Female

Ind. no. 103: Part of a silver-gilt, filigree clasp. It has a curved outline and, in terms of its tulip-like shape, it resembles the central element of tripartite clasps. The openwork filigree surface, composed of very dense scrolls, is encrusted with domed rosettes, granules, and tiny lozenges, as well as a clear paste (glass stone), set at the top of a large rosette. The lower part of the object is framed by beaded wire, which also extends between the filigree scrolls at the upper part, thus surrounding the largest section of the filigree surface. A small piece of the object is missing.

From Istanbul. Dimensions: 11.2 x 9.3 cm.               

Ind. No. 100: Gilded, filigree clasp, composed of three elements: two large, almond-shaped panels, and a smaller, round piece in the center. The almond-shaped panels comprise two rows οf dense, openwork filigree scrolls around a central, almond-shaped element of sheet silver with applied filigree enamel and a red paste (glass stone) set in the centre. The filigree surface is adorned with rows of applied elements: pastes of various colours (red, green and clear), alternating with domed rosettes bearing filigree enamel. The latter are affixed onto the filigree surface with wire. A short strip of open filigree scrolls, decorated with alternating rosettes and pastes, extends along the top edge of the almond-shaped elements. A border of granules extends along its top edge, and a filigree spherical bead adorns its tip. The central, round element of the clasp is also adorned with filigree enamel, as well as with a red stone set at its centre. The fastening element is cast. This elaborate type of Cypriot clasp is described in 18th-early 19th-century ecclesiastical records as: “pair of almond-shaped filigree clasps with enamel and stones.” Variants of the same type are also found in Cyprus (see Papadimitriou 1996, 61, fig. 79, and Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou 1996, 228). A similar clasp is preserved in the Monastery of Chrysorrogiatissa, in Paphos, and in the Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou and Loizou-Hadjigavriel 2003, 54-55, with further bibliography; see also Ohnefalsch-Richter (1913) 1994, pl. 61: 9, 18th / 19th century).

It belonged to Loukis Pierides.

Dimensions: Total length: 27cm. Almond-shaped elements: length: 14.5 cm, width: 9.2 cm. Round element diameter: 3.3 cm.

Ind. No. 109: Filigree belt. It consists of 66 rectangular elements made entirely with filigree and connected with rings. The belt closes with an ornate clasp, resembling a bow with a rosette in the middle. The filigree work is complemented by applied, decorative minute spheres or hemispheres and tiny lozenges. Two filigree elements hang from the clasp. Some parts of the clasp, and alternating rectangular elements of the belt, are gilded. This creates a two-tone color, while the trifouri (open work filigree) gives the impression of lace.

Identical belts were worn in different areas of Greece, such as in Epirus, where they were made by artisans from Ioannina, and also in Thessaly, accompanying the festive and bridal costume of Karagouna (Kaplani 1997, 117, no. 5134, Hatzimichali 1983, 90-91, fig. 85-86 and 130, fig. 135, Papantoniou 1996, 44 and Folklore Museum of Larissa 1996, 38-39, no. 69-72). Identical, 19th-century specimens from the Balkans (e.g. in Vidin, Bulgaria: Blagoëva 1977, 64, fig. 22) attest to the widespread use of the type, which has been dated to the late period of modern Greek silversmithing (Zora 1981, 30, fig. 60). Similar specimens are exhibited in the House of the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis and in the Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou and Loizou-Hadjigavriel 2003, 67).

This belt was purchased in London and comes from Greece. 19th century.

Dimensions: Belt length: 94 cm and width: 3.8 cm. Clasp length: 9 cm and width: 4 cm.

Ind. no. 123: Silver-gilt, triangular pendant of openwork filigree construction. Spiral patterns develop around a rosette in the center, and applied minute granules adorn the filigree surface. A ring is attached at the top of the triangle, while eight chains of unequal length hang from its base. One of the longer chains ends in a Turkish coin, while four other chains, short and long in pairs alike, terminate in similar leaf-shaped, filigree elements. The item comes from Macedonia.

Height: 17.5 cm.

Ind. no. 106: Chest ornament suspended from a chain. The richly decorated ornament comprises filigree patterns applied on a sheet silver background, with additional applied elements and pastes set in the center of three domed, wire rosettes: one green paste adorns the center of the chest ornament, and two other, blue pastes the rounded, protruding edges. The three, extremely prominent rosettes, are nailed to the sheet metal base. Five Turkish coins hang from rings at the bottom edge of the ornament.

Similarly shaped and decorated jewellery is included in the costume of Karagouna (Kaplani 1997, 120-121, no. 3009, and Hatzimichali 1983, 127, fig. 132).

The item comes from Macedonia.

Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.3 cm (coins excluded). 

Ind. no. 108: Silver filigree poukla (buckle, clasp). It consists of three tulip-shaped elements, of which the central, vertically arranged one is the most prominent. All three are made entirely with openwork filigree, contained in curvilinear frames of beaded wire. The decoration is completed with four stones in closed settings. Two round plates and five chains are suspended from the side elements of the clasp. The chains hang from two rings, one at each side element, and extend across the bottom of the clasp. On the back, there are vertical bars for attaching the clasp to a belt, as well as a pin fastener. The fastener connects with one of the round plates, which bears an impressed mark of the Ottoman tuğra, namely the seal of the Ottoman sultan.

This clasp is among the most elaborate examples (a similar clasp of the 19th century is depicted in Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter (1913) 1994, pl. 76:1).

It belonged to the family of Georgios Sivitanides in Limassol.

Dimensions: Total length: 17.5 cm. Max. Height: 8.5 cm.   

Ind. no. 104: Silver poukla (buckle, clasp). It consists of two identical, circular elements with a narrow, scalloped rim of sheet silver that extends to a slightly protruding point at the outer extreme of each element, opposite the closure. The clasp closes with a cast hook attached to the rim of one piece and a corresponding loop attached to the rim of the other piece. Besides the rim and the closure, the clasp is entirely constructed of trifouri (openwork filigree), with applied decoration of small triangles and squares that form rosettes. At the back side of each piece, there are two vertical bars for attaching the clasp to a belt. The date 1867 is engraved on one of the bars. Similar clasps are preserved in Cyprus (see Pierides 1980, pl. LVI:b), yet identical clasps are also found elsewhere, for example in the Dodecanese (see Papamanoli 1986, image 16, from the island of Kos).

Dimensions: Diameter of the circular parts: 7.4 and 7 cm.

Ind. no. 102: Two equally sized clasp plates of cast bronze. Both plates are rectangular with a pointed end on the outer extreme and tubular protrusions for accommodating a pin fastener on the inner. Recesses of the decorated surface are filled with enamel. Similar stylised floral patterns adorn both plates. One has three holes, while on the reverse side of both there is a nailed sheet bar and three nails near the joint.

A comparable clasp with an additional central element comes from an old collection of the Cyprus Museum (Pierides 1980, pl. LVI:c), and another similar example is preserved in the Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia (Rizopoulou-Egoumenidou and Loizou-Hadjigavriel 2003, 77). Identical examples are also found in the Balkans (see for example an identical clasp of the 18th/19th century from western Bulgaria in Blagoëva 1997, 66, fig. 23).

Dimensions: 9 x 6 cm.

Ind. no. 107: Tripartite clasp consisting of two discs, each with a central boss, and an oval element in the middle. At each end, there is a cast two-headed eagle attached with a hinge joint. The clasp is set with stones and further decorated with applied elements: filigree motifs, small lozenges and granules. Partial gilding is discernable. This is a small chest clasp that formed part of the Karagouna costume, and was imported to Cyprus. Among other examples of the same type, there is an identical specimen in the Museum of Greek Folk Art in Athens (Kaplani 1997, 119, no. 4167) and another in the Ethnographical Historical Museum of Larissa (Ethnographical Historical Museum of Larissa 1996, 48, no. 87).

Dimensions: Total length 20.5 cm. Diameter of the discs: 5.3 cm. Height of the central part: 5 cm.          

Ind. no. 218: Kilaniotiko square, silk headscarf decorated with the "tie-dye" technique.

As in all known specimens, which are very rare, the primary motif is a cross that divides the surface into four squares, each containing different lozenge designs. The peculiar, dotted outline of the designs is due to the practice of tying knots before each dyeing with a different colour, so as to maintain the colour of the tied parts. The bright yellow/gold colour that stands out most strongly in these handkerchiefs came from the initial dye, when the headscarf was boiled together with pieces of local Rhus cotinus (for the  method of dyeing kilaniotika headscarves, see Egoumenidou 1997, 41-42, fig. 12). It ends in fringes.

It belonged to Loukis Pierides.

Dimensions: 77 x 77 cm.