe with full sleeves and a short upright collar and kalpaki. The anteri is a long open gown crossed at the front, closed up to the neck with a series of three small buttons. The neckline is round. It is made of white silk fabric with golden stripes. Along the front the stripes run in opposite directions, indicating the design of the anteri. The edges of the long sleeves of the anteri are visible under the tzouppe. It is made of greenish fabric lined with white cloth. His Kalpaki (head-gear) has the shape of a mitre (kettle-shaped).  This type of kalpak was made of fine black lambskin stretched upon pasteboard forms. On the top of the kalpak one can see the red stuffing, similar to that of the Boyars. On his right hand the Dragoman is holding a white kerchief and in the left hand a rolled firman (or berat). The head seems to be fully shaved. He also has a long black moustache.

The portrait depicts Tzelepi Yiangos Georgiades, the youngest son of the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis. It was painted by Constantinos Tak­katzis in 1852. He is presented wearing a red  Fesin (fez) and a thick black coat with a V-shaped opening, over a waistcoat closed with buttons up to the neck; a white cravat tied in a bow is shown un­der his chin. He has a moustache and short hair projecting under the fez (Turk. Fesin) at the temples. He wears a ring on each hand, and holds a rosary (string of beads) in the right and a rolled manuscript in the left hand. The name of the painter and the date 1852 are written with black ink on the manuscript. A ring similar to those depicted is still preserved as a family heirloom in the collection of his sister’s Mariora descendants. Tzelepi Yiangos is a typical case of the emerging new local elite, whose appearance reflected the western-style fashion promoted by the reforms in the Ottoman Empire.

Fermeli is men’s short sleeved waistcoat, richly decorated with gold braids; (from the Albanian fermele); it is recorded as fermeni, in Greek Cy­priot documents.

The Fermeli  is made of red felt. The back is of a single piece of material, and the front is made of two pieces fastened vertically by six buttons braided of naturally coloured silk thread. At the centre of the front there is a semi-circular false pocket formed of gold gaitania (turk. gaytan or kaytan, cotton or silk cord, twisted gold braid). The Fermeli has an upright collar and long sleeves, sewn vertically to the back and hanging free front. The sleeves and edges of the openings are richly trimmed with gaitania, forming a variety of spiral motifs. The opening at the front is further adorned with an attached gold-woven band in which flowers and zig-zag line are woven. The fastening loops are secured in position by an attached vertical gold band woven with gaitania and braids of twisted multi-coloured silk threads. The Fermeli is lined with white cotton material, and the collar and sleeves have a lining of striped cotton material adorned with printed garlands and bouquets of flowers.