black

[ΜΓ 55]

Pair of man’s knee-high leather boots.

The lower part consists of two pieces. The front piece (promouttin) has a rounded toe box and extends to a tongue at the instep. It is joined at the sides to the back piece, covering the heel of the foot. A third piece forms the shaft, reaching below the knee. The different pieces have been joined with rows of machine stitches. Βrown leather lining, discerned on the inside, is also sewn with machine stitches. At the back of the shaft there is a backstay, namely an additional sewn-on vertical strip, joined to the protruding tongue of the back piece that covers the heel of the foot. On the inside of the backstay, the joint of the single piece that forms the shaft is discernible, made with a handmade seam of parallel thick-thread stitches. This joint is framed by double machine stitching, intended to secure the added backstay. At the upper part of the boots, around the edge, there is a small hem, sewn with machine stitches. Below the middle of the shaft there are two parallel horizonal decorative bands, also of machine stitches. Near the upper part of the boots two opposite-facing pull straps are made of wide black textile bands, with single brown stripes along their edges.

The sole, normally made of ox hide, is thick, comprising two layers of leather and slightly protruding all around. Machine stitches are visible along the welt. The low heel, 1.9 cm tall, is built with three superposed layers of leather and rests on a separate cap, secured with a double row of small nails (spondilia).

This is a pair of well-made Frankish boots (Frankopodines) crafted by a cordwainer (skarparis). Cordwainer boots were normally worn in the urban centres and the countryside on official and festive occasions.

Boot height: 41 cm.

Sole length: 29 cm.

Date of entry to the Collection: 14.9.1949

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 21

A man’s double-breasted vest, made of black felt and velvet.

The front consists of two panels of felt and an oblong, trapezoid panel of velvet on each side. The back is formed by a single piece of velvet. The joints of the front panels to the sides are covered by brown/black braid, framed by two cords of twisted threads in various colours (yellow, red and brown/black). Similar finish is discernible on the armholes and also on the bottom edge of the back and side panels. Rows of braids adorn the contour of the neckline and the front felt panels. Low consecutive freestanding arches of fine black cord extend along the bias-cut opening with tiny loops in-between. Much denser, consecutive loops are formed in the lower section of the bias-cut opening, and continue for a short length along the bottom horizontal edge.

The vest has a deep oval opening at the breast. Each front felt panel has at the diagonal end an oblique row of seven buttonholes and, on a second oblique row, on the inside, seven black spherical buttons of beige fabric core, lined with fine and twisted black silk cords. All buttonholes are defined by a braid on the inside and two cords on the outside. Small tassels are created on the free ends of the cords. The buttons are fixed to a thick, beige braided cord, sewn at intervals with black thread on the inside of the vest.

In the upper section of the breast panels (at the opening of the neck) the vest is adorned with dense, curvilinear couched embroidery of black cords (double twisted thread) in elaborate designs that give the impression of knit construction. The mat pattern is edged with rows of cords that follow the shape of the contour. On the upper side, between the rows of cords, a strip of running spirals is interjected.

Lower, on the right side of the breast, a decorative pattern is formed with twisted cords in green, orange, burgundy and blue. It consists of a rectangular pattern at the centre, framed above and below by small vertical and horizontal spirals. Further down, a vase-shaped pocket may be discerned (height: 10 cm, width: 8.5 cm), the upper part of which is made of green felt and the lower part of black velvet. The pocket is trimmed with brown/black braid, framed on each side by a twisted cord of orange, brown/black and yellow threads. In the upper part of the pocket, the cords extend to hook-shaped projections. A braid and cords of the same type form a horizontal division that separates the upper part of the pocket from the lower part. Above and below the division, a thicker twisted cord forms a zig-zag line with small loops on the tops. The pointed end in the lower part of the pocket is joined with the side seam to which the pocket is sewn.

On the back, at a height of 21 cm, a vertical opening is formed. It is fastened with thick cord, which criss-crosses through metallic eyelets and is fastened in the lower part. The cord terminates at spherical elements, identical to the buttons. The vertical opening and its readjustment with the use of the cord allows better fitting of the garment to the body. The bottom edge of the back and the entire opening are trimmed with fine cords, orange and green, that interlace to shape consecutive lozenges with spiral patterns on their tops. The ornament rests on two rows of double cord, one multi-coloured (green [?], orange and yellow), and the other light blue. At the top of the vertical opening there rests a schematized decorative pattern in orange, blue and green. The pattern includes a central lozenge that extends upwards into an interlace and downwards to two pairs of curvilinear, leaf-shaped patterns. The border of the composite ornament is formed by a double cord, orange and green. The lozenge is covered with mat filling, whereas the rest of the patterns have a simple satin stitch.

Inside, the vest is lined with white cotton fabric. Along the opening at the neck and breast there extends a reinforcing band of ready-made fabric with coloured stripes lengthwise, yellow, black and pink. Lower, on the bias-cut sides of the front panels, where the buttonholes are found, there is a vertical strap of the same black felt.

The vest is quite heavily used. A small piece of felt is missing from its front, exposing the cotton lining.

Height 42 cm.

Width: 40.5 cm under the armpits, 33 cm at the waist.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Kathikas, Pafos – Donation.

ΜΓ 70

Sarka of black felt, adorned with goldwork.

Its front consists of two trapezoid panels, one on each side of the breast (height: 38.5 cm, width: 13 cm in the upper part, 23.5 cm in the lower part), with rounded outer corners at their lower end. An elongated triangular opening is formed centrally from the neckline to the waist. The back of the sarka consists of a single rectangular fabric section (height: 42.5 cm, width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 31 cm at the waist). Hand-sewn black thread seams join the front and back panels on the shoulders and the sides.

The upright collar is made of a separate fabric piece, measuring 4.5 cm in height. It is internally reinforced with different types of fabric in three consecutive layers: beige cotton (beneath), black wool (in-between) and worn fuchsia silk (above). Other than the collar, the sarka is unlined.

The sleeves consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two triangular gussets are added to each armpit, forming a rectangle (length: 15 cm, width: 13.5 cm).  The seam joining the paired gussets is covered by a braid of yellow thread, overlaid with gold-coloured metal thread on the upper side. This braid extends downward across the joint between the back and front pieces, and upward along the sleeve inseam.

A similar double braid trim adorns the hem of the sarka, the collar border, the lower end of the sleeves and the front opening. Along the inner side of the braid, a ready-made appliqué decorative band of braided gold threads (textile threads with a gold-coloured metal or other coating) showcases a double row mesh and projecting loops. This band, which is sewn onto the fabric using yellow thread, adorns the collar border internally, and also extends along its lower side externally.

Both lower front corners of the sarka feature a paisley-shaped decorative motif of intricate curved designs, hand-crafted using couched cords of currently worn gold threads. The latter are secured intermittently with yellow stitches that are visible on the inner side of the sarka. Sparse basting with yellow thread outlines the paisley-shaped motif on the right side of the garment. This likely served as a guide for filling in the motif.

Height: 42.5 cm.

Width: 40 cm on the shoulders, 31 cm at the waist.

Sleeve length: 48.5 cm.

Sleeve width: 15.5 cm in the upper part, 13.5 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 20.4.1953

Provenance: Ktima, Pafos.

ΜΓ 18

Sarka of black felt, adorned with goldwork.

The front comprises two fabric panels, one on each side of the breast (width: 13 cm in the upper part and 19 cm at the waist). These are joined to the single back panel (height: 39.5 cm, width: 37.5 cm in the upper part and 32 cm at the waist) via shoulder and side seams. The collar is made of a separate piece of fabric, 3.5 cm tall. The sarka fastens with a hook-and eye closure at the bottom, creating an elongated V-shaped opening.

The sleeves, joined vertically to the body, consist of a single fabric piece with an inseam. Two triangular gussets, joined lengthwise, have been added at each armpit (joint length: 19 cm).

The faded blue cotton lining is overlaid with added sections of red fabric, creating a triangle across both sides of the front opening (width: 10 cm at the waist). A band of the same fabric also lines the collar. All seams are handmade. 

A double braid of yellow silk thread with an upper side coating of gold-coloured metal thread borders the collar, extends to the breast opening and the hem, and also trims the sleeve edges. The side seams, continuing along the sleeves, are adorned with a single braid. At the base of the collar, a single braid delimits the neckline.

The garment’s edges are further trimmed with a broad, ready-made appliqué band of goldwork. This band features a mesh pattern at its base and continuous arches in the upper part, each crowned with three small loops. Yellow thread secures the band at intervals. A finer, ready-made band of lace-like goldwork edges the breast opening and the hem of the garment, and also adorns the collar base.

A schematised paisley-shaped floral motif is featured in the two lower outer corners of the front panels. This motif extends upward to form a fine branch with a two-pronged spiral edge. The cord used for the decoration is stitched at dense intervals with gold-brown thread.

Height: 36.5 cm.

Width: 36.5 cm at the waist, 37 cm on the shoulders.

Sleeve length: 42-43 cm (the left sleeve is bigger). 

Sleeve width: 14.5 in the upper part and 14 cm in the lower part.

Date of entry to the Collection: 26.10.1948

Provenance: Goudi, Pafos – Donation.

Men’s Costume. The parts of the costume are as follows: a white shirt, a black men’s vest (yelekkin), baggy trousers (vraka), a silver cross and a black headscarf.

Men’s double-breasted vest (yelekkin). The front and the back are made of black velvet. The front consists of two pieces of fabric that cross over the chest on both sides. The vest is decorated with an outline of coloured cords, red and yellow. The back is made of a single piece of black velvet, which extends below the armpits and is joined with coloured seams to the front pieces. In the centre of the back, there is a vertical opening that would have been closed with some kind of ribbon passing through the remaining eyelets for a better fit on the body. The opening is bordered with sewn-on cord in red and yellow, forming a decorative floral pattern.

The Silver cross is decorated with floral patterns in repoussé technique.

Male Costume. The parts of the costume are as follows: a white shirt, a black vest (yelekkin), a black  waistcoat (zipounin), baggy trousers (vraka), a silver cross and a black headscarf.

The double-breasted vest (yelekkin) is made of black felt. The front part consists of two pieces that cross over the chest on both sides, with rows of black buttons arranged diagonally. t features rich sewn-on decoration made of black cord, forming spiral patterns in different combinations.

The sleeved waistcoat (zimbouni) is made of black felt and has a low standing collar. The front consists of four pieces, while the back is made of a single piece. The sleeves are sewn vertically to the body.

The Silver cross is decorated with floral patterns in repoussé technique.

Men's double-breasted vest. The front part consists of two pieces of grey silk fabric, while the back is made of a single piece of black velvet. On the right front side, there is a vase-shaped pocket outlined with orange, yellow, green and red threads. The vest is fastened across the chest with six buttons. It is adorned all around with black braid, which also surrounds the buttonholes, while a wide sewn-on decorative trim accentuates the neck opening.

Men’s double-breasted vest (yelekkin) made of black velvet. The front part consists of two pieces that cross over the chest on both sides, with rows of black buttons arranged diagonally. There are eight buttons on one side, while only six are preserved on the other side. It features rich sewn-on decoration made of grey cord, forming spiral and lattice patterns in different combinations, including: a dense composition of spirals creating a wide band around the neck opening, various spiral patterns at the openings that correspond to the buttons, lattice pattern at the base of the buttons, and a simpler design in the form of a series of lozenges around the bottom edge of the vest. Internally, the opening of the neck/chest is reinforced with braid. On the right side of the chest, there is colorful triangular embroidered pattern.

The sarka (waistcoat) with a deep opening at the bust and long sleeves, is made of black velvet and shows rich decoration of applied (sewn-on) gold cords.  

Sarka, women’s short long-sleeved jacket made of black felt, with sewn-on decoration. The chest has a deep oval opening, which becomes straight at its lower part. Around the opening of the chest, all around the bottom edge and at the edges of the sleeves, there is a sewn-on decorative band of twisted cord and golden thread, which form continuous spirals of stylised floral motifs with a chain-like finish.