Black and white

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

During his stay in Cyprus from March 4 to May 12, 1806, Ali Bey el Abbassi,  paid a visit to the Turkish Governor at Nicosia, who “was splendidly dressed, with a superb fur coat…” The six pages, who treated the guests, were “fifteen years old, all of the same height, beautiful as angels, and richly clothed in satin with superb cashmere shawls…”. He also noticed that Greek women in the street “were covered and hidden by a white sheet, just like Turkish women.” (Cobham 1908, 394, 396).

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

Under the fantastic designation Ali Bey el Abbassi, was veiled a Spaniard, long resident in Paris, Don Domingo Badia-y-Leyblich. He visited Cyprus from March 4 to May 12, 1806.

He commented on the character and the appearance of the natives of both nations and sexes: “The Greeks are quite as jealous as the Turks, and keep their womenkind in such out of the way places that it is impossible to see them. Those whom I met in the street were covered and hidden by a white sheet, just like Turkish women… Their costume is not ungraceful, but a kind of conical cap which they wear on the head displeases me immensely. The men have often good figures, and generally good complexions. Persons of any position always wear long coats, like the Turks, from whom they are distinguishable only by their blue turban: but many wear other colours, and even white, without offending the Turks…. The Greeks all wear moustaches, and shave their chins like the Turks; but oldish people and priests often grow beards. They are forbidden to carry arms, but they all have a knife or dagger concealed about them… Many natives place themselves under the protection of some European consul, who is allowed to grant this favour to a certain number. These protégés enjoy all the immunities of the subjects of the nation which protects them. They are distinguished by a tall black cap of bear’s skin, called calpàc. I have however seen Greeks who were not protégés wearing the calpàc unnoticed by the Turks.” (Cobham 1908, 396-397).

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

The Rev. Edward Daniel Clarke, LL.D., Fellow of Jesus College, and Professor of Mineralogy at Cambridge, visited Cyprus in H.M. frigate Ceres between June 6 and 16, 1801.

According to his notes, on the way to Nicosia they “were detained at Larneca until the evening, by the hospitality of the English Consul, Signor Peristiani, who had prepared a large party of ladies and other inhabitants… The interesting costume presented in the dress of the Cyprian ladies ought not to pass without notice. Their head apparel was precisely modelled after the kind of Calathus represented upon the Phoenician idols of the country, and upon Egyptian statues. This was worn by women of all ranks, from the wives of the Consuls to their slaves. Their hair, dyed of a fine brown colour, by means of a plant called Henna, hung behind, in numerous long straight braids; and in some ringlets disposed near the face were fastened blossoms of the Jasmine, strung together upon slips from leaves of the palm tree in a very curious and pleasing manner. Next to the Calmuck women, the Grecian are, of all others, best versed in cosmetic arts. They possess the valuable secret of giving a brown colour to the whitest locks, and also tinge their eye-brows with the same hue; an art that would be highly prized by the hoary courtezans of London and of Paris. The most splendid colours are displayed in their habits; and these are very becoming to the girls of the island. The upper robe is always of scarlet, crimson or green silk, embroidered with gold. Like other Greek women they wear long scarlet pantaloons, fastened round the ankle; and yellow boots, with slippers of the same colour. Around the neck and from the head, were suspended a profusion of gold coins, chains, and other trinkets. About their waists they have a large belt or zone, fastened in front by two large and heavy polished brass plates. They endeavour to make the waist appear as long as possible, and the legs, consequently, short. Naturally corpulent, they take no pains to diminish the size of their bodies by lacing, but seem rather vain of their bulk; exposing their bosoms, at the same time, in a manner highly unbecoming. Notwithstanding the extraordinary pains they use to disfigure their natural beauty by all sorts of ill-selected ornaments, the women of Cyprus are handsomer than those of any other Grecian island. They have a taller and more stately figure; and the features, particularly of the women of Nicotia, are regular and dignified, exhibiting that elevated cast of countenance so universally admired in the works of Grecian artists. At present, this kind of beauty seems peculiar to the women of Cyprus; the sort of expression exhibited by one set of features may be traced, with different gradations, in them all. …”.    

Clarke visited also the goldsmiths of Nicosia, and mentions that “their chief occupation consists in making coarse silver rings, of very base metal, for the women, and in setting signets for Turks of all denominations…”. Furthermore, Clarke refers to the gems found in Cyprus, and to the semi-precious stones, which were used by the goldsmiths as ring stones: “The signet stones of Cyprus, although cut in a variety of substances, were more frequently of red carnelian than of any other mineral. Some of the most diminutive size were finely executed in red garnet, the carbuncle of the antients. Others were formed of plasma, onyx, bloodstone, topaz, jasper, and even of quartz. Of all these the most antient had the scarabean form.” (Cobham 1908, 378, 384, 388, 381).

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

Michael de Vezin, of French origin but born in London, was during 16 years His Britannic Majesty’s Consul for Aleppo and Cyprus. He died at Larnaca in 1792, aged 51. In his notes, de Vezin bequeathed various accurate and most important testimonies about Cyprus:

In his records on the yearly produce of the island, the consul reckons cotton as the chief article of produce, the price of which depended chiefly on the orders from Europe. The best cotton was produced in “Lapitho” (Lapithos). Another product related to dress making, was silk. According to de Vezin, Cyprus produced about 9,000 okes of white silk, the finest of it in “Citherea” (Kythrea). In 1745, 40,000 okes of silk were collected. At Paphos and the neighbourhood fine yellow silk was produced to the extent of 4,000 okes, but it was worth from 3 to 4 p. less than the white. Most of it was sent to Cairo in Egypt. De Vezin refers also to manufactured, coarse silk stuffs, which were sought after chiefly in the Greek islands, also to ordinary linen, as well as to printed cottons and calicos.

On the other hand, bales of the cloth called Londrins seconds were imported from France; gold-embroidered stuffs were also imported, as well as lace from Lyon. Among various goods, which Venice sent to Cyprus, were cloth and headkerchiefs of all kinds (Cobham 1908, 368, 371-373).

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

Alexander Drummond, Esquire, His Majesty’s Consul at Aleppo, started from London May 11, 1744, and reached Larnaca March 6, 1745, leaving Cyprus again on May 15 for Alexandretta and Aleppo. He returned for a short tour in the island in April, 1750.

In his most important account on Cyprus, published in a series of letters, Drummond included some interesting comments about the appearance, especially of ladies: “As the ancient dames of this island were so remarkably distinguished”, he thought that he “should say something of the modern Cyprian ladies”. He observed that “even the Franc, or European, ladies dress in the Grecian mode, which is wantonly superb, though, in my opinion, not so agreeable as our own. Yet the ornaments of the head are graceful and noble; and when I have seen some pretty women of condition sitting upon a divan, this part of their dress hath struck my imagination with the ideas of Helen, Andromache, and other beauties of antiquity, inspiring me with a distant awe, while the rest of their attire invited me to a nearer approach.” (Cobham 1908, 276).

Furthermore, Drummond records in detail the fabrics, which were manufactured locally: “Of cotton dimities, with a little silk, they make about 10,000 pieces, of ten pics each, the pic being equal to 27 inches: of qutuni and basma, coarse kinds of cotton-satin, about 15,000 pieces: of bitani, or broad cotton cloth, about 1,000 pieces: of coarse silk handkerchiefs very bad, 20,000 pieces: of skimity, which is a kind of cotton-linen, about 40,000 pieces; and of a thin coarse, cotton shirting a great quantity..” (Cobham 1908, 282). As far as exports were concerned, Cyprus sent abroad mainly agricultural products and raw materials. Among other exports, Drummond mentions “40,000 okes of silk, 3,000 quintals of cotton, and 500 quintals of sheep’s wool” (Cobham 1908, 281). He also informs us that  “The import consists in broad-cloth, by far the greatest part of which is from France, and some from a new manufactory at Venice; a few bales come from Great Britain, but none, as yet from Holland;”. He adds that all sorts of silk manufactures were imported, but there was “no great quantity of any article consumed”, due to the poverty of the inhabitants (Cobham 1908, 282). 

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

The following descriptions of Cypriot dress range chronologically from the late 17th to the early 19th century:

Richard Pococke anchored at Limassol, on October 28, 1738, and left the island two months later, on December 25. In Nicosia, among other information, he refers to the manufacture and export of textiles as well as of the special red dye, known as rizarin: “There is a great manufacture of cotton stuffs, particularly of very fine dimities, and also half sattins of a very coarse sort: … They send their cottons to Holland, England, Venice and Leghorn… They export yearly near a hundred thousand pound weight of raw silk, to London and Marseilles; for as it is a hard weighty silk, it is much used in making gold and silver laces, and also for sewing. At Nicosia they make fine plain cotton dimities….. They have a root of an herb called in Arabic Fuah, in Greek Lizare, and in Latin Rubia Tinctorum, which they send to Scaderoon, and by Aleppo to Diarbeck and Persia, with which they dye red, but it serves only for cottons, for which it is also used here; it is called by the English Madder, but it is doubted whether it is the Madder so well known in Holland; they export a red dye for woolen stuffs, which is falsely called by the English Vermilion, though that is known to be made of Cinnabar; whereas this is the produce of the seed of Alkermes, called by botanists  Ilex coccifer;” Furthermore, Pococke refers to the local production and export  of dyed leather, the main material used for making shoes and other articles: “They prepare a great quantity of yellow, red, and black Turkey leather; which they send to Constantinople;” (Cobham 1908,  260, 268-269). Last but not least, Pococke comments on dress: “The common people here dress much in the same manner as they do in the other islands of the Levant; but those who value themselves on being somewhat above the vulgar, dress like the Turks, but wear a red cap turned up with fur, which is the proper Greek dress, and used by those of the islands in whatever parts of the Levant they live.” (Cobham 1908, 268).

John Heyman, Professor of the Oriental languages in the University of Leyden, who visited the East in the years 1700 to 1709, left some interesting notes of his voyage to the island of Cyprus:

“It is supposed to be owing to the warmth of the climate that the Cyprians do not exceed a middle stature, are rather lean than fat, and rather brisk than strong. They are of a brown complexion, like the rest of the Greeks; and both their eyes and hair black. They are also of a quick and piercing genius… The women here, especially at Lernica, are not the most beautiful I have seen; but allowance must be made for the climate, and manner of living. They dress in the same manner as those of Rhodes, except that in Cyprus they wear no veils. Their hair is covered before, but hangs down behind in curls. They also wear those large wide plaited gowns I have already mentioned at Scio” (Cobham 1908, 246).

“The chief trade of the island at present is in flowered silks and cottons little inferior to those of the Indies.” (Cobham 1908, 248).

Travelogues concerning Cyprus include valuable information about many aspects of life in the island, among other about the appearance of its inhabitants. Clothing is the first item one observes when coming into contact with the people in a foreign country, and is pivotal in creating a first impression of the local population. Travellers refer also to the raw materials and the textiles used for making clothes.

The following descriptions of Cypriot dress range chronologically from the late 17th to the early 19th century:

The Dutchman Cornelis van Bruyn arrived at Larnaca from Alexandretta on April 19, 1683, and wandered about Cyprus until his departure on May 26. He noticed that in Nicosia, where Greeks had their own quarters, silk stuffs and very good dimities were made. He commented that a great deal of cotton was produced and added a comprehensive, though short description of female dress: “The head-dress of the women is just a handkerchief tied round the head, brown or grey striped with black, gold or silver, and sometimes embroidered. They dress in all manners of silk stuffs. Their chemise has a kind of fringe round the neck and on the sleeves, but this is only the stuff itself worked into a kind of lace. The rest of their dress is like that of women in Turkey.” Van Bruyn also commented on the peasants’ appearance: “The peasants have generally very short hair and very long beards, a fashion which I thought remarkable, but not without its beauty. In the country they wear high hats with a broad brim, such as were worn in Holland forty years ago. They are not made in Cyprus, and it would be difficult to say whether they come from Holland or elsewhere.” (Cobham 1908, 239, 243).

In his manuscript dated 1785, the Italian traveller Mondaini (Namindiú) gives an interesting general remark on the similar appearance of Turks and Greeks in Cyprus: “The two dominant religions are the schismatic Greek and the Turkish; its citizenship is formed by the two nations; their dress has been so very mixed, by their habit and customs that the Greeks took a lot from the Turks and the Turks a lot from the Greeks.” (Severis 2007, 298-299).

Namindiú refers also to the use of henna (“Kinna”, “Elkenna”, “Scienna”) as a cosmetic by both “nations”: “The Orientals are very fond of the flowers and leaves of this tree called by ancient Greeks “Cupros”. They like it first for its perfume and second for its dye used by both men and women. These leaves, grounded into powder and then mixed with clear water, form a paste which when applied on beards, or hair, give it a beautiful natural red colour.” (Severis 2007, 299-300).

More revealing for the appearance of the people of the island, are four wash drawings, made by Namindiú.

A fascinating account of Cyprus, entitled Historic and Entertaining Letters on the Past and Present Conditions of the Island of Cyprus, and dated 1785, was written in Italian prose by Namindiú, a native of Tuscany. The word Namindiú is an anagram of the author’s real name, Mondaini, and derives from the Latin Nam in Diú, meaning “over a long period”. It is assumed that Mondaini lived in Cyprus before 1760s and long afterwards, retiring in 1777. He described in detail archaeological sites, the Cypriot countryside and its products, but he was also interested in the people of the island and their behavior; he had an eye for detail and commented on many aspects of everyday life. Being an admirer of the female sex, he praises their beauty in long verses, and offers some interesting references to their appearance (Severis 2007, 21-37).

On the occasion of a wedding n Limassol, in which Namindiú was invited, he described the traditional ceremony at the house of the bride, and focused on her, “a young woman, eighteen years old, well-shaped, tall and pleasant… white, fleshy and beautiful.”. The description of her dress and ornaments is worth mentioning: “She was opulently dressed and she had her head covered with scarves of very thin veil, embroidered in gold; on her left side she had artfully placed a couple of flowers which enhanced her beauty. A bigger scarf and more colourful than the rest was adjusted behind her head and fell over her shoulders. A gold necklace with pearls adorned her ivory neck; a transparent shirt of fine silk covered with discretion her beautiful bosom and hidden charms; the white and round arms were decorated with rich designs and the beautiful hands, joint together, were covered by a white veil embroidered in gold and turquoise. The dress was long and majestic, a gown of very fine scarlet cloth covered her sides down to her beautiful feet which, hidden in an elegant curve, allowed only the tips to be modestly shown.” (Severis 2007, 113-115).

More revealing for the appearance of the people of the island, are four wash drawings, made by Namindiú.