Nicosia The Aziz Damdelen Collection

Girdle (uçkur/uşgur) of coarse, off-white calico (kapot bezi or kaput bezi), factory-made. One long side has a machine-finished selvedge, while the other three sides are cut. Two different patterns, one next to the other, are repeated on both narrow ends. A pencil line separating them lengthwise suggests that it was intended to make two similar girdles (uçkur/uşgur). The first pattern consists of a wide wavy line with two curves in yellow colour, with triple or single stems projecting on either side. The stems are embroidered with backstitch (iğne ardı). There is also a pair of three-petalled flowers, one big and one small, made in filling stitch (dolgu işi), in purple and mauve with blue, and with mauve outline. Each pair is found within each of the two curves. Below these patterns, near the edge, there is a wavy line in mauve colour with small motifs embroidered in filling stitch (dolgu işi), within each curve, up and down. The colours used are mauve, dark mauve, blue, yellow, purple/dark red and greenish yellow. The second, completely different pattern comprises a composition of floral patterns repeated two and a half times. Stems of green and some of yellow colour are made with backstitch (iğne ardı), and light lilac flowers in filling stitch (dolgu işi). The same pattern decorates the edge of the other end. Here the motifs are more faded. Width: 43cm, each girdle 21.5cm. Length: 2.16m.

Girdle (uçkur/uşgur) made of silk in its natural colour. It has a loom-woven selvedge (kenar) on one long side and a narrow hem made with the sewing machine on the other three sides. Both narrow ends are decorated with three bouquets of four embroidered flowers repeated in a series. Each bouquet consists of two different types of flowers; one type is a four- or five-petalled flower and the other small blossoms on either side of a stem made with a gold metal wire (tel). The flowers and the thin curved leaves are filled with fine stitch (dolgu işi) in light blue colour. The two golden stems are crossed in the middle and the small blossoms are repeated – two on either side of the stem – below the crossing. All three are similar. Below the patterns runs a horizontal wavy tendril with leaves, also in light blue. Curved lines and stems are made in backstitch (iğne ardı). Width: 19cm. Length: 2.00m. Very similar to Nos 101 and 102.

Embroidered piece of cloth made of off-white cotton fabric, with a loom-woven selvedge (kenar) on one long side and the other three edges. The two narrow ends are decorated with three groups of similar flower patterns. Each group comprises a three-stemmed branch with leaves and blossoms on top. The central stem rests on a thick embroidered line, forming the ground, which has three short vertical lines on one side of the stem, and four on the other side. Below it is a zigzag line; the short lines and the zigzag are embroidered with mauve thread, while the stem and the ground line in pale yellow. The flowers are mauve, lilac and light green. Green is also used in two leaves of one design. The other two patterns are exactly the same, also in colours, but differ from the first one in the colour combination: the central flower is again lilac, but the two on either side of it are blue and the leaves pink. The lines on the ground are repeated exactly the same, and below each of the patterns there are three embroidered dots, two of them yellow and the one in the middle mauve. Similar patterns and colour combinations adorn the other narrow end. The flower patterns are made with filling stitch (dolgu işi), the linear motifs with backstitch (iğne ardı).

Between the patterns two threads have been drawn for a length of 15cm, to mark the intended cutting of the cloth lengthwise, in order to make three similar girdles (uçkur/uşgur). Total width: 37cm; width of each division: 12.5cm, 12.5cm and 12cm, respectively. Length: 2.10m.

Girdle (uçkur/uşgur) to be used for men’s underwear drawers. It is made of silk in its natural colour and embroidered with silk (ipek) thread in filling stitch (dolgu işi). All four sides are finished with a hem made with a sewing machine. The main pattern consists of two similar flowers next to each other, with three petals each and linear motifs between the petals. The yellow stems are divided in two and terminate in double spirals at the lower end. From each stem project two pairs of leaves embroidered with backstitch (iğne ardı) and filling stitch (dolgu işi), the upper pair in off-white colour with dark green outlines, and the lower pair in dark mauve with spirals under them. Between the flowers are two pink star-shaped motifs with a hole in the centre, one above the other. The same patterns are embroidered on both ends of the girdle. Width: 11.5cm. Length: 1.66m.

Waist girdle (uçkur/uşgur) made of loosely woven cotton cloth. Both narrow ends are embroidered at the ends with flower patterns – three groups of blue flowers at each end – consisting of two crossed sprigs with different flower motifs. The stems are embroidered with gold metal wire (tel). Under the flowers runs a wavy tendril (filiz) in blue. There is a machine-made seam on all four sides. Width: 16.5cm. Length: 2.00m.

Girdle made of silk and decorated with embroidered floral patterns. All three patterns are similar with those of Nos 102 and 105, but are mauve instead of blue. They consist of three bouquets in oblique arrangement. There are two types of flowers, namely four-petalled flowers in groups of four, and small blossoms, four on either side of the stem and one on top. Both stems are made of gold wire, and cross each other. Under the crossing the blossoms are repeated two on either side. The leaves are long and curved. Below the patterns runs a horizontal wavy line with small projections, a stylized form of a tendril, the same as in Nos 102 and 105. The filling stitch (dolgu işi) is also the same. Width: 17cm. Length: 2.00m.

Waist girdle, a broad band which passed through the hem of drawers for holding them up (uçkur/uşgur); it is made of raw silk. Both narrow ends are decorated with similar embroidered patterns. They consist of two rows of six floral motifs (leafy stems), green, red and orange in the upper row (repeated twice). In the lower row, the motifs start, from left to right, with red, orange, green, and continue with red, green, red. The stems are embroidered with silver thread. Below the two rows of patterns, at the edge of the girdle, runs a wavy line, made of silver thread, with a flower motif in each curve, up and down; the flowers are embroidered with silk threads in the following order of colours: orange, red, red, red, green, red and green, orange, red, green. The same pattern is repeated on the other side with a different combination of the same colours; the arrangement is again in two rows, with similar small floral motifs in each curve of a wavy line. The embroidered patterns are stylized, simple and naïf. One long side of the girdle has a loom-woven selvedge, while the other long side and the short sides are turned over to form a hem. Width: 23.5cm, which is half of the width of the weft. Length: 2.43m.

It should be noted that all embroidered broad bands (uçkurlar/uşgurlar) were intended for the don or dizlik of men. The gold embroidery was for underwear (don). Women had plain girdles for their don.

Waistcoat (yelek) of ‘modern’ style. Probably it was part of a three-piece European suit. The whole garment is machine-sewn. The front part is made of dark-coloured striped cashmere fabric lined with beige cloth (astar). It consists of two identical pieces, one on either side, which turn outwards to form a collar (its broadest part 5cm) on both sides of a V-shaped opening. Lower down the opening is closed with six black buttons with corresponding machine-sewn buttonholes. On the chest there are two pockets on each side, one above the other. The upper and lower pockets are 11.5cm long. Inside, the edges are reinforced with additional pieces of cloth. On the shoulders the width on each side is 9.5cm, 25cm at the lower end and 27.5cm at the height of the armpits, where there is the broadest part. The total height of the front part is 58cm. It is reduced to 55cm at the back.

The back is made of two identical, symmetrical pieces (55cm long, 23-25cm wide) of brown cloth sewn along the middle, and also has a beige lining. At the lower part there is a two-piece ribbon of the same brown cloth, forming a belt with a small metallic buckle to adjust the waist (total length 46cm).

The waistcoat was used in the village of Mora, Mesaoria, Nicosia District.

Man’s chemise (gömlek) made of plain cotton off-white cloth with long sleeves. The whole front part is one piece 67cm wide, with a vertical opening, 39cm long, fastened with five white buttons – one of them bigger than the others and of a different design. The opening is reinforced with extra pieces, sewn lengthwise, and with a small rectangular piece (5x3cm) at its lower end. Around the neck the cloth is folded over 2cm and stitched to form a small collar. On the shoulders and at the back below the collar is an extra piece of cloth, 11.5cm broad. The back is made of one piece, 70cm wide, and its total length is 83cm. The sleeves, made of one piece each, folded and stitched lengthwise under the arms, are sewn vertically to the body and shoulder parts; they are 21cm wide on the upper part, tapering to 15cm with a simple seam at the lower end. Both sides of the chemise have an opening 7cm long. The chemise is machine-stitched and has been repaired with several patches.

Studio photograph taken by Photo Atlas around 1960. It shows an old man standing with a walking stick in his right hand. He has a moustache and beard. He wears a military-style jacket over a white woven shirt, buttoned at the centre front, dark, probably black, baggy knee-breeches, a striped light-coloured sash (kuşak) around his waist, and leather peasant boots made by a cobbler (GC tsagkaropodínes/TCy çangar çizmesi). Under the boots on the upper part, one can see part of the white underwear and dark stockings. The boots are tied with strings under the knees. On his head he wears a white kulak çapıdı (a scarf to protect head and ears).