colorful

ΜΓ677

Long, long-sleeved foustanin of cotton alatzia with red, green and camel/orange stripes against an off-white ground.

The dress includes a bodice and a wide skirt, joined at the waist with a waistband.

The bodice consists of two panels at the front (width: 25-25.5 cm, height 28.5-29 cm), which extend slighthly sideways underarms and are joined to the back panels. Under the breast, on either side, the fabric tapers with a vertical pleat, sewn with double machine stitching in black. The back is formed by three pieces of fabric. The largest one, at the centre, is six-sided (height: 31.5 cm, width on the shoulders: 38 cm, width at the lower end: 5.5 cm) and tapers downwards, where it is adorned with a band, 1.5 cm-tall, wherein runs a zig-zag line. The decoration is crafted with black machine stitching. The oblong side pieces at the back, which flank the central piece and are joined to the two front panels, are made of bias-cut fabric (height: 25 cm. width: 10-10.5 cm). The seams of the pieces are accentuated with double black machine stitching.

A vertical opening extends from the neckline to the waistband, at a height of 21.5 cm. It fastens with two hooks, sewn internally, at its base. On either side of the opening, the wide reinforcing hem is adorned with a band that includes two interlaced zig-zag lines of black machine stitching, forming parallel decorative lozenges in a row. A black trimming band finish is featured along the edges of the opening. The trimming band on the right side continues horizontally along the waistband, until its left end.

The waistband, 3 cm-tall, is made of a separate piece of the same fabric, with horizontal stripes, and extends to an 11.5 cm long overlap to the left side, where it fastens with two hooks. At centre front, the waistband is adorned with a zig-zag line of machine stitching (total length of decoration: 23 cm). A 12 cm-tall vertical opening is formed under the fastening of the waistband, on the side of the skirt, featuring a hem secured with basting.

The sleeves of the dress are formed with a single fabric piece with an external seam along the middle. The stripes of the dress converge obliquely towards the seam. The joint of the sleeves to the body forms a curved line. The bottom edges of the sleeves are reinforced with a hem, accentuated on the long side with double black machine stitching. A black trimming band covers the edge of each sleeve inside and out (total width: 1.5 cm). The entire bodice, including the sleeves, is lined with cotton cabot.

The skirt is made of five panels of similar width (42 cm, 45 cm, 2x46 cm and 47.5 cm). The upper part features pleats, sparser at centre front and much denser on the sides and at the back. The fabric of the skirt is folded over at the waist, where there is also an internal reinforcing band of cabot. In the lower part of the skirt, a 7 cm-tall band of cabot is secured with handmade black stitching along the bottom, which features a finish of black trimming band. In the upper part, the band is secured with machine stitching using black thread. At 7 cm over the hem, a purple ribbon, 1 cm wide, is secured with handmade black seam. Slightly up, at 7 cm from the purple ribbon, a black ribbon, 1.5 cm wide, is also hand-sewn.

The dress is preserved in very good condition. It stands out for its beautiful, harmonious combination of colours into the weave, its meticulous sewing and fine decoration.

Height: 125.5 cm (bodice: 33 cm up to the waist, skirt: 95.5 cm).

Width: 38 cm on the shoulders, 114 cm at the hem.

Length of sleeves: 48 cm.

Width of sleeves: 20 cm on the shoulders, 13 cm at the cuffs.

Date of entry to the Collection: 16.1.1990

Provenance: Palaiometocho, Nicosia – Purchased from Ero Farmaka.

ΜΓ 419

Loom-woven saya of striped aladjia.

Fine vertical warp stripes in black, white and yolk-yellow crisscross with thin and sparse horizontal weft stripes in yellow, maroon, green, light blue, blue, and red. In the lower part of the garment, alternating horizontal stripes in the same colours become dense. At the front of the saya, this colourful lower section equals approximately the height of the two side openings (48 cm), while on the back side it begins higher up, reaching a total height of 68 cm.

The front piece of fabric seamlessly continues to the back. Two long and narrow triangular panels, placed under each sleeve, are joined to each other in the upper part, along a height of 30 cm, and then separate across the side opening of the saya, reaching down to the hem (opening length: 47-48.5 cm). Each added piece is hemmed across its sides, internally.

The rectangular breast opening extends vertically down to the hem (opening height: 48 cm). The sleeves, vertically sewn to the body, are fashioned from a single fabric piece with an inseam. The aladjia stripes run horizontally on the sleeves, while the sparse colourful stripes appear vertically. Gussets of four triangular fabric pieces,  paired diagonally on each sleeve (joint length: 16 cm), allow for ease of movement. A 23 cm slit extends along the lower part of the sleeves, which is lined with a multicoloured printed fabric featuring colourful floral motifs against a black ground. The lining is secured with double diagonal machine stitchings in black. These intersect each other in an X-shape, and are visible on the outside of the garment.

The entire neckline is lined with a band of the sleeve lining fabric (width: 6 cm). The garment’s openings, sleeve edges, and bottom hem are trimmed with an appliqué decorative edging, of a ready-made black wavy band [τρέσα]. The same edging also decorates the horizontal opening of a small inside pocket (length: 6 cm), placed near the base of the rectangular breast opening, on the right side. This five-sided pocket features a pointed lower end. It is made of the same loom-woven fabric as the saya, added on the inner side of the garment. On the outer side of the saya, the pocket is delimited by machine stitchings using blue thread.

This garment replicates an old saya. It is unworn, and more recently made using a sewing machine. It forms part of a woman’s ensemble, typical of the Karpasia region, which also includes the following garments: chemise ΜΓ 420, pantaloons (long drawers) ΜΓ 421, scarf ΜΓ 422 and kouroukla (headdress) ΜΓ 423. These were made on the loom in 1984 by Martha Hadjiloizi, originating from Yialousa, and are replicas of old garments from Karpasia.

Height: 117 cm.

Width: 51 cm.

Sleeve width: 20 cm.

Sleeve length: 53.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 7.2.1985

Provenance: Yialousa – Purchase. 

ΜΓ 387

Women’s pantaloons of thick loom-woven cotton, adorned with cross-stitch embroidery at their lower ends.

Each leg’s front consists of a single fabric panel, reaching from top to bottom, and extending to the outer back side. At the back, an additional fabric section (width: 21.5 cm and 11 cm at the gathered bottom) is joined to the front leg piece with handmade vertical seams, one along the inner thigh and another externally. At the crotch, between the two legs, a square piece of fabric (side length: 41 cm) is placed diagonally, forming two triangular sections, one at the front and one at the back. The handmade seams of this piece feature a low hem, measuring 0.3-0.8 cm in width.

To secure the pantaloons, a gathering string runs through the 1 cm hem, around the lower end of each leg. The embroidered decoration reaches a height of 13.5 cm and develops in successive horizontal bands, defined by single black cross-stitch lines. Along the bottom part, a 2 cm-tall band contains a row of oblique, double cross-stitch lines in red on one leg and in alternating red and black on the other. A broader central band, 6.5 cm tall, features a black zig-zag line that creates two rows of consecutive opposite-facing triangles. All triangles are filled with small squares (side length: 0.5 cm) alternating between red and black in diagonal rows. Small triangles extend along the sides of the bigger ones. This pattern creates a solid embroidered zone where the white loom fabric subtly peeks through small interstices. Further up, a low band, measuring 2 cm in height, contains a row of lozenges alternating between red and black (side length: 2 cm). At the top, 2.5 cm-tall stylized floral motifs, resembling palm trees (foinitzies), consist of a triangle above a lozenge. These motifs rest on a black cross-stitch line. At the back of each leg, the embroidery is interrupted at the width of the added fabric section. This part is decorated with two sapling motifs, one red and the other black (height: 7-8 cm). The red motif on one leg resembles the black motif on the other.

The pantaloons gather around the waist, which features a 3 cm-tall hem casing with a bulky drawstring of thick braided cotton yarn, measuring 1 cm in width.

Height: 84 cm.

Waist width: 36 cm (gathered).

Leg width: (in the upper part) (in the lower part).

Date of entry to the Collection: 8.7.1983

Provenance: Theletra, Pafos – Purchased from Despoinou Nikola.

ΜΓ 37

A man’s double-breasted velvet vest, lined with beige cotton fabric.

The back consists of a piece of brown velvet fabric. Another two oblong trapezoid pieces of brown velvet are found on the sides, one each, beneath the armholes, whereas on the front, the two panels that form the sides of the breast are made of green velvet with weaved-in relief floral patterns in black, bright green and fuchsia. The floral patterns alternate in size and cover the entire surface in combination with leaves. At the centre of the flowers, green and fuchsia are used interchangeably. On the armholes and on the sides of the garment, the selvedge of the green velvet fabric is discernible with colourful vertical stripes. It appears that in this case the selvedge is used as decorative band.

The garment closes on either side. Four buttonholes on each side of the bias-cut opening are defined by gold-coloured braid with metallic threads in the upper part, and a base of golden-yellow yarn. The inner edges of the buttonholes are decorated with small tassels of the same yarn. The spherical hanging buttons, of black silk(?) thread  around an off-white fabric core are fixed to a bundle of black threads, sewn to the inside of the garment in five places.

A vase-shaped pocket on the right of the vest, on the side, consists of red felt in the upper part and brown velvet in the lower part, without inner lining. The pocket is trimmed with black braid and, on either side, with two twisted cords of yellow, red and black threads. In the upper corners of the pockets, the cords form small projections, and a small tassel at the pointed bottom end. A cord of the same type extends horizontally, at the centre of the pocket, defining the two different types of fabric.

On the front, the vest is decorated with gold-coloured braids, double or triple, of the same type as those on the buttonholes. A triple braid decorates the bias-cut opening in the upper part of the breast, where a fine cord extends lengthwise externally and, folded over, forms tiny loops. In the same section of the breast opening, purple fabric is used over a second beige fabric and, further below, a sewn-in padding of light green cardboard above the inner lining of the vest. On the purple fabric, an interlace pattern along the circumference and, further inside, consecutive spirals are formed by a cord fixed with numerous stitches. The cord is made of yarn, coated with metallic thread.  Through the couched embroidery patterns, the purple fabric may be discerned as base. This fabric and its couched decoration survive on the left side of the opening but only partially. Traces of the non-surviving spirals are discernible in the lower part of the purple fabric.

The armholes, the seams on the shoulders and the back of the neck opening, as well as the joints of the two side panels with the front panels are accentuated with black braid and a single or double cord, of the same type as that of the pocket. A braid externally and two rows of cords further inside also decorate the bottom edge of the side panels and of the back panel, and extend along a vertical opening, of a height of 23.5 cm, at the centre of the back. The opening closes with a bundle of four black threads, which criss-crosses through small loops formed by the black braid at the edge of the opening.

On the inner side of the garment, the lining consists of different panels of off-white cotton fabric. The bias-cut opening is lined with additional black woollen fabric. Around the neck, the vest is reinforced with a bright green ribbon, 2 cm wide, that advances into the upper part of the bias-cut opening.

Height: 41.5 cm.

Width: 28 cm on the shoulders, 40 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection: 12.11.1948

Provenance: Kelokedara, Pafos– Purchase.

ΜΓ 23

A beige cotton pantaloon edging, rectangular with the upper corners cut off.

The edging’s dense (pefkoto) embroidery comprises three distinct designs, all in blue and red. The central, largest section (length: 35.5 cm, height: 22.5 cm) showcases a design made of lozenges, with single smaller lozenges in their corners. All motifs have a blue outline and a red filling, with single tiny blue lozenges at their centre. The central section is flanked by another two, one on either side. Each edge section displays a different embroidery design. The one on the right (dimensions: 10x9.5x22.5x20 cm) features two rows of successive blue lozenges intersected by a blue line. Between these rows, another row of lozenges in red with a blue centre is intersected by a continuous red line. The outermost sides feature half lozenges in red with a blue filling. On the left section (dimensions: 12x16x12x21.5 cm), continuous lozenges with a blue outline and a red filling contain two tiny blue lozenges each. On the two longer sides, the embroidery ends in half lozenges.

A blue braid finish survives, sewn along 10 cm on the upper left side of the central section. The other three sides preserve plain fabric without embroidery. The widest plain fabric side likely served as the gathering part of the pantaloons.

At the back, the raw edges of the threads used for the handmade embroidery hang loose.

Height: 25 cm.

Length: 58 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Fyti, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 15

A pair of pantaloon edgings (povradjia), each made of a rectangular piece of beige cotton woven fabric, adorned with dense (pefkoto) loom embroidery in blue and red (decoration height: 21.5 cm). The embroidery comprises consecutive lozenges of blue thread with a red filling, which has faded in places. Along the upper side of the embroidered section, a fine horizontal band measuring 1.5 cm in height features a continuous zig-zag line (design known as the kamaroua) of red thread, within a blue border. On one of the two edgings, this design is discernible up to a point, beyond which the threads have faded. Resting on the band are 17 small vertical axes, crowned with alternating red and blue lozenges (height: 2.5 cm). One of the edgings has been cut across this side, so that only the axes survive. The same edging is hemmed on one of its long sides and one of its narrow sides, whereas the other is hemmed on one of its narrow sides. The embroidery colours, red and blue, are much more vibrant on the back side of the edgings that have not been exposed to the light.

Height: 25 cm and 25.5 cm.

Length: 49.5 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Droushia, Pafos – Donation.

Amalia costume from Cyprus.

Skirt of satakrouta, a pure silk fabric made from coarse unboiled silk. The name derives from the Italian term seta cruda. The colour of the fabric is somon (from the French saumon, salmon). The light-coloured field is interrupted at intervals by parallel horizontal stripes formed in the weft. The stripes are in three groups, each of which has six stripes – three fine and three broader stripes. The colours (from top to bottom) are light green, deep red, and purple. Below the bottom group, at the lower edge of the skirt, there is a broad band in dark/cypress green. The thin stripes have a 0.5 cm width, the wide stripes have a 1 cm width, and the green band at the bottom is 4 cm wide. The width of each group is 10 cm. The skirt is ankle-length and widens towards the hem. It gathers at the waist, where a thin belt of the same fabric has been sewn on. At the side, there is a vertical opening of 15 cm, with two cotton ribbons that tie at the waist. It is lined with off-white cotton fabric and it has a simple hem at the bottom. In places, the fabric is stained and shows signs of wear.

Women’s short long-sleeved jacket (sarka) of black felt, with sewn-on decoration. The sarka consists of a single piece of fabric, which covers the chest and the back, while additional pieces cover the body under the armpits. The sleeves are made of separate pieces of felt, which are sewn vertically onto the body. The vertical opening on the chest is deep and oval-shaped, and closes at the lower part with five hook-and-eye clasps. Around the opening of the chest, all around the bottom edge of the garment and the edges of the sleeves, there is a sewn-on decorative band of twisted cord and gold thread, formed into stylised floral patterns with a chain-like finish.

Gilt buckle (poukla) made of silver alloy.

Myrmidin, a women's metallic gold-plated breast ornament. It consists of thin chains, with three vertical ones connected by nine horizontal ones.

Silver-gilt pendant comprising a chain of spherical filigree beads (toutounia), and a filigree cross.

Headscarve made of kouroukla, dyed with a dark burgundy colour, called xidin. It is decorated with printed floral motifs in red and yellow, with black outlining. The designs – of the edges (kkenarin) and the four corners (the milia) – are similar to those of the other printed headscarves of the workshop of Evris Michael (or Euripides Mantilaris) and Kakoullis Brothers. Pipilla lace decorates the edges of the headscarves and is handsewn in silk thread. The lace pattern features tiny white flowers with green leaves, repeated in a row.

Double-breasted waistcoat made of velvet, which is brown at the back and figured on the front with floral patterns in black, green and lilac colour. The back is made of one piece (44x52cm), while the sides of the waistcoat under the openings of the arms consist of two pieces of velvet, similar to that of the back. The back has a vertical slit (26cm) in the middle, and this opening is cross-fastened with a lace passing through loops, thus adjusting the waistcoat to the body of the wearer. At the point of the crossing over the chest is the broadest part (25cm); then the front piece becomes narrower downwards. There are five spherical, plaited, black buttons on either side, which are obliquely sewn on the cloth and correspond to buttonholes, thus allowing the crossing over the chest on either side.  The buttonholes are surrounded with gold braid, which decorates also the seams, the openings around the arms and the neck, also the hemline of the waistcoat. On the upper part of the chest, below the opening, golden braids formed spiral decorative patterns, which are poorly preserved. On the right side of the front there is an outer vase-shaped pocket made of red broadcloth and light brown velvet. The pocket covers the join of the front and side pieces, and its outline is accentuated with twisted threads, which also decorate the seams of the waistcoat. The lining is made of white cotton cloth, while the neckline and the opening of the chest are reinforced with a green ribbon sewn on the inside. This is an old (late 19th/early 20th century) example of a festive waistcoat, very similar to that worn by a villager in the fair of Agios Irakleidios, in a photograph of 1895 (Max and Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter, 1895). Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv.no. 37).

Amalia type costume

Amalia type costume. This example is composed of three pieces: a) a long-sleeved foustani  (dress which used to be worn over a chemise) with a deep opening at the bust and a long skirt with rich folds gathered at the waistline. It is made of an imported fabric with thin stripes in gold and black (or dark blue) colour. A gold decorative strap is sewn on around the waist, on the edge of the sleeves and on the hemline of the dress. b) the foustani is combined with the sarka, a waist-long jacket made of dark blue felt. It has long, straight sleeves and a short collar around the neck. The collar, the front opening, the hemline and the cuffs of the sarka have sewn-on gold decoration, which is completed with two impressive stylized floral (lahouri) patterns, one on either side of the front. Gold-embroidered felt or velvet jackets were made by tailors in Nicosia. c) a fessin (fez) a red cap with a long tassel fixed on its top; the tassel is made of black silk threads. This ensemple, dated to the first decades of the 20th century, is an example of the urban Amalia costume, as it survived in the Cypriot rural centres. Geroskipou Folk Art Museum (inv. nos 69, 71, 72).

Foustani, a garment made of colourful striped imported fabric. The sleeveless bodice has a low-cut opening which becomes narrower as it extends towards the waist. The skirt is long with many folds at the waistline. The opening of the bodice has a black trimming all around its edges. The lining of the bodice is made of beige cotton fabric, which is visible through the opening at the chest.

Geroskipou  Folk Art Museum (inv.no 40).